A report from a tasting where we polished a bunch of Super-Tuscans - and a few Felsinas that were actually labeled as Chianti Classico.
While I love Tuscan wine in general, I must admit that I’m not too fond of Super-Tuscans and Brunellos. Too often Brunellos are too heavily oaked, too alcoholic and aged too oxidatively (I think most Brunellos are not built to age the minimum required time in small barriques - things would be different if the producers used large botti casks, like they did in the past). Naturally there are many great, balanced Brunellos out there, but if you don’t know the style, it’s a minefield.
Super-Tuscans, on the other hand, are a completely different kind of a minefield. I do have to admit that there is certain kind of general Tuscan style that is so pervasive that even when tasting a Bordeaux-blend Super-Tuscan that is aged in barriques blind, you can often still identify the wine as Tuscan. Nevertheless, what I love in classic Tuscan wines is the holy combination of high acidity, firm tannic structure and sour cherry bitterness - all wrapped neatly in complete absence of oak. Typically most Super-Tuscans fail in at least one - often in every - of these elements. While the wines might manage to retain some sense of Tuscanyness, they usually lack the things I look for in these wines.
So! Now we had a bunch of blockbuster-ish Tuscan reds with some age. Considering how 2006 was a superb vintage in many parts of Italy, I was a bit surprised how many of these wines felt excessively ripe and clumsy in style. It seems the 2001 and 2004 vintages fared much better here. While I liked Sangiovese-based wines more than the others, there were also a few quite impressive wines made from international varieties. Most likely age here is the key - with some wines you could taste that they might’ve been quite heavily oaky +10 years ago, but most wines had integrated most of their oak flavors quite well with the fruit.
So while this tasting didn’t make me fill my cellar with cases of Super-Tuscans, I must admit that the wines performed much better than I expected. They still aren’t my preferred style of Italian wines, but I enjoyed quite many of them.
- 2022 Besini Kindzmarauli - Georgia, Kakheti, Kindzmarauli (20.2.2024)
100% Saperavi. Fermented and macerated for 7 days in stainless steel tanks. The fermentation is halted before the wine reaches full dryness. 12% alcohol, 25 g/l residual sugar and 5,5 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Youthful, deep and slightly translucent black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned and somewhat sweet with aromas of forest fruits, some cherry marmalade tones, a little bit of blueberry juice and a lactic hint of yogurt. The wine feels youthful, balanced and medium-sweet on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of blueberries, some candied primary fruit notes, a little bit of ripe dark plum, light boysenberry jam tones and a hint of herby spice. Bright, balanced acidity and very gentle tannic grip. The finish juicy, somewhat sweet and gently grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of plummy dark fruit, some blueberry tones, a little bit of boysenberry jam, light notes of cherry marmalade and a hint of spice.
A pleasant and balanced red that is noticeably sweet at first, but carries the sweetness surprisingly well - the wine doesn't come across as a jammy crowdpleaser wine where you just vinify the wine off-dry to mask away any off flavors and make the wine palatable, but instead a wine where the sweetness is in balance with the fruit, the body and the structure. This wine is definitely not my cup of wine and it is hard to come up with a pairing that would suit it, but if one wants a decent red wine with some residual sugar and where the sweetness actually feels balanced with everything else, this is a pretty solid choice. I can imagine the wine would improve with a few years of aging, as the flavor profile is still somewhat dominated by the candied primary fruit flavors. Maybe a bit pricey for the quality at 15,17€, but not excessively so.
(85 points) - 2006 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Aged for 18 months in first and second use French oak barriques. 14,5% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels bold, quite sweet and rather modern with fairly punchy aromas of toasty oak, some wizened figs, a little bit of dried dark fruits, light cassis tones, a hint of raisiny fruit, a woody touch of cedar and a whiff of beef jerky. The wine feels dry, powerful and rather woody on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe figs and blackcurrants, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of raisiny dark fruit, light toasty notes of sweet mocha oak, a hint of crunchy chokeberry and a woody touch of cedar. The structure relies more on the firm and still rather grippy tannins than on the somewhat soft medium acidity. The finish is dry, quite long and moderately grippy with a somewhat evolved aftertaste of dried dark fruits and ripe blackcurrants, some sweet toasty oak notes, a little bit of alcohol warmth, light woody notes of cedar and a hint of wizened figs.
I had quite high expectations of this wine, based on the impressive and still relatively youthful 2008 Giusto di Notri I tasted a year ago. However, this wine not only seemed considerably older, but also much more oak and modern in style. Here the toasty and rather sweet-toned oak aromas and flavors were pretty much to the fore and the fruit department had taken a big step towards a more evolved dried-fruit spectrum. Furthermore, the acidity seemed quite modest - which surprised me, considering how 2006 is thought to an excellent vintage in Tuscany (and other parts of Italy), producing impressive wines with great sense of structure. That didn't seem to be the case here. All in all, this felt like a rather modern and oak-driven Super-Tuscan that has been on its plateau of maturity for some while and is slowly approaching its senescent phase. I wasn't particularly impressed by this vintage.
(86 points) - 2001 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Aged for 18 months in first and second use French oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Rather deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved brownish-maroon hue. The nose feels clean, fragrant and rather dark-toned with aromas of elderberry juice and dark plummy fruit, some fragrant floral tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light bilberry notes, a hint of plum pits and a touch of ripe blackcurrant. The wine feels dry, dense and quite chewy with a moderately full body and intense flavors of wizened blackcurrants and fresh blueberries, some crunchy chokeberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light extracted notes of woody bitterness, a hint of plum pits and a touch of tart red plum. The overall feel is still pretty muscular with the high acidity and still moderately grippy tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and quite tough with a long, somewhat evolved aftertaste of astringent chokeberries and extracted woody bitterness, some tobacco, a little bit of ripe blackcurrant, light toasty oak nuances, a hint of fresh blueberry and an evolved touch of wizened dark fruits.
After the rather ripe, noticeably toasty and somewhat clumsy 2006 vintage, which seemed to be lacking a bit in acidity, this 2001 was a return to form. The wine still feels somewhat clumsy and unbalanced with its somewhat extracted, tough and slightly bitter overall feel, but at least its flavor profile is closer to a classic Bordeaux blend, not an over-oaked new world wine. Although I wasn't completely won over by this vintage, it was still a lot better than the 2006 that we tasted at the same time. I don't really expect the wine lose that extracted, bitter overall feel with age, and as the fruit profile also seems to be getting somewhat tertiary, I'd say the wine is now at its plateau of maturity. Its tannins might continue to resolve with further aging, but otherwise this wine is most likely as good as it gets. Drink now or within the next handful of years.
(89 points) - 2006 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (20.2.2024)
100% Sangiovese selected from the best vineyards. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks. Aged in French barriques and casks for 18 months. 15% alcohol.
Very deep, luminous and slightly translucent dark red color with a subtly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels evolved, ripe and quite powerful with dark-toned aromas of licorice, some asphalt, light spirituous notes of alcohol, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of juicy dark berries and a touch of wizened black fruit. The wine feels ripe and slightly hot on the palate with a full body and bold, slightly sweet-toned flavors of sour cherries, some tart red plums, light raisiny tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, hints of prunes and wizened figs and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel is pretty muscular with the high acidity and rather grippy and assertive tannins. The finish is bold, quite grippy and somewhat hot with a rather long aftertaste of sour cherries, some pruney dark fruit, a little bit of asphalt, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of licorice root and a touch of tobacco.
A rather big, stern and surprisingly ripe vintage of Flaccianello. Maybe the wine is a bit over-the-top with its relatively ripe and somewhat extracted overall style and 15% alcohol, but not too much. Well, the alcohol does stick out a bit, but other than that, the wine's pretty solid. It's not too big nor too ripe and the structure is pretty much in balance with the body and the fruit. I feel the wine is approaching its plateau of maturity, but at least now it doesn't feel the wine is going to fall apart anytime soon, meaning the wine can be drunk now or within the next 10-12 years.
(90 points) - 2001 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (20.2.2024)
100% Sangiovese selected from the best vineyards. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks. Aged in French barriques and casks for 18 months. 14% alcohol.
Moderately translucent and still relatively youthful ruby-red color with a slightly developed brick-red hue. The nose feels savory, somewhat evolved and quite nuances with aromas of red cherries and earthy spices, some tobacco, a little bit of ferrous blood, light sweeter notes of wizened cranberries and dried fruits, hints of dark and juicy berries and a touch of wood. The wine feels somewhat evolved, open-knit and nuanced on the palate with a moderately full body and interweaving flavors of sour cherries and tobacco, some sweet red plums, a little bit of blood, light tart notes of crunchy cranberries, hints of leather and tertiary complexity and a touch of balsamic richness. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance and harmony to the overall feel, but the ample, grippy tannins are what make the wine really feel firm and structured. The finish is dry, crunchy and grippy with a long, complex aftertaste of sour cherries and tart cranberries, some tobacco, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light sweeter notes of ripe red plums and wizened dark fruits, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of savory wood spice.
A firm, structured and harmonious Sangiovese quite close to peak maturity. I feel this wine was more or less as evolved as the 2006 vintage - maybe even a bit younger than it was - but showing more sense of finesse and harmony. Furthermore, the difference of just one percentage point really makes a world of difference on the palate; the 2006 vintage felt quite hot at 15%, whereas the alcohol in this 2001 vintage was barely noticeable! Although the wines were quite similar to each other, I found this 2001 vintage to be slightly better in almost all aspects. It is smack in the middle of its drinking window now, but I can see the wine keeping just fine for another decade or two. Recommended.
(92 points) - 2004 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore (20.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3), rounded out by Merlot and Sangiovese. Fermented and macerated in tronconical oak vats and aged for 18 months in French oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Very deep dark and only slightly translucent blackish-red color. The nose feels ripe, juicy and quite dark-toned with aromas of sweet black cherries, some blackcurrant tones, a little bit of ripe red plum, light evolved notes of dried fruits, a toasty hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of earth. The wine feels ripe, firm and somewhat evolved on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of dark fruits, some evolved raisiny tones and dried black cherries, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of wizened blackcurrants, a toasty hint of sweet mocha oak and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is pretty stern with its rather high acidity and ample, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is long, juicy and grippy with an intense, somewhat evolved aftertaste of wizened black cherries, some ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light toasty notes of sweet oak spice, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of savory wood.
A firm, impressively structured and quite nicely evolved Super-Tuscan that has more or less arrived at its plateau of maturity now, at the age of 20 years. As the wine still retains some toasty oak tones, I can imagine this might've been pretty heavily oaked stuff in its youth. However, as most of that toasty character has integrated with the evolved fruit flavors, this is starting to show quite nicely. I'm not sure if the wine will hold that much longer, based in its rather ripe and moderately evolved dried-fruit flavors, but at least now the wine doesn't seem to show any signs of decline. Although this is stylistically not my kind of wine, it's still pretty enjoyable for what it is - a rather modern yet enjoyably developed and pleasantly structure-driven Super-Tuscan.
(91 points) - 2004 Brancaia Il Blu Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Sangiovese (50%), Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) from Castellina and Radda, harvested between 20th of September and 10th of October. Macerated for 20 days. Aged for 18 months in barriques (2/3 new, 1/3 old). 14% alcohol and 5,8 g/l acidity.
Very deep, almost completely black and rather opaque dark red color. The nose feels brooding and quite dark-toned with aromas of ripe black cherries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of blackcurrant, light licorice root tones, a hint of prunes and a touch of asphalt. The wine feels ripe and somewhat dried-up on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of tobacco and gravelly minerality, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of juicy blackcurrant, light woody notes of savory oak spice and a hint of old, dry leather. The fruit department feels like it has thinned out, leaving just savory non-fruit notes behind. The overall feel is balanced but a bit supple with the medium-plus acidity, making the structure rely on the moderately grippy tannins for the most part. The finish is dry, quite grippy and moderately long with a savory aftertaste of sour cherries, some wizened dark fruits, a little bit of earthy spice, light leathery tones, a hint of tobacco and a woody touch of cedar.
