I actually like naturals as long as they are clean but just don’t have the chance to open what I have. Happy to have finally shared the Puffeney and Bastian Wolber with this crowd!
2021 Domaine La Grapp’a Chardonnay Côtes du Jura La Pierre - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Showed the typicity of a Jura Chard. Slightly cloudy, but overall quite clean with some tropical fruit. Agree that it wasn't the most exciting wine. (89 points)
2011 Jacques Puffeney Savagnin Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
My contribution. On opening, this hits you with piercing acidity. Got into its stride with air as it became more balanced. The ‘08 I had previously was too oxidative, but this was much fresher and had less sherry notes (to my liking). Loved the slightly waxy texture with a saline streak. Developed into a powerful but restrained wine. Very complete, packing both punch and tension, with a sprinkling of Puffeney magic. (94 points)
2011 Domaine Labet Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Cuvée du Hasard - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Deep golden in colour. Was slightly flat to begin with, but gained a little freshness with air. Some oxidative, bruised apple notes that never went away. Drank like an old white Burgundy. Think more recent iterations / other cuvées are better? (86 points)
2022 Domaine La Grapp’a Ploussard Les Sarres - France, Jura, Arbois
Was it supposed to be a red or a rose? Way too much VA and spritz at first but settled down to show some blood orange and pomegranate notes. Good food wine so more orange in my book! (89 points)
2022 Bastian Wolber Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Laisse Tomber - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
My extra to share with people whom I thought would enjoy this. A brilliant, perfumed nose with some coffee notes that I find common in German Pinots. Palate was tight so we decanted it for a couple of hours, after which a beautiful purity and sweetness of fruit emerged, together with a seamless and silky texture. I think liked this because it was natural but didn't go full-on glou glou (and the fact that it was absolutely delicious). Was also very impressed with my friend's dad who absolutely chugged this. (93 points)
2019 Renaud Bruyère & Adeline Houillon Arbois Pupillin Ploussard "en Aspis" - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
So my experience with the '13 Overnoy a couple of weeks ago was not an outlier. Similar impressions here - pale reddish-pink and cloudy in colour, a natty and slightly carbonic wine. Fresh wild strawberries with good depth and high acidity. Interesting but not my style (and not to mention the price..) (89 points)
2011 Domaine Macle Château-Chalon - France, Jura, Château-Chalon
Probably the first vin jaune that I liked. Fresh and not too oxidative, the high acidity brought a sharp focus to the wine that I liked. Very quaffable and thought it would've been perfect with some cheese (got some durian instead, not complaining!). (92 points)
I might be mistaken, but there were a few magnums of very old (1995?) Arbois at that pickup warehouse at Full Pull Wines when I was there last week. Your note on the 2011 makes me realize these can age well, but that’s another 16 years older. Thoughts?
If it’s under veil, Savagnin (and white Cotes du Jura in general) can drink well for decades. The magnum format should help. I would check recent TNs to make sure.
Certainly hope so! Bought a bottle of the 2015 despite the CT notes being all over the place oh well, at least Otto will be drinking half of it so I won’t have to suffer alone.
Cuvee du Hassard is a ‘sous voile’ wine. Would expect it to be very oxidative.
Just bought some 18’s. Will open one when I have guests over in two weeks time. After the 2015 it has changed name and Savagnin(5%) is now part of the blend.
Thanks for the note on the Bastian Wolber. Good call on the couple hour decant. I find these wines (even the Gamay) need quite a bit of time to unwind.
I would expect it to age well for a long time, so I think it can. This has seen less time sous voile than a Vin Jaune as an example, so might be slightly less resistant. That said then it is still important that it has been stored well throughout its life.
But I know the older Labet’s can age well. Had this well stored 1999 back in 2018 which was drinking very well and that was not even a sous voile wine.
Here’s a current tech sheet on the Arbois Tradition:
I picked up some Rolet from the 2000s recently but haven’t opened any. I would feel better if the chardonnay was also aged sous voile, but maybe the 4 years in barrel offers some protection for the long haul even if topped up. I might still take a flyer on one if the price is right (~$80 for me), but I’d definitely taste before buying multiple, as storage conditions still play a factor.
This is what I remembered as well, being similarly confused about the notes how the wine feels oxidative and how more recent cuvées should be better. Better how? An oxidative wine should be less oxidative?
i bought a couple mags of Rolet Arbois Pinot Noir from envoyer a few years back. 85 and 90. both were sound and the 90 was pretty tasty. it’d give me confidence in the whites
Yeah - sadly my first bottle I opened of this I didn’t decant long enough…got probably 75% of the way thru the bottle and realized just how good this is with enough air; absolutely beautiful wine
On the Labet, not sure if it was an off-bottle as I don’t have much experience with sous voile wines. But from my experience bruised apple notes signify oxidised rather than oxidation, and it was just dull especially in comparison with the Puffeney.
There you have it. It was premoxed sadly. If you see it around I’d urge you to give it another try. The 2008 I had at Christmas was my peak wine of 2023.
Envious for you having the puffeney! Been eyeing them for a while but auction prices are a little too high for me.
oh well, at least Otto will be drinking half of it so I won’t have to suffer alone.
