WINE CULTURE TASTING WITH ARTHUR CLAIR - (8/2/2025)
Met Arthur briefly at the 2022 La Paulee in Singapore but glad to meet him in a more intimate setting where he could share more. He brought us through six 2022 wines, and said that it was one of the best vintages in recent times. In contrast, 2024 was a wipeout with even less yield than 1981. Nevertheless he will still be making separate cuvees, unlike some others that are declassifying or blending their 1er crus. He was thankful that 2023 was a bountiful vintage, but noted that it was not uniform as some areas like Marsannay saw reduced yields due to dryness.
The wines showed the Bruno Clair house style of delicate, pretty red fruit that I absolutely adore. Arthur shared that the wines have seen more gentle extraction and stem inclusion, which is a response to climate change as much as it being the in-vogue style. There was still a balance to be had since excessive stem inclusion could mean that freshness was at the expense of acidity. I also asked about the transition and the role of Philippe Brun, and Arthur said that the presence of Philippe was very helpful in the transition to him and Edouard. Really enjoyed the tasting, and looking forward to visiting the domaine in April.
[list][]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
Quite lifted with delicate, slightly sweet cherry fruit. More structure than the SLB and Vosne Champs Perdrix that came after. 30% new oak, usually needs more time than the Longeroies (a mix of 5 plots) which is more approachable.
[]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
First time tasting this cuvee, same soil and exposition as La Dominode (which is one of my favourite cuvees from the domaine with vines planted in 1902). Relatively younger vines planted in 1987, thought this was noticeably lighter with higher acid. Quaffable but not as much stuffing as the other wines on show.
[]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
I always have a soft spot for this wine and unsurprisingly it was my favourite of the line-up. Very pretty with silky tannins, but with an impressive structure underneath in an iron first velvet glove way. A barrel of Reignots used to go into this but since 2018 Arthur has bottled Reignots separately. Put my money where my mouth was and bought a bottle after (and got Arthur to sign it).
[]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Morey St. Denis En la Rue de Vergy - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
From a plot above Clos de Tart. My friends commented that this was a little sweet (which I agreed) so I asked for the leftovers from the previous session to taste. Quite saline and silky for a Morey, but with a bluer fruit tinge than the others in the line-up.
[]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos du Fonteny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Arthur described this wine which is situated near Ruchottes as the most Chambolle of his Gevrey plots. Did a comparison with the fresh pour and the leftovers from the previous session, again I preferred the glass which saw more air. Clearly Gevrey with earthy notes and more obvious tannins, but still retaining the house style of pretty red fruit. My second favourite of the line-up today.
[]2022 Domaine Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Again did a side by side of the fresh pour against the bottle from the previous session. Preferred the pop and pour this time - vibrant fruit behind a towering presence and serious complexity. Some hints of stemmy spice, clearly the most weight out of the wines today. The other glass that had seen more air unfortunately was shut as hell, which probably means this should be left alone for a while.
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- 2011 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (6/2/2025)
Wow I was stunned when I smelled this. Had no idea how a Bojo managed to have a knockout nose that reminded me of a Bizot; incredibly aromatic and lifted with stemmy spice and hints of potpourri and mocha. Palate was a slight letdown (also like the Bizots that I have experienced haha) with sour cherries dominating that might come across as thin to others. Still an incredible value at S$58 landed, definitely the best nose that I have seen at this price point. (92 pts.)
