Some earlier iterations on the same theme:
Yet another report, pt. 1
Yet another report, pt. 2
The idea is simple: one person throws a tasting with no set theme whatsoever - the wines can come from anywhere in the world. Then people taste them through and offer their best guesses what the wines might be - often more or less very wrong.
- NV Ščurek Brut Zéro - Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda (5.12.2023)
The front label says only Ščurek Zéro, but the back label describes the wine as Brut Zero. The indicative blend is Rebula (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Glera (10%), although it might change depending on the vintage. Fermented and aged on the lees for 6 months in stainless steel tanks. Aged sur lattes for a minimum of 24 months. The wine does not show any vintage designation, but the back label says "G0-1932/2021 - L1/5000". 12,5% alcohol, no dosage.
Pale-to-medium-deep yellow color. The nose feels ripe and quite fruity but also slightly reticent with aromas of juicy yellow apples, some crunchy notes of fresh white peach, light leesy notes of creaminess and a hint of freshly pressed apple juice. The wine feels youthful, crisp and bone-dry on the palate with flavors of apple peel bitterness and mineral notes of chalk dust, a little bit of sharp Granny Smith apple, light crunchy notes of white currant and a herby hint of grassy greenness. The acidity feels brisk and incisive, whereas the mousse comes across as creamy and mellow. The finish is crisp, clean and lively with a moderately long, palate-cleansing aftertaste of apple peel bitterness, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of herby greenness, light steely mineral tones, a hint of barely ripe pear and a touch of chalk dust.
Compared to the bottle we had earlier this year, this wine was noticeably more open and moderately fruity in overall character, so most likely the first bottle we had was just mildly corked. However, curiously, this wine - that seemed to be more fruity and expressive - had also a more pronounced streak of bitterness. While not overtly bitter, the overall feel still had that chalky bitterness as its most notable feature. While a nice and refreshing palate-cleanser in its own right, I still think this wine might benefit from a dosage of 1 to 2 g/l. Even if the wine was in sound condition now, at 28€, the wine still feels somewhat pricey for the quality.
(84 points) - 2019 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (5.12.2023)
100% biodynamically farmed Viognier from lieux-dits La Caille, Sainte-Agathe. Fermented spontaneously. Aged in tronconic oak vats and old oak barrels for 10 months. 14% alcohol.
Yellow-green color. Ripe, youthful and quite expressive nose with aromas of peach and pear jam, some sweet apricot tones, a little bit of crunchy red apple, a hint of indistinct spicy character and a touch of leesy creaminess. The wine feels ripe, youthful and balanced on the palate with a rather full body and almost primary flavors of fresh pear, some apricot, light apple jam tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary grapey fruit notes, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of perfumed floral character. The overall feel is slightly oily, yet the wine doesn't come across as heavy or ponderous - mostly thanks to the relatively high acidity (for a Viognier). The finish is long, fruity and subtly sweet-toned with a youthful aftertaste of pear jam, some nectarine, a little bit of stony minerality, light floral tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of honeyed richness.
A textbook Condrieu. Still super youthful - borderline primary - but showing great sense of balance and harmony. I'd age the wine at least a few years longer, just to get rid of those sweet, estery primary fruit notes; fortunately the wine seems like it can easily be aged for a good handful of years more. While the wine is very true to the appellation - with its gras and being quite high in alcohol - the wine still shows great sense of balance and good structure, thanks to the acidity that feels relatively high for the variety. I'd let the wine wine wait for a few years more, but unlike the Vernon bottling, I doubt this is built for the long haul, so I'd drink up by the wine's 10th birthday. Good value at 38€.
(92 points) - 2017 Lyrarakis Vilana Pirovolikes - Greece, Crete (5.12.2023)
A single-vineyard Vilana from 30-yo bush vines. The crushed grapes are macerated in the must for 16 hours before the wine is pressed. Fermented over 15 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged in new and old French oak, Caucasian oak and acacia barrels for 50 days. 14% alcohol, 4,1 g/l residual sugar, 7,65 g/l acidity and pH 3,15.
Youthful, quite pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels a bit neutral and slightly waxy with light yet nuanced aromas of ripe yellow fruits, some alcohol, light leesy tones, a little bit of woolly lanolin, a fragrant hint of Mediterranean herbs, a touch of honeycomb and a vague oceanic whiff of salty sea air. The wine feels ripe yet dry and somewhat neutral on the palate with a moderately full body and a bit understated flavors of fresh white fruits, some mineral notes of chalk dust, light woolly notes of lanolin, a little bit of saline minerality, a hint of Mediterranean herbs and a faint chemical touch of some kind of thinner. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and freshness to the wine. The finish is dry, waxy and slightly warm with a moderately long aftertaste of waxy richness, some fresh white fruit notes, a little bit of woolly lanolin, light brackish notes of seawater, a hint of leesy character and a mineral touch of chalk dust.
