At some point last year an acquaintance of mine told me he had a good bunch of 2016 Vino Nobiles in his cellar - after all, 2016 was a terrific vintage in almost throughout Italy, so it just makes perfect sense to stock up with any and every 2016 Italian reds you might find. Anyways, upon hearing this information it didn’t take me much more than a blink of an eye to ask him when and where we should have a horizontal tasting on these wines - and sure enough, he told me that this would be a great idea, probably some time after the new year.
Well, we managed to arrange the tasting finally in mid-February. And as is typical of our tastings, we didn’t have just the tasting proper, but the attendees brought some extras with them as well. The Vino Nobiles were tasted fully open, while all the other wines were fully blind. I brought that Bricka Douce Noir from my own cellar. Unsurprisingly, it turned out to be quite a difficult wine to guess, but ultimately, with a few helpful hints, one actually managed to get both the grape variety and the region correct! It took quite many guesses, though. 
The opener blind
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2021 Carmelo Peña Santana Ikewen - Spain, Canary Islands, Gran Canaria (18.2.2023)
The first wine from Gran Canaria I've tasted. Mainly Listán Negro and Listán Prieto with a tiny amount of indigenous white varieties, sourced from very old (+80 yo) ungrafted vineyards located at very high altitudes (1300 m above sea level). 60% of the fruit is destemmed, 40% in whole bunches. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for a month. Aged in a single 500-liter demi-muid and stainless steel tanks for 8 months. Lot number L:10.21. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, slightly hazy and quite translucent raspberry-red color. The nose feels red-fruited and slightly wild with aromas of brambly raspberries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of wild strawberry, light lifted notes of medicinal ether and a faint candied hint of cherry jellies. The wine feels playful and somewhat ripe on the palate with a light-to-medium body and vibrant, slightly wild flavors of soft red berries and wild strawberries, some raspberry juice, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light lifted notes of ethery VA, a hint of stony minerality and a ferrous touch of blood. The structure relies mostly on the moderately high acidity, but the somewhat grippy medium tannins bring some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel as well. The finish is quite long, somewhat wild and funky and a bit grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of wild strawberries and ripe raspberries, some ethery VA, a little bit of stony minerality, light saline nuances and a hint of smoky reduction.
A nice, fresh and very drinkable Canary Islands red - something not unlike a missing link between a naturalist Beaujolais and a Vernatsch. Although Gran Canaria's vineyards are supposed to be volcanic, I didn't get much of volcanic character from this wine - and neither did anybody else, because we required a ton of guesses before we finally managed to locate the wine to Canary Islands. And even then, nobody guessed Gran Canaria! Well, I guess that wasn't such a big surprise, since nobody remembers other islands than Tenerife when it comes to Canary Islands wines! Anyhow, this was a fun little wine - maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 28€, but not excessively so.
(89 points)
The normale Vino Nobiles
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2016 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Prugnolo Gentile (85%) with some Canaiolo, Colorino and Mammolo (15%). Fermented spontaneously in oak vats with maceration times continuing for a week after the fermentation has ended. Pressed into old 500-liter Allier oak demi-muids and Slavonian oak botti casks up to 3500 liters in volume. Aged for 18-24 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, youthful and moderately translucent black cherry color. The nose feels youthful and almost primary with aromas of ripe red cherries, some candied fruit jelly tones, a little bit of dusty wood and a hint of tobacco. The wine feels juicy and quite precise on the palate with a moderately full body and clean, dry flavors of licorice and black cherries, some dusty wood, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light sweeter notes of youthful dark forest fruit, a hint of strawberry and a touch of boysenberry marmalade. The overall feel is balanced and quite structured, thanks to the moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is ripe, quite long and dry-ish with firm tannins that slowly pile up on your gums and an aftertaste of juicy dark forest fruits, some dusty cherry tones, a little bit of strawberry, light woody nuances and a hint of savory, slightly earthy spice.
