Farewell lunch for a close wine friend who was returning to the US after 2 months in Singapore. Top 3 was clear in my mind, the stunning Beaux Frères that drew comparisons to Leroy and Rousseau, and the pair of superb Cotat and Roulot whites.
2012 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé Rosé- France, Champagne
Quite pale colour, hard to tell that this was a rosé. Rich, creamy and hedonistic with fresh raspberry fruit. A pleasant house champagne but was shocked that this goes for S$200 nowadays. (91 pts.)
2013 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre La Grande Côte- France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
Immediately said Sauvignon Blanc but didn’t realise that Cotat had a dark yellow capsule so ventured Chapoutier as a backup guess (which I thought didn’t make sense since there wasn’t any sign of new oak). Superb aromatics, crisp and precise on the palate despite the ripeness and sweetness of the tropical fruit, the minerality and purity gave this so much depth. Thought this was better than the Vatan I opened a couple of weeks ago since this was more open, Cotat is truly amazing value for its quality. (94 pts.)
2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tillets- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Rich citrus fruit with some nutty and honeysuckle notes. Guessed Meursault from early '00s but everyone agreed that this wasn’t quite Roulot-like. I thought this was more Pierre Morey in style - round with slightly tropical fruit instead of being linear with green apple fruit. Still a terrific drink, but would drink this up soon if you have any. (94 pts.)
2015 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Savagnin Ouillé Antide- France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Producer was easy to guess from the capsule, guessed 2015 because Ganevat is always terrific in warmer vintages. Had an interesting nose of freshly cut grass, palate had vibrant, zesty fruit balanced by the typical Ganevat acidity with a slight oxidative note. (93 pts.)
2022 Bastian Wolber Sur les Rails VDF- France, Burgundy, Coteaux Bourguignons
Brought for a friend. Most managed to guess Gamay for this; ripe, slightly candied dark fruit with a lovely elegance. Nevertheless agree with previous notes that this isn’t the best QPR. (91 pts.)
1964 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
So fresh that I was in the '70s for this and most guessed even younger! Savoury dark fruit that was elegant and regal without being too complex. Slightly distracting metallic and plummy note. (91 pts.)
2007 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir The Beaux Frères Vineyard- USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
A stunning nose that reminded me of the superb Leroy that I had last week, another experienced taster guessed Rousseau Ruchottes - enough said. Apparently some bottle variation but this was superb, nobody could tell that this was a new-world. Agree that this is at peak and should be drunk up. (94 pts.)
2014 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Typical new Faiveley that had attractive, slightly candied dark red fruit whilst retaining restraint. Guessed '18 Latricieres after this was revealed to be a Faiveley, impressive weight with fine-boned tannins that I couldn’t tell this was a Corton. Will get even better with a few more years in the cellar. (93 pts.)
2014 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT- Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
My contribution. Most guessed Italy correctly but they went for Nebbiolo. Some lifted VA on the nose, seductive red fruit and texture but tannins were still quite biting on the finish. Needs more time but the attractive primary fruit gives pleasure now. (93 pts.)
2005 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Smoky dark blackberry fruit, very tight and not as expressive as the '04. Not sure if it has sufficient fruit to outlast the tannins. (91 pts.)
1997 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
The first Roumier that I truly understood and loved. Deep, sensual nose and palate; fully integrated dark red fruit that was both powerful and ethereal at the same time. Haunting finish, truly an iron first in a velvet glove sort of wine. Roumier in ‘off’ vintages seems to be the sensible play as they are often too structured in the ‘better’ vintages. (96 pts.)
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Consistent with the last bottle two years ago from the same friend, another fantastic Rousseau experience. Explosive nose with some tea leaves and dried raspberry fruit, palate was seamless and elegant with an unerring focus. Didn’t have the stuffing of the Roumier alongside but I love such understated, pretty wines that are the epitome of Pinot to me. (95 pts.)
2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Not sure why these old Arnoux get a bad rep, my experiences with them have been consistently excellent. An intoxicating spicy nose similar to the ‘04 RSV and Suchots that I tried previously, palate was more masculine (might have been a brute in its youth) and darker-fruited compared to the Cathiard alongside, but still a very complete and seamless wine. (94 pts.)
