Short summary:
Latour, classic. Haut Brion, a California vintage. Donnhoff, OMG, this shi’ite is killer for $25.
The details:
The 1988 Chateau Latour was impeccably stored, and on a short decant, was really quite wide open and approachable. This wine is at apogee in my humble opinion. A beautiful, warm, musky Bordeaux perfume, earth, forrest floor, pencil shavings, tobacco leaves and a mix of red and dark fruits. Really well structured, tannins evolved but the acid was medium high, giving this wine a refreshing presence on the palate, crisp, good lift. Tight red berries, some dark fruits of the crisp sort, starting to soften. Medium weight, medium finish. Fully evolved. A truly lovely, classic Bordeaux. Unmistakably Pauillac. (93 pts.)
The 2003 Haut Brion was admittedly a disappointment. A product of an obvious warm vintage, slightly roasted fruits, coffee and licorice on the nose. Lower acid, one dimensional on the palate. Darker range of fruits with some toast, cedar and tobacco. Medium finish. Nice, but not a First Growth in this year. Not built for the ages, seemingly evolved at present. Fascinating notes on CT, with some recent notes not reading as if the taster was high on the wine yet still scoring 94s and 95s. (89 pts.)
The 2013 Donnhoff Kabinett was just ridiculously good stuff. Started the night with a glass and ended with another glass. The acids and crispness of this wine, with lemon zest, peaches, stone and flint, just dancing on the tongue, was a wonderful finish. (91 pts.)
Over the course of the evening I had 3 glasses of the Latour, it stayed on point, refreshing, interesting. The Haut Brion got a little tiring, where my 3rd glass was almost out of guilt, not wanting to leave anything in the decanter. The Donnhoff, sheez, I think I could start at noon with this stuff.