While I enjoyed the style here quite a bit, I curiously found this 2016 iteration a bit less interesting than the 2015 vintage that I tasted 1½ years ago. Although this 2016 was lower in alcohol, I found it surprisingly softer and more straightforward in style compared to the 2015, showing less obvious acidity and tannins and sweeter fruit - which surprised me, since 2015 was a much warmer vintage in Tuscany! While the 2015 vintage was a very positive surprise for the vintage, I found this 2016 version to be a nice but ultimately a bit predictable and anonymous basic-level Vino Nobile. Enjoyable, but nothing special to write home about. I hope it loses those primary tones and develops more depth and tertiary complexity with age. Priced more or less according to its quality at approx. 20€.
(89 points) -
2016 Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Prugnolo Gentile aka. Sangiovese (80%), Canaiolo (10%) and Colorino (10%) sourced from the lower, early-ripening portion of Mulinvecchio cru. Fermented and macerated for two weeks in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 24 months in old 2000-liter oak botti. 14% alcohol. Annual production 30,000 to 40,000 bottles.
Somewhat translucent and moderately evolved, dark brick-red color. The nose feels a bit evolved for a 2016 Vino Nobile with a somewhat funky nose of bretty leather, some earthy tones, a little bit of sour cherry, light phenolic notes of smoke and spices, a hint of stable floor and a touch of sweeter, darker fruit. The wine feels ripe, rich and quite juicy on the palate with a full body with flavors of phenolic spice and farmhouse funk, some sweeter notes of black cherries, a little bit of licorice root, light lambic-like nuances of leather and hay, a hint of tobacco and a sweeter touch of wizened red fruit. The overall feel is quite firm and balanced with the rather high acidity and ripe yet somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, savory and a bit funky with some tannic grip and a long aftertaste of phenolic spice, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of bretty barnyard, light sweeter notes of wizened red fruits, a hint of licorice root and a touch of sweaty leather saddle.
A nice, tasty and enjoyably rustic Vino Nobile with a somewhat noticeable yet not overbearing streak of brett that lends the wine a nice funky touch of leather, spice and animale. I was surprised how evolved the wine seemed compared to the other 2016 Vino Nobiles we tasted - both the appearance and the savory, slightly tertiary qualities suggested that this wine could've been five to ten years older than the other wines, had this been served blind. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the balanced, characterful rusticity and sense of harmony this wine exhibited. I probably wouldn't age it for that long, but this is a lovely effort that drinks really well right now and can be kept for a handful of years more. Good value at 19€.
(91 points) -
2016 Bindella (Tenuta Vallocaia) Vino Nobile di Montepulciano I Quadri - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
100% Sangiovese from Santa Maria cru. Fermented and macerated with the skins for 20-25 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 18-20 months in French oak tonneaux. 14% alcohol. Annual production 15,000 bottles.
Deep, moderately translucent and quite luminous blackish-red color. The nose feels sweet, somewhat oak-driven and a bit polished with aromas of dusty cherry and vanilla, a little bit of cloves and other Christmas spices, light primary nuances of dark fruit jelly candies, sweet hints of boysenberry and plum liqueur and a touch of alcohol. The wine feels chewy and quite ripe yet enjoyable savory on the palate with a full body and quite lush but also rather intense flavors of dusty cherries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light earthy tones, a little bit of sweet spices like cloves and vanilla, a hint of juicy red meat and a touch of toasty oak. The structure seems to rely more on the rather high acidity than on the ripe and mellow tannins at first, but slowly the tannins become more firm and grippy. The finish is dry, moderately grippy and quite long with a somewhat spicy aftertaste of dusty black cherries, some dark plummy tones, a little bit of woody oak spice, light sweeter notes of cloves, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of vanilla.
A firm and balanced but also very accessible Vino Nobile made in a more modern, polished style. The French oak influence is at times quite obvious here, yet fortunately the wine isn't an oak-drenched blockbuster wine but instead a pretty harmonious and enjoyably structured Sangiovese. I'd love the wine to show more depth and character, as the sweetly-spiced oak tones make the wine feel somewhat banal and anonymous in style, but I guess there's enough aging potential in the wine for it to integrate the oaky flavors with the fruit and develop some additional depth and tertiary complexity with age. Good, but nothing particularly memorable. Feels a bit pricey for the quality at approx. 30€.
