Pappas Bros Steakhouse in Houston hosted a terrific Williams Selyem tasting last Friday. Mostly wines from 1993-1997, with a trio of 2006s thrown in. A strong showing. Perhaps no earth-shattering wines, but these were classy, delicious efforts, and it was a pleasure to drink them. It was also instructive to have three wines from each vineyard, allowing you to see the aging potential and the different stages of development the vineyards were capable of.
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1993 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Fully mature, with a light red color and plenty of bricking around the rim of the glass. Aromatic nose, with a still-vibrant streak of red cherry fruit on the nose, along with flowers and mushrooms. Unmistakably Allen Vineyard and Russian River Valley. In the mouth, still alive but fully resolved. Light cherry, dried flowers, spice, and mushrooms on the palate. The acidity is still kicking, putting the wine just slightly out of balance. Finish fades. A- -
1995 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
This was the star of the three Allen Pinots on this night. Lively and beautiful, with a fresh and intoxicating nose of red cherry, flowers, and mushrooms, with a great spice component. In the mouth, showing plenty of flesh, with loads of complexity. Great texture in the mouth, with refreshing acidity. Very long finish emphasizing the fruit with powerful undertones of earth. A -
1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Not the best bottle of this wine I’ve had. This had flavors and aromas that felt slightly muddied. There wasn’t taint of any kind. Just not the cleanest bottle. Riper nose of red and black cherry, with plenty of spice and earth. In the mouth, the acidity stuck out as a bit disjointed. There was plenty of fruit, but the earthy notes didn’t quite play in full harmony. Excellent, to be sure, but this can be better. A- -
1993 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Olivet Lane - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Very pretty wine here. Brick color. Gorgeously floral nose, with mushrooms, and dried cherry fruit in the background. In the mouth, velvety and light, with terrific balance. The red cherry is surrounded by forest floor and mushroom notes. The acidity is still here, and the finish is gentle. Perhaps lacking some concentration, but this has held up quite well. A- -
1995 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Olivet Lane - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
The star of the Olivet Lane flight for sure. Light red color. Fantastic nose of pure red cherry, baking spice, flowers, and minerals. In the mouth, the red cherry just sang, with tremendous complexity backing it up. The texture was plush and velvety, just caressing the palate, while the acidity still gave it kick. Long and beautiful finish. A beautiful, elegant, powerful wine that had terrific persistence. A -
1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Olivet Lane - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Shocking that this is 14.9% alcohol. For the most part, it doesn’t seem like it. Still a youthful wine, with a vigorous red cherry color. On the nose, black and red cherry fruit, along with baking spice and minerals. In the mouth, you can sense the ripeness in the palate presence. It is lush and round, with an almost jammy quality to the fruit. The complexity is still quite primary, and the acidity gives a nice punch of refreshment and keeps the wine from being flabby. On the finish, however, the flavors fade a bit too quickly and a flabby note comes in a bit from the alcohol. B+ -
1995 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Rochioli - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Classy, refined wine, showing its pedigree in spades. Darker fruit profile than the Allen or Olivet wines, with black cherry, spice, and rich earth. In the mouth, a textural delight, with a great velvety feel. Black cherry, flowers, spice, and earth burst across the palate, with refined acidity and a long, graceful finish that expands as it goes on. A -
1996 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Rochioli - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Not a standout by any means. This seemed disjointed and a bit hollow. A touch overripe on the nose, it seemed, and throwing off very little complexity. Not muted in the mouth, but just monolithic. Fairly pedestrian. B -
1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Rochioli - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Delicious, a step up from the 1997, but not quite to the level of the 1995. Lovely nose of red and black cherry, baking spice, and flowers. In the mouth, caressing and refined, with great power behind it. Confidently rolls across the palate, with expansive fruit, excellent complexity, bright acidity, and a confident finish. Really excellent. A-/A -
1995 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Riverblock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Starting to hit that fully mature stage. A light red color. Pretty nose of red cherry, black cherry, tea, and mushrooms. In the mouth, beautiful texture but showing just a touch of dryness. Plenty of fruit, with lovely complexity. Lots of earth and spice here. Good acidity. Solid finish. Very pretty and balanced. A- -
1996 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Riverblock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Like the Rochioli Vineyard from 1996, this was less impressive. Nothing wrong with it. Just not as endearing in flavor or texture as the rest of this impressive lineup. Good black cherry, less emphasis on complexity. Somewhat simple. Very drinkable, but you expect more from this wine. B+ -
1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Riverblock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
Really quite delicious, this seemed youthful and almost closed up still. Black cherry color. Black cherry, spice, and earth on the nose. In the mouth, seems a bit tight. There’s generous fruit and spice to it, with a lovely floral and earthy edge, but the wine has a kind of unruly, youthful streak to it, as if it’s still a bit untamed. It’s balanced and concentrated, but it’s like this bottle still needs to harness its power. A- -
2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/19/2010)
Really not fair to have this wine tossed into such a powerhouse lineup. It shows that it’s more simple, but the purity and class are there. Black cherry, oak, and earth on the nose. All those flavors are delivered on the palate nicely, with great mouth feel and bright acidity. Solid finish. B+ -
2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Vista Verde - USA, California, Central Coast, San Benito County (2/19/2010)
Showing a bit funky and very youthful in this lineup. Black cherry and blackberry on the nose, with a bit of funk and plenty of oak. In the mouth, youthful and lively, with earthy lack cherry fruit, forest floor, bright acidity, and a solid finish that still shows some oak. B+
[*]2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (2/19/2010)
This is showing beautifully, a real star among the recent wines. Beautiful nose of red and black cherry, baking spice, and minerals. In the mouth, racy and open, with terrific cherry pie fruit, a pleasant spice component, and racy acidity. Strong finish. This is really beautiful. A-
Posted from CellarTracker
Then to cap off the night, we had to have some dinner. So we drank this with it:
[]1990 Faiveley Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (2/19/2010)
This is still so young, but it’s very pretty, living up to its pedigree and the vintage. Initially reticent nose that opened up to reveal pretty red cherry, minerals, flowers, and deep earth notes. In the mouth, incredibly youthful, with loads of life in it, velvety mouth feel, and great purity. This is a very masculine Burgundy, with power behind the red fruit profile, loads of spice, forest floor, and minerality. The acidity is powerful, too. And the tannins are still flexing a bit on the finish. This has years and years ahead of it. Delicious and very pleasant, if still somewhat tightly wound. It’s a more traditionally styled wine. A-
[]1992 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley (2/19/2010)
From magnum. Decanted one hour prior to serving. This is positively gorgeous. Dark red-purple color. So youthful and so classy. Nose of black currant, cedar, tobacco, and earth. In the mouth, a plush, velvety texture with great concentration that coats your palate. Generous fruit in the mouth, but there is so much going on in this wine. The complexity dances all around your tongue. Good acidity. But it is the finish that just won’t quit, unfolding layer after layer and sailing on. This was a beautiful bottle of wine. A
Posted from CellarTracker
Life is good.
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