TNs: Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico Present "Gran Selezione" - I'm not all that impressed

Catching up on old events this week. This one was back in June in Toronto. Not super impressed with the category at this point.

For the more information and background see my blog post:
http://thewinenerds.ca/consorzio-vino-chianti-classico-present-gran-selezione/

Tasting Notes:

  • 2009 Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Prune, raisin, dark fruit, clean, good hit of oak. Palate replays the slightly overripe notes. Firm dusty tannin, clipped finish. Overly sweet, missing the sour cherry notes I prefer in Chianti. Modern styled. Not for me. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Capannino - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Strong effort from the traditionally leaning Bibbiano. Very pretty, attractive nose. Nebbiolo like. Dried florals, red fruited, strawberry, cherry, black tea leaves, tar, pot pourri. A more traditional expression. Savoury palate, though it also shows a little purple licorice edge which I don’t always love. Firm tannin but I’m missing acid considering this is chianti. (89 pts.)
  • 2010 Marchesi Mazzei Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Fonterutoli - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Off the bat there is a good hit of new oak on this, but I think it Just needs some time to integrate. Also on the nose: violets, mostly red fruit and tar. Elevated alcohol is perceived. Sweet entry to the palate, with a strong cherry flesh impression. Sweet tannin. Medium finish. Good wine. Middle of the road stylistically with some nice traditional elements present. I do question the QPR though. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sergio Zingarelli - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    I found this to be solidly in the modern spectrum. Nose and palate is driven on candy and licorice notes. Thin. Alcohol is perceived as high. I don’t care much for this style. (85 pts.)
  • 2010 Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ducale Oro - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    The nose on this is showing quite light and tight. Closed aromatically. Sadly the palate came across as dilute and bitter with some alcohol burn noted. The only redeeming factor was some deep dark fruit that was somewhat pleasant. (86 pts.)
  • 2010 San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Cellole - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Not much to say on this except that it had a very strong stewed component. It also came across very dark in appearance and aromatics, overripe and also a touch musty. A pass for me. (83 pts.)
  • 2010 Castello d’Albola Chianti Classico Il Solatio Gran Selezione - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    In the basement with some of my least favourite of the day. Off the bat the nose is very confected, with cloyingly sweet red cherry candy fruit. Also a vanilla extract note that detracts rathers than complements. Quite light in colour, which I would usually like, but in this case not so much. Palate is even worse leaving a fake cherry candy and cough syrup impression. (80 pts.)
  • 2010 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Puro Casanova - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Much more in the style I appreciate, though if maybe a tad simple. Nose is of tar, roasted meat, raspberry, red cherry and hints of leather. This falters just a bit on the palate with the finish coming across as somewhat short, tart and bitter. (89 pts.)
  • 2010 Colle Bereto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    This wine had the most mature nose of this event. Not one to wait a whole lot longer on. Ready to roll now. Nose is of sundried tomato, brown spice, cranberry and pomegranate. Not powerful, but a more subtle style. Palate is nicely sour, but also just a little hot on the finish. An interesting, even intriguing style, but I’m certainly not over the moon for it. (89 pts.)
  • 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Today this is coming across as tight and quite simple. On the nose: earth, a little sundried tomato, oak, alcohol and dark berries. Palate provides an element of sweet dark fruit then huge drying oak tannin. The finish really shows the oak with sawdust and coffee grinds and is medium minus in length. Maybe time will help this, but I’m not holding my breath to find out. (88 pts.)
  • 2010 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
    Despite being a Chianti event, I saw a bottle of this stashed away under the table and asked for a pour. This, while obviously quite young is showing great potential. Pours inky dark and similarly replays loads of dark fruit on the nose with some very luxurious high quality oak. Also on the nose: plum, chalk, tea leaves and herbs. Somewhat Bordeaux like even at this young age. Rich palate with round plummy fruit and a long finish. 92++. Too young to drink today but has huge potential. In need of some serious cellaring. I suppose that my only qualm with this is the lack of sangiovese character. It has much more of a bordeaux varietal feel, though perhaps age will transform it. (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    This wine reveals some very nice tart red fruit (red cherry, rasapberry, red plum), toast, herbs and dusty leathery notes. Not hugely expressive today but still a style I like and you can tell this is on a nice trajectory. Palate is very nicely savoury, lean and light. Medium plus finish of read fruit and herbs. The only unfortunate thing here is the QPR. It lands in Ontario for $200 and based on what I tasted I can’t see it justifying the price. (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledila - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Nose of cherry syrup, candy floss and licorice. Quite confected to my palate. Licorice on the palate with a medium length finish. Not my style, but I’m not really tolerant of candied and licorice notes. (86 pts.)
  • 2010 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Better, coming across as a tad more traditional and earthy. Oddly this is the bottling with Cab and Merlot in it! Nose of leather, mixed red and dark berries. Palate has pleasant sweet fruit. Finish is medium in length. Overall good, but a tad ordinary. (88 pts.)
  • 2010 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Nose of mixed flavours of hard candy and licorice. Thin palate. Very generic fee to this. Really no sense of place at all. Could come from anywhere. Boring and a style I don’t care much for. (84 pts.)
  • 2010 Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sassello - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    This was a pleasant surprise with a nice nose of coffee, earth, sweet cherries, red currant and cassis. Palate has hard tannin and unfortunately, some astringency. Not bad, though the nose certainly had more promise than the palate. (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Vignole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Crespine - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    The lovely nose on this wine blasts classic sour and savoury cherry notes. Very classic style and quite brunello like, despite containing 10% Cabernet. Nose is of red fruit (red cherry red currant, red plum), saline, dusty leather, sun dried tomato and dry dusty earth. Palate displays a core of savoury red fruit and dusty leather notes. Lots of sour acid and firm tannin, which are both are a plus in my books. Nice medium plus finish. True to the heart of Chianti. (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Monna Lisa - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    The most modern wine of the day. Nose is entirely of Twizzlers and Kool Aid. Awful. Pass. (78 pts.)
  • 2010 Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Lamole - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    A very savoury, rustic, seductive nose. Sour cherries, farmyard, earth, leather, tobacco, roasted chestnuts and light roast coffee. Certainly a bit of Brett, but not offensively so. Palate has good acid/tannin balance. With notes of soil and light roast coffee replaying on the long finish. (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Panzano - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Similarly rustic, but this is marred by some reduction. Nose of chalk, dust, musty attic, rubber, cherries and plum. Palate is ripe, clean, and lightly rubbery. Medium finish. Still good texturally with good acid/tannin balance. (88 pts.)
  • 2011 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Bellezza Gran Selezione - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Another one hanging out in basement of one of my least favourite of the day. Nose of confectioners sugar, coconut, vanilla, candy, whipping cream. A banana split in your glass. Palate delivers the same. 14.5% is clearly apparent. Yikes! Avoid. (80 pts.)