A pleasant and balanced white that is a bit wanting for depth and character. The overall feel is enjoyably firm and fresh with good sense of structure, but the aromas and taste come across as somewhat neutral and understated in every way. Nice, but nothing particularly impressive or memorable. It's hard to say whether the wine will get better or just fade away with further aging. Priced according to its quality at 16,03€.
(89 points) - 2015 Familia Zuccardi Chardonnay Q - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato (5.12.2023)
100% Chardonnay made with grapes sourced from Gualtallary (approx. 80%) and El Peral (approx. 20%). The whole clusters are pressed and fermented in concrete vats (50-70%) and used 500-liter demi-muids (30-50%). No MLF. Aged on the lees for a year. 13,5% alcohol, 1,8 g/l residual sugar and 7,3 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep lemon-yellow color. The nose feels subtly sweet-toned and slightly woody with layered aromas of ripe red apples, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light tropical notes of pineapple, a hint of floral spice and a touch of fresh nectarine. The wine feels dry, firm and wonderfully acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of fresh red apples, some ripe lemony citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of creamy oak, a hint of saline minerality and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The brisk, zippy acidity lends great sense of precision and structure to the wine. The finish is ripe yet dry and incisive with a long, bright and crunchy aftertaste of fresh red apples, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of savory wood spice, light lemony citrus fruit tones, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of tangy salinity.
A surprisingly balanced, serious and harmonious Chardonnay that is still remarkably youthful and lively at the age of 8 years. The nose seemed a bit oaky, but wine was even less so on the palate. Terrific stuff with great sense of intensity, structure and precision. As the wine feels still very youthful and not particularly evolved, I can imagine this will get better and improve with additional aging. A very positive surprise. Good value at 19,82€.
(90 points) - 2007 Van Volxem Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (5.12.2023)
11,5%alcohol.
Medium-deep golden-yellow color with lime-green highlights. The nose is open, expressive and very true to the variety with complex aromas of ripe peach and floral notes of apple blossom, some honeyed tones, a little bit of overripe red apple, light petrolly notes of diesel, a hint of beeswax, a touch of mineral spice and a whiff of candied ginger. The wine is rich, broad and slightly oily on the palate with a rather full body and intense, dry-ish flavors of juicy white peach, some candied ginger, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of honeyed richness, sweet hints of ripe nectarine and tropical fruits and a touch of incisive steely minerality. Fortunately the acidity feels moderately high - maybe a bit low for a dry(ish) Riesling, but high enough to keep the wine in balance and lend it some sense of structure. The finish is long, ripe and powerful, but slightly less sweet and more savory compared to the overall impression, leaving a lingering aftertaste of beeswax, some peach, light lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of candied ginger, petrolly hints of diesel and a touch of mineral spice.
A rich, impressive and complex Riesling that is more about body, weight and power than finesse or precision. The opulent 2007 vintage really does show here. Although the wine is showing some signs of age, the overall feel doesn't feel particularly evolved, but instead relatively youthful - considering this is a dry +15 yo Riesling. A terrific powerhouse of a Riesling from the bigger and weightier end of the spectrum.
(93 points) - 2007 Rudi Pichler Riesling Smaragd Achleithen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (5.12.2023)
13% alcohol.
Pale straw yellow color. The nose feels rather sweet and focused with vibrant aromas of honey and apricot, some ripe pineapple and other exotic fruits, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of sweet golden apple, a hint of beeswax and a peculiar whiff of pepperminty greenness. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and focused flavors of fresh apricots, some spicy red apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light pineapple nuances, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of tangerine. The brisk, racy acidity lends great sense of freshness, structure and energy to the wine. The finish is dry, crisp and somewhat concentrated with a long aftertaste of fresh red apples and apricots, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of pineapple, light zesty notes of ripe citrus fruits, a floral hint of apple blossom and a green touch of peppermint.
An impressive, youthful and structured Smaragd Riesling that is very classically styled - ie. is not a huge, fat Riesling too high in alcohol, as contemporary Smaragd Rieslings so often are today. Tasting this alongside 2007 Van Volxem Braunfels, this Pichler doesn't seem as complex and impactful, but conversely the wine comes across as more youthful and more structure-driven with greater sense of freshness. In its own way, that Van Volxem wine seemed a more impressive wine now, but I can imagine this wine will outlive Van Volxem with its greater sense of freshness and acidity, and perhaps become a greater wine in the longer run - even if the wine doesn't manage to reach the level of Van Volxem yet. Nevertheless, these were two great and somewhat different Rieslings very close to each other qualitatively - it's just weird that this time a Saar Riesling was the big and weighty wine and a Wachau Smaragd was the lighter and more precise one!