(88 points)
The Riservas
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2016 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Prugnolo Gentile aka. Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino (5%) from the estate vineyards. The wine is made with Governo Toscano method, ie. a part of Sangiovese is harvested over-ripe and raisined by drying, then added to the already fermented wine to initiate a second fermentation. Aged in botti casks (70%) and French oak tonneaux (30%) for 24 months. 14% alcohol, 2,6 g/l residual sugar, 5,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,55. Total production 18,000 bottles.
Quite deep, moderately opaque and very slightly hazy black cherry color. The nose feels deep, sweetish and quite youthful with dark-toned aromas of cherry marmalade, some plummy notes, a little bit of strawberry, light candied notes of red licorice, a hint of savory spice and a touch of dried red fruits. The wine feels ripe, juicy and youthful on the palate with a moderately full body and succulent flavors of sweet strawberries and cherry marmalade, some plummy tones, a little bit of strawberry, light red licorice tones, a hint of wizened dark berries and a touch of dark-toned oak oak spice. Although the wine seems to be moderately high in acidity with balanced medium tannins, the overall feel is still a bit on the softer side. The finish is ripe and juicy with flavors of sweet black cherries, some red plums, a little bit of red licorice, light strawberry tones, a hint of woody oak spice and a touch of wizened dark berries.
A quite pleasant but also rather easy and very accessible Vino Nobile where the Governo Toscano method seems to come through in those sweet dried-fruit flavors and overall smoothness that is bordering on almost flabby softness - both something I really don't like that much in Sangiovese. Although a pretty enjoyable wine in its own right, the wine didn't really manage to impress me in any way and in a tasting of more than a dozen of 2016 Vino Nobiles, this particular wine seemed a bit blowzy and banal in comparison to the other wines we tasted. Not really worth the 26€.
(87 points) -
2016 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
100% Sangiovese. Aged for 18 months in oak. 14% alcohol.
Deep, dark and luminous cherry-red color that permits some light through. The nose feels dark-toned but also very slightly vegetal with aromas of ripe dark berries, some root vegetable notes of beet root or parsnip perhaps, a little bit of sour cherry, light grassy green nuances, a hint of crunchy crowberry and a touch of wood spice. The wine feels dry, silky in texture yet very firm in mouthfeel with a medium body and crunchy flavors of ripe cranberries, some beet root and celeriac tones, a little bit of medicinal Vermouth herb mix, light meaty notes of umami, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a sweeter touch of wizened dark berries. The wine is quite high in acidity with quite tough and assertive tannins. The finish is dry, somewhat warm and rather grippy with a long aftertaste of tart cranberries and sour cherry bitterness, some vegetal green tones, a little bit of beet root, light meaty notes of umami and a hint of old leather.
A very stern, structured and otherwise promising Vino Nobile - if it weren't for the weird vegetal tones. It's hard to imagine weather would've been the reason for these kind of green, vegetal notes, since 2016 was such a classic, balanced vintage in Tuscany. I wonder if there was just some odd reduction or something else in our bottle? There are not many TNs on this wine in CT - at least now - so it's hard to say whether this was something specific to this bottle or was it something that was supposed to be there, but knowing how a Vino Nobile should taste, I assume that isn't the case. Nevertheless, this was still an impressive and very structure-driven effort all the same - and quite enjoyable even with its atypical vegetal edge. Most likely the wine is even better without them! I can imagine a wine as structured as this will continue to keep and improve for years more. Good stuff and good value at 20€.
(90 points) -
2016 Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vitaroccia Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). Aged in French oak barriques and 500-liter demi-muids for 24 months. 14,5% alcohol.
