TANARO WINE DINNER - Palate Food + Wine - Glendale, CA (2/5/2010)
On Friday, Tanaro River Imports hosted a dinner at one of my favorite LA restaurants, Palate Food + Wine in Glendale. In spite of the rain and ensuing traffic delays and headaches, everyone made it out for what would be a truly memorable meal. Indeed, it was a glorious evening with great people and a surfeit of great food and wine. Thanks to George Tita of Tanaro for hosting, Paul Wasserman for his wine assistance, and the crew at Palate for a well-executed and tasty dinner.
Everyone seemed to have their favorites, but for me, my WOTN were the 2004 Rinaldi Cannubi and the 1999 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays.
First Course
porkfolio: prosciutto san daniele / speck / salumi: hot wrap / finocchiona / saucisson sec / bresaola
pickles + olives
chicken hearts / rosemary skewers / balsamic + red onion marmalade
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**1988 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A nicely aged Auslese that is drinking at peak right now. Honeyed notes of petrol, white flowers, dried pineapple and peaches. Subtle and lithe on the palate. Perfect with charcuterie and pickled vegetables. (92 pts.) -
1993 Klein aux Vieux Remparts Gewurztraminer Schlossreben - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
I think this wine is slightly past its prime, for while the nose remains very interesting and complex, the palate is a little washed out and lean. Faded notes of lychee, celery root, honey, and mint. (84 pts.) -
2005 Littorai Chardonnay Mays Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
This was an elegant and restrained expression of California Chardonnay. Lustrous notes of orange blossoms, lemon verbena, honeysuckle, ocean spray, and almond slivers. Balanced and delicate. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)
Second Course
market lettuce / radish / hass avocado / gorgonzola vinaigrette
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2002 Domaine Berthet Bondet Château-Chalon - France, Jura, Château-Chalon
A wildly exotic wine that kind of confounds me, for the nose could not be more different from the palate. Marzipan, Turkish Delight, maple syrup and sherry on the nose. Bone dry, slightly austere, and nutty on the palate. Paul Wasserman calls this “liquid crack.” I think this works better with food than by itself. (88 pts.) -
2002 Domaine de Montbourgeau Savagnin L’Etoile - France, Jura, L’Etoile
Another intriguing wine, but one that I think is not as exotic and punk rock as the Berthet-Bondet. Juicy notes of orange and lemon peel, wet stones, and walnuts. Tangy and bright on the palate with very nice acidity. (89 pts.)
Third Course
english pea agnolotti / pea tendrils / ava oil / spiced lobster sauce / green garlic
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1997 Antinori Solaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Sadly, this bottle was corked. NR (flawed) -
1999 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
A dark brooding wine that probably could have benefitted from more time and/or air. Ponderous notes of dark chocolate, toffee, plum, black currant, and wet soil. Impressive for its scale and concentration nonetheless. (89 pts.) -
2005 Germano Angelo Barolo Vigna Rue - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From a magnum. Tightly-wound and slightly-muted notes of wet soil, wet moss, tar, rose petals, and black tea. Finishes with a touch of flint and dried cranberries. (90 pts.)
Fourth Course
branzino / leeks / field mushrooms / rutabaga purée / mâche
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2001 Germano Angelo Barolo Mont d’Oca Dardi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From a magnum. Black currants, tar, wet soil, toffee, licorice and crushed granite. Firmly structured but extremely well balanced. Touch of dried cranberries and sweet tobacco on the finish. This wine is definitely a keeper. (92 pts.) -
2004 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From a magnum. One of the purest expressions of 04 Barolos I have tasted to date, a harmonious convergence of rigorously traditional winemaking and a fantastic vintage. Sexy yet structured with unadulterated notes of ripe plums, black cherries, licorice, truffle, and forest floor that end with sweet tobacco and dried cherries. A wine to seek out and cherish, for it will only get better. Tied for WOTN. 94+ points. (94 pts.)
Fifth Course
pork belly / celery root / brussels sprouts / kumquat + bacon + pistachio relish, or
grilled hanger steak / shelling beans / red boars kale / garlic confit / hen egg s.s.u
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1985 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Fascinating and exotic, this wine displays notes of kumquat, citrus rind, red plums, raw meat, and Asian pickled plums. Rustic yet pure with a juicy midpalate and mineral-laden finish. A delicious wine that captivates both the mind and the senses. (92 pts.) -
1998 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Notes of raw meat, black olives, black plums, creosote, and pink peppercorns. A very good wine in its own right that unfortunately got overshadowed by some of the other wines at the table. Better with the hangar steak than the pork belly. 87-88 points. (87 pts.) -
1999 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
This is another wine that leading me down the rabbit hole that is Burgundy. Piercing notes black cherries, crushed raspberries, wild mushrooms, and wet stones. Laced with game on the midpalate with a clean yet robust burst of fruit on the finish. A complete wine in every way. Delicious and very memorable. Tied for WOTN. (94 pts.) -
2007 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
The level of concentration is almost new world here. While still exhibiting some of its oak, this muscular wine boasts gamey notes of black cherry, forest floor, wood smoke, black plums, smoked meats. Earthy and persistent on the palate with impressive depth. (90 pts.)