(92 points) - 2017 Domaine de l'Horizon Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (5.12.2023)
100% Grenache from very old (80 yo) vineyards. Macerated briefly with the skins, then fermented in old 600-liter demi-muids with indigenous yeasts. Aged in oak on the lees for 9 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale pinkish-yellow color with an onion-skin hue. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and slightly spicy with aromas of vague red fruits, some cantaloupe, a little bit of garrigue, light peachy tones, a hint of savory old oak and a funky touch of wet dog. The wine feels ripe, firm and dry-ish on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of fresh peachy stone fruit, some red apple tones, a little bit of savory, vaguely stony mineral spice, light notes of cantaloupe, a woody hint of old oak and a touch of wool. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the wine, but the shows good sense of substance and even a tiny bit of viscosity at the same time. The finish is dry, ripe and juicy with a long, layered aftertaste of ripe red apples, some peachy tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light stony mineral notes, herby hints of garrigue and a touch of ripe cantaloupe.
An impressive, harmonious and tasty rosé that shows great sense of structure and substance. Comes across as somewhat sweeter and weightier compared to the less ripe and more precise 2016 vintage that we tasted at the same time. Both the wines were great, but I have to admit that I liked the drier, more acid-driven 2016 vintage a bit more. As the wine doesn't seem to show that much aged qualities, I can imagine this vintage will evolve effortlessly for many years more. Recommended.
(91 points) - 2016 Domaine de l'Horizon Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (5.12.2023)
100% Grenache from very old (80 yo) vineyards. Macerated briefly with the skins, then fermented in old 600-liter demi-muids with indigenous yeasts. Aged in oak on the lees for 9 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Intense, medium-deep peach-orange color. The nose feels dry, vibrant and even slightly punchy with layered aromas of fresh red fruits, some peachy stone fruit, a little bit of herby garrigue, light cantaloupe tones, a woody hint of savory oak, a touch of carrot purée and a whiff of earth. The wine feels dry, focused and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of fresh red apples and tangy salinity, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of fresh peachy fruit, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of chalky bitterness. The wine packs good sense of substance, but the overall feel is very brisk and incisive with the high acidity. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with an intense, acid-driven aftertaste of fresh red apples and brambly raspberries, some savory wood spice, a little bit of stony minerality, light nuances of garrigue, a hint of creamy oak and a salty touch of brackish water.
A wonderful, complex and serious rosé with great sense of focus and structure. Tasting this next to the 2017 vintage, it seemed obvious that the wines were cut from the same cloth, but whereas the 2017 vintage packed a bit more ripeness and substance with a tiny bit sweeter-toned fruit, this 2016 vintage was somewhat drier, a bit more mineral and slightly more acid-driven (or the acidity came better to the fore due to the less ripe flavor profile and subtly lighter body). Although the wine is starting to exhibit the tiniest bit of age, I can imagine this wine will continue to evolve and improve for many, many more years. A fantastic rosé by all standards. Domaine de l'Horizon doesn't seem to fail.
(93 points) - 2020 Pheasant's Tears Poliphonia - Georgia, Kakheti (5.12.2023)
A blend of organically farmed Achkikizhi, Adanasuri, Adreuli Tetri, Akhmetis Shavi, Akhmetis Tsiteli, Aladasturi, Alexandrouli, Arabeuli Shavi, Argvetuli Sapere, Batomura, Bazaleturi Tsolikauri, Beglaris Vazi, Berbesho, Budeshuri Tsiteli, Buera, Buza, Buza Kartli, Chardonnay, Chinuri, Chitiskvertshkha, Chitistvala Bodburi, Chitistvala Kakhuri, Chitistvala Tetri, Chitistvala Tsiteli, Chkhaveri, Chrogha, Danakharuli, Didshavi, Dondghlabi, Dzaghliarchama, Dzelshavi, Dzirageuli, Gabasha, Ghrubela kakhuri, Ghvins Tetri, Godatuuri, Gomis Tetri, Gorula, Goruli Aladasturi, Grdzelmtevana, Ikaltos Tsiteli, Ingilouri, Institutis Grdzelmtevana, Jineshi, Jvari, Kakhis Tetri, Kakhuri Mtsvane, Kakhuri Mtsvivani, Kakhuri Tetri, Kamuri Tetri, Kamuri Tetri, Kartlis Tita, Kartula, Khargrdzeli Kviteli, Khikhvi, Khikhvi Rachuli, Kishuri, Krakhuna, Kundza, Kurkena, Kurkeni, Kustauri Saghvine, Labiladzis Tetri, Lakoiazhgi, Livanuri Tetri, Loladzis Khikhvi, Maghkari Mskhviltvala, Maghlaris Trtvina, Matchkvaturi, Meskhuri Mtsvane, Mgaloloblishvili, Mkhargrzeli, Mtchvartala, Mtskhvilamartsvala Tetri, Mtsvane Kviteli, Mujuretuli, Nakutvneuli, Nakutvnuli, Natskhara, Otskhanuri Sapere, Qvelouri, Rachuli Shavi, Rkatsiteli, Rkatsiteli Mtsvane, Rko Shavi, Sachkheris Dzelshavi, Sadzire, Sakartvelo, Sapena, Saperavi, Saperavi