Deep, rather opaque and quite concentrated blackish-red color with an evolved dried-blood red hue. The nose feels surprisingly aged and tertiary with aromas of raisins and prunes, some dried cherries, a little bit of crunchy lingonberry and other red berries, light woody tones, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of balsamic richness. The wine feels dry, sinewy and moderately aged on the palate with a firm medium body and intense, savory flavors of wizened sour cherries and meaty umami, some gamey tones, a little bit of earth, light woody tones, subtly oxidative hints of soy sauce and hoi sin and a touch of dark pruney fruit. The wine shows impressive sense of structure with its high acidity and quite tough and assertive tannins. The finish is evolved, tightly-knit and rather grippy with rather prominent tannins and a long, layered aftertaste of dried dark fruits, some pruney tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light umami-driven notes of meat stew, a hint of earth and a touch of balsamic VA.
I was surprised how very evolved and tertiary - at times even oxidative - this wine was, considering it was only 6,5 years old on the time of tasting. Despite its aged qualities, the wine showed impressive sense of depth, intensity and structure; I wonder if the wine actually performed even better than if it had been youthful, seeing I'm not a big fan of French oak or blending Cab with Sangiovese. However, this wine was a very lovely and thoroughly enjoyable effort now with good sense of firm structure and savory complexity. If this bottle wasn't prematurely evolved but instead indicative of the style, I wouldn't keep this wine for much longer - but then again, it's entirely possible we just had a bottle that had suffered from sub-optimal aging conditions and/or faulty cork. Priced according to its quality at 34€.
(89 points) -
2016 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Prugnolo Gentile aka. Sangiovese (90%) and Colorino (10%). Fermented spontaneously in oak vats over a period of one week with maceration times continuing for a week after the fermentation has ended. Pressed into old 500-liter Allier oak demi-muids and Slavonian oak botti casks up to 2500 liters in volume. Aged for 28-32 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat translucent and quite youthful ruby red color. The nose feels youthful, clean and fragrant with attractive aromas of red cherries and ripe raspberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of fresh red plum, light licorice root nuances, a sweeter hint of blackberry jelly and a woody touch of savory old oak. The wine feels juicy, rich and youthful on the palate with a full body and clean, subtly sweet-toned flavors of ripe black cherries, some raspberries, a little bit of fresh red plum, light earthy tones, a hint of boysenberry and a touch of red licorice. The overall feel is very firm and muscular, thanks to the high acidity and structured, grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The rich finish feels complex, juicy and quite tannic with a long, youthful aftertaste of strawberries and ripe raspberries, some red plum, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of red licorice and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
The wine is still remarkably youthful and very fruit-forward in nature, but very firm, tannic and structure-driven as well. The overall feel might be a bit on the polished side, but the wine doesn't feel too modern or gloopy in any way - on the contrary, the wine is very true to the region both with its fruit profile and firm, tightly-knit structure. Although the wine is perfectly drinkable already now, I feel the wine is still a mere baby and would benefit greatly from additional aging. Drink now or over the next 15-20 years. A superb purchase at 33€. Highly recommended.
(93 points)
The single vineyard bottlings
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2016 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Costa Grande - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
100% Sangiovese from the Vigna Grande cru, replanted in 2000 with a massal selection of Sangiovese from the Vigna Nocio cru. Fermented spontaneously in oak vats over a period of one week with maceration times extending for another week after the fermentation has ended. Pressed into old 500-liter Allier oak demi-muids, where the wine is aged for a year, then racked into 2500-liter Slavonian oak botti casks, where the wine is aged for another year. After aging for two years in oak, the wine is blended into concrete vats and left to settle for a few months. 14% alcohol.
