My Burgundy friends got together for the first time in a long time to check in on some 78s from Batard-Montrachet and Montrachet itself.
Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange Batard-Montrachet - Really fine intensity, and a bright streak of acidity despite the wine’s age. The was an excellent start. Meyer lemon, lime, honey and nut oil flavors. A linear example of Batard.
Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet - Much more round and rich than the former wine. More lush and tropical. Golden fruit, and flavors of butter dripped on top of a perfect croissant. Fine cut herbs in the nose,
On to Montrachet!
Domaine Delagrange-Bachelet Le Montrachet - Much more golden and oxidative than the preceding wines. This was at that point in a White Burgundy’s life cycle that it can bounce back from this state, and with time in the glass the oxidation faded. Tropical fruit, apricot and melon. Round and mouthfilling.
Andre Ramonet Montrachet - Pretty much perfect. A totally complete and ravishing experience. A wine of great intensity, elegance and balance. One occasionally hears Romanée-Conti described as “spherical.” This is the white wine equivalent. Every component is in place and in harmony. Pear, peach, quince, nuts and herbs. Lovely.
It was interesting to see the difference in labels, with the Montrachet not carrying the Domaine name. We meant to do a little research that night - my guess was that it was the same kind of situation as Dujac had in 05 with some of their new vineyard purchases not being labeled as Domaine wines, but if anyone knows the story, I’d love to pass it on.
DRC Montrachet - Oh my God, was this the greatest Jura wine ever made? Nope. Just a too-oxidized DRC Montrachet. You could sense the now-faded greatness of the wine, but it poured deep gold, and unlike the Delagrange-Bachelet, it wasn’t coming back. The lone disappointment of the night, as DRC vs. Ramonet is a fascinating side-by-side.
Latour Montrachet - Back on track. While not in the Ramonet’s league, it was an exquisite wine, with delicious depths. Apricot and marshmallow.
1992 Remoissenet Montrachet - Seemed painfully “young” in comparison to its older companions, but a strong showing. Some interesting flavors that reminded me as much of Riesling as it did White Burgundy - almost like a mix of 20% Dry Rheingau and 80% Grand Cru Burg.
Just because, there were two 375ml d’Yquems to wrap up the night - the 88 and the 75, which was the only great 70s vintage I hadn’t tried. The 88 was excellent, but the the 75, from what was a less than perfect bottle, was easily the class of the two.