2008 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Rather tight to begin with some prominent ‘08 acidity, became more seductive and integrated with air. Agree with a previous note that said this wasn’t very Cathiard-like - very pretty red fruit with no traces of unintegrated oak. Superb precision and linearity. (94 pts.)
1999 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva- Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Agreed with Dibbs that this was similar to the '06 Cerbaiona that we tasted together before - impressively built with fierce tannins and stern black fruit, but with an underlying purity of fruit. Never quite opened up, it did show some sweeter fruit but also developed some pruney notes. A relative disappointment. (91 pts.)
2013 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Sangiovese Toscana IGT- Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Curiously sweet and candied red fruit in the new-school Grenache vein. Gained some structure with air but still felt too airy to me. The superlative '06 that I had a few years ago perhaps straddled the traditional style of the '99 and the new-school vibes of '13 perfectly, as both Solderas today were very disappointing to me. (91 pts.)
2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
My contribution. Opened at 10am for dinner, poured out an ounce and corked back (didn’t want to give it the full 24h treatment but believe this is the right preparation for Rayas). Superb aromatics with candied, wild strawberry and watermelon fruit, palate was a letdown as it wasn’t precise nor clean with some overripe sweet fig notes. Very disappointed since I read that this was a fantastic Rayas vintage, but guess I drew the short end of the bottle variation stick. (90 pts.)
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Alluring nose with smoky bacon and olive notes that was unmistakably northern Rhone. Powerful spiced black fruit on the palate; quality of fruit and tannins were still in tip-top shape but felt the wine was in its tertiary phase that made it seem elegant. A different animal to to Burgundies but equally balanced and complete, last glass of this was the best. I adore these old Guigals, but they really need a minimum of 30 years to integrate. (95 pts.)
That 97 Roumier BM is a really good wine; I’ve had it a couple times lately. I’ve found 96 Rousseau to be very hit or miss. 98 Ruchottes or CSJ would’ve been an interesting comparison.
I always appreciate your notes and your insights–thanks for posting these. I have to say, though, I was surprised by your love for the '07 Beaux Freres. I have drunk a bit of these from that epoch–05-08 and I guess I always found them heavy, potentially interesting if you like the style. Maybe they needed the extra 5-10 years, but GC Burg, even Leroy, never leaped to mind (admittedly i don’t drink very much Leroy).
Cheers Joshua, the person said only this shipment from France tasted like that. When they sourced for more of the same wine direct from the winery, they were heavier, sweeter and more overtly new-world. Bit of a curiosity but everyone definitely thought high-class Burgundy when blinded that day!
1996 Louis Roederer Champagne Vignoble de la Montagne Late Release- France, Champagne
Very interesting champagne; late release but disgorged at the same time as the original release, made from vineyards in Verzy and Chouilly. Absolutely pristine; crisp and linear citrus fruit, some early-stage tertiary notes of almond, caramel and hazelnut without being too oxidative. Slightly sweet and lush but still retaining tension and minerality. At its absolutel peak, one of the best champagnes that I have tasted this year amongst tough competition (also emptied by the table in double quick time). (95 pts.)
NV Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Fût De Chêne Brut Rosé Aÿ- France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Maker was easy to guess from the bottle shape, correctly guessed '18 base because of the ripeness and approachability. Fresh raspberry fruit, enjoyable with no noticeable oak which was surprising for a Giraud. Suffered from being served alongside the superlative '96 Roederer late release. (92 pts.)
2003 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet- France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
My contributions were a pair of '03 Dauvissats, both had perfect corks from yellow wax capsule bottles. Amazingly fresh but betrayed the warm vintage with a richer, nuttier style that most guessed new-world at first. When revealed to be an old-world, most guessed '10 Meursault. Better at a lower temperature to coax the signature Dauvissat acidity out, got better with air as the pedigree of the 1er Cru vineyard showed with a longer finish over the village. My first '03 white; very pleasurable but my suspicion is that this must have been acidified as the acidity did not completely gel with the fruit. (93 pts.)
2003 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis- France, Burgundy, Chablis
My contributions were a pair of '03 Dauvissats, both had perfect corks from yellow wax capsule bottles. Obvious similarities of rich, nutty citrus fruit to the Séchet but this was fresher with some VA funk on the nose, which was possibly why half the table preferred this and thought this was the 1er at first. The fruit didn’t hold up as well as the 1er over time, and also had a relatively shorter finish. (91 pts.)