Youthful, moderately translucent cherry-red color. The nose feels youthful, a bit reticent and maybe slightly reduced with sweet-toned aromas of ripe black cherries, some salty liquorice candies, a little bit of gamey meat, light crunchy notes of red currants, a hint of tobacco, a touch of licorice root and a tiniest whiff of flatulent reduction. The wine feels youthful, sinewy and quite closed on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and dry flavors of tart dark and red berries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of tobacco and a touch of brambly raspberry. The high acidity and ample and quite grippy yet not tough tannins both contribute to the rather tightly-knit structure of the wine. The finish is dry, firm and quite grippy with a long yet somewhat closed aftertaste of raspberries and crunchy redcurrants, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of licorice, light sanguine nuances, a hint of game and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A firm, serious and structure-driven single-vineyard Vino Nobile that feels a bit too young for its own good. This impressively stern and structured wine feels still very youthful, but it also seems to suffer from a little bit of reduction, which makes the wine appear somewhat closed and understated. Tasting this side-by-side with Boscarelli's 2016 Vino Nobile Riserva, they both seem very similar to each other, but the Riserva bottling is just more open and expressive, while this feels somewhat muted in comparison - as did Boscarelli's 2016 Il Nocio as well. Most likely both this wine and Il Nocio will evolve and improve with bottle age, but that is going to take quite a bit of time. It is entirely possible that at some point this wine (and Il Nocio) will be better than the Vino Nobile Riserva, but most likely it is going to take another 15-20 years. Although all the three wines call for additional aging, but I'd say the Riserva bottling is best for earlier consumption while these single-vineyard bottlings are yet to reach their drinking window. Good stuff all the same. Maybe still not worth the 50€, though.
(92 points) -
2016 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano El Grasso - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A single-vineyard Vino Nobile made with organically farmed grapes from the El Grasso cru, planted entirely to Sangiovese in 2004. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 30 days. Aged for 22 months in large Slavonian oak botti. Bottle #1621 of total 3498 bottles. 13,5% alcohol.
Quite translucent, somewhat pale and a relatively evolved brick-red color with an aged, orange rim. The nose feels a bit closed and somewhat wild with aromas of balsamic richness, some ripe black cherries, a little bit of lifted VA, light licorice tones, a hint of brambly black raspberry, a tertiary touch of meat stew and a whiff of ripe, soft strawberry. The wine feels silky, rich and harmonious on the palate with a full body and quite ripe, slightly sweetly-fruited flavors of wizened cherries and soft strawberries, some black raspberry tones, a little bit of red licorice, light evolved notes of meat consommé, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of gravelly minerality. The structure relies more on the moderately high acidity than on the ample yet very ripe and gentle tannins that mainly contribute to the rich texture of the wine, not that much to the firmness of structure. The finish is rich, juicy and somewhat evolved with a long, layered aftertaste of wild strawberries, some red licorice, a little bit of ripe raspberry, light volatile notes of balsamico, a hint of black cherry and an evolved touch of meat stew.
A rich, bold and surprisingly evolved Sangiovese that feels surprisingly ripe, supple and solar for a 2016 Vino Nobile. In our tasting of 2016 Vino Nobiles, this wine seemed noticeably ripe and supple compared to most of the wines we tasted - basically the only wine that seemed as ripe as this was another Avignonesi wine! Furthermore, this wine was also a bit closed and even slightly reductive, which also took a fine toll on its performance. Even if the wine did open up a bit with air, blowing some of its reduction, it still remained a bit reticent all the same. I'd say the wine needs both a little bit of further aging and some aeration once it is opened, but as the wine has already started to show some evolved qualities and it doesn't seem to promise that much on the aging potential with its somewhat soft and supple structure, I'd say this particular wine isn't really built for the long haul. It is enjoyable, but nothing that'd blow your socks off.
(88 points) -
2016 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Antica Chiusina - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A blend of Prugnolo Gentile aka. Sangiovese (95%) and Mammolo (5%). Aged for a minimum of 18 months in French oak barrels. 14% alcohol.
Dense, quite opaque and moderately concentrated blackish-red color that permits very little light through. The nose feels brooding, ripe and dark-toned, with fragrant and somewhat sweetish aromas of juicy black cherries, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of pickle relish-kind of oak character suggesting new oak, light woody notes of savory oak spice, sweeter hints of vanilla and cloves and a touch of blueberry. The overall impression is quite modern and polished, at times bordering on gloopy. The wine feels ripe, muscular and chewy on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of sweet black cherries, some toasty notes of mocha oak, a little bit of strawberry, light oak nuances of vanilla and cloves, a faint hint of pickle relish and a touch of marmaladey sweetness. The medium-plus acidity doesn't lend much to the structure, so the overall structure relies mostly on the very tough, assertive and extracted tannins that bring some very welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is dense, tannic and grippy with a big, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned aftertaste of black cherries, some toasty notes of mocha oak and milk chocolate, a little bit of cloves, light plummy nuances, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of vanilla.
