TNs--Mike on Tour--Alsace--Deiss, Kreydenweiss + extras

Sorry for the long delay–been busy!


The server who was very good, took us through the wines according to the soils, an interesting way to do things.

2015 Marcel Deiss Alsace Blanc

Blend of all the Alsatian grapes. The Pinot Gris perfume is there with light yellow fruit. Quite a muskiness and orange bits from the Muscat. Done in stainless

2014 Marcel Deiss Langenberg

20-30 yrs minimum for all their vines. This and the Engelgarten are in thin granite soil. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Beurot, Muscat and Pinot Noir. Perfume again, touch of white grape, bit of mineral. This is lovely already, has a tingly side from the Pinot Noir. Ginger and grass accents.

2014 Marcel Deiss Engelgarten

Fine bouquet of honey, lilac, pear and star fruit. Long and delish—mineral and citrus poke through the aromatic replays. Persistent too. Quite good.

2012 Marcel Deiss Rotenberg

Riesling and PG. So much floral here—nips of sweet herbs. This and the Schoffweg are on calcite soil—server describes as “warmer” soil. Sweet blast here in the mouth, bit of lychee and lots of musky tangerine and melon. A lot going on.

2012 Marcel Deiss Schoffweg

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Other side of Grasberg for this location. Much more mineral, tighter. The others love the Rotenberg (and so would Tran), but me, I prefer this style—with structure, lines, plenty of fruit—just more sharply delineated. Really good.

2011 Marcel Deiss Gruenspiel

Oh—the strawberry blast here is terrific. Pear and a bit of guava underneath. Has the beginnings of the complexity with Turkish delight tracing through. Lynn makes a good catch of honey. Always a very unusual wine.

2012 Marcel Deiss Burg

Field blend of all the Alsace varieties. Sweet rhubarb and strawberry. Rich and full dans la bouche, explodes with honeyed lime and honeydew.

2013 Marcel Deiss Mambourg Riesling

Lurking greatness here. Aroma is guarded, but more spices than the others, vanilla bean, maybe tiniest aniseed. Plus sec, great mouthfeel, just glides over your cheeks Acacia at the back with water chestnut. A wine to be reckoned with, especially in the difficult 2013 vintage

2011 Marcel Deiss Altenberg Riesling

Noble nose—all the things that have come before and add some light toffee. WOW. Explodes already with pure honey and honeysuckle. More road to travel, a lot more, but pretty stunning wine with melon, pear and lime at the core, and an unlimited ceiling. WOTD, God’s nectar, 1 bottle bought. 93+

2004 Marcel Deiss Altenberg

Muskier, more evolved and settled. Loads more baking spices in the nose. Also sweet to taste, but more mature. Very tasty, there is plenty here but this does have a ceiling.


Right next door to where we’re staying in Andlau, wanted to definitely make a visit here on the reco of my friend Andrew and my own experience with the wines. Maundey was tremendously engaging and very generous with both information and willingness to pour the wines. They’ve been bio since 1989 and Marc’s son Antoine makes the wines up here now—Marc is heading up their new-ish Rhone project.

2014 Marc Kreydenweiss Cremant d’Alsace

Zero dosage, this is made from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois. Nutty notes, very brioche. Zappy acidity—light underneath. Needs more stuff, but a mouthwatering side in texture.

2016 Marc Kreydenweiss Grimaudes Rose

Mostly Grenache 88%, 12% Mourvedre. Strawberries—jam—and some watermelon. Round and with decent acidity—this dials back on the fruit and is actually—for a Grenache wine (I tend to abhor all Grenache)—is not bad

2013 Marc Kreydenweiss Wiebelsberg Grand Cru Riesling

30-40 year vines. They lay it down for 3 years—2 in foudres and 1 in stainless. 100% Riesling. Very steep vineyard. Pink sandstone and south-facing, they have 3 hectares here. A very intriguing burnt leaf sniff to tart apple nose. Follows on palate with high minerality and baked apple. Like the cremant, quite grippy and plenty of unripe apple carry.

2014 Marc Kreydenweiss Kastenberg Riesling

1 hectare here out of 5 total. Slate-based soil. Very close proximity to the Wiebelsberg. More rounded with bits of peach, citrus and pear. Also good carry and acidity, roundness. The perfume taste goes a long time. Extremely idiosyncratic wine, the mouthfeel accentuates the flavours.

2003 Marc Kreydenweiss Moenchberg Riesling

Grand Cru—on limestone and shale soil. Dry fruit because of the heat—figs and dates are mixing in with some nutty raisin. Sweet at front, dry at back, honey at first with melon follow. An interesting wine

2014 Ansata Rouge

Rhone—vin de pays du gard. Leather, Jon gets barnyard, I see that plus dusty cherry and cocoa. Has tannins, base of raspberry, curvy

2015 Marc Kreydeweiss Kritten Klevener

A moelleux Pinot Blanc. Bright white fruits, dicing of apricot. Tingly and tasty replays with a smoked honeycomb thing

2010 Marc Kreydenweiss Moenchberg PG VT

From the grand cru. Limestone, shale. Dry fruit because of the heat—figs and dates are mixing in with some nutty raisin. Sweet at front, dry at back, honey at front, melon

Marc Kreydenweiss Eau de vie de Vieux Marc PG

I am so sad that he’s not making this anymore, one of his signature for me. 45%. Liquid fire in the nose. He flowery goes on forever. Orange blossom. This is so focused. It’s really special—orange oil, beautiful warming length. If I didn’t have 3 whiskies already packed, this would be coming with.

For dinner, I tried a glass of 2015 Domaine Xavier Wymann Pinot Blanc which displayed aromas of honey, lilac and honeysuckle, with lifted quince coming in after. Gentle and quite sweet with pear and melon—maybe a touch sweet for me.

Back with our hostess, a 2007 Rolly Gassmann PG SGN is wonderfully electric with bunches of tropical yellow fruit. The 2009 Chateau Coutet is a lovely counterpoint, unctuous and sweetly pervasive with honey, vanilla, pear and light citrus notes. The 2016 Lucien Jacob Bourgogne Rose is the perfect easy-drinking wine to end an evening with, light on its feet with berry and unripe watermelon. And the 2008 Lucien Jacob Savigny-Vergelesses 1er Cru Blanc is a representative of the vintage, still full of energy, verve and sharply-defined citrus and apple-tinged fruit.

A bientot,