Atenuri, Saperavi Budeshurisebri, Saperavi Kartlis, Seura, Shavkapito, Shavtita, Shavtkhila, Shemodghmis Shavi, Simonaseuli, Sirajouli Shavi, Sirgula, Steluri, Supris Gorula, Tavkveri, Tchkapa, Tchrogha, Tchrogha Akhuri, Tchumuta, Tchvitiluri, Tevan Didi, Tkbili Kurdzini, Trivrakhani, Trvrimala, Tsiska, Tsitelauri, Tsiv Chkhavera, Tskhenis Dzudzu, Tskhvedianis Tetri, Tskobila, Tsnoris Tetri, Tsolikouri, Tsulukidzis Tetra, Ubakluri, Vardispera, Vardzia, Zakatalis Tetri, Zakatalis Tsiteli - ie. a total of 127 varieties (the back label mentioned 128 varieties, but also had Danakharuli listed twice) from Pheasant's Tears' library vineyard - all harvested at one go as a field blend. The wine is fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in earthenware kvevris. Vinified without any SO2, bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol.
Dark, quite youthful and almost fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels open, quite wild and rather animale with aromas of burnt hair, some bretty notes of barnyard and phenolic spice, light acetic notes of VA, a little bit of brambly raspberry, crunchy hints of cranberries and crowberries, a lifted touch of zesty Campari aromatics and a whiff of inky character. The wine feels wild, quite dense and somewhat ripe on the palate with a moderately full body and rather natty flavors of brambly black raspberries and crunchy cranberries, some bretty notes of leather and barnyard, a little bit of medicinal ether and acetic VA, light phenolic notes of smoke and bitter spices, a hint of earth and a sweeter touch of ripe strawberry. The wine is pretty stern and tightly-knit with its high acidity and rather assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is wild and somewhat acetic with a long and juicy aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some phenolic notes of smoke and dry, bitter spices, a little bit of appley character, light bretty notes of leathery funk and horse stables, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of vinegary VA. The ample, assertive tannins make the wine end on a noticeably grippy note.
This was not as overtly bretty as the last time we had the wine, a year earlier, but heavily bretty nonetheless. Furthermore, the wine feels more natty than before with lots of weird, animale notes, and the VA feels much higher than previously. The overall feel is nothing but a huge red flag for mousiness, but for some reason the wine doesn't turn mousy. I even saved 5 cl of the wine for the next day - and contrary to all my expectations, the wine didn't turn mousy! Anyways, this is still an impressive wine in its own right, but more as a curiosity, not as a serious wine you'd buy to enjoy. Fun stuff, at most. Priced according to its quality at 19,90€.
(88 points) - 2020 Château Le Puy Cuvée Emilien - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux (5.12.2023)
100% organically farmed grapes from vineyards interplanted to Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), Cabernet Franc (6%), Carménère (1%) and Malbec (1%). Aged for 24 months in old foudres and barriques. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12,91% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar, 5,5 g/l acidity, 1,14 g/l VA, pH 3,46 and 25 mg/l total SO2.
Rather deep, quite opaque and quite youthful blackish-red color. The nose feels youthful but also rather lifted with aromas of crushed dark berries, some crunchy notes of red plums, redcurrants and lingonberries, light sharp, acetic notes of VA, a little bit of animal funk, a hint of burnt hair and a touch of roasted bell pepper. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense, somewhat sauvage flavors of tart lingonberries, redcurrants and crowberries, some brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of sharp acetic VA, light funky notes of leather and barnyard, sweeter hints of ripe blackcurrants and other dark fruits and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine feels high in acidity with moderately grippy yet not tough medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, long and rather grippy with a crunchy, somewhat sauvage aftertaste of redcurrants and tart red plums, some fresh blackcurrant tones, a little bit of animal funk, light vinegary notes of VA, a hint of crushed dark berries and a touch of brambly raspberry.
A surprisingly wild and lifted - almost natty - effort for a Bordeaux. The overall feel is still very youthful and maybe a bit awkward, but showing good sense of firmness and structure with its high acidity and firm tannins. With its dry, unadulterated fruit profile, modest alcohol and high acidity, this wine reminds me more of Loire reds than your typical contemporary Bordeaux. My only beef with the wine is its rather pronounced level of VA - the wine feels at times almost vinegary both in the nose and on the palate. As long as the wine doesn't get funkier and more lifted with age, I'm sure it will continue to age and evolve nicely over the next ten-ish years, or even more. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 31,50€.
