Seeing how it’s pretty cold (-15°C / 5°F) and snowy here at the moment, it’s pretty obvious nothing has been grilled anywhere in the recent past.
But in last July, a friend of mine invited a bunch of guys over to eat and drink. He grilled away and supplied us a fine bunch of terrific wines while we were just sitting there, enjoying the relative warmth of the Finnish summer evening and everything edible or imbibable we were offered.
I also brought one wine with me: that Heid Lemberger. While it had an odd nose, it turned out to be a lovely little red on the palate!
- 2018 Domaine du Pélican Savagnin Arbois Maceration Pelliculaire - France, Jura, Arbois (22.7.2023)
The debut vintage of this label: Domaine du Pélican experimented with Savagnin by letting it macerate for 10 days with the skins during the fermentation, then racked off the skins, pressed and blended. Aged in two old 228-liter Burgundy pièces and stainless steel tanks. 13,5% alcohol. Total production 1700 bottles.
Quite deep and luminous golden yellow color. The nose feels fragrant, sweetish and somewhat waxy with aromas of peach, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light apple jam tones, a hint of tangerine marmalade and a rich, buttery streak of diacetyl. The wine feels dry, firm and relatively balanced on the palate with a medium body and nuanced flavors of stony minerality, some ripe Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light skin-contact nuances of waxy extractive character and phenolic spice, oaky hints of creaminess and melting butter and a touch of herby spice. The mouthfeel is somewhat rich and textural, but the rather high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is ripe, nuanced and quite long with a dry aftertaste of juicy golden apples, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light creamy oak tones, a hint of ripe tangerine and a touch of resinous phenolic character.
A nice, sophisticated and very "conventional" effort for an orange wine. This isn't a cloudy, natty, excessively volatile or oxidative skin-contact wine, but instead a very classically built wine that just happens to be an orange wine. The flavors are not that of a white Savagnin, but they veer closer to a white rather than a red wine; the structure and texture, on the other hand, are much closer to a red wine, but the high acidity still reminds that this is a Savagnin, after all. The only thing that bothers me a little is that streak of rather buttery diacetyl, which sticks out a bit at times. I doubt diacetyl will disappear from the bottle with any age, but it can either be bottle variation, or it can be something that integrates with the other flavors as the wine ages - and it feels this wine could actually age and improve, not just keep. All in all, it was a nice change to drink an amber wine that seemed like a "normal" wine, not just a funky, natty creature!
(91 points) - 2010 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (22.7.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from thee vineyards in Vosne-Romanée: Aux Réas, Bossières, and Mezière. The fruit is first cold-soaked for approximately 3 days, then fermented spontaneously and macerated for 3 weeks. Aged for 18-24 months in oak barrels, of which up to 1/3 are renewed annually. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite translucent and still surprisingly youthful, luminous garnet color. The nose feels somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of ripe black cherries, some meaty tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light juicy notes of red plums, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of wood. The wine feels dry, bright and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of redcurrants and brambly raspberries, some savory woody tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light tart nuances of lingonberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The overall feel is enjoyably firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and fresh redcurrants, some earthy tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light sweeter nuances of ripe red plums and a hint of toasty oak spice.
A nice, firm and still quite youthful Vosne-Romanée. The wine is admirably youthful for a village-level Burgundy a dozen years old, making me think this wine will continue to evolve and improve just wonderfully for another 10 to 15 years. Thoroughly enjoyable stuff with great sense of finesse, structure and typicity. Good value at 29€.
(92 points) - 2015 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (22.7.2023)
100% Syrah from 25 to 60 yo vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage. All the parcels are vinified separately over 15 days in concrete tanks and oak vats. Aged in new oak barrels (50%) and demi-muids or used, neutral oak barrels (50%) for 18 months. 13% alcohol.
