It might be quite obvious to you guys by now, but we have these random blind tastings quite often here. Probably once a month or so.
Since usually you can expect to taste virtually anything in these tastings, it can be rather difficult to pinpoint any wines with absolute certainty - even wines you are as sure of as possible turn out to be something entirely different from what you expected.
So this was once again one of those kinds of tastings. Mainly pretty classic stuff, some slightly off-piste household names and a few curveballs. All in all a fun and challenging evening! Attending these events is a surefire way to stay humble when it comes to wine knowledge and blind tasting!
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2019 Windchaser Mourvèdre - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado (3.8.2022)
100% Mourvèdre made in a hands-off approach. Fermented spontaneously, aged in oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, translucent and rather dark pomegranate color. Sweet'n'spicy nose with aromas of peppery spice and something reminiscent of Pinosity, some sweet black cherry tones, a little bit of clove-driven Christmas spice, light raspberry juice nuances and a hint of cherry pits. The wine is clean, quite ripe and very fruit-forward on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of fresh black raspberries, some peppery notes, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light black cherry tones, sweet hints of Christmas spices and anise and a touch of earth. The structure relies almost entirely on the moderately high acidity as the tannins feel almost nonexistent. The finish is juicy, ripe and quite long with no noticeable tannic grip and fruit-driven flavors of ripe black raspberries and fresh cherries, some peppery tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light sweet notes of cloves and other Christmas spices and a touch of strawberry.
A nice, fresh and very fruit-forward wine. The wine was so atypical for the variety I thought this was a Pinot Noir; it's baffling to think this wine was made from the same variety as the stern, muscular wines of Bandol and big, chewy wines of Jumilla. I wonder if the wine was made with carbonic maceration? I didn't get any carbonic notes from here, but it would explain why I didn't get any Mourvèdre vibes either. All in all, a nice and really juicy little wine. Nothing too ambitious, just some enjoyable easy-drinking stuff. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at $30, though.
(86 points) -
2019 Karanika Cuvée Speciale Extra Brut - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (3.8.2022)
A blend of Xinomavro (90%) and Assyrtiko (10%) harvested between 6th and 21st of September 2019. Bottled in January 2020, disgorged in February 2022 by hand. 11,5% alcohol, dosage less than 3g/l. Tasted blind.
Pale whitish-yellow color. Sappy, fresh and subtly reduced nose with aromas of crunchy Granny Smith apple, some green herby tones with some birch leaf nuances, a little bit of grapefruit, light chalky mineral tones, a hint of leesy yeast, a touch of fresh white fruits and a flatulent whiff of reduction. The wine is dry, zippy and light-bodied on the palate with a crisp, balanced and quite persistent mousse along with fresh flavors of sappy herbal tones and crunchy green apples, some birch leaf tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light lemony nuances and a hint of saline minerality. Quite high in acidity. The finish is lively, fresh and palate-cleansing with a long, dry aftertaste of sharp green apple and lemony citrus fruit tones, some sappy birch leaf and herby tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light leesy notes of yeast, a hint of chalk dust and a touch of saline tang.
A sophisticated, fresh and palate-cleansing sparkling wine with a lot of verve and zip. Pleasant and refreshing stuff. Not unlike a young NV Blanc de Blancs from a cooler vintage. Perhaps a bit linear and delicate for now, but might pick up some depth and complexity with age. A good purchase at 17€. Nice!
(89 points) -
2020 Iliana Malihin Thrapsathiri - Greece, Crete, Rethymno (3.8.2022)
100% Thrapsathiri from Rethymno. Fermented spontaneously. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful yellow-green color. At first the nose feels heavily reduced with a rather pronounced sulfurous note of hard-boiled eggs. However, with some aeration, the nose clears up, revealing aromas of mango and plantain, some funky notes of brett, a little bit of nectarine, light phenolic nuances of smoke, a hint of leather saddle and a touch of rocky minerality. The overall feel is somewhat exotic, yet very fresh and precise at the same time. The wine feels ripe and broad yet fresh and firm at the same time with a medium body and quite intense flavors of freshly picked peaches and mangoes, some funky notes of bretty leather, a little bit of phenolic smoke, light skunky nuances of reduction, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of ripe green currants. Despite the funky and reductive overtones, the overall feel here is fresh, precise and structured - not in small part due to the zippy acidity. The finish is long, crisp and tangy with flavors of saline minerality and sappy herbal spice, some funky notes of leather, a little bit of gunpowder smoke, light zesty nuances of grapefruit, a sharp hint of Granny Smith apple and a sweeter touch of asserted tropical fruits.
