TN: WCC Austrian Riesling

WINE TALK
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WCC AUSTRIAN RIESLING - Jack's Oyster House, Albany, NY (5/28/2026)

My Albany-area group (the Wine Collectors Club) got together to taste Austrian Riesling non-blind at Jack's Oyster House in Albany. Dinner began around 7pm and ended around 9:30pm.

One member of our group, @salilb Salil provided all the wine.

Jack's Oyster House is under new ownership. It opened in 1913 and was a legendary hangout for the political folks since it is just down the street from the capitol. It is an excellent venue for these dinners since we get a private room and Executive Chef Nick Parker did a marvelous job of making wine-friendly, delicious food. Also the Beverage Director Josh Turo is someone we've worked with many times when he was at Yono's.

Photos and more details can be found on my website.

Flight 1: Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund

Amuse Bouche of Foie Mousse, Crostini, Blistered Tomato.
What a yummy mouthful.

  • 2006 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm. From Krems-Stein in the Kremstal DAC and thus not marketed as Smaragd.] Gorgeous floral nose. Rich, complex, super long finish. (95 points)
  • 2016 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm. From Krems-Stein in the Kremstal DAC and thus not marketed as Smaragd.] Muted citrus and flowers in the nose. Thick, rich, young complex. 93-?? (93 points)

Flight 2: Three 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragds

Short Rib with Green Papaya, Citrus, Tamarind, Espelette.
Espelette is a mild chili pepper from the Basque region of France. It wasn't super hot, but hot enough to interfere with the wine, so I just ate the short rib which was delicious.

  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd DĂĽrnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Stunning nose of citrus and flowers. Rich, thick, complex. Should drink well for 10-20 years more. (95 points)
  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Hohereck - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Cheesy citrus nose. Not bad, but something is not right here. Some said it improved with air, but I didn't see that. Judgement reserved.
  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Gorgeous nose of flowers and slate. A stunningly complex wine with a bit of a bite on the finish. My #3 WOTN. (97 points)

Flight 3: Two 2015 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragds

Chicken Française with Artichoke Purée, Spinach, Crab.
This was really delicious. The crab didn't add much but the spinach was tasty. I brought some of the chicken home. My wife tasted it and said it was just like what her Hungarian grandmother made. This is the highest praise from her.

Flight 4: All three 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragds

Veal Milanese with Mustard Greens, Lemon.
This was so good. The veal was tender and flavorful. The crust was fabulous.

  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Rich nose of citrus, slate, and something herbal. Expansive in the mouth with bracing acidity and rich complexity. Could use more time. 96-?? (96 points)
  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Setzberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Another huge, rich, complex nose of minerals and citrus. Super long finish. Wow! My #2 WOTN. 97-?? (97 points)
  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    [Double-decanted around 4pm.] Another rich, complex gorgeous nose. Expansive palate with great balance and intensity. The most stunningly complete wine of the night. My #1 and group #1 WOTN. 98-?? (98 points)

Dessert

Savory Cheese Course of Gruyère, Brioche, Truffle, Marcona Almonds.
Extraordinary texture and flavor. Just an amazing dish. The world's greatest grilled cheese sandwich!

Under Salil tutelage, I have grown to really appreciate these great dry white wines from Austria. I believe several members of our group gained a greater appreciate tonight. Great job by Salil of selecting the wines and organizing the flights.

Posted from CellarTracker.

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Yes, it sounds like he really put on a spread. And Singerriedel is always special stuff. Nice work.

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Nice line-up. Hirtzberger is amazing!

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This was a great dinner. Josh/the kitchen at Jack’s did an excellent job, and it was a lot of fun to put this lineup together. You know that I’ve been a huge fan of these wines for a while, and it was nice to also check into these with a few years of age and see how they’re coming along.

You also know that I’m a massive Alzinger fanboy, but the FX Kellerberg (my #1) and the Singerriedel (my #2, barely behind) were the standouts for me this dinner. I slowed down on buying Kellerberg a while ago given both price increases but also concerns about the wines being a bit big/alcoholic at times - but it was reassuring to see how well the '15 showed here.

There were only a couple of wines I found relatively disappointing. The '16 Steiner Hund showed rather blocky, ripe, and one-dimensional compared to the '06, and I didn’t find it improved much with air. Unusual for me with Nikolaihof, as I always find their wines so elegant and delicate. But I’m hopeful this will come around with time. I was also quite surprised at how ripe/fruit bomby the Hirtzberger Hochrain showed, I’ve often found that more delicate and understated compared to the Singerriedel and Setzberg, but the '15 was a powerhouse that for me didn’t show the finesse or depth that the Setzberg and Singerriedel did.

