TNs: OC Blind Wine Dinner

WINE TALK
1

On Saturday, our friend Steve Nordhoff hosted some OC winos for dinner and a blind tasting of wines from his cellar. The dinner was well executed and the food was solid, but the wines were clearly the stars of the show. During each flight, we were asked to guess the wines, and although I was usually able to determine the variety (with some notable exceptions), some in our group were even able to guess the producer, which was pretty impressive to say the least.

My favorite wines of the night were the 2007 Lewis Reserve Chardonnay, a wine that will change the way anyone thinks about Lewis and could possibly give Aubert a run for the money. The second WOTN was the 2003 Blankiet Merlot, which was just so irresistibly sexy that I nearly forgot about the other wines in the flight.

Overall, it was a fun evening with good friends. I’m not sure if he is on this board, but thanks to Steve for his incredible generosity!

STEVE’S BLIND TASTING - Antonello Ristorante - Costa Mesa, CA (3/14/2009)

Flight 1

  • 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
    The initial rush of oak is a turn-off, but beyond that lies fragrant notes of orange blossoms, nectarines, and crushed sea shells. Nice acidity and a mineral-laced alcohol-tinged finish. (88 pts.)
  • 2005 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Notes of buttered popcorn, hazelnuts, unripe pineapples, and starfruit. A bit muddled on the palate. Finishes with an oily minerality. (85 pts.)
  • 2007 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Sprightly and airy notes of orange blossoms, tangerines, nectarines, mango, and sea spray. Refreshing on the palate, with amazing purity and elegance. Very impressive and tied for my WOTN. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Unlike the others, this was not tasted blind and had been opened the day before. Spice-laden notes of nectarines, golden apples, and pie crust. Very nice minerality and acidity. 91-92 points. (92 pts.)

Flight 2

  • 1999 Carlisle Mondeuse Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    I thought this might have been Sangiovese when I tasted it. Old world in character this wine exhibits earthy notes of dried cherries, anise, leather, and roses. Grippy on the palate with vibrant acidity. As a recently-converted Italophile, LB loved this wine. I enjoyed it too, but thought the tannins would outlive the fruit. (91 pts.)
  • 2004 Carlisle Three Birds - USA, California, Sonoma County
    The nose on this wine reminds me of a bakery with notes of fresh pastry, toast, blueberries, plums, and dark chocolate. Rich and ripe on the palate but balanced by a mouthwatering acidity. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)
  • 2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Francesca’s Cuvée - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
    Notes of cranberries, black cherries, incense, and dried herbs. Very high in acidity. (88 pts.)

Flight 3

  • 2004 Pax Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Notes of green and black olives, creosote, grilled plums, and smoked meats. (88 pts.)
  • 2005 Pax Syrah Cuvée Keltie - USA, California, North Coast
    Notes of tar, anise, charcuterie, black pepper, iron and lava rock. This is an art film wine to me: I can appreciate it, but I do not love it. 86-87 points. (86 pts.)
  • 2005 Pax Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    This wine is a monster. Intense and concentrated with notes of lava rock, creosote, black pepper, green and black olives, and black plums. 88-89 points. (88 pts.)

Flight 4

  • 2003 Blankiet Estate Merlot Paradise Hills Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
    This is a Suzie Wong wine: a hooker with a heart of gold. Opulent notes of black raspberries, cherries, mocha, and espresso. The palate is seductive and creamy, but the fruit is pure. Loved this wine and tied for my WOTN. 93-94 points. (93 pts.)
  • 1997 Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Savory notes of cassis, umami, dried herbs, and crushed minerals. Mouthwatering on the palate with a balance of fruit and tannin. This wine still has years of live ahead of it. (90 pts.)
  • 2000 Arietta Red Wine (H Block Hudson Vineyards) - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Notes of cassis, black cherries, incense, black tea and tree bark. A tad short on the finish. (88 pts.)
2

Thanks for getting this rolling Paul. I will work on my notes tomorrow or Friday. Looks like we may have disagreed on one or three.
[diablo.gif]

3

Only three? Your palate must be improving. [whistle2.gif]

4

Paul - thanks for the notes. A question or two: the aromatic/flavor descriptions on the Pax wines sounds really good/complex. What kept those particular wines from crossing over the 90 pt mark for you?