A very nice, fresh and characterful Cretan white that is still very youthful and quite heavily reductive. The wine comes across as somewhat tightly-wound and it feels like it is built to last, so in all likelihood this wine was opened way too early. At least the overall feel is all about future promise and aging potential, so I'd happily leave the wine to age for another decade or so. It is very enjoyable already now, at least with a good deal of aeration, but I'd say this wine will need some time in a cellar before it reveals what it is truly made of. Solid value at approx. 20€.
(91 points) -
2021 Frank Cornelissen Susucaru Rosato - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane (3.8.2022)
According to Frank Cornelissen, Rusucaru Rosso is the wine formerly known as Contadino, but to me, Susucaru Rosato seems much more like what Contadino was - even if Contadino was a bit more like a red wine. Despite its name, Susucaru Rosato isn't a rosé, but more like a Spanish clarete, ie. a wine made with red and white grape varieties, co-fermented and macerated together. This is a blend of white Catarratto, Malvasia and Moscadella and red Nerello Mascalese, fermented spontaneously with a pied de cuve, macerated with the skins for 10 days and aged in epoxy tanks ranging from 2500 to 8000 liters. Bottled unfined with a light filtration and a minimal dose of SO2. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful and very slightly hazy pinkish raspberry red color. The nose feels fragrant, slightly reductive and subtly sauvage with aromas of wild strawberries, some fresh cherries, light mineral notes of wet stones, a little bit of volatile lift, a grappa-like hint of fusel alcohol and a salty touch of ocean air. The wine is juicy, youthful and balanced on the palate with a medium body and clean, youthful flavors of ripe raspberries and fresh cherries, some sweet red apples, a little bit of fresh white peach, light bitter notes of phenolic spice and a smoky hint of reduction. The structure relies only on the high acidity as there are no tannins to speak of. The finish is fresh, very ripe yet dry and quite palate-cleansing with a long aftertaste of wild strawberries, some spicy red apple, a little bit of crunchy white peach, a smoky volcanic hint of reduction and a touch of stony minerality.
A very lovely, clean and crunchy "rosé" that feels quite a bit more substantial than your regular, run-of-the-mill rosé wine. Just like the last time I tasted Susucaru Rosato blind, it was quite impossible to pinpoint it correctly to any place - first I thought it was a light red, like Poulsard, but when starting to think whether it was a rosé, all I could think was Tavel (too crisp and fresh for one) and Rose des Riceys (too ripe and sunny for this). Not a grand vin by any accounts, but still pretty lovely stuff - and very far removed from the cloudy, funky and very natty style of the early 2000's Cornelissen. Recommended for people who like their rosés with a bit of body and substance.
(90 points) -
2017 Ochota Barrels the green room - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale (3.8.2022)
A blend of Grenache (92%) and Syrah (8%) from a vineyard planted in 1946. 50% of the wine was fermented whole bunch, 40% destemmed and 10% entirely with carbonic maceration. The wine was macerated with the skins for 6 to 88 days, depending on the lot and based entirely by textural quality. After the fermentation the wine was aged for 2-ish months in used French oak barriques. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 11,8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Translucent, slightly hazy, moderately dark cherry-red color with a subtly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels fragrant, floral and zesty with fascinating aromas of orange blossom and chamomile, some wild strawberry tones, a little bit of brambly blackberry, light woody notes of old oak, crunchy hints of cranberries and crowberries, a lifted touch of VA and a whiff of lemon-scented hand soap. Lots of things going on here! The wine is lively and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and fresh, dry flavors of wild strawberries and tart cranberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light perfumed floral nuances, a woody hint of dry old oak and a savory touch of meaty umami. The structure relies mainly on the fresh and zippy acidity, even if the medium-minus tannins bring a little bit of firmness and grip to the palate. The finish is fresh, lively and quite clean with a little bit of tannic grip and a crunchy aftertaste of wild strawberries and tart cranberries, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of meaty umami, light floral notes of violets and orange blossom, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of brambly blackberry.