My full notes:

WCC AUSTRIAN RIESLING DINNER - Jack's Oyster House (5/28/2026)

  • 2006 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    This is outstanding, one of my top wines of the night (#4 for me, just narrowly behind the Alzinger Steinertal). There's a sense of real power and richness here, more than what I typically associate with the Nikolaihof house style - perhaps that's the vintage coming through. But while it's a big wine, the balance is incredible - such freshness to the fruit, floral and lightly herbal accents on the nose, vivid chalky mineral and saline aspects, and a faint oxidative aspect on the finish that adds complexity without ever distracting from the other flavours or making it feel less fresh. (96 pts.)
  • 2016 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Shows a nice core of ripe citrus and stone fruit with a light stony mineral character beneath, but it feels rather heavy and monolithic on the palate compared to the '06 - for me it doesn't show the depth or have the lift and acidity that the '06 had. But my guess is time will get it there. (89 pts.)
  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd DĂĽrnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Great showing. I always seem to underrate Hollerin relative to the other Alzinger vineyards, then get pleasantly surprised whenever I open one. And that's what happened here again - there's a really lovely fragrance here, intensely perfumed and floral, and for me the most compelling aromatics of the three wines in the flight. There's rich fruit beneath on the palate that's still quite youthful and just showing the start of developing savouriness, and impeccable balance. The palate doesn't come through with the same depth and array of flavour that the aromatics suggested, but this is still outstanding. (94 pts.)
  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Hohereck - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    This went in some odd directions - initial impressions were all stony and saline minerality when I tasted this right after opening (before double-decanting), but there was a funky, almost cheesy aspect to the nose that dominated when it was poured that distracted from the other flavours. But with more time that blew off and the other flavours emerged - a core of ripe citrus and stone fruit, higher toned herbal and faintly floral scents, and that saline and stony undercurrent on the palate. Good, though tonight a big step beyond the other two Alzingers. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    My last note on this a couple of years ago said "It's not quite the mineral bomb that other Steinertals are", but it's coming around to that now. Comes across more developed than the other two Alzingers in the flight (all with the same provenance and with equally good corks), there's a smoky, slightly burnished character to the fruit here and beneath it's all stone and salt. Time brings out more aromatic depth as the scents become a little more herbal and high-toned, but the vivid stony mineral expression here is what really makes an impression for me. Great wine and I'm glad to have a few more. (96 pts.)
  • 2015 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    I haven't had this bottling from FX for a while (whereas I regularly buy Alzinger's Steinertal), so the contrast with Alzinger's house style is really striking here. It still has that stony mineral core, but the fruit's so much bolder and riper, veering towards the tropical, but never overripe or over the top. There's a strong smoky and petrol-like characteristic on the nose that's more pronounced here than in the Kellerberg poured alongside, or in any of the Alzingers. This is a big wine but there's still plenty of acidity keeping it in great balance, and it's outstanding - perhaps only suffering from the comparison alongside the Kellerberg. (94 pts.)
  • 2015 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    This is spectacular, and my favorite of the night by a hair. Just a gorgeous fragrance - such aromatic intensity and power, and what an array of flavour. Ripe fruit, flowers, honey, a lightly spicy aspect that has me wondering if there's any botrytis here, and a gentle mineral undercurrent all come together seamlessly, the depth on the palate echoes the aromatics, and there's perfect balance here - richness and power balanced by bright acidity and conveyed with a sense of elegance. Amazing wine and I'm glad I have a few more, though I'll give the next one a few more years. (97 pts.)
  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Big. Really really big; this is an immense wine that's just bursting with rich fruit that ranges from tarter citrus notes to sweeter and more exotic tropical flavours, with floral and faintly herbal accents on the nose. There's still a ton of youthful fruit and fat here, and it comes across heavier and more extracted than any other vintage of this I've tried, and much heavier than the other two Hirtzbergers in the flight. I agree with Keith's earlier note (on CT) that Hochrain's usually a far leaner wine for Hirtzberger and this is quite a change from what I usually expect from Hochrain. This version's certainly tasty, but I'm finding myself wishing for more restraint and for the fruit to be dialed back a bit. Perhaps more time in the cellar might get it there, but I'll keep fingers crossed for my other (last) bottle, as there's a tinge of warmth on the finish as well. (90 pts.)
  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Setzberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Initially found this a little odd when opening, but it came together nicely with air. An array of ripe fruit here like the Hochrain, again ranging from tarter citrus to more tropical flavours, but there's more of a sense of restraint and elegance here than in the Hochrain. Air brings out more herbal and spicy notes and the whole package is very pretty. Drinking nicely right now after some air, but I'll give my other bottle some time in the cellar. (93 pts.)
  • 2015 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    And here's Singerriedel, and here's another fireworks display. I always love this wine and the 2015 is no exception. This is a more exotic, floral version of Singerriedel - it doesn't have the botrytised notes I've found in some vintages, instead there's a strong lavender and jasmine-like scent that frames the rich fruit and mineral depth here. There's such power and intensity to the flavours here, but also a sense of elegance and a delicate touch on the palate that separates it from the other two Hirtzbergers in the flight. An incredible wine, and the group's favorite of the night (my second-favorite, a hair behind the '15 Kellerberg). (97 pts.)
  • 2012 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling 'Schmitt' - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Good stuff - worked nicely as a dessert wine with the savoury cheese course to finish the dinner, similar to my last bottle some months ago but I wasn't paying as much attention here as I was still hooked by the Singerriedel and going back to some of the FX wines.