2017 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo- Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Both oxidative with nutty, honeyed notes; and natural with high VA, so guessed Joly. When revealed to be an Italian, I immediately said it was young Pepe that is advanced, consistent with my unfortunate experiences with their recent whites. (85 pts.)
1999 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Deep, brooding dark red fruit laced with some spice on both the nose and palate, my first instinct was Malconsorts from a masculine Vosne maker. When the person who brought this said I was on the right track, I realised he had revealed the identity of this wine to me last Friday at another dinner. Absolutely purring today and we agreed that Méo can be overlooked producer, but was surprised that a '99 appeared to be at peak. (94 pts.)
1998 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
So wonderfully red-fruited that I thought it was a Chambolle! After some time it fleshed out to be an iron fist in a velvet glove sort of wine, with earthy, slightly ferrous notes. Very lithe and harmonious for a '98, always a treat to have a Jadot CSJ. (94 pts.)
1987 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva- Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Guessed American Zinfandel because of the overt sweetness, and when revealed to be an old-world I thought it was an Italian Merlot. No overt oak influence other than a creamy texture; vibrant dark cherry fruit for its age. Interesting to have tried but I wasn’t the biggest fan - sweetness was too distracting, and it didn’t have the power or structure of LdHs of a similar age. (91 pts.)
I amassed a good collection of Rinaldi Langhes but haven’t tasted them, so organised a mini-vertical dinner with some friends. Threw in a couple of Bartolos that I still had, and some generous friends brought extras. The Rinaldis were a different class, with a purity of fruit especially in the '13, '16 and '19 (only bought the relatively better vintages as evident from the line-up). Sequenced the wines based on my understanding of the vintages, think it was pretty much spot on if I may say so myself. Rinaldis / Bartolos
2018 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Better than my last bottle, this was absolutely singing tonight with pretty dark red fruit that seemed to be at peak. Was preferred by the traditionalists over the more candied Rinaldi but I couldn’t split the two. (92 pts.)
2018 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
More candied and floral than the Bartolo alongside that I found alluring, but others might find candied and post-modern. Still acceptable to me, reminded me of a good maker’s '19 Burgundy (post-modern Nebbiolos are like the god awful Burzi in a later note that bore no resemblance to Nebbiolo). Fresh and softer tannins than the other vintages which made this more approachable, gained structure with air. (92 pts.)
2015 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
More expressive than the '18s that came before but evolved quickly in the glass to have balsamic, potpourri notes. Resuscitated itself to become more alive at the end, had more structure but also with some pruney notes. Very restrained for the warmer vintage. (92 pts.)
2019 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Wow this was singing out of the gate, vibrant red fruit that was elegant and defined at the same time. Third favourite of the night, not as complete as the '13 or '16 but might be just a matter of more time needed. (93 pts.)
2022 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Fresh but still candied and primary; bore the most similarities to the '18. (91 pts.)
2013 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Quite disappointing, lots of soy so think this might have been oxidised because of a faulty cork. NR (flawed)
2013 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Very youthful compared to the '13 Bartolo alongside, fantastic structure and purity as expected of '13s. A little tannic compared to the '16 and '19 Rinaldis but it will be worth the wait. My second favourite of the night. (93 pts.)
2016 Giuseppe Rinaldi Nebbiolo Langhe- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Sequenced the best for the last. Combined the freshness and floral elegance of the '19 with the purity and structure of the '13. The most complete wine of the night. Iron fist in velvet glove stuff, and my favourite of the night. (94 pts.)
The extras
These showed why even basic wines from the top producers are a clear step up in terms of texture and purity of fruit.
NV A. R. Lenoble Champagne Grand Cru Les Aventures Blanc de Blancs- France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Blend of '08 and '09, 3g/l dosage. Starting to develop some secondary oxidative notes, but otherwise a solid BdB that was in my wheelhouse (should have paid more attention to this but was finished before I could revisit). (91 pts.)
2015 Fabio Gea Alba Falavosca- Italy, Piedmont, Alba
Quite idiosyncratic as usual with this producer’s wines, agreed with the person who brought it that this bore more resemblance to a Grenache rosé. Some viscosity and tomato juice vibes, a clearly natty curiosity but surprisingly I didn’t mind this. (91 pts.)
2017 Gaja Langhe Sito Moresco- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Unsurprisingly quite international in a chocolate milkshake way but drinkable in an anonymous fashion. (89 pts.)
