TN: Two young Volnay Clos des Chênes


I know that this is infanticide. I had decided to open the Guyon, hoping that the 2009 might be showing some generosity. I thought it might be interesting to compare it with the Jadot, to see the differences of house style and the effect of vintage. In the end, I thought it was vintage that was the main factor here …

Two good young wines, drunk over two nights …

  • 2009 Antonin Guyon Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes Domaine du Village - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Colour deep garnet. An expressive, perfumed nose of violets, red currants, raspberries and red cherries, with some spice and warm earth aromas. On palate, opens with some generosity and ripe fruit but clenches down in the mid palate, all phenolic grip. Ripe fine grained tannins, velvety mouthfeel. Flavours in the red fruit spectrum, some earth and savoury flavours, particularly when it opened up a little more on the second evening. Restrained alcohol (13%). Serious fruit weight and structure, good length. Intense, this really needs 10 years in the cellar to integrate and settle down. (92 pts.)

  • 2010 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Deeper red than the Guyon, with purple highlights. A more serious and restrained bouquet with earthy and toasty notes, largely black fruited, dark cherries, blackberries and black raspberries. In the mouth, the Jadot is drinkable, but very tight. Larger scaled and less approachable than the Guyon, if anything it seemed to shut down on the second evening. Although the structure is huge the wine is well balanced and in proportion, with excellent acid balance. The flavours on the mid palate are iron, surrounded by black cherry and other dark fruits and liquorice, with a mineral finish. Quite tannic now, but they are quality tannins. This wine needs 10+ years and will, I think, be very long lived. (93 pts.)

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