Full Xinomavro focus this time!
I love this versatile Greek variety that can be made into so many different styles of wine. I guess the old-school style reminiscent of Barolo or Barbaresco (with a dash of tomato character) is perhaps the best-known, but Xinomavro also excels in delicate, almost Burgundian styles of light red wine and impressive premium rosé wines. Naturally the variety can be made into a still or sparkling Blanc de Noirs, but I’m still not convinced if this style is successful - I’ve had now a handful of Karanika bubblies, but still not a single bottle has managed to impress me. If you ask me, Xinomavro is at its best when it retains at least some of its red color.
There doesn’t have to be much red color, mind you - these two still rosé wines we had here were simply drop-dead gorgeous. I’ve said it many times before and will continue to say that Thymiopoulos’ late-release version of his Xinomavro Rosé is an absolute beast of a wine - one of the best rosé wines in the world, along with the likes of Heredia’s Tondonia Rosado - but that Kir-Yianni version of barrel-aged rosé wine was a great contender as well, offering good run for your money. And remember, these words of praise come from a person who normally isn’t particularly thrilled by pink wines!
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2021 Karanika Cuvée Speciale Extra Brut - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
A blend of Xinomavro from ungrafted vineyards in the village of Pedino and the lake Petron (90%) and Assyrtiko from Levea (10%). Bottled in April 2022; disgorged in April 2023, after 12 months of aging sur lattes. 11,5% alcohol, dosage 0-2 g/l.
Rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful, ripe and quite fruity with aromas of white peach, some apple jam, light steely mineral notes, a hint of leesy yeast and a hint of saline sea air. The wine feels surprisingly neutral and understated on the palate with a crisp, fine and brisk mousse, a light-to-medium body and somewhat reticent flavors of apple peel bitterness, some crunchy white currant, light leesy notes yeast, a little bit of salinity and steely minerality, a hint of rubbery reduction and a touch of herbs. The brisk, racy acidity juts out a little bit due to the rather light flavor department. The finish is crisp, quite neutral and rather short with a dry aftertaste of saline minerality, some crunchy white currant, a little bit of stony minerality, light leesy notes of yeast and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
I was surprised how neutral and underwhelming this vintage was. The 2019 vintage of the same label I tasted less than a year ago was also dry and delicate in character, but it was a brisk, palate-cleansing effort not unlike a young Blanc de Blancs Champagne. This, however, felt more austere and shrill in style - stylistically very similar, but those minor differences changing the impression from a refreshing palate-cleanser to a lean and austere fizz. I hope the wine was just closed and in an awkward phase now, opening up into something more balanced and enjoyable with age, because this time this vintage didn't offer much. Even if pretty affordable, the wine still felt a bit pricey for the quality at 17€.
(82 points) -
2017 Karanika Xinomavro Brut Nature Extra Cuvée de Réserve - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
100% Xinomavro from ungrafted vineyards. Whole bunch pressed, vinified without any sulfites in 2000-liter foudres. Bottled in January 2017, disgorged in November 2022 after 70 months of aging sur lattes. 12% alcohol, 0,4 g/l residual sugar, 7,9 g/l acidity, pH 2,77 and free SO 0,6 mg/l. Total production 7500 bottles.
Rather pale and neutral whitish-yellow color. The nose feels somewhat restrained and a bit stuffy with slightly closed aromas of herby greenness, some leesy tones, a little bit of yeasty autolysis and a sweeter hint of ripe white peach. The wine feels bone-dry, rather neutral and quite mouth-puckering on the palate with an ample, crisp and persistent mousse and crunchy flavors of grassy herbal character, rather pronounced phenolic bitterness, some pithy lemon character, light angular notes of stony minerality, a little bit of tangy salinity, a sharp hint of key lime and a faint red-toned touch of tart lingonberry. The racy acidity makes the wine feel rather lean, shrill and high-strung. The finish is brisk, austere and bone-dry with a medium-long aftertaste of pithy lemon, some incisive steely mineral notes, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light saline mineral notes, a tart hint of key lime and a touch of grassy greenness.
A quite austere, lean and unapologetic bubbly that is surprisingly dominated by the bitter flavors typical of Xinomavro. Although these bitter notes work quite well in a red wine context, I feel the bracing acidity and angular mineral tones don't work that well with those bitter nuances, making the wine feel aggressively sharp and austere. However, this is a very recent release, tasted only half a year after the disgorgement, so I can imagine it's possible we just opened the wine way too early and it will pick up depth, complexity and sense of balance as the wine ages. At the moment the wine is just too harsh and understated for my taste to be the flagship bubbly of the winery - thus it feels somewhat expensive for the quality at approx. 34€.