(89 points) - 2020 Clos Puy Arnaud - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (5.12.2023)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Merlot (70%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) from 30-yo vineyards. The whole bunches are first cold-soaked, then fermented spontaneously in wooden and concrete vats. Aged for 8 months in barriques (10% new), old demi-muids and clay amphorae, then blended together in larger concrete tanks and aged for another 5 months. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, youthful and almost fully opaque blackish-purple color. The nose feels clean, youthful and quite fruit-forward with dark-toned, slightly sweet aromas of dark plums and fresh blackcurrants, some blueberries, a little bit of damp forest floor, light inky tones, crunchy hints of crowberries and elderberries and a sweeter touch of ripe strawberry. The wine feels ripe yet dry on the palate with a full body and clean, fruit-forward flavors of ripe blackcurrants and fresh red damsons, some blueberry tones, a little bit of licorice root, light leafy vegetal tones, a hint of tobacco and a woody touch of pencil shavings. The structure relies mostly on the rather high acidity as the ripe, powdery tannins contribute mainly to rich, velvety texture, not that much to the structure. The finish is ripe, clean and juicy with a little bit of gentle tannic grip and a long aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and fresh red plums, some blueberry tones, a little bit of earth or forest floor, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of tobacco and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A very harmonious, tasty and vibrant Bordeaux. Still very youthful in style, yet not coming across as too polished or primary in any way - the style here is very classically styled and quite old-school. Sure, the wine shows more ripeness and comes more darker-toned than a classic claret from the 1970's or 1980's would've, but the stylistic leanings are still very much in that direction. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve and improve nicely over the years. However, as the tannins are very supple and gentle, they really don't require any further aging and the wine is ready for business right now. Recommended. Drink or keep.
(91 points) - 2015 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie Améthyste - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (5.12.2023)
100% Serine from parcels in Côte Blonde, Côte Brune, Mollard, Baleyat and Chavaroche. Most of the fruit is fermented in whole bunches - about 30% is destemmed. No punch-downs, the grape skins are macerated in the must by keeping them submerged with planks in cement vats. Aged in demi-muids and large oak vats (30% new oak in total) for 24 months. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, slightly translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels dark-toned and a bit toasty with aromas of ripe black raspberries, some spicy woody tones, a little bit of sweet bilberry, light chocolatey mocha oak tones, a hint of crushed peppercorns and a touch of ripe strawberry. The wine feels ripe, dry and somewhat extracted on the palate with a moderately full body and slightly sweet-toned flavors of juicy black raspberries and blackberries, some brooding notes of toasty oak spice, a little bit of fresh bilberry, light sweet vanilla nuances, red-toned hints of strawberries and tart red plums and a touch of extracted woody bitterness. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is ripe, dark-toned and somewhat grippy with a long, intensely-flavored aftertaste of juicy blackberries and bilberries, some toasty mocha oak, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light stony mineral notes, a hint of vanilla and a touch of wild strawberry.
A stern, extracted and somewhat oaky Côte-Rôtie that is a bit too polished and woody for my preference at the moment, but showing good potential for additional aging. As the wine comes across as pretty youthful at 8 years of age, I have no doubts the wine will continue to evolve and improve for at least another 8 years and most likely keep for much longer. However, I was honestly surprised how glossy and oaky the wine came across - I would've imagined the wine saw much more than just 30% new oak! As the wine was pretty identifiable as a Syrah, my first guesses were in new world, but when told that the wine came from Europe, I guessed that then it must be a modernist producer from Rhône. Well, it turned out to be Levet - a producer typically considered to be in the traditionalist camp. Well, this wine most certainly didn't feel like it! I really hope additional aging would integrate that toasty oak character better with the fruit.
(89 points) - 1996 Château Dassault - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (5.12.2023)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark and somewhat translucent cherry-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels evolved and somewhat autumnal at first with some bottle stink, but then slowly starts to open up into a classic aged St. Émilion aroma profile with quite tertiary aromas of ripe redcurrants and leafy forest floor, some leathery tones and loose tobacco, some dried-fruit notes of red prunes and wizened blackcurrants, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of meat stew and a touch of balsamic VA. The wine feels dry, evolved and silky on the palate with a medium body and moderately tertiary flavors of wizened redcurrants and juicy dark plums, some autumnal notes of damp leaves and forest floor, a little bit of old leather, light tart notes of lingonberries, woody hint of pencils shavings and a sweeter touch of dried red plums. The high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine and intensity to the flavors, whereas the still moderately grippy medium tannins bring nice firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is long, nuanced and moderately grippy with a dry aftertaste of tobacco and dried red fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light herbaceous notes of leafy greenness and cooked bell pepper, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of earth.
