Great catch-up with some wine friends that I’ve known for the longest, which was the only reason why I turned up for a natural theme (with something very on theme in hand).
-
2019 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Côtes du Jura La Gravière - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Cloudy in colour. Slightly woolly with slight honey and kumquat notes reminiscent of a Chenin. Balanced without any trace of heat despite the warm vintage. Delicious despite not being the most intellectual Ganevat, had plenty of character. (92 pts.) -
2018 Jean-Pierre Robinot (L’Opera des Vins) Jasnières Lumière de Silex - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières
My contribution. Almost orange in colour, the acidity dominated as I find quite often the case in natural wines. Dark honey with some toffee notes. Not usually my style but I enjoyed how it evolved and the intensity. Interesting and complex in a good way, liked the depth of this. (92 pts.) -
2019 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Blagny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
New-school style with reductive notes and ripe fruit. Slightly sweet with more than a hint of alcohol, but still had good acidity. Guessed 2019/2020 Burgundy from a good producer. Should have more Jobard in my cellar. (91 pts.) -
2014 Kabaj Rebula - Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
According to the person who brought this, tannins had resolved compared to a couple of years ago. Not as structured and natural as the Radikon so wasn’t as offensive, but also less memorable. Paired well with food. (90 pts.) -
2012 Radikon Jakot - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
This was quite offensive but marginally palatable with food. Lots of honey, olive and fig notes, felt like a sweet kombucha. The structure and nutty notes on the palate made it a good match with food. Found it more interesting and resolved on the second day. (91 pts.) -
2018 Azienda Agricola Valentini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
Surprisingly approachable and enjoyable at this stage. Notes of rose, copper and elegant raspberry fruit. Not as backward as previous vintages that I’ve tried but also less potential in my opinion. Still my favourite of the night. (93 pts.) -
2013 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée 3.14 - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Obviously a Bojo, the bubblegum notes made it clear that the wine underwent carbonic macération but the nose was floral and tart rather than jammy. Became more 3.14-like with air as the wine gained weight and structure; the gorgeous, dark cherry fruit began to sing. Great balance between intensity and elegance. (92 pts.) -
2020 Comando G Las Iruelas - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid
Everyone guessed Jura red for this, thought this was one of the out-there makers like Bornard. Anaemic and artificial red fruit with jarring acidity and sweetness. These wines have consistently shown themselves to be truly emperor’s new clothes. (70 pts.)
CHAMPAGNES AT CHAOSHAN - (26/9/2023)
-
2018 Cazé-Thibaut Champagne Jossias Rosé - France, Champagne
My contribution. Zero dosage, 100% Pinot Noir. Deep red in colour, similarly structured and serious on the palate but not too strict unlike a lot of zero dosage champagnes. Quite vinous with few bubbles. Blackcurrant and fresh strawberry notes, still quite primary and has a lot of potential to age. First time trying this producer and very impressed. (92 pts.) -
2011 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Haute-Lemblé - France, Champagne
At a better stage of development than two years ago while still retaining its freshness. Sweet and ripe, slightly exotic fruit still predominant. Balanced and rich for the vintage but just missing the incisiveness of better years. (93 pts.) -
2012 François Bedel & Fils Jouvence - France
Never have been the biggest fan of this producer and was shocked when I saw the price tag of this. Thought it was a Chardonnay-dominant blend because of the strictness and green apple and pear fruit, while being a little too ripe and sweet at the same time. Very much lacking in refinement, especially with the coarse bubbles. (85 pts.)