(84 points) -
2021 Karanika Xinomavro Brut Rosé - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
A blend of Xinomavro from ungrafted vineyards in Sioska, Nivigratsko, Bara, Petres and Pedino village (98%) and Limniona from Levea (2%). Whole bunch pressed. Bottled in February 2022 and disgorged in January 2023, after 11 months of aging sur lattes. 11,5% alcohol, dosage 5 g/l, 7,46 g/l acidity and pH 2,92. Total production 15500 bottles.
Pale to medium-deep, pinkish salmon-red color. The nose feels ripe with aromas of wild strawberries, some leesy notes of autolysis, a little bit of phenolic spice and smoky character, light funky nuances, a hint of juicy Golden Delicious apple and a touch of zesty citrus fruit. The wine feels dry-ish, somewhat linear and quite ripe on the palate with a medium body and somewhat neutral flavors of ripe red apple, some lemony citrus fruit tones, a little bit of tart lingonberry, steely mineral tones, a hint of leesy autolysis and a touch of subtly bitter phenolic spice. The wine is very high in acidity and the mousse feels brisk and fizzy but surprisingly short. The finish is crisp, pretty dry and quite palate-cleansing with a rather long aftertaste of saline minerality, some tart notes of lemony citrus fruits and green apples, light crunchy notes of redcurrants, a little bit of leesy autolysis and a hint of steely minerality.
A pleasant but a bit harmless rosé bubbly. There's good sense of nuance, but the flavor department is still a bit on the neutral side and the mousse feels just way too rough and short for a fine sparkling wine. Despite its pitfalls, I still thought this was more balanced and enjoyable than the rather austere and somewhat shrill white Karanika sparkling wines (2021 Cuvée Speciale Extra Brut and 2017 Extra Cuvée de Reserve) we tasted at the same time.
(86 points) -
NV Kir-Yianni Scaperdas Frères Hommage Brut Rose - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
100% Xinomavro from old vineyards. No idea about the base vintage. Disgorged in July 2022. 12% alcohol.
Pale yellow-orange peach color. The nose feels rich and quite fruity with characterful aromas of ripe nectarine, some golden apple tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light waxy tons, a hint of banana and a touch of marzipan. The wine feels ripe, juicy and characterful on the palate with quite noticeably savory, umami-driven flavors of slightly bruised red apple, some leesy and subtly bready autolytic notes, a little bit of steely minerality, light marzipan tones, a hint of crunchy cranberry and a touch of tangy salinity. The racy acidity lends good sense of energy and structure to the wine, whereas the fine, tingly and persistent mousse feels a bit sparse. The finish is dry, crunchy and rather umami-driven with a medium-to-moderately long, savory aftertaste of red apple, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of marzipan, light saline nuances, a hint of ripe cranberry and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A nice, balanced and characterful rosé bubbly. Not a bullseye, but nothing to complain either. The flavor profile has a noticeable emphasis on umami flavors, lending a very savory feel to the wine despite the somewhat ripe fruit department. The acidity feels high, but not too high to make the wine too lean. After three very austere Karanika sparklers, I found this rosé bubbly much more balanced and enjoyable - probably due to this wine's slightly more ripe and a bit more fruity overall character.
(88 points) -
2021 Kir-Yianni Agkathoto - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (17.5.2023)
100% Xinomavro from a young, southeast-facing 0,41-hectare vineyard in Gastra. Fully destemmed, pressed in a vertical press and moved into 228-liter oak pièces and tanks for fermentation. After the fermentation the wine is racked into 2000-liter oak casks and aged in oak for 12 months. 13,5% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar, 7,0 g/l acidity, 0,51 g/l VA and pH 3,17. Total production 2400 bottles.
Pale seared salmon color. The nose feels ripe, open and quite fruit-forward with sweet-toned aromas of juicy peaches, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light crunchy nuances of fresh red apples, a hint of sweet oak spice, a primary touch of tropical candies and a whiff of vanilla or strawberry yogurt. The wine feels ripe yet dry, focused and nuanced on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of citrus fruits and fresh red apples, some creamy oak tones with subtle vanilla overtones, a little bit of crunchy nectarine, light woody notes of toasted oak spice, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of waxy funk. The high acidity lends great sense of focus and structure to the wine. The lengthy finish is ripe, juicy and quite fruit-driven with dry, complex flavors of fresh nectarine and red apple, some creamy oak tones, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of waxy funk, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a toasty touch of coffee.