A very fresh, bright and eminently drinkable effort for an Australian Grenache. It feels like the wine was harvested when the Grenache grapes were barely ripe, yet still the wine doesn't come across as thin, weedy or dilute, but instead full of flavor and character. I have no idea how one can make a wine like this - stylistically closer to Cru Beaujolais or the red wines of Jura than anything you'd associate with new world Grenache - but if the end result is this delicious, I don't mind. This is not made to be a big or impressive wine, but instead a refreshing and versatile food wine that drinks really well on its own, too. I have no idea whether this will evolve into something even more interesting with age, but seeing how well the wine drinks right now, one really doesn't have to think about its cellaring potential. Priced more or less according to its quality at approx. 30€.
(91 points) -
2020 Iliana Malihin Liatiko - Greece, Crete, Rethymno (3.8.2022)
100% Liatiko from 40-50 yo vineyards planted at very high altitude (700-900 m). Fermented spontaneously. 50% of the wine was aged for 8 months in used large oak casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 15% alcohol, 0,35 g/l residual sugar, 4,95 g/l acidity, pH 3,5 and 20 mg/l total SO2. Bottle #294 of total 1365 bottles. Tasted blind.
Youthful, very deep and quite opaque dark ruby color. The nose feels sweet and fragrant with aromas of ripe black cherries, some meaty tones, a little bit of dark forest fruit, light floral notes of violets, a hint of stony minerality, a touch of blood and a whiff of plum liqueur. The wine feels ripe, broad and quite dense on the palate with a moderately full body and juicy, even somewhat concentrated flavors of sweet dark plums, some vague spicy tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, a brambly hint of black raspberry and a touch of floral lift. The high alcohol stays remarkably well out of the picture and the structure relies quite evenly on both the rather high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is slightly warm, persistent and quite tannic with a savory aftertaste of gravelly minerality, some juicy dark plums, a little bit of fresh cherry, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of earthy spice and a floral touch of violets.
A very impressive, concentrated and sinewy take on Liatiko with a lot of bold old-vine fruit. Typically this maligned grape variety makes soft, pale-colored wines with not much depth or character, whereas this particular wine feels like a polar opposite of every Liatiko known. This, on the other hand, is not lacking in color, structure, complexity or intensity in any way - only the high alcohol that is typical of Liatiko is the only thing that this wine seems to share with a run-of-the-mill version of this same grape variety. As Liatiko is not known to make serious, ageworthy reds, it's hard to assess whether this wine will be like any other, or if it will buck the trend - at least I'm getting a feel that this is a very young wine that is really built for the long haul and it will improve for many more years, even if it is pretty darn good already now. Excellent value at approx. 16€.
(93 points) -
2016 Sans Liege The Offering - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County (3.8.2022)
A blend of Grenache (48%), Syrah (32%), Mourvèdre (19%) and Viognier (1%), 75% destemmed and 25% in whole clusters. Aged for 22 months in larger puncheons (20% new, 17% used) and smaller barriques (5% new, 25% second use and 33% third use). 15,4% alcohol, 0,6 g/l residual sugar, 4,9 g/l acidity, pH 3,78 and 77 mg/l total SO2. Total production 98 barrels. Tasted blind.
Luminous, quite translucent ruby-red color with a slightly evolved brick-red rim. The nose feels ripe, rich and sweetly-fruited with dark-toned aromas of black cherries and juicy black raspberries, some licorice tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of boysenberry and a boozy whiff of alcohol. The wine is rich, textural and a bit hot on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of ripe dark berries and black cherries, some red licorice, a little bit of juicy strawberry, light brambly notes of fresh blackberries, a hint of peppery spice and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The wine is broad and silky smooth on the palate with balanced, medium-plus acidity and gentle, soft medium-minus tannins. The rather lengthy finish is rich, juicy and a bit hot with a little bit of gentle tannic grip and quite lush flavors of strawberries, some sweet dark plums, a little bit of peppery spice, light meaty notes, a hint of earth and a woody touch of old oak.
