Pardon for the spam but busy end to the week!
CHAMPAGNES AND LIGHT REDS AT LINDA’S TABLE - (6/11/2025)
- 2021 Champagne Rousseaux-Batteux Champagne Grand Cru Verzenay Les Grandes Voyettes - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
2202 bottles made. Disgorged May 2025, 3-4g/l dosage, blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Primarily red-fruited, flabby and flat at the same time which perhaps suggested the weak vintage could not stand up to the oak use? (88 pts.) - 2018 Cazé-Thibaut Champagne Les Fourches - France, Champagne
Brought for a friend. Disgorged 17 Mar 2023, 2.6g/l dosage, 100% Chardonnay. An extra year has done this wine good, much less natty and taut than the last bottle I tried. Round and supple citrus fruit balanced the acidity well. Drink now for the freshness. (92 pts.) - 2021 Hélène Charbaut Champagne Chardonnay La Crayère - France, Champagne
1329 bottles made. Disgorged 15 Nov 2024, zero dosage, 100% Chardonnay. Was the only one that guessed this as Chardonnay because of the citrus fruit, others guessed this to be Pinot because of the round and rich nature. Similar to the Rousseaux-Batteux, perhaps the quality of fruit wasn’t able to withstand the oak use as this lacked precision and cut. (89 pts.) - 2021 Hélène Charbaut Champagne Les Pinailleuses - France, Champagne
2839 bottles made. Disgorged 15 Nov 2024, 2.5g/l dosage, 100% Pinot Noir. Was the only one that guessed this as Pinot Noir because of the red-fruited nature but the rest guessed this as Chardonnay because of the cut. Preferred this because of the drive and verve, a much better balanced wine compared to La Crayère alongside. (92 pts.) - NV Jules Brochet Champagne Prémice Brut Nature - France, Champagne
2022 base so same specs as my last note. Wow blind tasting is the true equaliser, the two most expensive bottles by market price came near the bottom for me. Similar to my previous impressions, still thought that it was an entry-level champagne that was too weighty for its own good as the fruit was less expressive today. Don’t understand the hype based on this bottling. (89 pts.) - 2016 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Hors Serie - France, Champagne
Disgorged Mar 2024, 0.95g/l dosage, 100% Chardonnay. Wow usually I am a big fan of anything from this maker but this was a huge disappointment. All structure and utterly devoid of fruit, the '18 I had previously was also shy but that was tightly coiled and had a tension that this did not have. Will chalk it down to a bad bottle. - 2019 Christian Gosset Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Pinot Noir, Croix-Courcelles Aÿ - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Brought for a friend. Disgorged May 2023, 3g/l dosage. 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. More settled than the previous bottle that I tried last year with less coarse bubbles and power, fruit was quite expressive which was a welcome change after the terribly austere Chartogne-Taillet and Jules Brochet. Perfectly serviceable champagne albeit not the most memorable, price point is a bit ambitious. (91 pts.) - NV Domaine Jamet Côtes du Rhône L9 et 10 - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Was oscillating between a Burgundy and northern Rhone at first but eventually the savoury fruit dominated the silky texture. I did wonder Jamet but didn’t fit the theme so I guessed as a Cote-Rotie, didn’t go to Jamet’s entry-level CdR as I don’t drink it that often. Apparently he blended the two vintages because '09 was too exuberant and '10 was too reserved but this had all the hallmarks of a great Jamet wine. Intoxicating nose and a sensual, cool palate with immaculate balance. A true treat to have tried this unicorn. (93 pts.) - 2022 Bastian Wolber (Laisse Tomber) Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
I guessed this to be a Comando G as it was quite similar to the bottle I opened the other day - wild, floral and stemmy nose with some candied cherry fruit on the palate. When revealed to be a Burgundy I thought maybe Cassiopee because of the brett but landed on Bastian Wolber on second guess. Fun wine as usual with this maker but not the most depth. (91 pts.) - 1989 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Slightly corked, guessed this to be an '80s old-school Burgundy. Unfortunate because the underlying material seemed to be good despite the fact that I am not the biggest fan of Bouchard reds. Slightly fading so suggest to drink up if you have any. NR (flawed) - 2021 Pierre-Olivier Garcia Nuits St. Georges Les Charmois - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
Wow most including myself went for a young Vosne or Chambolle because of the pretty, floral nose. No obtrusive tannins for a young NSG, not too candied and good backbone for a new-school producer. Impressed by whatever I’ve tried from this producer so far. (92 pts.) - 2019 Coessens Coteaux Champenois Vendange Entière - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
My contribution. Unlike the destemmed version of the same vintage that was too sweet, the whole cluster version tonight was rather austere with drying tannins. Nose was much better and closer to the '14 whole cluster version that I thought was Fourrier, so perhaps the whole cluster version of this wine is the one to go for. Will undoubtedly improve with age. (90 pts.)