Nice notes. Gran Selezine is largely meaningless. All it really does is guarantee estate grapes. Many wineries already did this. 2010s are tight. I’ve had some lovely CCRs from this vintage. Villa Cerna and Volpaia come immediately to mind.

I think the whole Gran Selezione thing is just an effort to charge more and take some of the high end market from Brunello. I agree that 2010s do seem difficult to assess right now, though. Thanks for the notes.

When I buy a wine from Chianti, it’s only from a select list of traditional producers, or if someone who shares a similar palate to me makes a strong recommendation. I’m wondering if I just hadn’t realized the extent to which many Chianti Classico producers are making wines I hate.

I totally agree, this is an effort to try to steal the high end market. I think anyone wine-knowledgeable will realize it’s meaningless.

Excellent report, Chris; that’s really a lot of wines to have tasted through.

I like Felsina a great deal but I’ve never heard of a Colonia bottling; “It lands in Ontario for $200”; is that CAD, and is that the case price (surely not per bottle!)?

OK, I googled the Colonia and I see that the bottle price is in that territory. Yikes!

Yes, I was told per bottle. Nice wine but I was quite shocked to learn the price.

Felsina is selling a $200 Chianti?! Holy crap!

Well, I think that’s 200 Canadian dollars; looking it up, I saw U.S. prices from around $150 per bottle and up. So, yes, holy crap! And WTF!?!?

That will NEVER sell and is ludicrous. The again, Ama sells…

Based on what I tasted it’s not even close to worth the tariff.

In what market is $200 CD or $180 USD for a Chianti even a factor? You put this on a wine list at $350 and most people would look at this and laugh. It’s difficult to sell a $40 USD Chianti right now.

My experience with tastings sponsored by the regional trade associations of Europe has been pretty consistently disappointing. You have some good producers in this list, but I think what’s offered at those events is often precisely what is struggling in the market. Often that’s because they’re mediocre. In this case it might be the prices – or both.

John,

In general you might be right, but I’ve been to two top class regional trade tastings in recent years: A few years age, Alsace at the French Embassy, and last year Alto Adige at a D.C. hotel. Both featured top producers who all brought and poured a broad selection of their wines.