2019 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Apparently the first year they experimented fermenting completely in concrete, perhaps that was why there was an unbearable burnt tire and gasoline note on the nose. Palate was light and forgettable; my first Produttori Langhe Nebbiolo and this showed why I never bought one as I completely agree that it is better to go for the straight Barbaresco for a marginal increase in tariff. (87 pts.)
2022 Burzi Langhe Nebbiolo Runcaja- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
No idea what this producer is going for - maybe Beaujolais with Nebbiolo? Unbearably sweet, candied red fruit with carbonic maceration notes. Hard pass. (82 pts.)
2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Not a grape that I am familiar with, most were in Sangiovese but I thought this was a modern-styled Nebbiolo from the late '90s. Impressively built but quite extracted and tannic to me, not the red-fruited style that I expected from Vajra. (90 pts.)
Annual high school Christmas gathering at a private dining. Liked the elevated local, familiar aspect of the food, done in an unassuming manner with a lot of thought put into it.
2017 Marie Demets Champagne ‘Intransigeance’ Extra Brut- France, Champagne
Disgorged Dec 2021, 56% Pinot Noir and 46% Chardonnay, 1g/l dosage. A bold, big-boned red-fruited champagne that didn’t lack elegance or acidity. Very delicious, have liked what I’ve had from this producer so far. (92 pts.)
2008 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés- France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
Wasn’t difficult to guess that this was a Cotat, very similar to the '13 Grande Côte last week. Ripe green fruit without being sweet, the restraint made it obvious that it was from a cooler year so guessed '13. Remarkable freshness and precision for a wine of this age, I am beginning to think I need more Cotats in my cellar. (93 pts.)
2002 Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
Took a punt on this and was pleasantly surprised; wasn’t expecting much from a 22 year old wine from a low-intervention maker. No new oak, nice purity of red cherry fruit with low extraction which was a nice surprise since this was in the middle of the Parker era. No danger of falling over anytime soon, would age the younger vintages in my cellar for longer. (92 pts.)
2022 Alain Graillot St. Joseph- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Wanted to give this a test drive since I’ve never had a St Joseph from this producer. Very primary, sweet red fruit that most others guessed Beaujolais, but fleshed out the northern Rhone character of savoury bacon notes on the nose with air. More body than their Crozes-Hermitage, but would be happy to drink any Graillot wine. (92 pts.)
2018 Cesar Marquez Bierzo Sufreiral- Spain, Castilla y León, Bierzo
Decided to share this after finding this stray bottle in the cellar. Wild, aromatic nose of dark cherry fruit; some tannins present on the palate but not obtrusive. Lovely purity to the fruit that reminded me of Balthazar stylistically (even though obviously wildly different grapes), the unanimous favourite red of the dinner among a table of non-wine geeks and myself. (93 pts.)
2022 Comando G Villanueva de Ávila- Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (23/12/2024)
Possibly the first Comando G that I liked. Lifted red strawberry fruit that wasn’t so candied that it was a caricature of itself. Palate showed good restraint and wasn’t blowsy, with good acidity and freshness. Held up well on second day when I shared the leftovers at another dinner. (92 pts.)
2022 Domaine de la Vougeraie Beaune Blanc- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune (23/12/2024)
My first Vougeraie, usual criticism of these wines is that they are overoaked but felt this was well-judged. Attractive, ripe citrus fruit that got more expressive with air, old-school style with sweet butterscotch notes. Good everyday Burgundy white that punched above its weight, most guessed 1er and even GC when I shared the leftovers the next day. (92 pts.)
2010 Domaine de Chevalier- France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (23/12/2024)
Clearly leaning modern with plush, concentrated purple fruit; not as overly extracted or ripe as the horrendous '09 that I had previously. Still a baby, would leave these for a decade more. (91 pts.)
2012 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut- France, Champagne
Rather astringent at first, so I thought that it was an '11. With time in the glass, rounded out to give a more classic Comtes expression of creamy, fresh green fruit; overall still felt quite youthful and unready. (92 pts.)
2005 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
My contribution. Perfumed, floral nose with a touch of reduction and VA; palate had bright, slightly sweet red fruit. Absolutely in the zone now, the warmer vintage helped to give this more stuffing than usual. (93 pts.)