An excellent, deftly crafted premium rosé made in a style quite similar to the legendary oak-aged rosés like Tondonia Rosado and the Reserve version of Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro. The overall feel is maybe a bit more polished and modern in comparison, but you can see the stylistic similarity quite easily. The oak use feels quite on point - it adds lovely touch of complexity and richness without really obfuscating any of the finer Xinomavro nuances. Maybe the flavor profile is a bit on the toasty side, but not so much it would distract from the pleasure. The wine drinks really well right now, but I can see it evolving and improving from here just fine. A bargain at 22€. Highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2013 Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro (Late Release) - Greece, Macedonia (17.5.2023)
Although Thymiopoulos has a "Rosé de Xinomavro" in their range, this 2013 is a completely different beast to their normal rosé aged in stainless steel, as this sophomore vintage is the most recent release. The wine is made with late-harvested (10th of October) Xinomavro grapes from a single vineyard planted 26 years ago on a northeastern slope, macerated with the skins for 8-10 hours and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Then the wine is aged for 4 years in 2nd use French demi-muids of 500 liters, followed by blending, bottling and aging for another 5 years in the winery's cellars before release. 12,5% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat dark and subtly hazy onion skin color with a faint salmon-pink hue. The nose feels ripe and maybe a bit reticent yet still wonderfully complex with layered aromas of strawberries and rose hips, some spicy phenolic tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light oxidative nuances of caramel and nuttiness, a hint of tomato stalk, a touch of orange marmalade and a whiff of fragrant Asian spices. This aroma palette has really got everything. The wine feels ripe yet dry, firm and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and complex, savory flavors of spicy red apples and sour cherries, some evolved creamy nuances, light phenolic notes of leather and smoky spice, a little bit of cooked rose hips, sweet red-toned hints of strawberries and ripe red currants and a touch of garrigue. The wine is not only impressively structured due to its high acidity, but there also seems to be a tiniest bit of tannic grip here as well. The finish is ripe, rich and juicy with a very long and impressively focused aftertaste of strawberries and cooked rose hips, some woody notes of nutty oak, a little bit of spicy red apple, light evolved nuances of cooked cream and caramel, a hint of funk and phenolic spice and a touch of earth.
This was - again - a truly fantastic and very idiosyncratic rosé, although the overall feel was a tiny bit more funky compared to the bottle we downed half a year ago. Just as last time, the wine doesn't really match the extraordinary depth and complexity of the 2007 vintage, but this isn't far behind - in fact, this still remains one of the best rosé wines I know. To be frank, this is one of the few wines that can actually hold a candle to the extraordinary Tondonia Rosado - and it's no wonder, knowing Thymiopoulos was inspired by that very rosé when he was making this wine! Not only is this a remarkable rosé in its own right, but also one of the greatest Greek wines out there. This drinks really well right now, but will continue to evolve and improve for years more. At just 30€ this has been a steal. Truly extraordinary stuff - very highly recommended.
(95 points) -
2018 Karanika Xinomavro Old Vines - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
The label says "Reserve Old Vines" but I believe this is the same as the old "60-100 Vines Xinomavro". 100% biodynamically farmed Xinomavro from ungrafted 60-100 yo vineyards planted at the altitude of 650 m above sea level. Vinified in stainless steel, aged for 12 months in large oak casks and then for another 6 months in old French oak barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol. Lot no. 1/2020.
Beautifully luminous, youthful and moderately translucent dark garnet color. The nose feels ripe yet not particularly sweet-toned with aromas of black cherries, some forest floor, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light gamey nuances, a hint of ripe tomato or even tomato purée and a touch of mulberry. The wine feels dry, tough and quite sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense yet not particularly fruity flavors of fresh red plums, some forest floor, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gamey tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a savory touch of stewed Mediterranean herbs. The overall feel is quite structure-driven with the high acidity and firm medium-plus tannins that make the wine feel pretty grippy quite quickly. The finish is dry, long and moderately grippy and a somewhat angular aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and sour cherries, some forest floor, a little bit of stony minerality, light brambly notes of raspberries, a hint of tomato leaf and a touch of tobacco.
A nice, dead-serious Xinomavro that is maybe a bit on the austere side, but shows enough depth and complexity to keep things drinkable and enjoyable. The relatively lean, somewhat understated and not that ripe fruit department keeps sure that the wine never comes across as anything even remotely like a crowdpleaser. At the moment the wine isn't particularly approachable - at least not without food - and I doubt it will ever become anything particularly accessible, even if the tannins would resolve with further aging. Pretty good stuff, but really calls for food to round out its tough, angular nature. Priced according to its quality at approx. 22€.