Posted from CellarTracker

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16 was a difficult year, wines from good producers are of course nicely drinkable, but this 16 is unlikely to ever become anything great imo.

You know that Hirtzberger makes big wines. Couple that with the warmth of 15, and you get… big wines :wink:

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Am I allowed to ask “so where are the oysters?” :grin:

Seriously—tremendous, Salil and Ken, awesome notes to read through and the meal (and praise from Amy is the highest of praise) looks like a superb match.

Both of your notes on the Kellerberg have convinced me to take a look at the alc listing on the 2023 that has magically appeared in one of our stores up here. It is pricey, but I may grab one or two. On that note, I just polished off a bottle of the 23 F.X. Pichler Gelber Muskateller. I don’t usually give Muskateller the time of day, but this was nervy and excellent and, for $70 US or so, I’m running back to the store to secure more of it.

There are as always exceptions to vintage rules, and while this is a gruvee and not a Riesling, I feel compelled to post this TN from a couple of years ago (the wine held the line as my WOTY that year)

2016 Prager Achleiten Gruner Veltliner

Part of a wonderful night last night at Langdon Hall with good friends Jay Shampur, Tran Bronstein and Michael Wright. I feel I need to put this TN out on its own. I brought this one. Pop and pour.

My eyes sort of rolled back into my head on smelling the bouquet. Lime and apple peel weave around mountain grass, fresh light herb notes and a dab of acacia. To taste…well, I confess I have the Jones for Prager, and precision is what I find most attractive about it, but this goes beyond that, adding utter class and a sense of the profound. Palate has replays but adds elderberry and very subtle ginger, along with the dash of white pepper. And on my tongue, the wine just sings. And doesn’t stop. All night. I will give this a 96 and install it as the WOTY so far. It is hard to ask for anything more from a Gruvee for me.

Mahalo nui loa for this vicarious experience.

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You know that Hirtzberger makes big wines. Couple that with the warmth of 15, and you get… big wines :wink:

No disagreement, and I do like the richer Hirtzberger style even in years like '06 and '09. But I was surprised though at how the Hochrain showed relative to the others- I’ve usually found it a leaner/smaller scaled wine than Singerriedel or Setzberg, but it was the bruiser of the trio here, whereas the '15 Singerriedel showed remarkably elegant and delicate despite its frame. (Separately, may be queuing up an '09 Singerriedel as an option this weekend.)

On 16, yup, agree. I largely skipped the vintage, have a few Alzingers, but am far less excited about them than say, my 15s or 10s (or of course my 13s).

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Mike, I did not know FX makes a Muskateller! Been getting more into Austrian Gelber Muskateller lately (if you’re willing to venture a bit further south, Tement is making some great stuff in Styria).

If you’re getting that in Toronto, I may have to beg you to grab an extra bottle and keep it aside for my next visit up :wink:

That Prager Achleiten sounds terrific. A special site and a special wine.

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15s were “warm” from the start, especially Germany. 10s otoh were lean and austere, but I’ve had many that have completely transformed and are brilliant now. Not sure how 16 will evolve, like you I don’t have many.

Good to see you here!

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I do like Tement’s SB. Haven’t had the Muskateller. You bet–will grab an extra for you :slight_smile:

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Love the 06 Honivogl and the 06 Singerriedel does not suck.

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love all of these producers. this thread makes me thirsty!

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