A big and quite voluptuous red wine that feels more or less like a Châteauneuf-du-Pape: the wine has breadth and substance, but it is also similarly high in alcohol with a rather soft structure and round overall feel. Although enjoyably rich, nuanced and not excessively modern or overdone in any way, I still had some problems with the wine: the alcohol seemed just way too high, making the wine feel a bit hot and boozy all the way from the nose to the aftertaste, and while the wine managed to come across as somewhat balanced, it still felt just way too soft for my preference. I understand if a wine predominantly made from Grenache can't be that high in acidity, but at least the other varieties could contribute a bit more to the tannic structure? This wine could've used a lot more firmness and grip than what it had. All in all, an enjoyable GSM, but just as it is with the most of CdPs, this was just way too ripe, big and alcoholic wine for my taste. Perhaps a bit on the pricey side at $29.
(87 points) -
2011 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon CĂ´te du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (3.8.2022)
100% whole-bunch fruit from organically grown 50-yo vineyards located in the CĂ´te du Py climat in Morgon. A week or two of carbonic maceration followed by a couple of weeks of spontaneous fermentation on the skins. Fermented and aged in concrete tanks, although in some years some barrel-aged wines can be blended in. Generally 2011 was regarded as a good, warm vintage in Beaujolais resulting in quite big but balanced wines showing great ripeness. Especially the wines from Morgon and Moulin-Ă -Vent were very successful. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Slightly translucent and somewhat evolved ruby-red color with brick-red highlights. At first the nose feels rather weird, meaty and funky, but it comes together nicely with some air, starting to exhibit slightly reticent aromas of wizened dark fruits, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of cherry pits and a hint of farmyard funk. The wine feels moderately ripe yet dry, a bit tough and light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with flavors of crunchy cranberries and brambly raspberries, some tart lingonberries, light tertiary notes of wizened dark fruits, a little bit of old leather, a hint of gravelly minerality and a funky touch of something animale. The high acidity makes the mouth water while the firm and still quite assertively grippy tannins make your gums feel dry and gritty. The finish is quite long, fresh and acid-driven with moderate tannic grip and nuanced flavors of tart lingonberries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of sanguine iron, light evolved notes of wizened dark berries, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of leather.
At first the wine was quite odd, even a bit skunky with some weird bottle funk, and not that enjoyable. However, all it needed was some breathing, because after awhile it had turned into a very classically built and even rather stern Morgon with good interplay of fresh berries and more evolved, wizened fruit flavors. The tannins were as tough and assertive as I remembered from my taste of this same wine in 2014, showing relatively little resolution in eight years. Good stuff and showing still some further aging potential. This is a great vintage and it is evolving in the right direction - one just needs to give the wine some proper aeration first!
(93 points) -
1994 Château Moulin de la Rose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (3.8.2022)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately evolved and somewhat translucent dark red color with a hint of brick-red hue. At first the nose reminds me quite a bit of red Musar with some age, thanks to its somewhat lifted notes of VA, but as the wine opens up, it settles down exhibiting aromas of wizened dark fruits, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of ethery VA, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a hint of dried red plums and a touch of old leather. All in all, pretty classic Bordealais nose. The wine is dry, firm and balanced on the palate with a medium body, silky texture and developed flavors of wizened dark berries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of juicy black cherry, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a tertiary hint of dried red plums and a touch of sous-bois. The overall feel is quite open-knit and relatively easy, thanks to the only medium-to-moderately high acidity and quite gentle, resolved tannins. The finish is juicy, developed and gently grippy with length, evolved flavors of wizened blackcurrants, some leathery tones, a little bit of blood, light lifted notes of ethery VA, a hint of sweet black cherry and a touch of earth.