A very big, polished and extracted Vino Nobile bottled in a hulking wanker bottle that befits this kind of humongous wine. I did love the assertive, uncompromising tannic structure here - that kind of stern grip is something I'm often missing in Vino Nobiles - but otherwise this wine wasn't in my wheelhouse, not even close. The overall feel was just way too sweet, modern and overdone for my preference and the wine was badly lacking in acidity - something that in my opinion is a big faux pas in Sangiovese. Although its bold tannic structure might help the wine to survive long enough for the pronounced oak aromatics to get integrated with the lush fruit, I doubt any amount of aging can make this wine come across as particularly elegant or harmonious. While an impressive wine in its own right, this wasn't really my thing. Feels a bit expensive for the quality at 33€.
(87 points) -
2016 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
A single-vineyard Vino Nobile made with organically farmed grapes from the Poggetto di Sopra cru, planted entirely to Sangiovese in 1978. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 30 days. Aged for 24 months in used French oak barriques (75%) and large Slavonian oak botti (25%). 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, translucent and slightly evolved brick-red color with a pale rim. The nose feels sweet and somewhat lifted with attractive aromas of cherries and raspberry jam, some floral nuances, a little bit of strawberry, light rowanberry tones, a hint of sandy soil and a touch of balsamic VA. The wine feels ripe, silky and textural on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of juicy dark berries, some wizened red cherries, a little bit of balsamic lift, light strawberry nuances, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of dried flowers. Although a bit of the soft and mellow side due to its medium acidity, the ample and moderately grippy tannins bring some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is rich, juicy and lengthy with a fine-tuned and somewhat evolved aftertaste of sweet red cherries, some ripe nuances of cranberry, a little bit of dusty old wood, light earthy tones, a hint of balsamic lift and a touch of meaty umami.
An attractive and harmonious Vino Nobile that is on the ripe, open-knit and somewhat softer side, yet showing enough firmness and structure to come across as balanced. I was surprised how relatively aged the wine seemed for its age, which probably translates to relatively modest potential for further aging - however, the wine is drinking wonderfully at the moment. Good stuff, drink or keep for a handful of years more. However, I must admit the wine feels a bit pricey for its quality at 64€.
(91 points) -
2016 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Il Nocio - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
100% Sangiovese from the Vigna del Nocio cru, planted to Sangiovese in 1991. Fermented spontaneously in oak vats over a period of one week with maceration times extending for another week after the fermentation has ended. Pressed into old 500-to-1000-liter Allier and Slavonian oak casks, where the wines are aged for 18 to 24 months. After aging, the final cuvée is made from the best lots and bottled. 14,5% alcohol.
Brooding, dark and only relatively slightly translucent blood-red color. The nose feels savory and somewhat closed with brooding aromas of wild strawberries and pipe tobacco, some old leather tones, a little bit of sun-baked earth and gravel, light sour cherry nuances, a hint of licorice root and a touch of old, dusty cigar box. The wine feels clean, ripe and juicy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite intense flavors of juicy red cherries and fresh dark plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of licorice root and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The overall feel is firm and sinewy but not aggressively tightly-knit with the high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The dry finish feels moderately grippy and somewhat earthy with a long, savory aftertaste of brambly black raspberries, some pouch tobacco, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light sun-baked earth tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of woody oak spice.