(89 points) -
2018 Vaimaki Family Xinomavro Mater Natura 6 - Greece, Macedonia, Amyndaio (17.5.2023)
A naturalist Xinomavro vinified without any SO2. 12,5% alcohol. Total production 1500 bottles.
Somewhat translucent, dark plummy color with a somewhat evolved maroon hue. The nose feels dark-toned but also somewhat odd and vegetal with aromas of tilled soil and leafy greenness, some tomato stalk tones, a little bit of strawberry, light earthy notes, a hint of unripe raspberry, a touch of savory spices and a sweeter whiff of ripe black cherry. The wine feels firm, structured and somewhat tough on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of redcurrants and crowberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of tilled soil, light vegetal notes of leafy greenness, a hint of tobacco and a touch of earth. The wine is high in acidity with somewhat sparse yet still quite tough and angular tannins that lend moderate grip to the mouthfeel. The finish is dry and crunchy with rather firm and tough tannic grip and a rather long but also a bit vegetal aftertaste of tomato stalk, some crunchy red currant, light sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of unripe raspberry and a hint of earthy funk.
A rather tough, austere and surprisingly vegetal Xinomavro. Although I like Xinomavros that are structured and grippy, this wine didn't particularly balanced in that respect - the fruit department seemed a bit thin and austere, not really balancing out the high acidity and almost unripe tannins. Furthermore, the wine showed some odd vegetal tones that seemed a bit out of place. All in all, can't say this was a particularly successful effort.
(80 points) -
2017 Artisans Vignerons de Naoussa Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (17.5.2023)
100% organically farmed Xinomavro from 10 to 30 yo vineyards (averaging 25 yo). Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 25 days. Aged in old 500-liter demi-muids for 12 months. 13% alcohol. Lot number L0218W3.
Somewhat evolved pomegranate color. A bit restrained but also very attractive and complex nose with slightly evolved aromas of ripe blackcurrants, some wizened cherries and cooked strawberry tones, a little bit of tomato stalk, light funky animale nuances, a hint of fresh red plum, a touch of sun-dried tomatos and a whiff of herby meat stew. The wine is ripe yet fir and dry on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants and sour cherries, some juicy cherry tomato tones, a little bit of black raspberry, light funky notes of old leather, a hint of loose tobacco and a sweeter touch of wizened red fruits. Despite its ripeness, the wine feels very savory and quite stern throughout. The high acidity and rather assertive and grippy - but not aggressive - tannins make the wine feel very sinewy and structured. The finish is dry, long and grippy with a vibrant, juicy aftertaste of brambly black raspberries, some fresh blackcurrants, a little bit of old leather, light nuances of tobacco, a hint of ripe tomato and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A fantastic, quite intense and very savory Xinomavro made in an attractive, old-school style. Although there is some ripeness, the emphasis is not on fruit or accessibility - this is a tough, savory and somewhat bitter Xinomavro with those distinctive tomato nuances and a tiny bit of rustic funk. It's obvious that these co-operative fellows are not trying to make the most impressive or the most accessible Xinomavro, but instead the best and the most honest expression of this fine variety. In this wine you can see why Xinomavro is often compared to Nebbiolo, but at the same time it carries its own Greek identity with pride. The wine drinks pretty well right now, but I can see it evolving and improving for years more. Excellent stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2015 Argatia Xinomavro Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (17.5.2023)
100% organic Xinomavro sourced from vineyards in two villages: 50% in Lakka and 50% in Krasta. The fruit is crushed and cold-soaked for three days before fermentation. Aged in old American (50%) and French (50%) oak casks for 12 months. 13% alcohol. Total production 7000 bottles.
Moderately translucent, medium-deep ruby-red color with a subtly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels sweetish and fragrant with attractive, layered aromas of cherries and ripe red plums, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of cassis and strawberry, light floral nuances of violets, a hint of balsamic VA, a touch of tobacco and a whiff of freshly cooked licorice. The wine feels drier and more austere on the palate than the nose leads to expect. The overall feels is tough, very savory and medium-bodied with lean flavors of fresh red plums and bog bilberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of old oak, a hint of anise or fennel and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The structure relies both on the moderately high acidity and stern, assertive tannins. The finish is dry and grippy with a savory and rather long aftertaste of fresh red plums and cranberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light nuances of tobacco, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of anise.
