HB AND LMHB NIGHT - (18/7/2025)
Organised a HB and LMHB night which was very instructive. HBs were clearly superior with more elegance and balance, whereas the LMHBs had more obvious charred notes and grainy tannins (particularly the '88 and '96). The '86 and '92 LMHBs were excellent but didn’t have the extra gear of HBs which were all showing very youthfully, these wines probably can go on forever. Unfortunately my '85 HB was hideously corked but most of the wines showed well otherwise.
- 2012 Marc Hébrart Champagne Premier Cru Special Club - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
No details on the back label. A hedonistic, red-fruited champagne that reminded me of a China apple sparkling drink. Beautifully proportioned despite the ripe vintage, as usual with Hebrart an absolute bargain. (93 pts.) - 1962 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Shockingly young, would have guessed '80s for this (my first instinct was '85 Certan de May since I knew the person’s cellar, but he said it was something he hadn’t tried before). A sensual, elegant right-bank with some toffee notes, a complete opposite to modern spoofy examples. (93 pts.) - 1989 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
My extra contribution after my '85 HB was corked. Interestingly most guessed this as late '90s but Pavel nailed it as an '89. As others noted this was still very youthful with some obtrusive tannins; consistent with my previous experience this was a classic left-bank with a long way to go. A very complete wine without excessive Cordier funk. (93 pts.) - 1986 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Similar to previous impressions, a stunning vintage of LMHB and the only one that kept up with HB tonight. The other LMHBs had grainy tannins but this had a perfumed, brooding nose with an elegant profile. By far the best LMHB. (94 pts.) - 1988 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Had a strange distracting chocolate note, didn’t hit the heights of the magnificent bottle that we had 2.5 years ago despite improving with air. Quite tannic still. (91 pts.) - 1992 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Surprisingly vibrant and the prettiest of the LMHBs tonight. Restrained with the fruit being in the red spectrum rather than black. Very enjoyable and nobody would have difficulty finishing a whole bottle of this. (93 pts.) - 1996 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Still quite tannic with dark red fruit that I wasn’t a fan of. Lacked precision. (90 pts.) - 1964 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Some oxidative and port-like notes to begin with, similar to the '64 Cheval Blanc as PCLIN mentioned in the previous note. A powerhouse that gained complexity and depth with air, very strong midpalate with vibrant blackcurrant fruit. A darker and more brooding wine compared to the '75 alongside, still plenty of life in well-stored bottles like this. (94 pts.) - 1975 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Similar to the '64 this was showing very youthfully, would have guessed a classic vintage like '88 if blinded. Superb restraint with crystalline dark red fruit, the most mineral of the HBs tonight, acidity gave the wine lots of freshness. Very elegant and aristocratic, preferred this over the '64 at first but this faded slightly with air. (94 pts.) - 1985 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
My contribution but unfortunately the most corked bottle that I’ve ever encountered. NR (flawed) - 1986 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A monumental wine that was the epitome of iron fist in velvet glove. Powerful dark red fruit that unfurled behind a sensual body and refined tannins, huge structure that managed to retain both precision and elegance. Shame my '85 was corked if not it would have been an interesting comparison. (95 pts.) - 1988 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Quite similar to the '86 except this was less complete. Very elegant and velvety dark red fruit but had a more slender frame and less power. Also less ripe than the '86 with more overt pyrazine notes. Excellent in its own right but overshadowed by the wonderful '86. (94 pts.)
- NV Champagne Gaspard Brochet Champagne Le Coq Tome I - France, Champagne (17/7/2025)
56% Pinot Noir, 22% Meunier, 22% Chardonnay. Disgorged 25 Nov 2024, 3g/l dosage. 4620 bottles made (more than I thought haha). Started off with tight citrus fruit as usual with Gaspard but was much better at a warmer temperature as the attractive red fruit became more prominent. For fans of champagnes with less bubbles. (92 pts.) - 1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (17/7/2025)
Initially dominated with rustic, soy notes but put on weight and exuberance with air. Didn’t surpass its village classification; fully resolved tannins so drink up. (91 pts.)
