Both drunk over two evenings, side by side:
2007 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Colour deep red, tending black. Half an hour after opening, intoxicating bouquet of dark cherries, cherry liqueur, perfume of dark roses, some spice and black pepper, starting to move earthy, sous bois and underbrush. Clear Gevrey signature. Over the two nights moved more animale, but securely caged, with fragrances of smoky, barbequed, bloody game meat. On palate, fully ripe, with good depth, intensity and concentration. Sleek, fine grained tannins, well integrated. Poised, with real tension. Beautifully balanced, succulent acids are the defining characteristic of this wine. Flavours of dark berries, earth, porcini mushrooms and barbequed game meat (this would pair beautifully with grilled wild venison). The longer the Cazetiers is open, the more animale (in a good way) it becomes. Finishes savoury and dry with good length. Complex and interesting now, will develop over at least the next 8-10 years. At least, 93.
2007 Nicolas Potel Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
Light ruby colour. An attractive, refined nose of red, not black, fruits: cherries, raspberries and red currant. Slightly candied aroma, like candied cherries, with some cinnamon. A perfumed top note, with some florals, perhaps jasmine or lilac. Bouquet strongly suggests Volnay. Sweetish entry to the palate, in a lighter, slightly lean style. High acids, initially appearing a little unbalanced, improved and balanced out somewhat by time in the glass and food (roast vegetables). Tannins very smooth and fine, an elegant wine, with a red berry flavour profile. Finishes dry with reasonable length. With time, it does put on some weight, but overall lacking a bit of depth, concentration, balance and complexity, to take it beyond a pleasant, fairly straightforward Burgundy. The wine has some of the characteristics some criticise about 2007 red Burgundies. Perhaps with more cellar time it will blossom into something more complex and compelling, but I doubt it. 89.
The Clos des Chênes is actually one of the better 2007 Potels I have had. Generally, they have seemed a little bony and dilute.
I have been very impressed with Faiveley’s 2007s (eg see TNs: Two Burgundies drinking very well now ... - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers). Perhaps the typically “grunty” Faiveley house did better than the more ethereal Potel style in this challenging, leaner vintage?
) but a number of wines from that vintage surfaced 2-3 years later, and they were not the same, different corks - everything but the labels - but then somebody else owned the business…