Friend wanted to do a dinner with these two more unheralded villages, which (unsurprisingly) turned out to be hard to distinguish. Agreed that the quality of wines were very close in general and enjoyed most of them. Also quite pleased with myself that I managed to nail the Prevost, Cathiard, Dujac (and Faiveley to a lesser extent since the village was revealed) on first try, a lucky night that my guessing game was on point.
Sparklings to start
- 2014 Pascal Henin Champagne Grand Cru L’Appel de la Foret - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Had this multiple times and still not impressed; actually each passing time I try it I like it less. Oxidative and one-dimensional with natty notes. (88 pts.) - NV BĂ©rĂŞche et Fils Champagne Brut RĂ©serve - France, Champagne
My favourite champagne of the four; well-balanced with precision and acidity. No surprise when it was revealed to be a Bérèche, this is truly the best value entry-level out there. (92 pts.) - 2020 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie & - France, Champagne
Glad I nailed this but I think if you had mousey Prevosts before, this was easy to call. Immediately said Meunier because of the tropical grapefruit note, and probably Prevost because this was so similar to the 2019 I tried before that was too natural, mousey and ripe for me. No cut to this wine at all. (88 pts.) - 2014 Raumland Triumvirat Grande Cuvée Brut - Germany, Rheinhessen
Wow this was a pleasant surprise, I guessed a Chardonnay-dominant blend from a good maker and cool vintage like 2013. Didn’t suspect it that wasn’t a champagne. Precise green apple and pear fruit, liked the minerality and tension. Great QPR if you can find it for under S$100. (92 pts.)
The reds
- 2006 Lucie & Auguste Lignier Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Rather new-world with too much new oak and sweet fruit at first; this really blossomed with air. A wow wine by the end of dinner - silky, feminine texture with an understated weight that fully justified its GC status. Loved the concentration to the dark sappy red fruit. I have always enjoyed her wines and it’s a pity that some bad reviews drove her out of business. (94 pts.) - 2012 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Brought for a friend. A darker blue fruit profile to the Lucie CDLR alongside, most managed to identify this as a MSD. A curious one for me; both unready with its tannic structure and slightly advanced with some sous bois notes at the same time. Definitely could feel the old vine concentration as usual for this wine. (92 pts.) - 1993 Lupé-Cholet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Château Gris - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Wow some including myself actually wondered if this could be a Rousseau CDLR from the nose. Lifted, perfumed nose with some gamey notes; palate didn’t quite have the same complexity but still had dark cherry fruit that was very much alive. Definitely a NSG made in a Gevrey style. Another great example of a '93 red Burgundy going strong. (93 pts.) - 2006 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
I think I said ten times that this was a Vosne maker making NSG, and most probably Cathiard so glad I was eventually proven right. Apparently the first vintage of this plot. Still rather primary with a heavy, five-spice oak signature that brought me to Cathiard immediately. Probably the most elegant, pleasurable and red-fruited wine of the night but just missing a little depth of his Vosne 1ers. (93 pts.) - 2013 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
My contribution, paired with the '07 Vaucrains that I brought for a friend alongside. Interestingly, nobody could tell that this was a NSG or Gouges pair but some did identify that it was the same maker. Rather shut on the nose but expressive red cranberry fruit on the palate which was in complete contrast to the '07 Vaucrains alongside. Good ripeness to the fruit that made some guess this to be a warm vintage, but it did have a marked acidity and tartness on the finish. (92 pts.) - 2007 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Brought for a friend, paired with my '13 Clos des Porrets St. Georges. Some guessed this to be more youthful in the pair which made sense when revealed to the others, given that Vaucrains takes more time to come around. Understood when I spoke to Antoine at the POB event that '07 was the first vintage for the new style and it showed here; obviously structured but unlike older Gouges which were definitely wines for masochists. Some felt that this was one-dimensional but I thought it had good depth and power, if not the class and finish of some of the other producers on show today. (93 pts.) - 2014 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Thought MSD at first, but once it was revealed to be a NSG I thought very hard about the producer and said that it must be a new-school Faiveley. Attractive, lush dark red fruit with a slight cola note, didn’t have the presence of a LSG so I thought that it was a Les Porêts Saint-Georges. A very gulpable wine. (93 pts.) - 2012 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Morey St. Denis 1er Cru La Riotte - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Slightly advanced with too much sous bois and dusty tannins, most guessed '90s or early '00s. Friend bought from a Singapore retailer, maybe questionable storage? NR (flawed) - 2014 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Bottled for Ficofi - I was so damn sure that this was a Dujac only to be told that it wasn’t from a friend who peeked since it was a different label! Had the spicy dark red fruit of Dujac (though I note that this was de-stemmed) so the spice had to come from the oak use (which I felt was overdone). Lighter and simpler than their usual domaine bottlings, think the others liked this more than I did. (91 pts.) - 1992 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Some debate if this was corked but wasn’t a debate to me at all. Notwithstanding the rusticity, this bottle was clearly sound. Guessed a Vosne maker like H-N’s NSG and didn’t go to old Faiveley since this was quite resolved and very much ready. Autumnal, pretty cherry fruit and fine tea-like tannins, actually became more elegant and pleasurable with air. Was told last month in France that red Burgundies actually turned out well in '92, just that most of them were already drunk so this was a treat. (93 pts.) - 2014 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Unfortunately this was clearly corked - slightly on the nose but very muted fruit. NR (flawed) - 2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
I said this was from a really bad maker (true for reds I guess?); one-dimensional jammy, candied violet fruit. (82 pts.)