SOIL THERAPY TASTING AT WINE JOURNEY’S - (7/11/2025)
Interesting micro project by Thomas Larmoyer, a self-taught winemaker without family connections or formal training other than a 9-year stint at Domaine Ostertag. A negoce project with 7 organic and biodynamic makers across Alsace, amounting to 2.5 ha of land. Overall I was pleasantly surprised at the wines as they were very well-balanced and not natty at all as some of these micro projects can be. Very good value too.
- 2023 Soil Therapy Le Geste - France, Alsace
40% Sylvaner, 40% Pinot Blanc, 10% Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Gris. Aged for 9 months in 75% stainless steel, 25% oak. A little closed at first but opened up nicely to show some slightly sweet citrus fruit. Good acidity though to provide lift, impressive depth for an entry-level wine. (92 pts.) - 2024 Soil Therapy Rittersberg - France, Alsace
60% Pinot Blanc, 40% Pinot Gris. From the lieu-dit of Rittersberg, 30km north of Colmar on granite soil. Aged for one year in oak, 6-9 months in stainless steel. Was convinced that this was a Riesling because of the acidity and slightly waxy taxture. Understandably the most coiled of the wines tonight but thought this had good potential to improve further. (90 pts.) - 2023 Soil Therapy Sylvaner Reserve - France, Alsace
Aged for 9 months in 50% stainless steel, 50% oak. Clearly not a grape that I was familiar with so managed to land on Sylvaner, very pleasant and easy drinking with floral notes that was similar to a Rhone white but with more acidity. (91 pts.) - 2023 Soil Therapy Riesling Schieferberg - France, Alsace
2 days maceration before pressing. Aged for one year in oak, 6-9 months in stainless steel. From a one week old sample so might not be representative, but the nose had a striking frangipani note that Singaporean males who have gone through military service would immediately recognise as a sign of the shit hitting the fan. Palate was fine but not a textbook Riesling, didn’t have the usual acidity profile and showed more similarly to the Rittersberg white blend that came before. - 2023 Domaine Pierre Vincent Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
My contribution. Interestingly most guess Loire SB but guess this was served too warm, at a colder temperature this was a much more classic Burgundy white. Felt this was better than the higher cuvees that I tried previously as it was less sweet and the ripe fruit + acidity combination was much better balanced. Still feel that his wines are over-made and lack emotion. (91 pts.)
2017 WHITE BURGUNDY HORIZONTAL - (8/11/2025)
Organised a 2017 white Burgundy horizontal with a pair from each major village to check in on the wines as it was the first vintage that I bought meaningful quantities of (missed the boat for '14). Wines generally performed well and showed the hallmarks of a balanced vintage, would not hesitate to open them if you have any.
