Organised a Fourrier dinner and most wines showed very well, which was a testament to its consistency. Unsurprisingly, more recent vintages showed greater clarity and precision of fruit as they had less rusticity and more red fruit character; the '16s in particular were all standouts. Also felt that the Gevreys were a step up from the Petits Vougeots and Chambolles in terms of depth. Top 3 for me were the '12 CSJ which was the standout wine for everyone, and the '16 Combe aux Moines and Cherbaudes which were impossible to split.
Fourriers
- 2007 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
Similar to previous impressions, still youthful and energetic with bright dark cherry fruit. Some earthiness that was more common in older Fourriers, but still very elegant and balanced. Enjoyable and easy to love. (93 pts.) - 2011 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
Strange nose that was artificial and candied, palate was dilute and acidic. Severely lacking in fruit so maybe flawed? NR (flawed) - 2016 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
The first of the superb '16s. Fantastic balance between elegant red fruit and structure, a very complete wine. My favourite of the Vougeots, edging out the '07 because of its greater depth. (93 pts.) - 2017 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
My contribution. Started off similarly to the '11 when it was cold with a candied nose, but became more expressive as it warmed up and with air. Slightly lacking in oomph and complexity when compared to the '16 alongside. (91 pts.) - 2004 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
No greenness but had the rusticity and earthiness in older Fourriers. Slightly muscular with resolved tannins, less elegant than later vintages. (89 pts.) - 2013 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Liked this more than the others did. Tart cherry fruit, slightly powerful for a Chambolle (some commented the Vougeots were more Chambolle-like) but still had the Fourrier lift and bright plush fruit. (92 pts.) - 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Rustic with high acidity and fading dark fruit. Pre-'06 Fourriers have mostly been misses for me. (87 pts.) - 2008 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Read about '08 Fourriers being problematic and this was another example. Acidity was shrill and out of balance with the fruit. (88 pts.) - 2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Brought for a friend. From this point on the wines took a serious step up in my opinion. Very elegant and high-toned red fruit, leaner and slightly less expressive than the '16 but liked the transparency here. (93 pts.) - 2016 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Beautifully balanced and elegant while having a fine structure, an iron fist in a velvet glove sort of wine. Slightly darker-toned fruit compared to '16 Combe aux Moines but both were very close and ended up as the favourites after the CSJs. Very complete with a superb finish. (94 pts.) - 2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A good wine in its own right but overshadowed by the others. Slightly muddied with high tannins and acidity (but not as bad as the '08), fruit was darker in profile with some balsamic notes compared to the surrounding wines. Did become more elegant with time though. (92 pts.) - 2016 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Brought for a friend. Tough to pick between this and the '16 Cherbaudes but this shaded it for me as the best of the rest after the CSJs; this was slightly prettier and more transparent with some seductive spice. Another very complete iron fist in a velvet glove sort of wine. (94 pts.) - 2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Darker in profile compared to the '16s but lighter and more transparent than the Combe aux Moines of the same vintage. Very seamless and elegant but didn’t have the same backbone and exuberance of the best wines on show. (92 pts.) - 2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Unbelievably silky and elegant with superb purity of red fruit. So seamless and ethereal, had both structure and transparency. Clearly the unanimous WOTN. (95 pts.) - 2016 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Underlying quality was obvious and a step up from the other 1ers, but this was more brooding compared to the other '16s and '12 CSJ. Structure overshadowed the elegance and fruit here, needs more time. (94 pts.)
The extras
- 2006 Françoise Bedel Champagne Comme Autrefois - France, Champagne
Oxidative and rich with some tropical fruit, better acidity than the other Bedels that I’ve had. Made almost like an old-school buttery Chardonnay. (91 pts.) - NV La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru La Grande Vie - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
2017 base, disgorged Oct 2021. 4g/l dosage. Much better than my last bottle, this was much crisper with energetic citrus and green apple fruit. Even better the next day when it was more vinous and elegant. (92 pts.) - 1992 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Some bricking in its appearance. Guessed early '90s Gevrey, this had some animale notes with autumnal and resolved tannins. Still holding up very well for a supposedly weak vintage, always a treat to try birth year wines. (92 pts.)
After party
Hosted a few friends at my place since the restaurant was closed early.
- 2018 Domaine Labet Chardonnay Les Champs Rouges - France, Jura, CĂ´tes du Jura
Much more ready than the bottle last year. Some reduction on the nose at first but palate was expressive with ripe citrus fruit and electric acidity. A wine with a lot going on (in a good way), superb intensity and length. Had the wrong 2020 cork (back label confirmed it to be 2018). (93 pts.) - 1985 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Slightly reticent at first but became more expressive with time as the Cordier funk became more apparent. Autumnal dark fruit that was pretty and elegant, texturally quite ethereal for a Bordeaux. (93 pts.)