A balanced, tasty and enjoyably developed Cru Bourgeois. However, this wine felt "just" nice, nothing particularly memorable - compared to the more structured 1996 vintage that we tasted earlier this year, coming across as otherwise quite similar, but showing more depth and intensity. This wine seemed like a decent and harmonious old claret, but nothing beyond that. Good, but not great.
(89 points) -
1998 Hardys Shiraz Eileen Hardy - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale (3.8.2022)
100% Shiraz sourced from centenarian vines in McLaren Vale (78%), Padthaway (12%) and Clare Valley (10%). Fermented in open-top fermentors, basked pressed and then aged for 24 months in new (60%) and once used (40%) French oak barriques. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, dense and still remarkably youthful blackish-red color that permits very little light through. The nose feels ripe, sweet-toned and slightly meaty with bold and somewhat evolved aromas of wizened blackberries, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of chocolatey mocha oak, light raisiny tones, a hint of alcohol heat and a touch of evolved marmaladey fruit. The wine comes across as ripe, dense and chewy on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of juicy dark plums and blackberry marmalade, some peppered meaty tones, a little bit of savory umami, light sweet toasty oak tones, a hint of mocha coffee and a touch of raisiny fruit. The overall feel is quite impressively structured, thanks to the moderately high acidity and assertive, still relatively grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, savory and quite tannic with bold, moderately evolved flavors of wizened dark fruits, some peppery spice, a little bit of meaty umami, light toasty mocha oak tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of raisiny fruit.
A big, bold and still quite vibrant Aussie Shiraz. Based on the high alcohol, rather sweet-toned fruit and quite liberal use of new oak, I went to new world immediately. However, I was aiming at completely incorrect places, because at first I wondered if this was an aged Californian Meritage blend, then going for Argentinian Malbec with some age. Truth be told, I was positively surprised how the wine had evolved - I've always thought Eileen Hardy Shiraz is an over-oaked blockbuster and drinking it is akin to being crushed by a black hole, as their density is more or less at the same level. However, this wine had managed to lose some of that excess weight and also integrate some of that oak in the process. Sure, the wine is still quite huge and the new oak sticks out - but not like a sore thumb anymore. It's hard to say whether this wine can actually age long enough for all the oak to integrate fully with the fruit, but at least drinking this wine wasn't a chore, unlike with younger vintages of this same label. It's safe to say 25 years of aging is not enough to make all that obfuscating oak to go away, but at least the wine is capable of turning out quite OK.
(90 points) -
1990 Château Les Ormes de Pez - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (3.8.2022)
The indicative blend here is Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and a tiny bit of Petit Verdot. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite deep, somewhat evolved and slightly translucent dried-blood color. Evolved, sweetly-fruited and seductively complex nose with fine-tuned aromas of wizened dark fruits, some raisiny tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light balsamic tones, a cedar hint of cigar box and a touch of ripe blackcurrants. The wine feels ripe, evolved and textural on the palate with a moderately full body and complex, savory flavors of wizened dark fruits, leather, some autumnal leafy tones, a little bit of licorice root, light balsamic nuances, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of dry cedar wood. The bright, high acidity lends great sense of structure to the wine, further supported by the firm medium tannins. The finish is long, evolved and gently grippy with a complex aftertaste of wizened black cherries, some bloody tones, a little bit of balsamic richness, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a woody hint of cedar and a touch of cassis.
A beautiful, harmonious and thoroughly classical 1990 claret. I had no idea which château this was, but it was obvious this was a left bank red with some age - however, that was pretty much as far as I could go; I ultimately suggested 1996 Saint Julien as a wild guess. What was remarkable here, though, was that the cork supposedly was completely soaked through and driving a corkscrew in was nigh impossible as it was so loose in the neck it was almost pushed in by the screw worm. The person who poured the wine to us said he believed the wine to be completely shot based on how poor condition the cork was in, but instead the wine turned out to be fantastic, not showing any signs of poor closure! I guess keeping the cork wet (and the foil keeping it in place) was simply enough to keep the wine in great condition. Anyways, this was a superb vintage of Ormes de Pez, showing terrific complexity and beautiful sense of harmony. I can see the wine keeping just fine for many years more, but it feels like the wine is quite close to its plateau of maturity, so further aging isn't really necessary.