A very stern and dead-serious Naoussa that has a lovely, fragrant and attractive nose and a taste that stands in stark contrast to the nose with the bone-dry, austere and quite bitter overall flavor profile that has very little room for fruit. However, The wine isn't aggressively lean or underwhelming - there is great sense of intensity and nuance here. The wine is just very tough and unapologetic in nature - really an antithesis to any fruit-forward crowdpleasers. I don't know if the wine is capable of resolving and evolving into something more approachable with age, but I don't see the wine falling apart anytime soon, either. This is a fine, structure-driven Xinomavro that just needs some hearty food to go with it, just to tone down some of that stern structure and bring some of that fruit more to the fore.
(90 points) -
2018 Thymiopoulos Kayafas Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (17.5.2023)
100% biodynamically farmed Xinomavro from the 45-yo Kayafas vineyard in the comune of Trilofos, located at the altitude of 180 m above sea level. 80% of the grapes are destemmed, 20% vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 40 days. Aged for 12 months in 2nd-use 500-liter French oak demi-muids. 13,5% alcohol. Lot number L150921. 13,5% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and quite youthful dark ruby color with a slightly evolved, dull maroon hue. The nose feels surprisingly sweetish and polished with aromas of ripe black raspberries and sweet black cherries, some vanilla tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light juicy nuances of dark plums, a hint of roasted meat and a fragrant touch of cloves. The wine feels ripe, juicy and sinewy on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of black raspberries, some fresh black cherries, a little bit of vanilla, light stony mineral notes, a toasty hint of mocha oak and a touch of sweet red plums. The overall feel is pretty structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and quite noticeably grippy with a long aftertaste of sweet black cherries and red plums, some leathery tones, a little bit of vanilla and cloves, light mocha oak tones, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of balsamic richness.
A serious and quality-driven Xinomavro, but I was honestly surprised how polished and oaky this wine seemed for a) a Thymiopoulos wine; b) for a wine that has not seen any new oak - at least according to the specs. The fruit intensity and sense of structure is definitely on point here, but with the ripe, sweet-toned edge of the fruit that gets somewhat accentuated by the toasty oak nuances and hints of vanilla, the wine still feels a bit awkward to me. However, as the wine seems pretty much built for aging, I can see this wine benefiting greatly from additional years in a cellar. While a nice wine in its own right, this wine was still a step or a few behind from the 2018 vintage of Vrana Petra that we tasted at the same time. While this Kayafas showed a bit more tannic structure than Vrana Petra, it otherwise didn't seem to reach the same level of harmony, depth and finesse. However, had this wine shown less obvious oak influence, it might've been my favorite over Vrana Petra!
(91 points) -
2018 Thymiopoulos Vrana Petra Naoussa - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (17.5.2023)
100% biodynamically farmed Xinomavro from the 24-yo Vrana Petra vineyard in the comune of Trilofos, located at the altitude of 200 m above sea level. 50% of the grapes are destemmed, 50% vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 30 days. Aged for 12 months in 2nd-use 500-liter French oak demi-muids. 13,5% alcohol. Lot number L170921. 14% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and a bit evolved pomegranate color. The nose feels fruit-forward and somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of almost Pinot Noir-like raspberry and cherry, some wild strawberry tones, light smoky notes of toasty character, light cranberry nuances, oaky hints of vanilla and cloves and a touch of earth. The wine feels ripe and dense yet still quite airy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and dry-ish flavors of black raspberries and Bing cherries, some juicy red plum tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light savory notes of meaty umami, oaky hints of cloves and vanilla and a touch of salty liquorice. The overall feel is firm and quite muscular yet not too aggressive with the rather high acidity and ripe yet moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, complex and moderately grippy with an intense aftertaste of ripe cherries and ripe black raspberries, some meaty notes of umami, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light oaky nuances of vanilla and sweet toasty character, a hint of cigar and a touch of new leather.
A very harmonious, attractive and elegant Xinomavro. Although a fine wine in its own right, this still doesn't scream "Xinomavro" to me - instead the wine feels more like a missing link between a Barbaresco and a red Burgundy with its aromatics that are pretty similar to those of Pinot Noir, combined with the mouthfeel and structure of a Nebbiolo. Surprisingly for a Thymiopoulos wine - and one that doesn't see any new oak - the wine does show some toasty oak qualities, which I'm not a big fan of. However, tasting this wine next to 2018 Thymipoulos Kayafas, this wine shows less oak influence and more sense of depth and harmony. The tannins don't seem to be as firm and assertive here as they are in Kayafas, but true to the variety, the wine still is nevertheless pretty tannic and grippy. All in all, this is a fine and lovely wine that could use some additional age to integrate those oakier nuances fully with the nuanced and quite ripe yet not particularly sweet-toned fruit. Lovely stuff with lots of upside.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
Haven’t opened one yet, but am planning to!