A firm, savory and quite impressive single-vineyard Vino Nobile that feels a bit closed and reticent, especially in the nose. There's a lot of stuffing here, but the wine doesn't come across as heavy or overdone, but instead very harmonious and well-proportioned. However, the difference between this wine and Boscarelli's 2016 Vino Nobile Riserva was pretty minimal - apart from the Riserva bottling being a bit more expressive and maybe also slightly more structure-driven as well. Il Nocio might show a bit more nuance and depth, but I'd say the Riserva version is more rewarding at the moment and it might also be a better candidate for prolonged cellaring as well. Even if Il Nocio is a great wine, I'm not sure if its price (70€) makes any sense, since the Riserva version was more or less as good as this wine, but at half the cost...
(93 points) -
2016 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vecchie Viti Del Salco - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (18.2.2023)
100% organically farmed Prugnolo Gentile aka. Sangiovese from the oldest 30-yo vines within the Salco cru. Harvested when the grapes have are at full ripeness or having reached level of overripeness. Aged for 24 months in oak - 50% in 500-liter tonneaux, 50% in botti casks. 14% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar, 5,94 g/l acidity and pH 3,63.
Dark, quite youthful and very deep - almost opaque - blackish-red color. The nose feels dark-toned, rich and somewhat sweet with aromas of dark plums and juicy blackcurrants, some wizened dark berry tones, a little bit of coniferous forest, light porty notes of raisiny dark fruit and prunes, a hint of cherry marmalade and a touch of dusty old wood. The wine is ripe, rich and somewhat evolved on the palate with a full body and somewhat overripe flavors of dried figs and wizened dark berries, some blueberry tones, a little bit of old leather, light black cherry tones, a porty hint of prunes and raisins and a touch of tobacco. The structure relies mostly on the very tough, assertive and grippy tannins and the soft medium acidity doesn't lend much brightness or freshness to the wine. The finish is big, very ripe and noticeably grippy with powerful, sweet-toned flavors of raisins and dried figs, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of pruney fruit, light earthy tones, a hint of earth and a touch of cherry marmalade.
An impressively big, powerful and tannic monster wine that feels just way too overripe and porty for its own good. There is great purity and intensity of fruit here, but I really don't understand why they have to pick the grapes overripe; this feels like a wine made in a very hot vintage like 2003 or 2009, not in 2016 - which is supposed to be one of the greatest Italian vintages in the recent past. I'm sure the structure will hold on just fine for years - maybe decades - but the fruit department doesn't feel like it is built to last. This is an impressive and even sort of enjoyable effort but also a clumsy caricature of a wine, both at the same time. I don't really understand the purpose of the wine and at 57€ it feels way overpriced for its quality.
(87 points)
The after-tasting blinds
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2001 Quinta do Fojo Douro Vinha do Fojo - Portugal, Douro (18.2.2023)
A field blend of Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional and other varieties from the old Vinha do Fojo vineyard located in Cima Corgo subregion of Douro. Aged in French oak barrels (60% new, 40% used) for 12 months. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep and rather opaque dark red color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels evolved and somewhat Bordelais with aromas of dried dark fruits and cigar smoke, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of blueberry, light earthy tones, oxidative hints of soy sauce and beef jerky, a touch of dried figs and a volatile whiff of medicinal ether. The wine feels evolved, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned with a full body and intense flavors of wizened dark fruits and dried figs, some oxidative notes of soy sauce and beef jerky, a little bit of prune juice, light earthy notes, a hint of ripe blackcurrant and a touch of bilberry. Even though the wine feels quite big and ripe, it is also surprisingly airy and harmonious on the palate at the same time. The rather high acidity and quite grippy tannins lend a pretty firm and muscular overall feel to the wine. The finish is evolved, ripe and quite grippy with a moderately tertiary aftertaste of dried figs, some soy sauce tones, a little bit of beef jerky, light earthy tones, a hint of prune juice and an ethery touch of VA.
A ripe, firm and tasty Douro red that seemed remarkably similar to a Bordeaux - my first guess was a left bank Bordeaux, aged 20 to 30 years. Well, the age was correct, but the location was quite far off. Fortunately the firm structure and light blueberry and bilberry overtones helped us in the right direction and it didn't take us that much to arrive at Douro. Terrific stuff with good sense of structure and complexity - especially any new oak tones seemed to have integrated with the fruit almost completely. The structure might keep fine for many more years, but fruit-wise I feel the wine is either getting close to its peak or it is already on its plateau of maturity. Drink or keep a handful of years more. Priced according to its quality at approx. 50€. Recommended.