(94 points) -
2014 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Nahesteiner - Germany, Nahe (3.8.2022)
12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, slightly evolved straw-yellow color. Crisp, fresh and lively nose with intense aromas of lemon, some chopped ginger, a little bit of steely minerality, light crunchy notes of sappy white fruits, a hint of Granny Smith apple and a touch of whitecurrant. The wine is very crisp, lean and quite tightly-wound on the palate with a medium body and very incisive flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light floral nuances of apple blossom, a hint of cool wet rocks and a touch of zesty pomelo. The bracing acidity lends an almost electric feel to the wine, making it very precise and structured. The finish is crisp, long and lively with mouth-cleansing flavors of lemony citrus fruits and apple peel bitterness, some floral notes of apple blossom and other white flowers, a little bit of steely minerality, light crunchy nuances of whitecurrants and a hint of sappy herbal character.
A wonderfully crisp and racy but also still painfully young Nahe Riesling that shows tons of potential for future development, but - typical for a young dry Diel Riesling - is super high-strung at the moment. There is a lot of intense and even somewhat concentrated Riesling fruit here, but most of it still remains quite shut behind all the zippy acidity and a cool, cold surface of minerality. This was a very lovely effort - the combination of precise fruit, zippy acidity and incisive minerality really wakes one up, like an electric jolt - but I'd say this wine really calls for more age, just to let it unwind and resolve some more. Excellent stuff, especially for a "mere" regional-level Riesling - although my score might be a bit reserved now as the wine doesn't feel that accessible yet. Despite its 8 years of age, this wine is still a youngster. Let it wait - this wine really rewards those, who can patiently wait.
(90 points) -
1978 Bodegas LĂłpez Casona LĂłpez - Argentina, Mendoza, MaipĂş (3.8.2022)
12,9% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, noticeably evolved and moderately translucent cherry-red color with a rusty maroon hue. The nose feels old, pungent and quite oxidative with aromas of raisins and some nuttiness, a little bit of beef jerky, light notes of soy sauce, a hint of syrupy sweetness and a touch of campfire smoke. The wine is aged, oxidative and subtly sweet-toned on the palate with a full body, silky texture and tertiary flavors of prunes and dried figs, some leathery notes, a little bit of beef jerky, light soy sauce tones, a smoky hint of sooty wood and a salty touch of nutty rancio. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the mouthfeel, as the very soft, fully resolved tannins don't contribute anything to the structure, only a little bit to the smooth texture. The finish is old, long and savory with quite tertiary flavors of meaty umami and beef jerky, some oxidative notes of soy sauce, light dried-fruit notes of prunes and raisins, a little bit of nutty rancio, a hint of blood and a touch of dried dates.
A still drinkable, but already very tertiary, old Argentinian red. This was the third time I tasted this wine over the last three years and this bottle was by far the most aged and oxidative of those. The wine has not completely fallen apart yet, meaning that the oxidative notes have not completely overrun the wine, but this is already quite far from the bottles I've tasted just a couple of years ago. I guess at this age there's just a lot of bottle variation. Unlike the bottle I tasted in 2020, which was still holding up very nicely, this wine was obviously sliding downhill. High time drinking these up. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 17€.
(84 points) -
2016 Do Re Mi Ojaleshi - Georgia, Kakheti (3.8.2022)
100% organically farmed Ojaleshi - a variety normally used for semi-sweet red wines. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in clay kvevris. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Quite deep, only slightly translucent and rather inky blackish-red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels savory and slightly dusty with aromas of crowberry-driven crunchy forest fruits, some earthy and even slightly inky tones, a little bit of blood, light sweeter notes of ripe black raspberries, a hint of something meaty, a touch of mushy, stewed herbs and a whiff of terracotta. The wine is dense, quite intense and somewhat angular on the palate with a medium body and clean, dry flavors of crunchy crowberries and chokeberries, slightly bitter notes of phenolic spice, some stemmy and woody nuances, a little bit of bloody meat, light dusty notes of terracotta, a hint of earth and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is very lean and a bit tough, thanks to the high acidity and grippy, assertive tannins. The finish is long, clean and tannic with a bone-dry aftertaste of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of phenolic spice, light smoky tones, a hint of astringent chokeberry and a stemmy touch of something vaguely woody or mulchy. The ample tannins make the wine end on a grippy note.
