NORTHERN RHONE DINNER - (31/10/2025)
Always love northern Rhone dinners and yesterday served up a great line-up of producers that were true to their terroir (so managed to guess all the appellations correctly heh). Top three for me were the ‘98 Barge, ‘16 Jamet and ‘14 Faurie but the extra Joguet that Corry brought was a shocker and ended up as one of my favourites too.
- 2003 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
From magnum. Wow most including myself thought that this was a Burgundy, guessed this as a silky maker from a cool vintage because of the slight herbaceous note. Seems like warm vintage Loires have the same amount of greenness as cool vintage Burgundies. Refined tannins but retained a rugged edge compared to more polished Rougeards, one of the best Loire Cab Francs that I’ve had. (94 pts.) - 2010 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Surprisingly fresh although the alcohol was noticeable, guessed this as a warm vintage like '15. Floral, tropical fruit with low acidity but without being flabby, not my preferred style of white but well-integrated compared to young monstrosities of this wine. (91 pts.) - 1998 Domaine Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Wow this had an explosive, Jamet-like nose laden with dark fruit and bacon fat, guessed cool vintage Jamet like '04. When revealed to be a '98, I guessed the maker because I know the cellar of the friend who brought this too well! On second thought the palate wasn’t as refined as the glorious '98 Jamets that I’ve had courtesy of the same friend even though it had the elegance of a Côte-Rôtie. Nonetheless still an excellent example of a charming old-school northern Rhone with plenty left in the tank. My WOTN. (94 pts.) - 2014 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Initially a little candied and much more primary compared to the Barge alongside, colour had a bright purple hue that brought me to either St Joseph or Cornas. Locked in '11 Balthazar Cornas as my final guess which wasn’t too far off, but was surprised that an Allemand was so open-knit as they are usually full of structure and tightly coiled blue fruit. Still not showing its full potential mind, this needs a lot more time. (92 pts.) - 2014 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Guessed a warm vintage modern Côte-Rôtie like Rostaing as this was still quite primary with some unintegrated vanilla notes. Didn’t go for Guigal and was again surprised since I expected Guigal’s LaLas to be much more unyielding and tannic. This was glossy but with freshness and precision, one of the best young Guigals that I have tasted. (93 pts.) - 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
From magnum. Old-school, deep and smoky nose that was not too dissimilar to the Barge but fruit was a lot riper and extracted on the palate. Noticeably more power so I guessed this to be a '91 Hermitage. As usual, Jaboulets can be a little blocky and foursquare, this didn’t have the freshness and precision of the Barge. (91 pts.) - 2016 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Revealed to be a pair of '16s, on first sip I immediately said this could only be Jamet. Yet to develop the distinct savoury elements but the brilliant purity of dark cherry fruit and seamless, elegant texture immediately brought me to Jamet. Approachable now but still far from its full potential. (94 pts.) - 2016 Château des Tours Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Revealed to be a pair of '16s with one southern Rhone and it was obvious that this was the ringer. Wild strawberry fruit on the nose which made most of us arrive at Rayas family easily; its candied nature didn’t quite gel with the firmness of the wine. The weakest in the line-up to me. (90 pts.) - 2011 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
My contribution, white capsule. Surprisingly plush and creamy, but the dark red fruit was still pretty coiled behind the immense structure. Good complexity that needs more time to unfurl. Interestingly most guessed both Fauries as Côte-Rôties. (92 pts.) - 2014 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Brought for a friend. Consistent with my previous Faurie experiences, powerful and elegant but with a rustic edge (rather than being weightless). Traditional and light-touch winemaking that allowed the terroir to shine, love such decidedly old-school northern Rhones. My second favorite on the night along with the Jamet. (94 pts.)