Glad to see you liked the 03 Blankiet. I have only had a few 01 and 02 Blankiet and I did not like them at all.

5

Paul, looks like you enjoyed the 2007 Lewis Chard way more than I did. Completely undrinkable for me.

6

I think there were a few people at the dinner who really enjoyed the Pax wines. I did too, to some degree, but thought the wines could have shown a bit more fruit character at this particular stage. Moreover, I thought the wines were a little aggressive on the palate – no doubt as a result of their youth – which kind of overwhelmed the food we were eating (Linguine Alfredo with Black Pepper). Since I’m not very good at predicting how a particular wine will develop in the bottle, I can only really evaluate a wine at that particular moment. And at that moment, it seemed to me that the fruit had taken a backseat to the earthier elements of the wine. Perhaps in a few years, the whole-cluster notes will integrate more fully with the fruit to produce (at least to me) a more three-dimensional wine; we’ll see.

As a side note, at Family Winemakers on Tuesday, I tried the 2006 Big Basin Rattlesnake Rock Syrah, which was like Pax without the dominating whole-cluster. I gave that wine 93 points.

As for the Blankiet, there were some people (i.e. Cris) who did not enjoy it at all. No doubt, there was a certain sluttiness to the wine, but I have no problem with that. To my palate, it was delicious. [give_heart.gif]

7

Was it the Reserve you tried? Even Cris “Oakophobe” Whetstone seemed to enjoy it.

8

Yup. I have the bottle in the fridge to use for cooking if I can figure out something to do with it.

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THE GENEROSITY OF STEVE NORDHOFF BLIND - Antonello Ristorante (3/14/2009)

Steve Nordhoff stepped up big time in the generosity department hosting a blind wine dinner entirely of wines from his cellar. Antonello’s set us up with another great meal and did a great job handling the wines. And best of all the company was as fun and jovial as ever. What a great evening.

All wines served blind in flights of three. Some surprises through out the evening. The two biggest for me were two of my favorites being the 07 Lewis Chardonnay and the 99 Carlisle Mondeuse. I also like the 97 and 00 Cabs as well as the 00 Arcadian.

This flight had a shocker for me. I’ve found the Lewis Chards to be typical fat butter oaky styled wines in the past. One was that was for me but the 07 was a clear departure from that for me. I thought it was an Aubert and found it very nicely styled and restrained. Terrific effort that had me asking Steve if the wine maker had changed there recently.

  • 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Rich oaky nose of popcorn. This seemed balanced at first but also seemed to lack some acidity. Oak was in check on the palate. Well done for a Cali styled Chard but not for my palate.
  • 2005 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Nose is tight showing some sulfur notes. Rich and a bit heavy with lots of butterscotch and some heat.
  • 2007 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Wow, what a huge departure for Lewis. Winemaker change? Nose of lemons and minerals. This was still rich and big but not too much or overdone. Clean without overt signs of oak or extra malo ferment. I thought it was an Aubert. If this is the future of Lewis then they are worth putting back on people’s radar.

The Mondeuse turned most of our heads. Like a nicely balanced and aged Cote du Rhone this displayed nice balance and acidity while still giving some nice fruit. I thought the Arcadian was Frayer’s Pinot.

  • 1999 Carlisle Mondeuse Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Very herbal nose showing some aged and rustic qualities. Lean feeling palate that shows great balance with some great acidity. Terrific effort that reminds me in style of a 10 year South Rhone wine while exhibiting some nice Cali fruit.
  • 2004 Carlisle Three Birds - USA, California, Sonoma County
    Very soft nose. The attack is very brightly fruited, young and sweet but the palate feels thick and very tannic towards the end with some oak showing through. Clearly in need of more sleep.
  • 2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Francesca’s Cuvée - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
    Some Pinot funk among stewy ripe fruit. Good acids with some nice balance. I thought this was a Leigh Cellars.