2005 Robert Michel Cornas Cuvée des Coteaux- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Brought for a friend. Very pretty and elegant for a Cornas, dark, slightly plummy red fruit with some liquorice on the finish. Some at the table preferred this to the Jasmin marginally, but it was really a tough call and a few of us including myself couldn’t split the two wines which were such true expressions of Syrah. (93 pts.)
2007 Ferraton Père & Fils Ermitage Le Méal- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
International style with too much new oak and dark fruit in a similar anonymous vein to Chapoutier. Guessed '09 Delas Cote Rôtie. (85 pts.)
2011 Ferraton Père & Fils Ermitage Le Méal- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Was surprised that this was the same producer as this was much better than the ‘07 alongside. More restraint and less obvious new oak use, enjoyed the purity of red fruit. Guessed a red-fruited producer like Balthazar (!). (92 pts.)
2005 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie La Madinière- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Advanced with brambly, smoky dark red fruit that was mostly faded. Most including myself guessed early '90s for this. NR (flawed)
2009 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Ogier is one modern maker that I don’t mind; on the darker side of the fruit spectrum with some oak use that wasn’t too obtrusive. Warm vintage was well-managed, hedonistic without being over the top. Guessed ‘09 Hermitage. (92 pts.)
2014 J.L. Chave Sélection Hermitage Farconnet- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Quite sleek and restrained in terms of structure but fruit packed some underlying power; guessed '15 Cornas from a traditional producer but turned out to be a cooler vintage from a modern producer (I usually find Chave negoce to be very international). Found this to be quite similar to the Ogier that came before - pleasurable, albeit a little simple.
2000 Alain Voge Cornas- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Some VA and coffee notes on the nose, palate was elegant but quite evolved with autumnal fruit. High acidity so guessed a cooler vintage like '08 Côte-Rôtie. Always had Voge down as a more modern-leaning producer but from my experience their oak always integrates. (91 pts.)
2006 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Oak quite prominent on both the nose and the palate; spicy dark red fruit that bore little resemblance to Syrah. An international style of Syrah that I detest. (84 pts.)
2003 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
I am usually a fan of Rostaing but this was so polished and anonymous that I thought this was a Chapoutier. The palate belied the hot vintage with cherry liqueur and slightly overripe fruit; also had a zing of disjointed acidity on the finish which made me think this was acidified. Slightly more integrated with air. (88 pts.)
1983 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
A resolutely old-school wine that was a little rustic with fading dark red fruit, some remnants of structure to suggest that this was a powerhouse in its youth. This was WOTN for most others but this was late-stage Elvis to me; the Guigal Hermitage that I tried from the same vintage was much more vivacious and interesting. (91 pts.)
As usual, a fantastic party with a wonderful spread (and the best beef wellington).
2014 Pascal Henin Champagne Grand Cru L’Appel de la Foret- France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Brought for a friend. Similar to the bottle a couple of weeks ago, good acidity and balance without any oxidative notes. Perhaps this is in a better spot now than 6 months ago. (92 pts.)
2007 Rare Champagne- France, Champagne
Similar to previous impressions. Rich and heady house style with obvious sweetness, but more balanced and linear than the '06. (92 pts.)
1985 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Superb freshness with vibrant dark red fruit, a muscular Barolo from yesteryear that is giving lots of pleasure today. Always impressed by Marchesi from this era, just learnt that they were made by Sandrone during this period! (93 pts.)
2020 Jessica Litaud Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru La Maréchaude- France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru
My contribution, from magnum. Didn’t like her Les Crays from the same vintage previously but this was much better balanced. Still had ripe, slightly sweet fruit but cleaner and less tropical in nature. A very quaffable white that was a crowd favourite. (92 pts.)
1993 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
In fairness I could tell that this Chapoutier was an obvious northern Rhône at very least. Fading sweet fruit, other than the smoky notes on the nose this was on the downslope towards generic old wine territory. (90 pts.)
1999 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Much better than my last experience with this. Incredibly vibrant, sappy red fruit with some signature Sorrel VA. Very pretty Burgundian style, my favourite of the night. (94 pts.)
1983 Domaine de Chevalier- France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Thought this was an old Burgundy with autumnal resolved fruit; no greenness and tannins at all. Acidity and tertiary notes dominated at this stage of the wine’s life. Pleasant if not memorable. (90 pts.)
