TNs--01/03 Suduirait comparison + 04 Christoffel, 00 Pipeau

WINE TALK
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2004 Christoffel Riesling Urziger Wurtzgarten

I am mostly a Ries-o-phobe, especially of the sweeter style, but the Christoffel Urtzgarten, for whatever reason, has always been one of the few exceptions to that rule. This is great stuff, the scents of apple, even a bit of honey and only the barest whicker of petrol. On the tongue, sweet yellow apple and a definite dash of tangerine, but so light and airy and also with that lovely little zip of frizzante that I’ve seen with this wine before. Terrifically clean lines, it was hard to let others have some without taking a second glass.

2000 Chateau Pipeau

This is still not ready, folks. Sort of aggressive bouquet of toast, dried herbs and maybe some camphor, little fruit to be sniffed. Le gout starts with unripe blackcurrant and blackberry and lots of spice and some pepper, but as it interacts with air, some sweeter red berries and plums do poke through. Quite furry with tannins and a touch of game at the end. You’d be very safe to leave this to integrate further for another 5 years.

2001 Chateau Suduirait Sauternes

I had a little leftover from my dinner party on Saturday (4 days earlier) and it had been open for 2 days before that. With THAT much air time, NOW this is a wine to be reckoned with. Swoonfully glorious nose and palate of vanilla, nougat, marzipan, apricot, honey and light dusting of nutmeg. A glance of nuttiness at the back end, it now has opened up enough to show all the layers and point-and-counterpoint that it makes across your tongue and mouth. Exhilirating. My friend Tessa had some of this and physically shivered. I could have held a mouthful in my kisser all night and not have gotten bored at all.

2003 Chateau Suduirait Sauternes


I have nothing against this wine, don’t misunderstand. It comes at you with mango, pineapple, some papaya and good botrytis, and it isn’t totally thick to taste, with a bit of coconut and what I think is dragon fruit and a sense of cream to add to the aromatic replays. But understand—all of this is in a monotone–it’s all at one surface level and doesn’t go get you with any mystery. We all felt the 01 was a far better wine. This is good, but not soul-enriching. And it’s not just the difference in acidity. It’s a comment on the whole of the wine.

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I’m nearly alone in my enjoyment of '03 Sauternes. I understand the acidity is lacking, but I find that with Sauternes, the highly acidic vintages often take away from the reason I love Sauternes - the richness, the nuts and apricots, the pie crust, etc.

If only they were cheaper on the market, since they are so widely panned…I could buy them up!

3

I am in the boat of enjoying the 03’s as great wines, fun to drink early while the 2001’s sleep. Top 03 stickies can be found for $50 a full and 20-25ish a split.

I have also really been enjoying the 05’s as well. When the deals drop you can find 03/05 Rieussec, LTB, Suduiraut, LP and such for $50 a full.

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I do still like them, Todd, but I have found I’ve become remarkably selective. I still have enjoyed (if not drooled over) every bottle of Rieussec I’ve opened. The LTB is a wonderful wine in 03, showing best the character of the vintage. And the Sud is better than the majority and still a wine I did enjoy. But the 01s are on such a different level. The real problem with them is that almost all of them are sleeping now—witness that it took 6 days of a quarter-filled half-bottle for the wine to actually express itself properly.

Tyler, Climens is the class, and I do mean the class, of the 05s that I’ve tried so far (and I’ve had a look at most other than D’Yquem), in fact will be opening another of those this weekend…it’ll be in tough though against a 1989 D’Yquem :slight_smile:

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Todd, you’re not alone. I love the 03’s and have taken advantage of their perception problems by buying them up when I find fire sales. I bought several cases of Rieussec 1/2’s for something like $20/per and that’s a wine I like even more than the Suduiraut.

I just ignore everyone else because I know I really like them and that’s all that matters when I’m drinking the stuff.

Chris

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Great timed post. I am a Sauternes novice (at best) but had a big hole in my cellar so just picked up a couple 03 Suduirats, a couple 05 Doisy Daene and a 98 Rieussec for drinking purposes - knowing they all need some time. I think I paid 120 or so for the 5 which i think is decent compared to other French regions, not named. Great notes and comments (thanks) , and i am thinking i can go after the 98 and the 03s in a somewhat near future (probably hold one of them).

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03 hater here. The Sud is good but, not a fan of the LTB at all (I think Mike may know that [wow.gif] ). To me the magic is not the depth of the sweet fruit but, the balance between that and the absolutely (IMHO) necessary acidity and all but a very few 03s I have had just don’t got it.

To Brad Schier: Tossing my previous comment aside, try the 03s in your journey but, keep in mind they are atypical. Fiddle around with vintages in the Bordeaux stickie as you can find good ones in all the vintages and its been a while since there was a real crapper. Just my .02. Remember too, that you can find some decent wines from the nearby Monbazillac for a fraction of the cost.

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That Scott—all prim and proper and laced up, can’t appreciate a slutty wine like the 03 LTB [wow.gif]

For those who do need acid as an absolute necessity to enjoying their Sauternes, well, the Climens is the only 03 that can really offer that of those I’ve tried. I really like the LTB because it “accepts” what the 03 vintage was about and takes it to the max, as it were. But Scott is quite correct, the vintage as a whole is somewhat atypical, though very much in mind of the 1990s, especially as compared to 1988s.

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Hey Mike: I love the 01 Suidiraut, it rocks. Just know that lot’s of cheeseheads like a cloying vintage like 2003-Todd has it with his cheese curds before a Badger game, I know I do.
neener

But 2001 is built to last, better balanced imo. Don’t get me wrong, I have a few 2003’s and will drink them with pleasure earlier than later…but compared to the '01’s-no even close. I am also a big Rieussec fanatic.

Go KINGS. (Now Kovie free, free at last) hockey season is only a couple months away buddy, hang in there.

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Chris and Todd, cheers to you for drinking what you like!

Mike, you have summed up my opinion of 2003 vs 2001 perfectly. I purchased a number of 2003 Sauternes due to the lower prices on that vintage along with the good professional reviews. However, after sampling a few, I’ve determined that it is not something I want to hoard and cellar. While I’ve found them to be tasty enough, they just do not have that wow factor which I’ve found in better vintages. Even at the lower prices for 2003, I’d rather buy a tokaji or riesling instead.

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I’ve liked the 03 Sauternes I’ve had as well. I think the supposed lack of acidity is a bit over hyped. Its there, its just not as strong as 01 or other strong vintages. Now that the very forward fruit is relaxing they are drinking great IMO. The 01’s I have tasted seem extremely focused to me and are going to be at their best in the future. The fruit just doesn’t seem to be as open and vocal right now. I would bet on the 01’s being outstanding in the long term though.

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Nice post and some great comments. Slutty is a bit of a rich word for the 03’s - I’d prefer to say they are just not afraid to be naked (not quite the same thing). I like to drink them as a pudding in themselves, as L’Extravagance was designed to be.