NEBBIOLO VS SANGIOVESE - (2/9/2024)
A superb dinner by Chef Watanabe at a friend’s place, Italian-Spanish cuisine with a little Japanese influence in technique. As for the wines, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese have always been tough to tell apart for me other than the classic red-fruited, tongue-coating acidity Nebbiolo (that I love) and the obnoxiously oaked and extracted Brunello Riservas (that I hate).
- 1998 Elio Altare Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Guessed cool vintage '90s Barolo so pretty happy with that. Fully integrated (including the oak) despite its modernity; maybe being the entry-level helped. Resolved tannins and autumnal tea-like flavours, very enjoyable. (93 pts.) - 2016 Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Surprisingly most guessed Nebbiolo for this but I thought this was nailed on Sangiovese. Tannic and oaky without the acidity of Nebbiolo, only saving grace was its red-fruited notes. Rather glossy overall but others liked this a lot. (91 pts.) - 2018 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Didn’t like this at all, obtrusive oak (which was somehow more prominent in my glass) and a distracting liquorice note. Quite soupy at the moment, I think these integrate with time but are practically undrinkable young for me. Again, others liked this more than me. (85 pts.) - 2008 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barolo Vürsù Vigneto Campè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I am the first to shit on modern Nebbiolos (especially this producer), but this was a pleasant surprise today. Clearly modern with spicy oak use but wasn’t obtrusive, not overly extracted whilst remaining red-fruited. Well-balanced in the vein of Sandrone, Altare with some age. Also a crowd favourite. (92 pts.) - 2005 Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Most landed correctly in Sangio for this, guessed a tannic vintage like '06 or '08. Rather masculine; over-extraction and excessive oak use which gave some coarse tannins. Not a fan. (82 pts.) - 2010 Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Brought for a friend. Another obvious Sangio, everyone guessed this correctly. Despite being more traditional than the ‘05 Frescobaldi alongside, I still found this to suffer from over-extraction and oak use; and a little too dark and tannic. Generally prefer non-riserva Brunellos. (90 pts.) - 2010 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo Le Coste - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Said this could only be a traditional Nebbiolo producer from a good vintage. Some tell-tale VA on the nose, more pleasant but less depth than the Virna alongside but in truth they were both similarly well-balanced. Really solid effort. (92 pts.) - 2010 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Remarkably similar to the Grimaldi. Thought same producer but different vintage, guessed as another traditional Nebbiolo producer from a good vintage. A little more concentration and slightly plummier red fruit, but a lovely lift and tannic bite that were so classically Nebbiolo. Impossible to split the two '10s. (92 pts.) - 2006 Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Brought for a friend. More extracted and tannic than recent iterations (‘14 onwards) which have been wonderfully pure and red-fruited. Some slightly plummy, dark fruit. Not fully overtly modern, but a product of the in-vogue style of the mid-'00s. (91 pts.) - 2009 Elio Altare Langhe Arborina - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
My contribution, similar to my previous impression. Well-proportioned despite being modern; a good mixture of elegance and seductiveness. Sweet sensual fruit, supple tannins, and superb precision in a warm year. My favourite alongside the '98 Altare.