Dark, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a purplish hue. The nose feels dark-toned, somewhat sweet-toned and a bit polished with rich aromas of juicy blackberries, some crushed peppercorns, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light ripe raspberry nuances, a hint of inky character and a faint creamy touch of diacetyl. The wine feels ripe, dense and juicy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and dark-toned flavors of succulent blackberries, some crushed peppercorns, a little bit of gamey meat, light toasty notes of sweet mocha oak, crunchy hints of chokeberries and fresh black raspberries and a ferrous touch of blood. The wine is wonderfully high in acidity with the firm medium-plus tannins bringing additional grip and structure to the mouthfeel. The finish is dry, crunchy and moderately grippy with a long, juicy aftertaste of ripe blackberries and brambly black raspberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light peppery tones, a hint of tart chokeberry and a toasty touch of sweet mocha oak.
A surprisingly fresh, firm and crunchy effort for a 2015 Northern Rhône, showing great sense of precision and acidity. The overall feel is still rather toasty and oaky, but based on how relatively little age the wine shows now, at 8 years of age, I can imagine the wine will continue to age effortlessly for many years more. Although the wine probably won't be shedding all its oak, no matter how long it is aged, I can still imagine the sweeter and more toasty notes will integrate with the fruit over time. Although maybe a bit too modern and polished for my preference at the moment, I expect this wine will much better at 15 years of age. However, I still wish the producer would make the wines with less oak influence - I feel there's a terrific wine underneath, but the sweet and toasty mocha oak tones don't really complement that.
(90 points) - 2016 Societa Agricola NOAH Bramaterra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Bramaterra (22.7.2023)
A blend of Nebbiolo (80%), Croatina (10%), Uva Rara (5%) and Vespolina (5%) from vineyards averaging 25 years old. Aged in old, large oak casks. 14% alcohol.
Youthful, somewhat translucent and quite dark blood-red color. The nose feels fragrant and attractive with harmonious and somewhat youthful aromas of raspberry jellies and cherry marmalade, some allspice, a little bit of anise, light floral nuances of roses and violets, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of earth. The wine feels dry, youthful and very firm on the palate with a medium body and focused flavors of raspberry marmalade and fresh red cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of allspice, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of ripe redcurrant and a floral touch of dried roses. The structure relies more on the high acidity rather than on the firm yet quite sparse tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is clean, dry and nuanced with a long aftertaste of brambly raspberries and sour cherry bitterness, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light floral nuances, a hint of tobacco and a touch of sweeter red-toned fruit.
A wonderfully tasty, vibrant and classically styled Alto Piemonte red. The nsoe was surprisingly youthful - even primary - considering how the wine was almost 7 years old, but on the palate the wine was nothing but on point. I'm sure this wine will continue to age and evolve for many, many years more (based on how the wine seems to have evolved so very little for its age), but seeing the wine isn't particularly tough or aggressive but instead very accessible already, the wine doesn't really require any additional aging. Drink or keep. This is just lovely stuff.
(93 points) - 1996 Scarpa Barbera d'Asti Bricchi de Castelrocchero - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti (22.7.2023)
A bottle sourced straight from the estate cellars. Bottle no. 5074 of total 7687 bottles.13% alcohol.
Translucent, moderately deep dark cherry red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels old and meaty with dark-toned aromas of wizened dark berries, some tobacco, light sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of sweet raisiny fruit, a sharp hint of rancio and a touch of soy sauce. The wine feels aged, savory and a bit thin on the palate with a light body and very evolved flavors of tobacco and tart lingonberry, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of saline tang, light sharp notes of green apples, a hint of crunchy crowberry and a touch of charred bacon and even bacon grease. The wine is very high in acidity but there are no tannins to speak of. The finish is light, dry and very acid-driven with a long, aged aftertaste of crunchy cranberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light sharp notes of crowberries and green apple, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a sweeter touch of dried dark fruits.
A light and somewhat thin Barbera that is already going downhill. The overall feel is pretty light, thin and even slightly shrill, but I can imagine I might've found the wine still pretty wonderful when it still exhibited youthful, vibrant fruit. However, now oxidation seems to have started to creep in, resulting in a somewhat tired and a bit raisiny fruit profile along with oxidative nuances of rancio and soy sauce. While the wine is still thoroughly drinkable and pretty enjoyable, I feel it has seen better days and isn't in as good shape as it has been when it was on its peak. High time to drink up.