At first the wine felt almost like it was goners - and many people actually dismissed the wine as DOA - but I immediately thought that the wine must be an older St. Émilion, probably some 30-40 years old, so even from the start I thought the wine was alive enough to be identifiable. Although the wine felt somewhat tired and flat with very little fruit at first, it didn't take more than 15-20 minutes in the glass for the wine to open up. After the wine unfurled in the glass, it was a delightful, classically styled claret with good sense of balance and lovely tertiary complexity. Most likely the wine is on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for quite some time - so it definitely won't benefit from any additional aging, but I think this bottle wasn't past its peak yet. While the wine wasn't a particularly transcendental example of aged Bordeaux, it was a thoroughly enjoyable wine all the same (and actually a small 50 ml sample survived without any problems for a day, drinking perfectly fine some 24 hours later after the bottle was opened).
(91 points) - 1990 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Cabernet Sauvignon Los Vascos - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley (5.12.2023)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, moderately translucent brick-red color with an orange rim. The mature nose feels quite classically styled and rather Bordelais with aromas of wizened blackcurrants, some herbaceous bell pepper and leafy tones, a little bit of dried dark fruits, light notes of tobacco, a green-toned hint of minty herbal character, a touch of forest floor and a tertiary whiff of meaty character. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of sweet blackcurrants and ripe cranberries, some succulent notes of dark plums, a little bit of old leather, light leafy herbaceous notes, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of gravelly minerality. The acidity feels enjoyably high and the medium-plus tannins still pack a healthy amount of grip. The finish is ripe, firm and fresh with moderate tannic grip and a long aftertaste of juicy blackcurrants and wizened dark fruits, some tobacco, light leafy tones, a little bit of old leather, a hint of cooked bell pepper and a touch of tart red plums.
For a Chilean Cab clocking in at third-of-a-century old, this is a very impressive effort. Although showing some tertiary qualities, the wine definitely doesn't come across as young, yet it still is surprisingly youthful for its age, retaining a remarkable sense of freshness and vibrancy for a new world Cab this old. The overall feel is very much like old school Bordeaux - there is nothing even remotely Chilean here (as in the qualities typically associated with contemporary Chilean Cabernet). Excellent stuff; I don't know if the wine is going to evolve and improve from here, but it doesn't feel like the wine is going to fall apart anytime soon. At 35€ for three bottles (ie. less than 12€ per bottle) this has been a steal.
(93 points) - 1985 Château Soussans - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (5.12.2023)
Typically a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, sometimes with a dash of Carménère. Tasted blind.
Evolved, quite aged and somewhat hazy yet still moderately translucent maroon color. The nose is immediately identifiable as an aged Bordeaux with layered aromas of herbaceous leafy tones and tobacco, some wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of cigar wrapper, light smoky tones, a hint of crunchy red plum and a touch of sous-bois. The wine feels dry, harmonious and silky on the palate with a medium body and evolved flavors of wizened blackcurrants, some tobacco, light gamey tones, a little bit of ripe dark plummy fruit, a hint of earth and a touch of ripe yet somewhat tart dark berries. The wine is high in acidity with ripe, resolved medium tannins. The finish is long, complex and gently grippy with a moderately tertiary aftertaste of tobacco, some wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of earth, light leafy tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of gamey meat.
A fine, complex and harmonious Margaux at its peak maturity. The wine is obviously quite aged, but it hasn't progressed to the anonymous, oxidative senescent phase yet - the wine was immediately recognizable as an old claret with the first sniff and the first sip only helped to confirm this observation. Good and eminently enjoyable stuff. As the wine doesn't benefit from any additional aging, drinking it sooner rather than later is highly recommended.
(92 points) - 1985 Château Cantemerle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (5.12.2023)
12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, moderately translucent pomegranate color with a rather tertiary maroon hue and a brick-orange rim. The nose feels fragrant and immediately identifiable for an aged Bordeaux with beautifully evolved aromas of tobacco and old leather, some evolved meaty tones, a little bit of ripe dark fruits, light cedary notes of cigar box, a hint of leafy forest floor and a sweet touch of wizened blackcurrants. The wine feels firm, sinewy and evolved on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of wizened blackcurrants and crunchy chokeberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of earth, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a savory touch of meaty umami. The structure relies almost entirely on the high acidity as the mellow, fully resolved tannins contribute only a little bit to the texture and not really anything to the structure. The finish is juicy, layered and harmonious with a long, savory aftertaste of tobacco and ripe dark fruits, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light sweeter nuances of wizened blackcurrants, a hint of forest floor and a touch of evolved meaty character.
