A friend of mine has been quite enamored by the Californian Pinot Noir scene, especially the wines that come from the cooler climates of California. Last fall he arranged a wine tasting on the theme of “Three Santas”, as the lineup consisted of wines that came from three “Santa” AVAs: Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Maria Valley and Santa Rita Hills (or Sta Rita Hills, as they are currently known).
I guess I don’t need to write any introductions to the wines we tasted, since probably most of you guys know these wineries much better than I do. Anyway, it was a great opportunity to taste several Arcadian wines at one go, since the winery has accumulated quite a bit of fame, but their wines are very hard to come by on this side of the pond. The best wines of Melville and Samsara were terrific, too, yet they didn’t really have the depth and complexity found in the Arcadian wines.
After the tasting we had also a bunch of blinds for the fun of it, as is quite usual for our wino gang. Unfortunately the Alessandro Rivetto Nebbiolo bottle disappeared before I took any photos, so that is missing from the lineup picture. I also need to add here that this Nebbiolo really showed some amazing value! I’m not really a big fan of Langhe Nebbiolo, as nowadays these wines can cost as much as a good Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte, yet they very rarely reach the same level of quality. This wine, on the other hand, was just dirt cheap, yet punching way above its weight for a “lowly” entry-level Nebbiolo. Truly a bargain if there ever was one!
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The tasting proper:
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2010 Melville Chardonnay Estate Clone 76 - Inox - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
This wine is made not with any Chardonnay clones, but solely with Chardonnay Clone 76. The “Inox” part means the wine is fermented and aged only in stainless steel, so it doesn’t see any oak during the vinification. 14,5% alcohol.
Still surprisingly youthful pale yellow-green color. Clean and relatively youthful nose with bright aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some ripe grapefruit tones, a little bit of smoky reduction and a developed hint of nutty complexity. The wine feels ripe, youthful and quite lively on the palate with a medium body and clean flavors of juicy golden apples, some nectarine, light sweet notes of white peach, a little bit of leesy richness and a hint of steely minerality. The acidity feels high at first, but there’s a hint of zippy, crisp character here making me think the wine has a tiniest bit of CO2, as the acidity feels somewhat lower - albeit still quite high - after a little while. The finish is fresh, clean and quite refreshing with moderately long flavors of crunchy Golden Delicious apple, some juicy citrus fruit notes of lemon and pomelo, light leesy tones, a little bit of steely minerality and an evolved, nutty hint of slivered almonds.
A lovely, bright and precise California Chardonnay made in a style more reminiscent of Chablis than classic, rich and buttery Cali Chard - although the wine is admittedly slightly more ripe than your typical Chablis. What surprised me the most here, however, how remarkably youthful the wine still is now at 11 years of age, showing just a little bit of developed nuttiness, otherwise coming across as very bright, precise and fruit-forward, lacking any oxidative or tired qualities. A very nice effort, priced according to its quality at 34,50€. (91 pts.)
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2005 Arcadian Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (23.10.2021)
13,3% alcohol.
Very evolved and quite deep golden-yellow color with a pale bronze color. Big, sweetish and quite captivating nose with evolved aromas of bruised apple, peanut butter, some creamy notes of panna cotta, light honeyed nuances, a little bit of ripe nectarine, a hint of tomato stalk and a touch of canned pineapple. The wine is ripe, evolved and wonderfully complex on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with layered flavors of browned butter, bruised apple, some peanut butter, a little bit of sweet caramel oak, light pineapple tones, a hint of ripe apricot and a touch of cooked cream. The surprisingly high acidity lends great sense of freshness, structure and precision to the wine. The finish is lively, long and harmonious with complex flavors of nectarine and pineapple, some creamy oak, light evolved notes of browned butter and bruised apple, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of roasted nuts.
A complex and beautifully evolved California Chardonnay that shows surprising freshness and sense of harmony. From the nose I expected the wine to be a lush, heavy and ponderous butter bomb, but instead it turned out to be surprisingly lithe, precise and - in lack of better word - very Burgundian on the palate. Many people in the tasting commented how they’d love to have the wine served blind in a tasting of older white Burgundies. The wine certainly shows some exotic notes and ripeness, but not to the extent of being outside of what’s typical for a warmer-vintage Burgundy. All in all, a terrific and immensely enjoyable effort. A very complete wine; this was a steal for its quality at 39€. (94 pts.)
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2013 Melville Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
A selection of different Chardonnay clones sourced from multiple vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills. Fermented and aged for 8 months in used, neutral (5 to 20 years old) French oak barrels. No MLF, no bâtonnage. 14% alcohol.
Pale lime-green color. Bright but also surprisingly restrained nose with understated aromas of green apples, some lemony citrus fruit notes, a little bit of leesy character, light stony mineral notes and a developed nutty hint of slivered almonds. The wine feels ripe, broad and juicy on the palate with a moderately full body and quite ripe but also slightly reticent flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple, some white peach, light almondy tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess and a hint of chalk dust. Despite its quite full body and ripe overall character, the wine comes across enjoyably balanced, thanks to its quite high acidity. The finish is ripe, long and juicy with vibrant flavors of sweet white peach, some golden apple tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light stony mineral notes and a hint of slivered almonds.
A balanced, tasty and enjoyably fresh California Chardonnay where the emphasis is on the brightness of the fruit, not on the weight and massive oak influence. However, the nose here is remarkably understated and also the flavors are a bit muted, lending a somewhat linear and slightly underwhelming feel to the wine. Tasting this side-by-side with the 2010 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay that was aged in stainless steel, this wine shows slightly more complexity, but otherwise comes across as somewhat less impressive compared to the Clone 76. It’s hard to say whether the wine was in a dumb phase, starting to fade away or if we just had a slightly dud bottle. This was good, but nothing too thrilling. Priced according to its quality at 29€. (89 pts.)
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2005 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie’s - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
Made with Pinot Noir Dijon clones 114 and 115. Typically made with partially destemmed (1/3 to 2/3) fruit, first cold-soaked for a week, then fermented in open-top fermentors for approximately two weeks, followed by another week of post-fermentation maceration, totaling to a month of skin maceration. Aged in oak barrels, of which a small portion were new. 15,3% alcohol.
Deep and somewhat evolved pomegranate red color with relatively little translucency for a Pinot Noir. Seductive, somewhat sweet-toned and very harmonious nose of strawberries and slightly wizened red cherries, some meaty Pinosity, a little bit of savory wood spice, light evolved notes of tomato paste, a hint of pomegranate, a touch of chopped beet and a fragrant, stemmy whiff of lifted greenness. The wine is ripe, juicy and moderately full-bodied on the palate with a silky texture and quite ripe flavors of cherries, gamey meat, some earthy Pinosity, a little bit of cranberry sauce, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a hint of ripe strawberry and a savory touch of woody spice. The overall feel is very elegant, textural and balanced, thanks to the moderately high acidity and gentle, manicured tannins. The finish is ripe, long and savory with complex flavors of cranberry sauce, some gamey tones, light autumnal notes of earthy Pinosity and damp leaves, a little bit of ferrous blood, a hint of rich, developed umami character and a touch of sweet strawberry.
A very harmonious, rich and beautifully textural Pinot Noir that carries its remarkably high alcohol surprisingly well - I tried to take note of it, but as the wine was served cool enough, the alcohol remained completely hidden by the fruit and body. Even everybody else commented on how the wine felt lower in alcohol than what the label suggested. All in all, the wine shows very typical 2005 Cali Pinot character in its fragrant, almost exuberant fruit notes, obvious ripeness and stunning balance that makes sure the wine never comes across as heavy or ponderous even though it is quite big in size. Seeing how full of vibrant fruit the wine is, I can imagine it will not only keep, but also continue to improve for a good number of years more. Terrific stuff, priced according to its quality at 52€. Recommended. (93 pts.)
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2012 Melville Pinot Noir Estate Sandy’s - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.9.2021)
Made with Pinot Noir Dijon clones 90, 114, 459 and clonal material from Merry Edwards. Made with partially destemmed (60%) fruit, first cold-soaked for a week, then fermented in small open-top fermentors for approximately two weeks, followed by another week of post-fermentation maceration, totaling to a month of skin maceration. Aged in old (10-20 yo) French oak barrels. 15% alcohol. Total production 384 cases.
Slightly evolved and somewhat translucent raspberry red color. Fragrant and quite sweet-toned nose with aromas of wild strawberries and cranberry sauce, some wizened cherry tones, light floral notes of violets, a little bit of tomato stalk, a savory hint of woody spice and a darker-toned touch of toasty oak spice. The wine feels ripe, savory and juicy on the palate with a moderately full body and somewhat brooding, dark-toned flavors of sweet black raspberries, some meaty umami tones, a little bit of marmaladey red fruit, light floral notes of violets, a hint of strawberry jam and a touch of savory wood spice. The overall feel is silky in texture, but perhaps a bit soft in structure, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity - although the medium tannins bring some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The alcohol lends a little bit of heat to the palate. The finish is savory, gently grippy and subtly warm with long flavors of meaty umami, some savory woody tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light strawberry and black raspberry nuances, a sweet hint of cherry marmalade and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A rich, fruity and noticeably ripe Pinot Noir that has a good deal of fruit and depth of flavor, but is perhaps a bit too big and ripe for my preference. The wine is far from being overripe, but this kind of rather big, quite sweet-toned and high-alcohol Pinot Noir isn’t really my cup of tea - it lacks the freshness and finesse I look for in Pinot Noir, coming across as more like a Grenache in character. Perhaps some further aging might help in getting the wine more into balance, as the 2005 Melville Carrie’s Pinot Noir that was tasted alongside was even higher in alcohol and felt more or less similar in ripeness, yet it came across as much more harmonious and enjoyable when tasting the wine comparatively one after another. This wine was good, but ultimately nothing that would blow my socks off. Feels way too pricey for the quality at 52,50€. (88 pts.)
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2014 Samsara Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
Made with fruit sourced from multiple vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills. About half of the fruit is destemmed and then crushed by foot, the rest vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged in 500-liter French oak demi-muids, a small portion of which were new. 14,1% alcohol.
Moderately translucent raspberry red color with a slightly evolved plummy hue. Clean, fruity and wonderfully pure nose with aromas of ripe cranberries and juicy cherries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of meaty Pinosity. The wine feels ripe, silky and quite gentle yet still pleasantly firm on the palate with flavors of ripe cherries and wild strawberries, tart cranberries, some meaty umami, light savory wood tones, a little bit of stony minerality and a hint of brambly black raspberry. The finish is long and juicy with ripe yet dry flavors of wild strawberries and savory meaty tones, some sweeter nuances of wizened cherries, light brambly raspberry nuances, a little bit of meaty umami, a hint of earthy Pinosity and a ferrous touch of blood.
A wonderfully fresh, clean and precise California Pinot that manages to combine some very lovely cool-climate poise and freshness with sunnier fruit notes of classic California ripeness. In our tasting this wine felt a bit more straightforward and perhaps lacking a bit in depth when compared to the other, more impressive California Pinot Noirs we tasted, but at the same time this wine showed such purity and focus that very few wines managed to match. As the wine shows very little tertiary qualities at this phase, I can imagine this wine could age wonderfully for a decade or more, picking some additional complexity on the way. All in all, a lovely and thoroughly enjoyable effort. Perhaps a tad expensive for the quality at 37,50€, but not excessively so. (89 pts.)
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2010 Samsara Pinot Noir Rancho la Viña Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
Made with Clone 114 Pinot fruit sourced from Rancho la Viña vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills, known to be some of the coldest spots in California for Pinot Noir growing. About half of the fruit is destemmed and then crushed by foot, the rest vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged in 500-liter French oak demi-muids, a small portion of which were new. 14,4% alcohol. Only some 96 cases made.
Exceptionally dark and opaque blackish-red color for a Pinot Noir with an evolved dried-blood hue. Very powerful, dark-toned and noticeably ripe nose with brooding aromas of sweet dark fruits, some herbaceous notes of tomato leaf, light wizened red fruit tones, a little bit of licorice, a boozy hint of alcohol, a medicinal touch of something odd, maybe penicillin, and a whiff of grated beet root. The wine is dense, concentrated and powerful on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of black cherries, some evolved meaty tones, a little bit of grated beet, light plummy tones, a hint of raisiny dark fruit and a touch of alcohol warmth. The structure relies as much on the high acidity as on the assertive, extracted and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, slightly warm and moderately grippy with bold flavors of wizened dark fruits, some beet root notes, a little bit of tomato leaf, light raisiny tones and a meaty hint of umami.
A very powerful and rather weird California Pinot Noir that felt surprisingly little like Pinot Noir. Although this is supposed to be a cool-climate Pinot, this tasted and drank more like a Grenache or GSM blend with its big body, surprisingly dark-toned fruit, high alcohol and quite assertive tannins. Even the color was very atypical for the variety. Although impressive in its own right, I wasn’t too thrilled about this wine - I really don’t like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and this wine reminded me more of CdP than Burgundy. In our flight of three aged Samsara Pinot Noirs, I found this wine by far the least likeable. Although I can understand why the wine is priced at 46,90€, I find it quite expensive for the quality - you can get both a decent village Burgundy and a solid Rhône GSM at the same cost. (86 pts.)
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2012 Samsara Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
Made with Clone 115 Pinot fruit sourced from Rancho la Viña vineyard that was planted in 1998 in Sta. Rita Hills. Only a quarter of the fruit is destemmed and then crushed by foot, 75% vinified in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 22 months in 500-liter French oak demi-muids, half of which were new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered 14,1% alcohol, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,55. Only some 100 cases made.
Moderately translucent cherry red color with a slightly evolved blood-red hue. Savory and slightly restrained nose with aromas of black raspberries, some meaty Pinosity, a little bit of licorice root, light cherry tones, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of cooked carrot. The wine is ripe, juicy and moderately full-bodied on the palate with flavors of very ripe black cherries, some meaty tones, a little bit of licorice, light sweet notes of succulent dark plums, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of savory umami. The moderately high acidity and quite ample and rather grippy yet not aggressive tannins make the wine feel rather structured and pretty tightly-knit. The finish is long, warm and quite grippy with rather powerful flavors of licorice, meaty umami, some brambly black raspberries, light evolved notes of sweet, wizened cherries, a little bit of savory wood spice and a hint of earthy Pinosity.
A rather big and perhaps a bit clumsy, but also enjoyably firm, structured and complex Cali Pinot. This is supposed to be a cool-climate Pinot Noir, but from a Burgundian perspective the wine feels rather substantial, ripe and extracted - yet it doesn’t feel overdone or unbalanced. A bit polished, maybe, but nothing that would distract from the pleasure. I like my Pinot Noirs lighter, more playful and lower in alcohol, but I still have to admit that for a bigger Pinot, this is a pretty good effort. I found the entry-level Samsara Sta. Rita Hills Pinot a bit more enjoyable with its freshness and focus, but for the fans of bigger-style Pinot, I’m sure this will deliver. Perhaps a bit pricey at 54€, though. (90 pts.)
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2006 Arcadian Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley (23.10.2021)
13,8% alcohol, 6,1 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep, somewhat evolved dark cherry color with a pale brick-orange rim. Very rustic and noticeably bretty nose with funky aromas of leathery lambic character, some farmhouse funk, light cherry tones, a little bit of ripe raspberry, a smoky hint of phenolic spice and a touch of stony minerality. Some might find the nose unclean and disagreeable, but I myself don’t mind brett one bit, but instead loved the funky farmhouse nuances. The wine is juicy, firm and enjoyably sauvage on the palate with a medium body and moderately funky flavors of pronounced bretty leather character, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light bitter nuances of phenolic spice, a hint of exotic spices and an evolved touch of soft, wizened strawberries. Good sense of balance here, thanks to the rather high acidity and quite resolved, silky tannins. The finish is savory, quite dry and slightly funky with flavors of wild strawberries, some bretty notes of barnyard and leathery lambic-like character, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light smoky notes of phenolic spice, a bitter hint of sour cherries and a touch of earth. The tannins lend a tiny bit of grip to the aftertaste.
A lovely, firm and harmonious California Pinot with a noticeably funky streak of brett that was pretty obvious right from the first sniff - yet the wine wasn’t excessively rustic, but instead quite sophisticated and stylish with just a right dose of farmhouse funk. Among the four Arcadian Pinots we had, this was the only one that showed any bretty character, and there were no two ways about it: this had a good deal of bretty funk here, reminding me very much of the classic Gueuze beers I love - which also tend to be quite bretty as well. All in all, this was a very enjoyable and positively honest, unpolished example of California Pinot. Although the wine does show some evolved, tertiary qualities, it is still brimming with life, vibrant fruit and potential for further development. Enjoy now or keep for another 10-15 years. Great value at 42€. (93 pts.)
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2006 Arcadian Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (23.10.2021)
14,2% alcohol.
Medium-deep, somewhat evolved brick-red color. Savory and surprisingly restrained - even closed - nose with aromas of licorice root, loamy earth, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of dark forest fruits and a hint of game. There’s very little in the way of fruit and the overall impression is a bit on the dull side. The wine feels ripe and silky yet dry on the palate with a medium body and somewhat restrained flavors of ripe blackberries, some loamy earth tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light toasty oak tones, a hint of old leather and a touch of licorice root. The wine is rather structured with its quite high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins, but the rather understated fruit makes the wine come across more stern and tightly-knit than it would be with more expressive fruit. The finish is dry, somewhat grippy and slightly evolved with medium-long flavors of raspberries, some loamy earth, a little bit of wild strawberry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of licorice and a touch of old leather.
In a flight of four Arcadian Pinots from 2006 and 2007, this was by far the least impressive (and expressive) label. Some of us wondered if the wine was in sound condition because it was so noticeably different from the other bottles, but since there didn’t seem to be anything off and the wine slowly opened up (not much) with air, we deduced that the wine most likely performed as it was supposed to. All in all, lacking freshness, vibrant fruit and precision at this point, coming across as a bit dull and underwhelming. Not bad in any way, but seeing how wonderful the other Arcadian wines were, this was a dud in comparison. Very much overpriced for the quality at 48€. (87 pts.)
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2007 Arcadian Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (23.10.2021)
13,9% alcohol.
Deep yet moderately translucent dark cherry red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue and a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels ripe, sunny and sweet-toned yet counterpointed with a more savory evolved note. Expressive aromas of dark forest fruits and brambly blackberries, some leathery notes, light floral nuances of violets, a little bit of wizened black cherry, a hint of earthy Pinosity and a touch of cigar box. The wine is silky, savory and beautifully textural on the palate with flavors of game and brambly black raspberries, some leathery notes, a little bit of ferrous blood, light stony mineral notes, a sweet hint of wizened dark fruits and a touch of meaty umami. Good sense of structure with the quite high acidity and somewhat resolved yet still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is savory, very long and surprisingly grippy with powerful, complex flavors of brambly black raspberries, some meaty umami, light leathery notes, a little bit of earthy Pinosity, a sweeter hint of darker-toned juicy fruits and a touch of roasted game.
A very impressive, complex and surprisingly structured California Pinot that you wouldn’t confuse for Burgundy, yet one that manages to avoid all the typical pitfalls of Cali Pinot. Lots of ripe yet savory fruit here, backed up with impressive structure that never feels too extracted or aggressive, but perfectly in line with the body and fruit. And despite the ripeness, the wine doesn’t feel particularly soft or sweet, but instead firm, dry and savory. In a terrific spot right now, but will continue to keep - if not improve - for many years more. Superb value at 46,50€. (94 pts.)
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2007 Arcadian Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (23.10.2021)
13,8% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity.
Medium-deep, moderately translucent raspberry red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. Ripe, juicy and slightly sweetish nose with dark-toned, slightly sauvage aromas of black cherries, some brambly blackberries, light bretty notes of phenolic smoke and leathery funk, a little bit of ripe black raspberry, a hint of earthy Pinosity and a faint touch of Band-Aid. The wine is dry, savory and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of brambly black raspberries, some smoky phenolic tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light funky notes of new leather, a hint of ripe cherry and a touch of savory wood spice. Wonderfully silky yet firm texture with high acidity and still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, ripe and juicy with rather savory flavors of succulent dark fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of smoky phenolic spice, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of gamey meat and a sweet touch of wizened red cherry.
A beautiful, complex and harmonious Pinot Noir that shows a little bit of evolution but also quite a bit of still surprisingly vibrant and youthful fruit along with a subtle yet somewhat noticeable streak of bretty funk that really doesn’t obfuscate any complexity, only adds to it. The wine shows remarkable intensity - more so than any other of the four Arcadian Pinots we had - and impressive sense of structure that doesn’t feel in any way excessive relation to the body or to the fruit. The wine is distinctively Californian in its ripe, even somewhat concentrated fruit, so you couldn’t mistake this wine for a Burgundy, but with its savory and slightly funky overall character, this isn’t your run-of-the-mill Cali Pinot either. Terrific stuff by any standards. Not affordable at 63€, but delivers for the price. Highly recommended. (95 pts.)
Then the blinds:
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2018 Comando G Rozas 1er Cru - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid (23.10.2021)
A mountain Garnacha from multiple old (50-60 yo) biodynamically farmed vineyards planted at the altitude of 900 m above sea level in Valle del Tiétar, Sierra de Gredos. Fermented spontaneously in open-top fermentors, aged for 12 months in old 3000-4000-liter oak casks. 13,5% alcohol. Total production 15238 bottles and 150 magnums. Tasted blind.
Very pale and fully translucent raspberry red color with a slightly brick-orange hue and a colorless rim. Very funky and noticeably bretty yet also quite attractive nose with rather Loire-like aromas of leathery funk, some wild strawberries and crunchy cranberries, light zesty Campari notes, a little bit of perfumed floral character, a hint of sun-baked earth and a touch of Band-Aid. The wine is lithe, light-to-medium-bodied and very funky on the palate with quite rustic flavors of barnyard and bretty leather, wild strawberries, some juicy notes of dark plums, a little bit of stony minerality, light earthy notes, a hint of lifted floral character and a touch of smoky phenolic spice. The moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums lend good firmness and sense of structure to the wine, although the structure is really balanced with the light body. The finish is lively, moderately funky and somewhat grippy with lengthy flavors of bretty leather, some wild strawberries, light floral notes of violets, a little bit of barnyard and a hint of crunchy cranberry.
Based simply on the funky tones and overall lightness of the wine, my initial guess was a mountain Garnacha from Serra dos Gredos, perhaps Comando G. A correct guess with the first try! Overall I was rather surprised how very light and delicate the wine was; I’m not a big fan of Garnacha because of its tendency to produce low-acid, high-alcohol wines, so it is always wonderful when one encounters a wine that is anything but. However, I guessed this was one of the simpler entry-level wines of Comando G, based on its very light body, lithe overall fruit and lack of intensity - which is why I was surprised to learn that this was actually Rozas 1er Cru, a big step above Comando G’s entry-level wines! The wine was definitely good (at least if you can handle a healthy dose of bretty funk), but at the same time rather underwhelming compared to the expectations. Unfortunately this wine didn’t reach the quality, vibrancy and intensity many previously tasted Comando G Garnachas have shown. (88 pts.)
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2016 Albert Boxler Pinot Blanc - France, Alsace (23.10.2021)
Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, aged in old, large oak foudres. 13% alcohol.
Pale straw-yellow color. Ripe, fragrant and surprisingly floral nose with aromas of juicy peach, some Marsanne-like aromas of lavender, honeysuckle and herbal hops, light honeyed tones, a little bit of juicy Golden Delicious apple, a hint of hay and a developed touch of creamy richness. The wine is ripe, slightly viscous and quite full-bodied yet still surprisingly balanced on the palate with vibrant flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple and white peach, some floral notes of lavender, a little bit of hay, light cantaloupe tones, a pilsner-like hint of herbal noble hops and a touch of stony minerality. Considering how ripe, full-bodied and even slightly oily the wine is, it shows surprisingly high acidity, which not only keeps the wine nice and structured, but also lends good sense of freshness to the mouthfeel. The finish is long, balanced and juicy with slightly sweet-toned flavors of peach and cantaloupe, some floral notes of lavender and honeysuckle, a little bit of crunchy golden apple, light stony mineral notes and a hint of exotic spices.
A rather big and concentrated Pinot Blanc that shows surprisingly little Pinot Blanc character. The wine drinks more like an Alsatian Pinot Gris with its slightly viscous, oily mouthfeel and very ripe fruit flavors that lend an illusion of sweetness to the wine, whereas aromatically the wine feels more like a blend of Pinot Gris and Marsanne - especially the herbal noble hop notes and floral nuances of lavender and honeysuckle are qualities I associate immediately with Marsanne (and, to some extent, Roussanne). Had this wine served blind to me, I would’ve guessed white Hermitage or Saint-Joseph right off the bat. However, I poured the wine blind to other people, so they had the honor of doing the guesswork. Two first guesses were Alsatian Pinot Gris and Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige, so I guess the wine shows at least some varietal character and sense of place! Solid value at 18€. (90 pts.)
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2019 Mas del Périé Malbec Amphore - France, Southwest France, Cahors (23.10.2021)
100% Malbec from biodynamically farmed 40-yo vineyards in Cahors. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 30 days in 800-liter amphorae, aged for 9 months in amphorae. Bottled with a minimal dose (10-15 mg/l) of SO2. 12,5% alcohol.
Very dense, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a slightly blueish hue. Somewhat wild and funky yet not excessively natty nose with aromas of ripe blackcurrants and chokeberry juice, some bretty notes of leather and barnyard, a little bit of crunchy crowberry, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, a hint of fresh dark plums and a candied touch of black Bassett’s wine gums. After several hours the smoky and funky nuances have come to the fore, diminishing the fruit and making the wine come across as rather animale with aromas of burnt hair and wet dog. Contrasting the dark, opaque appearance, the wine is surprisingly spry, lively and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and bright, dry flavors of crunchy crowberries and chokeberries, some funky notes of leather, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light gravelly mineral tones, a reductive hint of gunpowder smoke and a touch of tart lingonberry. The wine feels fresh and quite structured, thanks to its high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, crunchy and moderately grippy with bright, savory flavors of crowberries and fresh bilberries, some chokeberry juice, a little bit of floral lift, light bretty notes of leather and farmhouse funk, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of sappy herbal character. After some aeration the aftertaste feels less clean and more funky, but even with a lot of air the wine never turns mousy, fortunately.
A nice, fresh and crunchy Cahors that is very unlike the typical wines of the region. Normally Cahors wines are rather big, quite muscular and and even somewhat chewy in nature, whereas this drank more like a Cru Beaujolais made from Malbec. Making people taste the wine blind and guess what it is turned out to be quite a challenge - the guesses started from Savoie, Austria and northern Italy, then went through basically all the countries in Europe, until one guessed “at least this can’t be Cahors, can it?”. Oh well. All in all, good stuff, but definitely nothing typical for the region. Furthermore, the wine is quite funky with an obvious streak of brett, so I wouldn’t recommend the wine to people who prefer their wines squeaky clean. Seeing how youthful - and at times even slightly candied - the wine is at the moment, I would age it couple of years longer, just to make it lose its most primary tones. Although the wine doesn’t feel like one to be aged extensively, I feel there’s still some potential for future development here. However, at 29,90€ the wine feels a bit pricey for the quality. (89 pts.)
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2019 Domaine Stoeffler Tout Feu Tout Flamme - France, Alsace (23.10.2021)
A Gewurztraminer from lieu-dit Salzhof, Alsace. Macerated with the skins, bottled unfined, unfiltered and without sulfites. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately hazy amber color with a deep, reddish-pink hue. Very fragrant and floral nose with varietally correct aromas of musky flowers, ripe orange, some spicy notes of crushed coriander seeds, light fruity notes of juicy nectarine, a little bit of rose-flavored Turkish delight and a hint of nuttiness. The wine is dry, light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with quite intense flavors of rosewater, stony minerality, some mushy apple tones, a little bit of bretty funk, light cloudberry jam nuances, a hint of Turkish delight and a touch of nuttiness. Overall the wine feels quite structured for a Gewurztraminer with its surprisingly high acidity and a subtle hint of tannic grip. The finish is fresh, juicy and subtly tannic with quite intense flavors of ripe apricots, some bruised apple notes, light bretty notes of leathery funk, a little bit of phenolic bitterness, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of sweet VA that lends a tiny bit of aromatic lift to the more perfumed nuances.
A wonderfully characterful and fragrant orange wine that turned out to be surprisingly clean and wonderfully poised, despite its slightly murky appearance and lack of sulfite additions. I feared the subtly nutty tones would evolve into mousiness once the wine got some air, but the wine didn’t turn mousy even after 24 hours. However, this cleanliness is not the only merit of this natural wine - it is also very balanced, quite delicious and even surprisingly fresh and structured for a Gewurztraminer - a variety that is known to produce some quite substantial and often rather ponderous wines in Alsace. This wine was drinking really well this young, but I can see it also improving for at least a handful of years. Good value for the quality at 15,50€. (93 pts.)
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2020 Alessandro Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (23.10.2021)
100% Nebbiolo from Sinio, right outside of the Barolo region to the east. Cold-soaked with the skins for 30 hours, then fermented and macerated with the skins for 15 days in stainless steel. Aged for a year in old Slavonian oak botti. 13,5% alcohol, 4 g/l residual sugar, 4,8 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent cherry-red color. Fragrant and very varietally correct nose of ripe cherries, some brown spices, a little bit of old leather, light licorice root tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of tar. The wine is medium-bodied on the palate with quite intense, savory flavors of fresh cranberries and sour cherries, some licorice tones, a little bit of old leather, light fragrant notes of dried flowers, a hint of earth and a vague, slightly smoky touch of tar. True to the variety, the wine is quite high in acidity with firm and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, rather tannic and slightly warm with savory flavors of cherries, crunchy cranberries, some licorice root, a little bit of old leather, light meaty notes of umami and a hint of tobacco.
A very nice, clean and balanced Nebbiolo that punches above its weight - this doesn’t feel like a declassified Barolo, but instead a wine that could actually pass off as a Barolo, only if the fruit came from the appellation. When tasting this wine blind, the first sniff took me immediately to Langhe and the first taste confirmed that this must be Nebbiolo. However, based on the somewhat lighter nature of the wine, I guessed lesser Barbaresco, probably from 2016 (as the wine felt quite young, but not too ripe, hence excluding 2015 and 2017 from my guesses). What surprised me the most was how the wine didn’t feel primary at all, even though the wine is only one year old and bottled within the past month or so. Very nice stuff that is drinking remarkably well right now, but will most likely improve for at least a handful of years, if not much more. At just 13,90€ this is an outright steal. (91 pts.)
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