- 2017 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Similar to previous impressions, well-judged oak use and tropical fruit that were well-proportioned. One of the most open wines tonight and a crowd favourite. (93 pts.) - 2017 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Others preferred the Girardin but I marginally preferred the Niellon because of the impressive nose with the slightest bit of reduction. Another old-school white Burgundy that was well-balanced with better depth than the Girardin alongside. Both Chassagnes showed very well tonight. (93 pts.) - 2017 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Started off a little flabby and honeyed which was surprising to me but tightened up with air to show the minerality that I associate with this producer. Another wine that was very open today, preferred by most including myself over the Mikulski Poruzots alongside. Excellent intensity and depth for a village. (93 pts.) - 2017 Domaine François Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Attractive, floral nose. Classic Meursault with richness, not as expressive as the Germain alongside but had the weight of a 1er cru. Not sure if this would benefit from more aging as acidity was on the lower side. (91 pts.) - 2017 Roland Lavantureux Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
I served the Chablis pair as the third flight as I realised from CT notes that they were atypical of the usual textbook Chablis. Quite weighty Chablis because of the oak use, fruit profile was similar to the Mikulski that came before, i.e., nearing the tropical end of the spectrum. Would prefer more acidity and minerality. (90 pts.) - 2017 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Some salinity but agree with the previous note that this was a riper, exotic expression of Chablis. Similar to the Lavantureux, would have preferred more acidity. (90 pts.) - 2017 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Still quite tight with taut citrus fruit, but with impressive concentration. Not as open compared to the Chassagne Morgeot in the first flight, some bitterness on the finish. Opened up with air to show the layered complexity expected of the vineyard but would benefit from more time. (92 pts.) - 2017 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Previous experiences with this producer weren’t positive but this was a pleasant surprise. Some tropical fruit but not excessively exotic, open-knit with good freshness. Drinking well now. (92 pts.)
CHAMPAGNIAC 2025 - (9/11/2025)
Huge champagne event with interesting wines but I think I no longer enjoy such large-scale events with too many people. Glad to meet Thomas Herbert who was definitely a character with a very clear philosophy which showed in his excellent wines.
Walkabout tasting
- NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Sous Bois - France, Champagne
Crowd pleaser, sweet and refreshing with sufficient acidity. (91 pts.) - NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
Normal bottle - mis en cave 2020, disgorged 2024. Magnum - mis en cave 2017, disgorged 2022. The magnum was more of everything in a good way - rich, toasty notes with more intensity. Always a crowd pleaser and a step up from the B-S as a house champagne. (92 pts.) - NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Rosé Reserve - France, Champagne
Mis en cave 2019, disgorged 2023. Reliable house rosé with the textbook chalky and bready notes that you would want. (90 pts.) - NV André Clouet Champagne The V6 Experience Brut - France, Champagne
Recently disgorged but the pourer didn’t know the bae vintage. Aged 6 years on lees but still so lean and austere. (87 pts.) - NV André Clouet Champagne Rose No. 5 - France, Champagne
Still on the lean side with inexpressive strawberry fruit. (88 pts.) - 2018 André Clouet Dream Vintage - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
More approachable and expressive than the NVs, pleasurable but lacking the precision that I would like. Didn’t get to try the 1911 but perhaps that would be a step up. (90 pts.) - NV Pommery Champagne Brut Royal - France, Champagne
Never had the best impression of this producer but this was more boring than I expected. (84 pts.) - NV Pommery Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
Again quite boring and too sweet. (85 pts.) - 2006 Bernard Girardin Champagne Cuvée Vibrato Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
100% Chardonnay, 2g/l dosage. Way too honeyed and in generic old champagne territory, would have been better a few years ago. (86 pts.) - NV A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Le Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
93% Chardonnay, 7% Pinot Noir. 50% 2020, 50% reserve wines from 2014-2019. 7g/l dosage. Similar to previous impressions, powerful and not the most refined champagne but fine for an entry-level cuvee. (90 pts.) - NV William Saintot Champagne Brut Prestige - France, Champagne