2012 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Masculine with unintegrated oak; distracting liquorice note on the nose. Quite one-dimensional for a grand cru, think recent vintages of this domaine are much more refined. (89 pts.)
2001 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Not sure about CT 95.0 but another older wine that was fully resolved and Burgundian. From previous notes this seemed like a woody brute in its youth but the only clue that this was a CdP was some plummy notes now. Good restraint and acidity. (92 pts.)
2004 Domaine François Gerbet Clos Vougeot- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Brought for a friend. No ’04 green but had some stemmy motes. Thin with unbalanced acidity, but did put on weight with air. (89 pts.)
2011 Francois Confuron-Gindre Echezeaux- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Ridiculously ripe and concentrated for an '11, so did not have any greenness. Definitely felt like he was overcompensating for the vintage with confected, overripe sweet fruit. Similar to the ‘12 J-M Millot Ech, another masculine burgundy that I wasn’t a fan of. (85 pts.)
2004 Mount Mary Quintet- Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
Wow so old-school and restrained that I thought this was nailed on right bank Bordeaux. As usual with these older Mount Marys, this had soft, slightly sweet dark red fruit that was delicate and balanced. My second favourite on the night. (94 pts.)
1995 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Tight and unyielding at first with a distracting liquorice note which thankfully dissipated. Took time to unfurl some pretty and youthful red fruit, a silky Bordeaux with some grippy tannins that was very much in my wheelhouse. Very good depth. My third of the night, I really should drink more Ducru. (93 pts.)
2021 Arnaud Lambert Saumur Brézé David- France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
High acidity with some herbal notes, didn’t quite gel with the round tropical fruit. Usually a fan of this producer but not the most balanced vintage of this. (88 pts.)
2005 Château Jean-Faure St. Émilion Grand Cru- France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Both overripe and over-extracted to me with black fruit and rough tannins. Popular with non-wine geeks that liked heavier wines. After some time it developed some stewed, pruney fruit; seems to be on the downslope. (88 pts.)
2017 Château de Charodon Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
An alluring nose with some wildness and stemminess. Palate was quite light to the point of being anaemic, seemed a little advanced too with some greenness so would have guessed '11 if blinded. (89 pts.)
NV Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Rosé de Saignée- France, Champagne
My extra. 2019 base, 100% Meunier. Similar to the previous times I’ve had this; frothy mousse in the glass, but was actually quite vinous with wild strawberry notes. Serious but enjoyable. (92 pts.)
2000 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
My contribution. Acidity stuck out at first, though the usual d’Angerville pretty, sappy red fruit helped to balance the wine. Put on weight and became more savoury with air that helped others to land in Volnay when they originally guessed Rhone. Love these classic red-fruited Burgundies with an acidic spine. (93 pts.)
2001 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon Henri Boillot- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Quite ripe and extracted with some unintegrated oak. The sweet fruit led most including myself to guess a warmer vintage like ‘99. Power over finesse as usual for Boillot’s reds, wasn’t the biggest fan of this. (87 pts.)
1990 Mommessin Clos de Tart- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Glad to try a sound bottle after an oxidised one last year. A fresh, seductive wine with some smoky red fruit that led some to guess Rhone. Beautiful balance between salinity and spice, very textural wine that was impressive but think others had even better bottles judging from the scores from previous tasters. (94 pts.)
2009 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Guessed NSG Boudots at first but the Vosne spice became more apparent with air so went for that. Elegant and lithe (especially for a Jadot); acidity was very prominent so guessed '13. A very solid effort as usual from Jadot. (93 pts.)
2003 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin en Champs Vieilles Vignes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Seductive dark red fruit, so silky and seamless with some air. Deep and elegant at the same time, this Mortet transcended its village classification and the vintage. (94 pts.)
1990 Château L’Evangile- France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Lots of stinky barnyard funk on the nose which blew off. Guessed right bank with the seductive, slightly plummy fruit but went for ‘85 as I thought the fruit was not vibrant enough to be '90. A little chunky and clumsy for me but others liked this a lot. (92 pts.)
1998 Dominus Estate- USA, California, Napa Valley
Clearly new-world from the sweet fruit and some eucalyptus notes, thought the greenness wasn’t from Cab so guessed Grange. Fruit was a little riper and more extracted than I would have liked, supporting my hypothesis that ‘97 was the inflection point in Napa. (90 pts.)
