It was a very happy event to catch up with Joe Davis in Houston last week. Always a great and knowledgeable person to visit with, he overcame a leaking gas tank in his rental car. The restaurant didn’t blow up. The fire department and police had to show up, though, to keep us in check. Well, or the rental car from exploding. Something like that. Fun night. Thanks, Joe.
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1996 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Riverblock Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (1/13/2010)
13.9% alcohol. Absolutely stunning. Pure red cherry color. The nose took a while to hit full stride, but it opened up to reveal a gorgeous wine, filled with black cherry, mushrooms, baking spice, flowers, and minerals. In the mouth, elegant, concentrated, and so lovely, with amazingly juicy and pure fruit. Loads of complexity come to the fore after the initial fruit push. Still lively acidity and a profound finish. This is just delightful. A real treat. A -
1999 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (1/13/2010)
13.0% alcohol. Dark red color. Sumptuous nose with red and black cherry, earth, spice, and flowers, with a distinct masculine, almost iron-like note. In the mouth, doesn’t quite deliver the purity and excellence of the nose. Nevertheless a textural delight that is plush, refined, and balanced impeccably. Velvety and smooth, with enough richness. Solid acidity but no hard edges. Solid finish. A- -
2002 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (1/13/2010)
Drinking beautifully. Pretty red cherry and cranberry nose, with a lovely floral element. In the mouth, refined and elegant, unfolding earth-laced cherry and cranberry fruit. Solid acidity and a solid finish. Very pleasant, drinkable, and pure. A- -
2002 Joseph Swan Vineyards Pinot Noir Saralee’s Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (1/13/2010)
14.0% alcohol. Gorgeous nose of red cherry, tea, flowers, and baking spice. In the mouth, generous and pure in its fruit expression, starting to take on a slight mushroom note. Showcases excellent complexity. The acidity is a touch disjointed on this bottle, but it’s delicious nonetheless. A- -
2005 Arcadian Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (1/13/2010)
This has drunk well from its youngest days, and it continues to do so now. Beautiful nose of black cherry, flowers, earth, and minerals. In the mouth, plush and already with a gorgeous mouth feel. Balanced, elegant, and pure, with juicy fruit and tiers of complexity. Strong acidity and a long finish. This is drinking well, but you can see it’s barely showing its best stuff. A- -
2006 Dain Wines Pinot Noir Savage Juliet - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (1/13/2010)
Black cherry color. Pretty nose of blackberry, black cherry, spice, and a touch of funk. In the mouth, quite plush but focused and retaining a somewhat lean sensibility. Pure fruit, with good structure behind it and solid complexity. Just as endearing on the finish. A- -
2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (1/13/2010)
A baby but showing its outstanding potential. Vigorous swirling brought out pretty floral, red cherry, and spice notes. In the mouth, tight but linear and focused, with strong concentration and lovely mouth feel. Pure expression of cherry fruit, with somewhat tight complexity. Bright acidity. Outstanding finish. This will improve for some time. A- -
2006 Saxum James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (1/13/2010)
16.6% alcohol. Oak and ripe fruit on the nose. In the mouth, plush and slightly port-like. Loads of fruit. A bit flabby because the acidity doesn’t kick in as it needs to. Hot finish. B -
2007 Copain Syrah Tous Ensemble - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (1/13/2010)
Positively rocking on this night. Double-decanted two hours prior to serving. Excellent nose of blueberry and meaty notes. In the mouth, quite structured, but with creamy blueberry fruit, flowers, and meat notes. Strong acidity and notable tannic grip. A fantastic QPR. A-
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