(83 points) - 2015 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (22.7.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from 1er Cru vineyard Les Suchots. The fruit is first cold-soaked for approximately 3 days, then fermented spontaneously and macerated for 3 weeks. Aged for 18-24 months in oak barrels, of which up to 1/3 are renewed annually. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, moderately dark and relatively little translucent cherry-red color. The nose feels open, fragrant and attractive with aromas of violets and raspberry candies, some elderberry juice tones, a little bit of fivespice, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of ripe boysenberry and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The wine feels dry, clean and moderately ripe on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of raspberries and ripe cranberries, some elderberry tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light fragrant nuances of violets and fivespice, sweeter hints of boysenberries and purple fruits and a touch of wood. The overall feel is firm and balanced with a high level of acidity and ripe medium tannins. The finish is dry, fresh and gently grippy with a long, vibrant aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some floral notes of violets and elderflower, light sweeter nuances of black raspberries and boysenberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of woody spice and a touch of fivespice.
A fine, harmonious and attractive Vosne-Romanée with so much nuance and a relatively fragrant, floral overall feel. The wine feels a tad too youthful at the moment, being very much about rather up-front fruit and subtly oaky nuances, but I can imagine the wine will develop more finesse and aromatic balance as it ages. I'd say on a qualitative level this wine was more or less as good as the 2010 Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée we tasted at the same time, but this wine has potential to develop into something greater with enough age. Although the wine is very accessible already now, I'd let it evolve for a good handful of years more, as it still shows so much upside. However, at 79€, I feel the wine is a tad expensive for the quality.
(92 points) - 2013 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Gramolere - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (22.7.2023)
100% Nebbiolo from a 35-yo parcel in the Gramolere cru in Monforte d'Alba. Fermented and macerated with the skins for 30 to 40 days. Aged for approximately 3 years in old botti casks, then blended together and left to marry for a few months in concrete tanks. 14% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and only slightly translucent blood-red color. The nose feels rather ripe and somewhat dark-toned with bold aromas of sweet black cherries, some licorice root, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light gamey notes of meat, perfumed hints of dried flowers and potpourri and a touch of fresh red plums. The wine feels ripe yet dry and savory on the palate with a full body and quite bold flavors of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some gravelly earthy tones, a little bit of tobacco, light oxidative nuances of beef jerky or salt-cured port, a hint of ripe cranberry and a touch of peppery spice. The overall feels is pretty stern and structured, thanks to the high acidity and quite grippy yet not tough or aggressive tannins. The finish is dry and grippy with a long and quite intense aftertaste of sour cherries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light tart notes of lingonberries, a hint of tobacco and an oxidative touch of beef jerky.
A classically styled, rather structure-driven and somewhat bold yet still very harmonious single-vineyard Barolo. I felt somewhat surprised how the wine was starting to show some evolved, subtly oxidative tones already now, as most 2013 Barolos I've tasted have still been super youthful and still miles away from their optimal drinking window. I wouldn't say this wine is peaking now - and probably it needs still many more years to reach its apogee - but nevertheless the wine felt somewhat more advanced than what I expected. Although the wine was somewhat dark-toned and more fruit-driven than austere, I really don't understand how multiple tasting notes have described the wine coming across as more modern rather than traditional. To me, this feels pretty much traditional - if only somewhat ripe-fruited. But that should be nothing new in the 2010's and 2020's.
(91 points) - 2018 Rall Cinsault - South Africa, Coastal Region (22.7.2023)
100% Cinsaut from two vineyards planted in 1952 and 1982: Swartland (60%) and Darling (40%). The fruit from Darling vineyard is vinified in whole bunches and aged in concrete, whereas half of the fruit from Swartland is destemmed and then aged in old, neutral oak barrels. All spontaneously fermented. Bottled after 6-7 months. 12% alcohol.