1997 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Dark fruit that was more reminiscent of Sangiovese than Nebbiolo; very woody with overt chocolate and menthol notes that I thought was very strange. Not the best bottle I think. (88 pts.)
2010 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A friend and I decided to open this after many positive reviews and a superb Rinaldi Langhe tasting that I organised last week. Unfortunately this was completely shutdown despite its obvious quality. Tannins were very refined, texture was pure silk but the fruit just did not want to come out to play. Needs a lot more time. (91 pts.)
2002 Château d’Yquem- France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Usual Sauternes markers of honey and apricot but this lacked acidity to me. Serviceable otherwise but I akways found d’Yquem to be overrated. (91 pts.)
1964 Mahler Chapelle-Chambertin
No trace of this producer on CT, think it was bottled by a Swiss negoce. Guessed ‘60s for this because of the tertiary fruit that was autumnal and bordering on anaemic. Superb aromatics but palate had nothing going on except acidity, the ‘64 Lynch Bages tasted with the same group a few weeks back was much more vibrant.
2006 L. Tramier & Fils Corton Charlemagne- France, Burgundy
Old-school style that was large-scaled with overt oxidative, honey notes. Guessed early 2000s CC, good weight but too flabby for me. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine Michel Caillot Bâtard-Montrachet- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
My contribution. In contrast to the Tramier alongside, this was lightweight and underpowered for a grand cru, never mind a Bâtard. Pleasant citrus fruit but nothing more, would have guessed weak 1er at best. Most others guessed Chablis from an acidic vintage. Did put on some weight with air but not depth. (90 pts.)
2010 Rapet Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Another old-school white but with more tension than the Tramier. Creamy texture with a lactic note, slightly tropical fruit with butterscotch notes. Guessed Girardin '09 CC. (90 pts.)
2017 Domaine Poisot Pere & Fils Corton-Charlemagne- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Thought this was a Chevalier initially but when the person who brought it said that there were similarities to the previous wine I said it was a ‘17 CC. Chiselled citrus fruit, most balanced and fresh of the whites that made it the unanimous favourite for the white flight. (92 pts.)
2017 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Managed to nail new-school Faiveley but thought ‘18 Gevrey. Slick and slightly candied fruit with good concentration.A little rusticity but not the fierce tannins of Corton. Surprisingly ready and enjoyable despite being primary. (93 pts.)
2010 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Clos St. Denis- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Reminded me of the H-N Clos Vougeot I tasted last year but someone else guessed Felettig which was a better guess. Very refined and silky texture, attractive dark red fruit with some spice but with a masculine structure. Impeccably balanced like most ‘10s. The unanimous favourite for the red flight. (94 pts.)
2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
First time trying a BdM red, thought '18 because it was so primary and candied but realised it was older once the rusticity showed. Someone said '10 or '05 but I said '05 was the better guess because of the tannic edge. Powerful and structured like a typical Corton, but its red-fruited nature made it attractive and approachable. (92 pts.)
2005 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Bressandes- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Wonderful aromatics and a seamless texture that made me think Vosne, nobody was anywhere near Corton or '05. Lovely texture but a little simple, it lacked the extra gear of the Jayer-Gilles alongside and most concurred after some time. (91 pts.)
2005 Domaine Robert Jayer-Gilles Echezeaux du Dessus- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Barnyard on the nose which I felt distracted the others from the superb palate, thankfully it did blow off eventually. Large-scaled and powerful dark fruit with a silky texture, agreed with a friend who said warm vintage Echezeaux but went for '09. Haven’t had much of this producer but I think similar to the old-school Laurent mould where the oak integrates with time based on this. (93 pts.)
2017 Domaine Poisot Pere & Fils Romanée St. Vivant- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Still primary and candied, guessed '18 Echezeaux. Not very RSV or grand cru in stature, don’t see the potential here. (90 pts.)
2017 Emmanuel Rouget Côte de Nuits Villages- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (31/12/2024)
Last wine of 2024. Initially this was quite tight with not much showing on both nose and palate. One-dimensional sweet, candied fruit on the nose that reminded me of a new-school Grenache; nowhere near the superbly wild, more old-school '12 that I had a couple of weeks ago. Palate became more saline and silky with air, clearly a top-class maker but still rather primary now. High alcohol for a '17 (think this was higher than the 13% stated on the label). (90 pts.)