Base 2020 with 30% solera since 2020. 75% PN, 25% Chardonnay. Disgorged 14 Jun 2023, 3g/l dosage. A little natty with barley notes, good energy but not much depth. (90 pts.) - 2018 William Saintot Champagne Millésime Extra Brut - France, Champagne
Solar vintage showed with bright red fruit and higher alcohol but approachable and drinking well. (91 pts.) - 2019 Augustin Coteaux Champenois Lune Rousse - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
Wow so natty and think this vintage was made from PN instead. Like a Jura gone bad. (75 pts.) - 2019 William Saintot Coteaux Champenois Bisseuil Rouge - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
Oak treatment not managed well, insufficient fruit beneath the veneer of oak. (83 pts.) - 2016 Famille Delouvin Champagne Fauve Brut Nature Symbiose - France, Champagne
Rich red fruit but with very vibrant acidity, first time trying and very impressed. (92 pts.) - 2020 Champagne Herbert & Co. Pinot Meunier 1000% - France, Champagne
1515 bottles produced. Very good restraint and cut for a Meunier with delicate strawberry fruit. (91 pts.) - NV Champagne Herbert & Co. Pinot Noir 1000% - France, Champagne
1920 bottles made. 2020 base, superb freshness and lift to the PN fruit. Liked the tautness on this. (92 pts.) - 2016 Champagne Herbert & Co. Cuve X - France, Champagne
Similar to previous impressions, very nice salinity and cut to the citrus fruit but I preferred the PN today which was more balanced overall. (92 pts.) - NV A. Bergère Champagne Brut Origine - France, Champagne
2021 base. 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Meunier. Disgorged Nov 2023, 4g/l dosage. Refreshing citrus fruit, pleasurable entry-level champagne. Agree with Benoit’s previous note. (90 pts.) - NV Laculle Frères Champagne Le Petit Point Rouge - France, Champagne
Disgorged Oct 2023. Natty wild strawberry fruit, some VA. Not a fan. (85 pts.) - NV J-M Seleque Champagne Solessence Extra Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
45% Chardonnay, 30% Meunier, 15% Pinot Noir. Disgorged Jan 2024, 2g/l dosage. Rather astringent and lacking in fruit and presence. (88 pts.) - 2007 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires - France, Champagne
Similar to previous impressions, brilliant refinement and restraint which reinforced my view that this was the best BdM since '95. Probably the best champagne today but interestingly less seasoned drinkers called this bland. (94 pts.) - NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Premier Cru Tradition Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
40% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Disgorged Jul 2024. Rich and doughy, pleasurable in a toasty, hedonistic house style. (90 pts.) - NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Chardonnay planted in a village with mostly PN, disgorged Sep 2024. Similar toasty style to the Tradition Brut with more intensity and citrus fruit, good energy. (91 pts.) - NV House of Arras Brut Elite - Australia, Tasmania
Rich and heavier than a normal champagne but very serviceable nonetheless. (89 pts.) - NV House of Arras A by Arras Premium Cuvée Rosé - Australia, Tasmania
Quite creamy and not much of pale colour, rather sweet. (87 pts.) - 2015 House of Arras Grand Vintage - Australia, Tasmania
Similarly rich to the NV but with more popcorn and toasty notes, good complexity but not the most refined. Good value nonetheless. (91 pts.) - 2005 House of Arras E J Carr Late Disgorged - Australia, Tasmania
Quite fresh but didn’t see the step up over the '15 Grand Vintage. (91 pts.) - 2022 Bouvet - Poul Champagne - France, Champagne
Disgorged 7 Nov 2024. Cuvee made for early drinking which showed as an easy-going aperitif. (88 pts.) - NV Champagne Rousseaux-Batteux Assemblage Rosé - France, Champagne
1470 bottles made. 50% 2021, 50% 2020. Disgorged Feb 2024, 3-4g/l dosage. Approachable cherry fruit, good vibrancy and texture. (90 pts.) - 2021 Antoine Bouvet Champagne Les Monts de la Vallée Rosé - France, Champagne
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Disgorged 27 Feb 2024. Have only tried Bouvet’s saignees but agree that this was similarly robust. Good freshness and lift but definitely needs food. (91 pts.) - NV Collery Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged Jul 2024, 5g/l dosage. Way too sweet and reminded me of a generic DFS champagne, hard pass. (85 pts.)
Quick dinner after
- 2022 Domaine Florence Cholet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
Similar to previous impressions, very elegant and pretty Burgundy that punched well above its price point. Others were shocked at how much this cost. (92 pts.) - 2020 Domaine Tempier Bandol Lulu & Lucien - France, Provence, Bandol
Old-school in terms of extraction but tannins were still quite refined. A large-scaled wine without being too heavy, wanted to check in on this but agree that this would benefit from a few more years. (91 pts.) - 2016 Château Sociando-Mallet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
Good underlying material but this showed why I don’t drink young Bordeaux because it was dominated by black fruit and oak tannins.
.