Youthful, quite translucent raspberry red color with an almost colorless rim. The open, expressive nose feels very floral and perfumed with fragrant, slightly wild aromas of brambly raspberries, some crunchy lingonberries, a little bit of wild sweet flowers, light zesty chinotto tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of ripe Bing cherry. The wine feels lively, fresh and playful on the palate with a medium body youthful, acid-driven flavors of fresh cherries and tart lingonberries, some wild, fragrant notes of Campari-like chinotto, light crunchy crowberry notes, a little bit of exotic spices, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of wild strawberry. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, but the light, gently grippy tannins bring some firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is dry, long and slightly grippy with a juicy aftertaste of raspberries and strawberries, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light wild lifted nuances of chinotto zest and phenolic spice, a hint of sour red plum and a touch of smoke.
A delightful little red brimming with freshness, perfume and character. The wine has been likened to a "South African Beaujolais", and although I didn't find this wine that similar to a typical Beaujolais, I do love both a fresh and light Beaujolais and this wine. This is playful yet serious, flimsy yet firm. Maybe not really a wine to be aged for a long time, but most likely this wine will not just keep but evolve for at least a handful of years more. Terrific stuff and a wonderful weekday red from the lighter end of the spectrum. Recommended.
(91 points) - 2021 Weingut Heid Lemberger Gutswein Trocken - Germany, Württemberg (22.7.2023)
100% organically farmed Lemberger aka. Blaufränkisch. 12,5% alcohol.
Moderately translucent blood-red color. The nose feels characterful, dark-toned and somewhat meaty with distinctive, savory aromas of blueberries and bouillon cubes, some cooked root vegetable tones, a little bit of sweet spices, light dark plummy nuances, a hint of mulberry and a touch of crunchy dark berries. The wine feels fresh, brisk and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and dry, acid-driven flavors of tart lingonberries and crowberries, some red gooseberries, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light sweeter notes of bilberries and ripe redcurrants, a hint of earthy spice and a savory touch of meaty umami. The wine is noticeably high in acidity with quite light and gentle medium-minus tannins. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with an acid-driven aftertaste of tart lingonberries and redcurrants, some crowberries, a little bit of red gooseberry, light sweeter strawberry tones, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of mulberry.
A tasty but also very distinctive - even odd - and noticeably acid-driven effort that comes across as super youthful and fruit-driven, yet not at all primary. The nose was very idiosyncratic - maybe even too much for some people - but on the palate the wine seemed much more "conventional" with its bright, fruit-driven overall feel. However, the acidity here was surprisingly high, making the wine come across as almost white wine-like with its zippy acid structure. Although a bit weird for a Blaufränkisch, this was still a thoroughly enjoyable little wine - as long as one enjoys lightweight, acid-driven reds. It's hard to assess whether this wine will evolve into something more distinctive or not, but it is in a great spot already this young. Solid value at just 9€.
(88 points) - 2020 Fanny Sabre Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (22.7.2023)
100% biodynamically farmed Aligoté. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. Aged for at least 6 months in old oak barrels. 12% alcohol.
Pale, youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, sweet-toned and both crisp and stuffy at the same time with aromas of red apples and juicy pear tones, some creamy notes suggesting oak aging, light reductive notes of flinty smoke, a little bit of nectarine, a skunky hint of sulfurous reduction and a touch of zesty citrus fruit. The wine feels crisp, lively and quite acid-driven on the palate with a light-to-medium body and ripe yet dry flavors of lemony citrus fruits and saline mineral tones, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of key lime, light leesy notes of creaminess, a hint of sweet oak spice and a smoky touch of reduction. The brisk acidity lends good sense of focus and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, fresh and lively with a long, dry aftertaste of Granny Smith apple and lemony citrus fruits, some leesy notes of creaminess, light reductive nuances of gunpowder smoke, a zesty hint of key lime and a touch of stony minerality.
A lovely, very crisp and wonderfully lively Aligoté with great sense of intensity, depth and structure. The oak influence lends a little bit of creamy complexity without really obfuscating any of the brisk, acid-driven varietal flavors of Aligoté. The overall feel is still a bit reductive, and especially the nose had a slightly stuffy, skunky element to it - but based on the brisk vibrancy, I have no doubts this wine is able to age enough to lose that reduction. If opened now or in the near future, I suggest aerating the wine for some time. All in all, a pretty lovely and quite serious effort for this often overlooked variety.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker