Amarone has never appealed to me. Too ripe, too alcoholic, often over the top. The experts rave about world-class examples…to each their own . A dozen years ago, a Valpolicella awoke my inner Pinotphile, but worthy local offerings were MIA. Where does one look for the cleaner fresher expressions of the blend? Are dried grapes the only path to the peak?
2004 Allegrini La Grola
Some musky elements fade to reveal lightly confected red and dark briar fruit. Nice acidity keeps the ripe fruit refreshing. Modern with integrated oak. There’re subtle medicinal components with mild herbs and a very understated trace of licorice. Rich yet relatively gentle through the midpalate and a light-moderate finish. There’s something engaging about the direction. Pretty easy to like < $25. 13.5% abv with suggestions of warmth but no actual heat.
RT
I’ve often liked Brigaldara’s basic Valpolicella as a pasta wine. Allegrini has been hit or miss – some times a bit clumsy/oaky, sometimes just good and rustic.
If you’re a fan of LDS (and I think you are) or just a fan of pure, unmanipulated wines, you should seek out Monte dall’Oras’ wines. I tasted the currently available wines in March and they are fantastic. The '09 Valpolicella and the '05 Amarone are incredible. I can’t stand the sweet, overly extracted styles, especially amarone. I have to say Alessandra’s amarone may be the best amarone I’ve ever had. I wish she had the ripasso, but it won’t arrive in the US until mid year.
Thanks Gregg, The crowd and warmth were becoming madding during the March LDS/CSW tasting by the time I tried the Monte Dall’Ora wines. I’ll have to revisit the '09 Valpolicella under more suitable conditions.
Lee, thanks for the pointer on Brigaldara.
After reading around, some other names include: Tommaso Bussola, Cà del Pipa, Speri, Tedeschi and Zenato. Seems like they all aspire to make fine Amarone and that anything less is just…something less.
RT