For the return of two old friends who had been away for two years, I popped a couple of Volnays. Both were decanted a half an hour or so ahead, and then served over 45 minutes or an hour with the main course of pork medallions with a shitake and bacon “crust.”
1998 d’Angerville Taillepieds
This had a wonderful earthy nose, though still relatively unevolved. In the mouth, this was more approachable and more fruity at first than the M-D. Who says Cotes de Beaunes are light wines? This had a wonderful texture, with lots of depth, some tannins still and a bright acidity. Chewy – a word I wouldn’t often use for Burgundy. The fruits aren’t too distinct, but everything is in sync, though this wine has been slow to evolve. Yummy, classic. And I’ll hold off on my last two bottles. 91+
1999 Monthelie-Duhairet Champans
These wines are deceptive. I remember the 92 Champans. I foolishly drank four bottles out of my half case early on, fearing it would die because it was so acidic and light in color. Then, lo and behold, a decade into its life, it took on flesh and blossomed. I was kicking myself as I drained the last drops from the last bottle, wishing I’d held it longer.
I suspect this is just at that point now. It has a wonderful, vibrant garnet hue. On the nose and in the mouth, it was very austere at first – far less pleasing than the d’Angerville. But with air it converged more and more with the other wine. Other guests seemed to prefer the d’Angerville, but for me it was neck and neck, and I think this might one day prove to be the more interesting wine. No concessions to modernity here, just utterly pure, clean Volnay. 91++