A beautiful, harmonious and wonderfully evolved claret at its peak. The wine is definitely starting to get quite tertiary and the tannins have resolved more or less fully, but the wine shows no signs of tiredness yet. Aromatically the wine is as textbook old-school Bordeaux as they come and on the palate the wine is wonderfully silky and suave with great sense of complexity. Seeing how the tannic structure has softened up so considerably, I wouldn't pair the wine with any rich and heavy dishes that call for good grip, but with its high acidity, the wine won't be easily overwhelmed by heartier textures or flavors. Great stuff, highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2009 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (5.12.2023)
Made with grapes that have been grown organically on predominantly granite soil. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors with 2-week maceration, stems and all. Aged for 24 months in old foudres and 600-liter demi-muids. Bottled with ~50 mg/l SO2. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite youthful and very slightly translucent blackish-red color with a faint purplish hue. The age doesn't really show here. The nose feels ripe and sweet-toned but also a bit restrained with aromas of ripe blackberries, some licorice root, light floral notes, a little bit of sun-baked earth, a hint of olive and a touch of dusty attic. With time this dusty note slowly gains more prominence. The wine is dry, dense and chewy on the palate with a medium body and punchy flavors of brambly blackberries, some licorice root, light blueberry tones, a little bit of earth and gravelly minerality, a briny hint of olive and a touch of cranberry. The wine is high in acidity with ample and still rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and long with an intense aftertaste of blueberries and ripe blackberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of licorice root, light notes of olives, a hint of earth and a touch of dusty old wood.
At first the wine was very classically styled and immediately identifiable as a Northern Rhône Syrah - although I didn't guess Gonon - but with more time the wine started to lose vibrancy, turning more earthy and dusty. When the bottle was revealed to be Gonon, I was surprised, because I had tasted this vintage of their St. Joe before only a few years ago - and it was noticeably more fruity and expressive. This was noticeably less earthy and somewhat more muted in comparison. Although the wine didn't start to exhibit any obvious TCA aromas, the nose did have a dull, dusty streak that didn't feel like it belonged there. I feel this was probably an ever so slightly corked bottle - not corked enough to kill the fruit, because the wine was still very true to the variety and the region - but corked enough to make it lose some of the fruit and purity it was supposed to exhibit. As I can't be certain whether the wine was corked or not, I'm not marking it as flawed/defective, just leaving it unrated. - 1990 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (5.12.2023)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Slightly hazy pomegranate color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels very tertiary and slightly tired at first, but the aromas slowly open up to reveal layered notes of wizened dark plums, some ripe blackberries, light earthy nuances, a little bit of raisiny character and a hint of forest floor. The wine feels ripe, evolved and quite tertiary on the palate with flavors of wizened dark berries, some tart cranberries, a little bit of salty beef jerky, light ferrous notes of blood, hints of earth and tobacco and a savory touch of meaty umami. The wine shows nice sense of structure with its high acidity and firm medium tannins. The finish is long, evolved and gently grippy with a rather tertiary aftertaste of game and meaty umami, some salty notes of beef jerky, a little bit of tobacco, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a hint of wizened dark fruits and blackberries and a touch of gravelly minerality.
At first the wine felt pretty tired, borderline dead. However, with some air the wine slowly awoke from its slumber and more or less came back to life. The overall feel was still quite old and tertiary, but as the fruit and complexity emerged, the overall feel transformed from a tired old wine into a beautifully resolved and harmonious Syrah at full maturity. Our guesses were all over the place and nobody managed to guess correctly a Californian Syrah almost 35 years old. Great stuff, but as the wine is on the border of decline, I heartily recommend drinking any remaining bottles sooner rather than later.
(90 points) - 2021 Domaine de Bonvin Vin de France Massemma - France, Vin de France (5.12.2023)
100% organically farmed Sémillon from vineyards near Bergerac. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 6 months in a cuve diamante. Bottled unfiltered. 10,5% alcohol. Lot number VdF21. Tasted blind.
Hazy orange color with a pale yellow-ish rim. The nose feels wild, volatile and rather sweet with aromas of white vinegar, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of bretty funk, light herby tones, a hint of crunchy golden currants and a touch of vegetable stock cube. The wine feels dull, funky and moderately acetic on the palate with a light body and wild flavors of orange, some bretty leather, a little bit of phenolic spice, light stony minerality, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of resinous phenolic character. The overall feel is lacking depth, typicity and freshness - the wine comes across as nothing more than an anonymous natty wine with too much brett and VA. The soft medium-minus acidity doesn't really help with the lack of freshness. The finish is wild, volatile and subtly tannic with a medium-long aftertaste of bruised apple, some apple peel bitterness, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of resinous phenolic character and a hint of vinegary VA.