A very stern, somewhat austere and quite tough Georgian red that is not big or otherwise built to be impressive, yet still packs impressive amounts of intensity and structure. I guess this is just way too dry, angular and tannic for a palate that prefers modern, soft and fruity reds, but I loved the rusticity, unbridled intensity and very food-friendly structure here. Furthermore, I've understood this is a natural wine, which is remarkable, seeing how the wine was so clean and full of pure fruit - nothing natty going on here! It's hard to say whether the fruit here can outlive the tannic structure here, ie. I wonder if it is possible to soften the wine down with enough aging? The jury might still be out on that one, but as a firm and vibrant food wine, this is just excellent. All one needs to do, is remember to let the wine aerate, as it was quite closed and inexpressive upon opening. Good value at 75 GEL (approx. 24€). (93 points) -
2005 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (3.8.2022)
8,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep and quite intense yellow-green color. Sweet, somewhat evolved and beautifully complex nose which tells immediately that this wine is Riesling and nothing else; aromas of honeycomb and apple jam, some evolved notes of beeswax, a little bit of something spicy, light stony mineral nuances, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of tertiary nuttiness. The wine feels broad, oily and relatively gentle on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and medium-sweet flavors of apple jam and fruit cocktail, some honeyed tones, a little bit of ripe apricot, light stony mineral nuances, perhaps hints of botrytis with its nuances of beeswax and orange marmalade and a touch of exotic spices. The acidity feels quite high, making the wine come across as balanced, but still a bit low for a Riesling (especially a Dönnhoff), making the wine feel somewhat soft with all of its residual sugar. The finish is juicy, quite long and rather rich with medium-sweet flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some honeycomb, a little bit of apple jam, light stony mineral notes, evolved hints of beeswax and nuttiness and a touch of overripe white peach.
A quite delicious and harmonious Spätlese Riesling with great varietal typicity, except for the acidity, that came across as a bit modest for the style. The overall feel here was a bit on the soft and mellow side, so while the wine is thoroughly enjoyable with great evolved complexity, it felt a bit syrupy, lacking the brightness, cut and zip I value so highly in sweet styles of Riesling. This was a nice aged Spätlese that was in a good spot right now, but ultimately nothing too thrilling or memorable. Probably will keep just fine for many more years, but I have a feeling there's not going to be much further development here. Drink or keep.
(91 points) -
2005 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (3.8.2022)
8% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved, rather pale straw yellow color. The nose feels clean, fragrant and intensely fruity with focused aromas of lemon marmalade and ripe Golden Delicious apple, some peachy tones, a little bit of acacia honey, light petrolly notes, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of honeysuckle. The wine is clean, balanced and quite precise on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and rather intense medium-sweet flavors of ripe red apple, some sweet peachy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light freshly-pressed apple juice tones, a hint of greengage and a touch of petrol. The overall feel isn't that of a young wine, but the wine doesn't feel that evolved either. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine, although the sweetness from the residual sugar masks some of the acidic zip away. The finish is long, juicy and quite mineral with sweetish flavors of honey and ripe red apple, some steely mineral notes of gunmetal, a little bit of petrol, light juicy white peach tones, a hint of freshly-pressed apple juice and a touch of lemon marmalade.
A nice, fresh and sophisticated Spätlese Riesling that is starting to exhibit some evolved tones, yet doesn't feel that old yet. The difference between the more evolved 2005 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Spätlese was quite noticeable, although qualitatively the wines were pretty much on par with each other - Schäfer-Frölich taking a small leap ahead with its better freshness and sense of structure, coming from the higher level of acidity. Lovely stuff that is drinking really well now, but will improve for at least a handful of years more and keep just fine for years to come. Recommended.