2021 Bojo tasting (might be relevant to those who are following @IlkkaL 's other thread on 2021 Morgons!)
WEA WINES BEAUJOLAIS TASTING - (1/6/2024)
- 2021 Marcel Lapierre Morgon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Agree with the summer red, fun vibes which was not what I expected from Lapierre, but did get more serious with time. Didn’t stand out in the line-up today. (89 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Passerelle 577 - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Didn’t think much of this at first other than the fact that it had good ripeness but got better and better with air. Apparently she has dialed back her black fruit and tannins which is a good thing, because her underlying wine always has great structure and fruit quality. My joint-favourite of the tasting after a couple of hours which was a surprise to me since I am usually not a fan; had the most balance and concentration. (93 pts.) - 2021 Antoine Sunier Régnié Montmerond - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
Natty but brooding, some greenness but obtrusive alcohol at the same time. A very incoherent wine. (82 pts.) - 2021 Maison Leroy Beaujolais-Villages Primeur - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
A little natural, but the most refined and Pinot-like of the wines (unsurprisingly on reveal). Only quibble was that it didn’t evolve at all over the course of the tasting. (91 pts.) - 2021 Anne Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Most carbonic notes out of the line-up with sour cherry notes, not the profile that I like. (86 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Mee Godard Moulin-Ă -Vent Au Michelon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-Ă -Vent
More brooding and black-fruited than the Passerelle 577 which I liked a lot, with less depth. (89 pts.) - 2021 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Quite shutdown at the moment, some greenness that I thought came from stem use but understand this is de-stemmed. Fruit was muted so barnyard and savoury notes dominated, a darker, more Syrah-like Bojo. (90 pts.) - 2021 Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Délys Vignes plantées en 1926 - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Another austere and Syrah-like Bojo with some greenness and spice that suggested stem use (but again I understand this is de-stemmed). Slightly chalky tannins, needs time but not sure if it has sufficient fruit/structure to age. (90 pts.) - 2021 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée Corcelette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Disappointed that I didn’t pick Foillard out in the tasting (guessed the Leroy to be the Foillard) but this took time to show itself fully. Clearly had a good backbone but the crunchy red fruit took time to show; I only went back to this after someone who I knew had a good palate told me that this was his best wine. Good balance and a crushable wine as usual, but why not pay a little more and get the Côte du Py which to me is a clear step up. (91 pts.) - 2021 Marc Delienne Beaujolais Fleurie La Vignes des Fous - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Wow not a producer that I am familiar with but this was a fantastic surprise. So beautifully balanced with pure cherry fruit, unexpected complexity for a Bojo. My joint-favourite of the tasting. (93 pts.) - 2008 Philipponnat Champagne Sec Sublime Reserve - France, Champagne
Brought as an extra to the Bojo tasting. 30g/l dosage, disgorged 2019. To be honest I didn’t know what I was buying, just saw that it was a reputable house from a good vintage available for a good price. So cloyingly sweet without any tension at all, almost like drinking sugar syrup. Interesting to try, but willing to give away my other bottle… (85 pts.)
Wines at dinner
- 1990 Château Cantemerle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (1/6/2024)
The previous notes on this were right - whatever you do, give this wine time. The first glass was so thin that it was practically undrinkable, but it gradually put on weight and concentration. An elegant Bordeaux with some old-school funk, cigar box, and mellow, resolved tannins. Not the most complex, but these old Cordier wines always have so much character. (93 pts.) - 1988 Château Léoville Poyferré - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/6/2024)
This was a masculine brute compared to the elegant '90 Cantemerle alongside, suffered when drunk side-by-side and might have enjoyed it more alone. Notably darker and denser with liquorice notes, even though this was way before they turned modern. (90 pts.)
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. And I’m always curious on the V.V. showings as I find them so fascinating in how they express vintage.