Well I guessed one of them as being a Pax. Can’t believe I had the Castelli three days earlier and didn’t recognize it. But in looking over my notes they performed night and day to each other over those three days for me. Not usually a Pax fan and this light didn’t really change that. These do need time in fairness.

  • 2004 Pax Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Huge berry nose with some notes of teriyaki and bacon and some heat. Palate is a bit flat with tarry boysenberry and plenty of tannin still.
  • 2005 Pax Syrah Cuvée Keltie - USA, California, North Coast
    Fat sweet ripe fruit on the nose with notes of pepper and stems. Very astringent tight palate with flavors of wood and pepper. Do not awaken for at least a couple more years. Guessed a Pax.
  • 2005 Pax Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Sweet nose with some flowers and some heat. Sweet berries on the palate with a bit of pepper and very tannic. Had this 3 days earlier yet didn’t recognize it.

This flight split the table. Some thought the Blankiet was “sexy”. I found it sexy the way a fat midwestern tourist might be in their tight swim clothes on their first day of summer vacation on one of our beaches. The Miner and Arietta helped make up for by actually drinking like a Bordeaux variety wine should for me.

  • 2003 Blankiet Estate Merlot Paradise Hills Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Nose if flat with some tart qualities along with some green stems and reduction. Very sweet and well oaked with heat on the finish. Guessed a Napa Cab bomb. Is this really better than what’s on the middle shelf at the grocery store?
  • 1997 Miner Family Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Nose immediately makes you think of Bordeaux varietal blend with the cedar, cigar and savory red fruited notes, this also had some teriyaki aromas. Very bright palate with strong cedar Can flavors. Very nice and more in line with what makes me enjoy Cabernet.
  • 2000 Arietta Red Wine (H Block Hudson Vineyards) - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Fat nose showing green notes among the cassis and wood. Soft pretty palate shows some oaky chocolate and very strong tannins for a 2000.

Posted from CellarTracker

10

Not enough butter, popcorn and oak for you Bill? [diablo.gif]

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On the contray…too much of those for me in the Lewis.

12

That was the funny thing about the 07 to me. I usually can’t stand them as they seem like the prototypical Cal Chard and the other two were mostly that way. The 2007 was remarkably clean and pure. Very shy on the window dressings. I’m still not seeking it out to buy but I would be interested in tasting them going forward. I’m also wondering if they changed styles in not only the Chards but their other wines also.

13

nice notes, guys. thanks for posting. :slight_smile:

14

Okay Paul, I can’t just let this pass. “OC Blind Wine Dinner”?? Isn’t that a lot like, “Slow Men Working” or “Slow Children at Play”?? Tell me again what your major was? :wink:

15

Touché. [blush2.gif] Your example reminds me of a sign I saw on the London Tube, which said, “Only seeing eye dogs are allowed on the train.” The lesson? People break rules all the time – even Lit majors like me. [berserker.gif]

16

This was a real nice time and of course, lots of healthy back and forth on wine notes. Here are mines:

HANGING WITH STEVIE N AND THE OC GANG, DOING IT BLIND - Antonello In Costa Mesa (Orange County) (3/14/2009)

Thanks to once again the generous vibes of Steve Nordhoff, a group of the OC whinos got together @ Antonello for a 5 course meal and wines, served blind, provided solely from Steve’s cellar. Steve, you never cease to amaze me how giving you are within this group and the kindness you show so often. You are a true giver, my friend.

Each flight was revealed once everyone had tasted the wines and had a guess. We had a great time, paired to some nice food served by Thad’s gang in the kitchen.