Ugh, a way too wild, funky and volatile orange wine that comes across as a generic and very anonymous naturalist wine. It was impossible to give any educated guesses about the grape variety or the region when there was no sense of typicity whatsoever. Complete waste of money at 17,50€.
(69 points) - 2016 Tetramythos Muscat Blanc Sec Natur e - Greece, Peloponnisos, Achaia (5.12.2023)
100% Muscat Blanc, vinified spontaneously, full MLF, aged for 7 months on the lees and bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. Fragrant yet not varietally that obvious (lacking the heady floral tones typical of Muscat) with aromas of herby greenness, some aldehydic notes of sorrel and green almonds, a little bit of sweet minty character, light juicy notes of fresh peach and a hint of ripe Golden Delicious apple. The wine feels dry, crisp and rather tangy on the palate with a medium body and acid-driven flavors of steely minerality and sharp Granny Smith apple, some green aldehydic notes, a little bit of salinity, light tart citrus fruit notes of key lime and pomelo and a hint of pine needles. The high acidity lends great freshness to the overall feel, but feels maybe a bit too pronounced in relation to the lean, dry flavors and light body. The finis is crisp and lively with an intense but also quite linear aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some pomelo, a little bit of saline minerality, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a hint of apple peel bitterness and an aldehydic touch of green almonds.
An enjoyably crisp and racy wine that didn't feel particularly true to the variety - this felt like any zippy, acid-driven wine made with grapes that are just barely ripe. The overall feel was a bit too lean and austere to stand up to the bracing acidity and those mineral and slightly bitter undertones. Furthermore - the wine didn't have any of those floral Muscat notes whatsoever. Nobody in the tasting guessed anything remotely Muscat or any other aromatic variety. Finally, there was this subtle streak of Fino Sherry-like aldehydic greenness that made me wonder if the wine was in good shape (although it's a note I've found in many Tetramythos wines, so maybe it's a house flavor)? All in all, can't say I was particularly impressed. This is drinkable and refreshing, but nothing I'd buy for myself if I was looking for a nice dry Muscat.
(81 points) - 2018 Attila Homonna Furmint Tokaji Rany - Hungary, Tokaji (5.12.2023)
100% Furmint from old vineyards. Fully destemmed, fermented spontaneously, aged in old, neutral barriques and 500-liter demi-muids. Bottled when deemed ready. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, rather pale lime-green color. The nose feels clean, fragrant and somewhat herby with aromas of honeyed sweetness, some floral and spicy notes of noble hops, a little bit of fresh yellow apple,s light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of ripe white peach and a touch of nectarine. The wine feels ripe, oily and chewy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body, rather concentrated overall feel and intense flavors of apricot, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light chalky bitter tones, hints of ripe citrus fruits and juicy white peaches and a touch of beeswax. The high acidity lends great sense of intensity, structure and energy to the wine. The finish is lively, fresh and acid-driven with a long, intensely-flavored aftertaste of white peach, some waxy tones, a little bit of stony minerality and chalky bitterness, light honeyed notes, a hint of cantaloupe and a herby touch of noble hops.
A very impressive, characterful and promising Furmint that is all about power, minerality and future potential. While a terrific wine in its own right, the wine felt almost too much at the moment. There is just so much old vine concentration here; the wine is very impactful, but not particularly fun to drink - at least on its own. There is just so much things going on here, all at full blast. This is an excellent wine, but one I'd buy not for immediate consumption, but to be drunk at the age of 10 years, minimum. This is a powerhouse of a dry Tokaji that simply screams for aging. Highly recommended. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(93 points) - 2013 Feudo Principi di Butera Insolia Sicilia - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (5.12.2023)
100% Insolia aka. Ansonica. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, evolved golden yellow color. The nose feels old, complex and quite tertiary with aromas of nutty oxidative character, some honeyed tones, a little bit of hay, light nuances of bruised apples and a hint of roasted almonds. The wine feels lively, firm and subtly viscous on the palate with a medium body and dry, intense and moderately tertiary flavors of acacia honey, some oxidative nutty tones, a little bit of hay, light bruised apple notes, a hint of savory spices and a touch of salinity. The high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is long, lively and quite acid-driven with an evolved aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of nutty oxidative character, light stony mineral notes, a hint of hay and a touch of bitter almond.
A fun, characterful and pleasantly evolved Sicilian white. Although the wine is getting very old and oxidative, it doesn't feel tired or past its peak - there is enough fruit and savory complexity to keep things interesting. I was quite surprised to learn this was a Sicilian Insolia - probably the wine had gotten older than it was supposed to, but it was still drinking remarkably well! I really don't see any point in aging the wine any further than this, though - high time to drink up. At just 6,60€ per bottle, this has been ridiculous value.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker