TNs on a few recent wines (09 Giscours, Geantet-Pansiot; 05 Heitz Marthas; 98 Jadot Beze)

A few recent holiday wines – did not take detailed notes so this is just the broad overview

2009 Giscours – smooth, creamy, full-bodied, well-balanced, very much open for business. The high level of Merlot in the blend is very in evidence in how velvety and easy drinking this wine is. Not sure I’ve ever had a major Bordeaux 6 years from vintage date that evidenced so few tannins. This is a rich wine but not out of balance. Layered, elegant nose and luxurious cassis on drinking, without any alcoholic bite. However, the lack of tannic backbone raises some questions about long-term aging. I have had a number of 2009 Bdx that have shut down, but this wine may never shut down.

2009 Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle Musigny 1er Les Feusselottes – chalk one up for the ‘2009 Burgundies are out of balance’ school. This wine is notably dark in color and notably dark-fruited (black cherry with plum overtones) on the palate. Very rich fruit right out of the bottle, but with time in air the alcohol came out more and more and a touch of that cherry cough syrup feeling emerged on the finish. I find that very off-putting. You could feel the alcohol on your body too – wouldn’t be surprised if this is 14.5%. This is a very rich wine so may age but just feels unbalanced and not that pleasant right now, especially after it has decanted for a bit.

2005 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard – Rich and sweet; people often describe Heitz Martha’s as showing eucalyptus but with this richness I read that green note as more like balsam fir verging on mint chocolate at times. With time in glass a rich brown/sugar molasses element came out as a strong undertone. Definitely a little more toward the Napa cocktail wine than the food match/savory side of things, particularly given the rep as a more classic and restrained Napa. But overall still a pretty well balanced wine within its style; didn’t have alcohol poking out or any syrupy/cloying quality at all, and kept enough varietal Cab characteristics to have some crunch to it. You’ll like this if you’re into Napa but don’t look to it for a classic left bank Bordeaux/European/mineral style.

1998 Jadot Chambertin Clos De Beze – been a while since I drank this and didn’t take detailed notes, so no real details, but a positive report/thumbs up. This is in that good part of its aging curve where it combines a vein of lively and juicy red fruit with a good range of spicy/herbal qualities. Good complexity, transformed in interesting ways as we sat with it. Won’t change your life but was a satisfying and rewarding grand cru Burgundy experience.

Thanks, Marcus.

I wondered about that 09 Giscours. I bought four, tried one and found it quite lively and open, and also wondered about longevity. Then I stuck them away without really thinking about it.

Thanks Robert. Doubt a classed growth Bordeaux is ever going to really fall apart on aging, but perhaps these are for drinking young. Still, I tend to feel that wines which age badly feel unbalanced young, and this one did not. Without question it is modern styled and doesn’t feature lot of acidity, but it didn’t have that heavy/alcoholic/cloying/plummy feel you get with wins that are truly over ripe and have their fruit/acidity balance really out of whack.

I had the 2009 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Champs and Poissenot on release and it was classic Burgundy, extremely balance.

I freaking love '09 Giscours…I have two left…Thanx for the note

09 Giscours. A BWE wine of the year.

I’ve not had it, but I’ve really come around on 09 Bordeaux in general. I was indifferent at first to all the hype and wondered if it would be my style, but the old-school chateau I prefer really killed it in 2009.

Giscours has always been a favorite, as my epiphany wine was the 1979. The 1966 and 1970 prove how well the wine can age, and recent vintages have been getting better, after a serious downturn after 1982 and really not producing anything worthwhile until 1995. A change of ownership (actually last time I heard the purchase was still being disputed in the law courts) changed things, and I have been lucky enough to go through a few verticals.

My favorite was the 2010 just edging the 2009 and 2005, and I think it ma be the best wine they have ever made. But in the scheme of things, they are relatively cheap.

Thanks for the updates. I have heard a lot of good things about the 9 Giscour. I am a big fan of the 09 red Burgundy, they mostly shed the fat fruits. I don’t think it will be easy to tell them apart if tasted blind. For my palate, the fruit expression is fresher, ie will develop more like the 99 than the 90. Jadot’s top reds are definitely a sweet spot, though not as polished/ethereal as Rousseau, Roumier and etc.

Based on classified growths from the lesser vintages of the 60s and 70s, I dont think you have to worry about falling apart.