A balanced and quite sophisticated Super-Tuscan that feels like it hasn't benefited from extended aging - although the wine still retains great flavor intensity and a firm tannic frame, the fruit department has started to thin out, making the wine come across as just somewhat savory and lacking in vibrancy. That's not bad per se, as this is a nice, evolved red in its own right - you just notice that the wine comes across as somewhat quiet and underwhelming when tasting it next to a bunch of other similarly aged Tuscan reds.
(89 points) - 2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
100% Sangiovese from vineyards in Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi. All the fruit is destemmed then fermented and macerated for 2-3 weeks in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 18-22 months in new and 2nd use French oak barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Slightly translucent and moderately deep cherry-red color with a somewhat evolved brick-red hue. The nose feels fragrant and quite attractive with classic Tuscan aromas of ripe black cherries, some leathery tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light juicy notes of sweet raspberries, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of fresh sour cherry. The wine feels ripe, firm and sinewy on the palate with a rather full body and somewhat concentrated flavors of crunchy cranberries and fresh sour cherries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light sweeter nuances of juicy dark fruits, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of savory wood spice. The wine feels structured and quite tightly-knit with its high acidity and ample, quite unresolved and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and grippy with an intense aftertaste of sour cherries and tart cranberries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of lingonberry compote, light sanguine notes of iron, a sweeter hint of black cherry and a woody touch of savory oak spice.
A fine, sophisticated and impressively structure-driven effort for a Super-Tuscan - but as the wine is 100% Sangiovese from the Chianti heartland, I guess that's not a surprise. Even if the wine sees some new French oak, the wine doesn't feel particularly modern or polished - anymore, at least - and what detectable oak influence remains here has turned into rather understated nuances of savory oak spice, which compliment the rather ripe yet still pretty dry and crunchy fruit profile quite tactfully. The wine doesn't feel young anymore, but it doesn't really show any evolved signs, either. Most likely this wine will continue to age and evolve gracefully for many, many more years. Great stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (20.2.2024)
100% Sangiovese, hand-harvested from the high-altitude Rancia vineyard. Fermented and macerated for 18-20 days in stainless steel, aged for 18-20 months in new French oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol.
Very deep, only slightly translucent and surprisingly youthful black cherry color. The brooding nose feels quite dark-toned for a Sangiovese with aromas of fresh dark plums, some wizened black cherries, light sour cherry tones, a little bit of blood, a sweeter hint of dried dark berries and a faint touch of toasty mocha oak. The wine feels ripe, open-knit and rather extracted on the palate with bold flavors of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some leather and dry tobacco notes, a little bit of sweet toasty oak spice, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of ripe redcurrant and a woody touch of savory oak. The structure relies more on the ample, quite unresolved and moderately grippy tannins than on the medium-to-moderately high acidity. The finish is dry and quite tannic with a long aftertaste of sour cherries and tart cranberries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of ripe redcurrant, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of earth and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A very stern, serious and relatively ripe vintage of Rancia. Normally I've thought Rancia carries its oak élevage remarkably well, rarely showing any noticeable toasty oak qualities; however, this vintage - for some reason - seemed to show more toasty character than I expected. Even more so, considering how the wine is nigh on twenty years old. Nevertheless, the wine is surprisingly serious and quite Tuscan in character. Perhaps a bit darker-toned and slightly lower in acidity than I'd expect from a Sangiovese from Chianti, but not alarmingly so. Seeing how the wine is still surprisingly youthful for its age, I can see the wine evolving and improving effortlessly for a couple of decades more. This is stuff that's built to age.