(92 points) -
1997 Graham Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (3.8.2022)
The wine is a blend of traditional Port varieties harvested from the five renowned Symington Quintas (Quinta dos Malvedos, Quinta do Tua, Quinta das Lages and Quinta da Vila Velha in Cima Corgo and Quinta do Vale das Malhadas in Douro Superior). 20% alcohol, 4,6 g/l acidity. According to the producer, the wine's Baumé reading is 3,5 which translates to 65 g/l residual sugar - a number which sounds very odd and way too low for a Vintage Port. Tasted blind.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color with a subtly evolved dried-blood color. The nose is instantly recognizable as a Vintage Port with vibrant aromas of blueberries and boysenberries, somewhat noticeable alcohol heat, a little bit of perfumed, floral lift, light sooty notes, sweet hints of cherry marmalade and blackcurrant jam and an evolved touch of earthy spices. The overall impression is big and powerful, yet immensely attractive and fine-tuned. The wine feels rich, dense and sweet on the palate with a full body and very intense flavors of blackberry jam and overripe black cherries along with notes of savory, earthy spices and some dried figs, a little bit of boysenberry, light peppery tones, a hint of earth and a touch of plummy dark fruit. The overall feel is quite muscular, yet not too tightly-knit with the moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, sweet and grippy yet quite savory with a bold aftertaste of cherry marmalade and some dried figs, a little bit of boysenberry jam, light peppery tones, a little bit of earth, a mineral hint of sun-baked rocks and a touch of pouch tobacco. The high alcohol lends some obvious heat to the finish.
A very impressive, harmonious and voluptuous yet not fat Vintage Port that showcases perfectly that typical richness typical of Graham's, yet keeping the wine from coming across as soft or excessively sweet. This is definitely much fruitier and sweeter compared to Vintage Ports from the likes of Dow's or Taylor's, yet sporting enough freshness and structure to come across as firm and serious, not just hedonistic. I was immediately sure from the first sniff that this was a Vintage Port, but I did not dare to guess the house, just thought this might be a 1994 VP. Well, the style was correct, but the vintage wasn't. All in all, a superb effort that is drinking really well right now but will continue to evolve and improve for years more. Highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2000 JĂĽrgen Ellwanger Winterbacher Hungerberg Acolon Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, WĂĽrttemberg (3.8.2022)
11% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dense, fully opaque reddish-black color with a slightly evolved rusty-maroon hue. The nose feels dense, very sweet and slightly evolved with rich aromas of intensely raisiny dark fruit, some blackcurrant compote, a little bit of honey, light spicy and earthy notes, hints of prune juice and bilberry soup and a touch of cacao powder. The wine comes across as dense, concentrated and noticeably sweet on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of blackcurrant juice, some sour cherry tones, a little bit of chokeberry jam, light botrytis notes of orange marmalade and honey, a hint of prune juice and a touch of overripe grapey fruit. Despite its noticeable sweetness and quite viscous body, the wine manages to come across as surprisingly balanced and fresh, thanks to its high acidity and light, gently grippy tannins. The finish is long, balanced and subtly grippy with very sweet flavors of dark raisiny fruit and dried dates, some figgy tones, a little bit of honey richness, light blackcurrant jam nuances, a hint of honey and a touch of chokeberry marmalade.
For a brief moment I was completely lost with the wine - I had no idea how a wine could be so deep red in color, like a Vintage Port, yet feel both much sweeter and more concentrated AND fresher with higher acidity, both at the same time! Then I remembered how me and the person who poured this wine blind acquired some bottles of 2000 Acolon Trockenbeerenauslese a little while ago. I haven't opened my bottle yet, but I guessed (correctly) that this wine must be that one, because I couldn't think of any other style of wine that could be so dark, sweet and fresh all at the same time than a red Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese. Well, unsurprisingly, it turned out to be exactly that wine. Remarkably fun, balanced and tasty stuff. I can see this wine pairing wonderfully with aromatic and funky cheeses. A great purchase at 18€ for a half bottle.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
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