Blind Whites
My serving for this flight was a mixed green salad with red apple slices, goat cheese and a balsamic.
2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
Toasty with mashmallow. Lemon curd, kiwi and a long zingy finish.
2005 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Smoky nose with some buttery oak. Viscous with papaya, a bit of wax and some fennel, along with green apple and a long finish. I thought the wine was roussanne or a rhone white and humbled again by a blind format, was proved quite wrong.
2007 Lewis Cellars Chardonnay Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
As opposed to the 2005 Reserve that preceded this wine in the same flight, this 2007 was quite different and would seemed to have been cut from a different cloth. Smoky nose, almost with a sugar cookie note. Mineral, pear, medium body with great balance and even length. My wine of the flight and a wine that was classy and well done.
Blind Reds–#1
Rich risotto
1999 Carlisle Mondeuse Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Poured from a magnum and served blind. My intial impression was a wine of about 10 years in age, as it showed the older nose with a light cream and sweet tobacco and light cedar. All of this rang for me like a 99 CA cab or something in that vein. Palate of currant, cherry, some light chocolate and notable acidity. Revealed to be the Carlisle and the first edition of this wine that he made, according to CT.
2004 Carlisle Three Birds - USA, California, Sonoma County
I intially thought syrah with the zippy blueberry and oak notes. Some chalk, espresso and dark chocolate and a touch of heat. For me, not ready and put it away for another 3 years to let the structure soften.
2000 Arcadian Pinot Noir Francesca’s Cuvée - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
This bottle came from Gerry’s cellar, poured from mag. Gerry says it was a blend of Garys’, Pisoni and Bien Nacido and was never released but was a wine that Joe would give as gifts or save for family or other types of events. Bit of smoke, a hint of stalkiness and what to me seemed light some new wood signature on the nose, but hard to imagine given the age so I suspect I am off on that point. Juicy with cranberry and mulch/loam. Clearly a pinot nose so I guessed that part correctly blind.
Blind Reds–#2
Pasta alfredo
2004 Pax Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Initially, I thought Rosella’s fruit, as it had that merde signature that faded once it sat in the glass. Big time whole cluster here, with menthol and hebals on the nose. Palate of iron ore, dark blue fruits and chalk. As it sat and I tasted the wine, I thought then it might be a Copain Garys’ but later revealed to be Pax. Stumped me there and this wine needs a few more years to let the stems soften.
2005 Pax Syrah Cuvée Keltie - USA, California, North Coast
Had a bit of what I call a “rubber” or tire smell on the nose. I don’t like this kind fo aromtic signature and I found it there, although not dominant. Deep olive, blackberry, menthol, some green notes, chalk and chocolate. Some really liked this wine, but for me, it needs time again to let the whole cluster setttle in. Full weight and big wine, for sure.
2005 Pax Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
This was a helluva wine. I know some at the dinner preferred or liked the 2005 Keltie more but this Castelli did it for me. This is the kind of CA syrah that defines the varietal for me, with the richness, dark color and flavor profile. It also of the three wines in the flight reflected the least amount of whole cluster signature (as compared to the 05 Keltie and 04 Kobler). Rich, a big blast of juicy blue and black fruit, licorice, milk chocolate and in the finish, shows some red fruit underneath. I ended up collecting about another 6 ounces of the wine, to which I finished about an hour after my original tasting note. That glass showed more whole cluster to me, more menthol, coffee and some crushed rocks, along with the dark blue and black notes and same milk chocolate. For 2009 being so young, this is my best syrah YTD. Great wine for me and my preferences.
Blind Reds–#3
Pounded thin chicken breast with garlic mash
2003 Blankiet Estate Merlot Paradise Hills Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
I did not like this wine, as to me it seemed to suggest lots of wood and one dimension. Shows off some red fruit, chocolate cherry sweet and some spiciness, which may have been some alcohol on the finish.
1997 Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
This was a very nice wine, and while I continue to feel more convicted about drinking my wines younger, for a wine with over 10 years of age, it drank very youthful. Juicy black cherry, dusty, licorice and dried herbs and some cigar leaf. Seemed fresh and young and my WOTF.
2000 Arietta Red Wine (H Block Hudson Vineyards) - USA, California, Napa Valley
Some grit/chalk, deep cherry and kind of a volcanic feel in the palate. I’m typically not into this kind of varietal mix and so while it tasted fine, did not resonate for me.
Dessert–Again, OOPS, did not get the wine…called “Nobility”, I think
Mixed fruits (berries, grapes, orange) with chunks of white and dark chocolate and some toasted walnuts

17

###!, where is Paul Lin? Paging Paul Lin…where have you gone?

18

the married life

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A lot of us are married here, Charlie and we still manage to get together.

Paul, where are you!