(93 points) -
2008 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (18.2.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Aged for 18 months in first and second use French oak barriques. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dense, concentrated and fully opaque black cherry color. The nose feels rich, youthful and fruit-forward with a very Bordeaux-like aromas of almost primary blackcurrant-driven dark fruit, some plummy tones, a little bit of minty greenness, light floral nuances of violets, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of wizened figs and a whiff of roasted meat. The wine feels dense, ripe and chewy yet not heavy on the palate with a full body and very focused flavors of juicy plums and ripe blackcurrants, some youthful bilberry tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light evolved nuances of wizened figs, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of game. The overall feel is quite firm, tightly-knit and impressively structured with the high acidity and firm, grippy yet wonderfully fine-grained tannins. The finish is ripe, spicy and quite grippy with a very long and powerful aftertaste of ripe dark fruits, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of woody oak spice, light blackcurrant nuances, hints of bilberries and wizened figs and a touch of meaty umami.
Rich, firm and impressively focused Bordeaux clone from Tuscany. Normally I'm not a big fan of modern Bordeaux nor Super Tuscans, but I found this wine quite impressive: although you could taste the oak influence, it didn't feel overdone at any point; the ripe fruit managed to retain great freshness and sense of structure; and the overall feel was very firm, balanced and also surprisingly youthful for its age. I thought the wine was much younger than it actually was and my initial guess was 2018 Bordeaux. Truth be told, I'd rather drink this than a great majority of what has been made in Bordeaux over the last 10 years or so. As the wine seemed to be so very youthful, I'd say this will continue to improve for years - perhaps even a few decades. Superb stuff, priced according to its quality at approx. 60€.
(94 points) -
2021 Jérémy Bricka Douce Noir Pont de Brion - France, Rhône / Savoie, Isère (18.2.2023)
100% organically farmed Douce Noire (aka. Charbono in California or Bonarda in Argentina) harvested from 3 to 7 yo vineyards on 18th of October, 2021. The fruit is partly destemmed, then fermented spontaneously with partial carbonic maceration over ten days. Aged for ten months in stainless steel tanks (80%) and old, neutral barriques (20%). Bottled with minimal SO2. 10% alcohol.
Deep, dark and almost fully opaque purplish-black color. The nose feels youthful, somewhat wild and moderately reductive with aromas of boysenberries, some aromatic herbal tones, a little bit of gunpowder smoke, light flatulent notes of reduction, hints of damson and black cherry, a primary touch of raspberry jelly or even pear marmalade and a whiff of crushed peppercorns. The wine feels fresh, crunchy and light-bodied on the palate with flavors of bilberries and crowberries, some ripe black raspberry tones, a little bit of sappy red fruit, light herby tones, a reductive hint of gunpowder smoke and a spicy touch of crushed black peppercorns. The structure relies almost entirely on the brisk, high acidity as the light tannins sport only a tiny bit of grip on the gums. The finish is long, dry and acid-driven with a youthful yet crunchy aftertaste of blackcurrants, tart red plums and sappy red fruits, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of mineral water, light reductive smoky nuances, a candied hint of sweet primary fruit and a touch of peppery spice.
A nice, fun and fresh little wine that is all too young for consumption - the wine doesn't really call for additional aging from the structural point of view, but the flavor profile is still quite heavily dominated by the reductive smoky tones and candied primary fruit notes. There seems to be a lovely, very crunchy and acid-driven wine underneath, but it's still quite hard to get a good picture of the wine because its very youthful style. The wine keeps just fine for a day or two, but after two days the wine had developed a tiny bit of mousiness, so I heartily recommend first to age the wine for some years so it loses its primary qualities and some of that reduction, then drink it at one go - this is not a wine you'll want to keep half a bottle for later consumption. Maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 24€, but not excessively so.
(87 points)
Posted from CellarTracker