JASON’S BIRTHDAY - (26/4/2024)
Open theme of >15 years wines that threw up a surprising number of Rhones
- 1991 Jean-Pierre Mugneret Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Lovely autumnal dark berries, excellent purity of fruit and structure such that I was guessing a strong vintage from the late ‘90s. Some smokiness that made me think northern Rhone, in fact the delicate fruit reminded me of the Chave I had last year! Great wine - this producer’s ‘99 Vosne 1er was my epiphany Burgundy back in 2016. (94 pts.) - 1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Another silky, elegant wine but this was more easily identifiable as Burgundy. Tannins were a little more resolved than the ‘91 that came before; quite lush and sensual so I guessed Vosne. Put on more concentration and earthy soil notes with time to become more Gevrey-like. Agreed with someone who said Latricières is always the most ready out of old-school Faiveleys. (93 pts.) - 2001 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Unresolved oak on the nose and palate, tannins were astringent and drying that I thought it was a Nebbiolo. Dark, slightly spicy fruit that didn’t excite. Haven’t been impressed with Grivot from this era. (90 pts.) - 2002 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Sweet dark blueberry fruit that made me think ‘09 MSD, the vibrancy made it clear this was from a warm vintage. A more stern Chambolle that became more tannic and closed with air, opposite of the last time I had this when it took time to become open. From these two data points, seems like this wine is still in its infancy. (93 pts.) - 1993 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Clearly northern Rhone with spicy, strawberry and dark blackcurrant fruit. Superb purity and elegance that made me guess '99 Chave or Jamet. Wonderful balance and incredibly energetic for one of the worst vintages of the era, better than the previous ‘93 La Landonnes that I have had before. Standout WOTN for me. (95 pts.) - 2006 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Guessed an international northern Rhone international producer like Chapoutier - probably the most damning verdict that I can give. Too alcoholic and dense with impenetrable black fruit, and a bitter finish. Apparently this was opened since 7am in the morning before dinner! (85 pts.) - 2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cloudy colour with unacceptable levels of VA, jammy and candied nose with high acidity and sweetness. Guessed Jura red but when revealed that it wasn’t, could only be a Rayas stable wine. Similarly high alcohol levels to the Fonsalette that gave kirsch liquor notes, but the complete opposite in terms of structure. (87 pts.) - 2000 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
The savoury, smoky bell pepper notes made it obvious that this was another northern Rhone, guessed cool vintage Jamet or Allemand like '04. Pleasant and resolved, but lacked the oomph to be a top wine. (91 pts.) - 2008 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Brought for a friend. Burgundian nose but palate was a little tannic and alcoholic than I would have liked, most guessed northern Rhone possibly because of the hint of herbaceousness. Became more elegant with air but still too much cherry kirsch and garrigue for me. Badly in need of more time. (92 pts.) - 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
My contribution. Vibrant ruby colour, so youthful that everyone was in the mid-00s. Actually was more approachable when I tasted on opening, but retreated into its shell after an hour. Unintegrated and incredibly brooding on the whole; unresolved oak, fruit cake notes, a wall of tannins and acidity. Crazy to think that a 25 year old wine is too young, but regret not keeping this for longer. - 1989 Château Magdelaine - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
My extra. Unfortunately cooked but showed some signs of life on the second day. NR (flawed) - 1989 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
Was quite sure this was new-world because of the minty/eucalyptus note but oscillated between US and Australia. Similar to the '89 Baron - remarkably youthful colour, very structured with drying, unresolved tannins that made it difficult to drink at first but softened with air. - 1989 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Resolved, sweet fruit that made me think that this was Italian but the Bordeaux pyrazines emerged with air. Had some mustiness that blew off, an approachable and charming wine that is on the gentle downslope. (90 pts.) - 2008 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba Superiore Funtanì - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba Superiore
Was sure this was a modern Supertuscan abomination but when revealed to be a Piedmont, I said this should be a producer that is to be avoided at all costs. Worse than a generic supermarket wine. (60 pts.)
- 1986 Château Magdelaine - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (28/4/2024)
A friend said that she has never been convinced by old Bordeaux and after a faulty bottle of a '89 Magdelaine on Friday, there was only one producer that I wanted to open. '86 is known to be a tannic vintage and I was surprised to find how approachable this was. Soft, plush red fruit with a velvety, sensual elegance. So precise and understated for a Bordeaux. Magdelaine is always a wine that you can drink endlessly. At its apex. (94 pts.) - 2020 Domaine de Saint Pierre Arbois Chateau Renard - France, Jura, Arbois (28/4/2024)
I was hesitating between Loire Chenin or a Macon Chardonnay, but in hindsight Jura Chard should have been the obvious guess. Slightly cloudy in colour, obviously natural but in a controlled way. Crisp green apple and orchard fruit, slight lactic note. Good tension and much more giving than the Labet today. (92 pts.) - 2018 Domaine Labet Chardonnay Les Champs Rouges - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (28/4/2024)
Clearly way too young but wanted to do a side-by-side with the Saint Pierre after a friend said she hasn’t tasted Labet before. Crystalline, zingy citrus fruit, but the acidity on this was enamel-stripping. Clearly a top quality wine, better than the 2019 Chalasse I tasted in France two weeks ago, but so taut and punishing at the moment. (92 pts.) - 2022 Pooley Pinot Noir - Australia, Tasmania (28/4/2024)
Syrah-like colour that made me think this was a recent warm vintage Burgundy, but was clearly a non-Burg Pinot after tasting it. Didn’t get any candied strawberry fruit so I guessed German Pinot. When revealed to be new-world it could only be a cool climate region so thought NZ. Surprisingly elegant given the colour, not much complexity but pleasurable enough to finish a glass of this. (89 pts.)
