Organised a Gonon vertical as I wanted to share the stash of Gonons (all the wines were provided by me other than the '16) that I had amassed over the years. All the wines were of uniformly high quality and showed why Gonon is one of my favourite northern Rhone makers. The signature in the wines to me was the delicate balancing act between the high-toned dark red fruit and the savoury, briney typicity of northern Rhone, with silky and refined tannins. Personal favourites were '15, '18, '14 and '16 in that order, but the '16 probably has the greatest potential.
- 2021 Georges Remy Champagne Premier Cru Les Quatre Terroirs - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Brought as an extra. 95% Pinot Noir, 5% Chardonnay. 76% 2021, 23% 2020 and 7% 2018, 2019. Disgorged Aug 2024, zero dosage. Ripe citrus fruit with purity and precision despite its broad nature, was a crowd favourite and also one of my favourite expressions of champagne. (93 pts.) - 1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
I guessed early '90s Jaboulet as this was quite modern and dark-fruited. Overripe to the extent of having some pruney notes so I wasn’t the biggest fan unlike most others at the table. (89 pts.) - 2013 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
More resolved and higher acidity compared to the '14, but still with bright fruit. Tannins were also slightly dustier than the younger wines. Felt like this was at peak. (92 pts.) - 2014 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Most preferred the '13 but I preferred the '14 as it had a deeper, more floral nose with more structure. Fruit was plusher, but darker than the lighter '13. Approachable now but still with a lot of potential to improve further. (93 pts.) - 2015 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Served this alongside the '16 to save the best for last. Superb floral nose with some VA, more seductive and larger-scaled than the more restrained '16 alongside. Superb juxtaposition between delicate fruit and the briney, olive notes of northern Rhone. My favourite on the night. (94 pts.) - 2016 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Served this alongside the '15 to save the best for last. This was gorgeous and brimming with potential, but slightly coiled up today compared to the more expressive '15. Palate had more restraint than the '15 with silkier tannins. Superbly poised but just needs more time. (94 pts.) - 2017 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Showed more similarly to the '16 with a more brooding, dark red fruit profile and deeper structure, albeit without as much depth. Still very good nonetheless. (92 pts.) - 2018 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Wow this was explosive from the get-go with ripe, exuberant sweet blue fruit on both the nose and the palate. Energetic and very complete, this bottle was absolutely singing. My second favourite of the night. (94 pts.) - 2019 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Similar to the 2018 but a denser and more primary. Definitely needs more time in the cellar to become more delicate. (92 pts.) - 2020 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Denser and more concentrated, dark fruit compared to the preceding vintages. I saw similarities to the '15 and I am optimistic that this will get there. (92 pts.) - 2022 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Incredible that this managed to come in at 12.5% alcohol for a warmer vintage. Still quite primary, more supple and lower acidity than the previous wines. The signature high-toned dark red fruit should gain finesse with time. (92 pts.)
- 2000 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/4/2025)
So incredibly fresh and youthful in its appearance and on the palate. Beautiful pale yellow in colour; delicate citrus fruit with some apple strudel and rocky slate notes. Seamless and delicate at the same time, I absolutely adore this producer’s wines. (94 pts.)
- NV Christian Gosset Champagne Grand Cru Brut A04 - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (5/4/2025)
From magnum, aged one year longer than the normal bottling and contains more Pinot Noir (85% vs 80% in the normal bottling). Base 2019, disgorged May 2023, 3g/l dosage. As usual with this producer, rich powerful red fruit with slight oxidative undertones, more broad-shouldered than what I usually prefer. (91 pts.) - 2020 Domaine de Cassiopée Bourgogne-Aligoté Mitancherie - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (4/4/2025)
From magnum. Developed more natty notes and lost a little acidity since the last bottle which I thought was superb. Slightly too flabby for me. I think I prefer this producer’s wines on the younger side. (90 pts.)