(92 points) - 2001 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (20.2.2024)
100% Sangiovese, hand-harvested from the high-altitude Rancia vineyard. Fermented and macerated for 18-20 days in stainless steel, aged for 18-20 months in new French oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately evolved and somewhat translucent brick-red color. The nose feels clean, a bit restrained but also wonderfully nuanced with aromas of dark forest fruits, some ripe red cherries, a little bit of ferrous blood, light leathery tones, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of earth. The wine feels firm, sinewy and somewhat lean on the palate with a medium body and dry, nuanced flavors of sour cherries and old leather, some crunchy redcurrant tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of tart lingonberry and a ferrous touch of blood. The overall feel isn't big or ripe, but enjoyably austere - the way only a great Chianti Classico can be. The acidity feels high and the tannins are still very much unresolved, angular and grippy. The finish is long, dry and grippy with an intense aftertaste of sour cherries and old leather, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of ripe red plum and a touch of earth.
Normally I've found Rancia an impressive but nonetheless somewhat modern Chianti Classico Riserva, where the toasty French oak tones show a bit, making the wine feel a bit more international than traditional. However, this 2001 is now in such a spot that the wine doesn't feel particularly evolved - if you look at the unresolved tannins, the wine seems like it hasn't aged one bit! - but any oaky notes the wine might've shown in its youth have integrated wonderfully with the fruit. The overall flavor profile is somewhat darker-toned than one might expect from a CCR, but otherwise this is pretty darn serious stuff. Sinewy, structure-driven and even somewhat austere, yes, but also wonderfully tasty. Seeing how the wine is still surprisingly youthful for its age, I can see this wine aging and improving for many, many more years - there's still a lot of unrealized potential here. Expect my score to go up as the wine ages. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2006 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). Fermented and macerated with the skins for 15 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged mostly in French oak barriques (normally 1/3 new, 2/3 used) for 20 to 25 months; a tiny portion is aged in American oak casks. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, dark and almost fully opaque black cherry color with a slightly evolved plummy hue. The nose feels open, dark-toned and somewhat sweetly-fruited with aromas of juicy black cherries, some cassis, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light brambly notes of dark forest fruits, a hint of strawberry and a woody touch of cedar. The wine feels dense, somewhat extracted and quite chewy on the palate with a rather full body and surprisingly youthful flavors of vibrant dark fruits and ripe cherries, some woody notes of cedar and savory oak spice, light strawberry tones, a little bit of fresh blackcurrant, a hint of sweet smoky character and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. Despite its ripeness and somewhat substantial overall feel, the wine is also quite structured and muscular with its high acidity and ample, grippy tannins. The finish is long, grippy and concentrated with a ripe yet dry aftertaste of juicy dark plums and fresh blackcurrants, some strawberry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light smoky and sweetly-spiced toasty oak nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a woody touch of cedar.
After a handful of more "Tuscan", Sangiovese-driven Super-Tuscans (and a few Chianti Classico Riservas), this wine was an abrupt jump back to the more "international" Super-Tuscan style with more emphasis on toasty oak tones and a flavor profile that feels more French than Italian. However, the wine is surprisingly stern, nuanced and impressive an effort for such a wine! Although the wine is (to my understanding) completely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it still retains a somewhat Tuscan overall feel; the tightly-knit structure feels very Italian to me, and there is even some of that sour cherry bitterness I normally associate with Italian varieties. Furthermore, the wine seems to be aging at a remarkably slow rate - even at almost 18 years of age, the wine still feels youthful, showing very little evolution, resolution or tertiary development. This is a fine wine now, but despite its age, it feels like the wine is more about aging potential than immediate enjoyment. I'd wait for at least another 7-12 years - just to let the wine to integrate those toasty oak tones a bit further and letting the tannins resolve some more. All in all, a very impressive effort; even if I'm not a Super-Tuscan guy, this was one of my favorites of the evening. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2004 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) and Sangiovese (25%). 14% alcohol.
Deep, dense and fully opaque inky black cherry with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels brooding, dark-toned and slightly sweetish with somewhat evolved aromas of ripe plummy fruit, some dried black cherries, light toasty oak tones, a little bit of chocolatey mocha character, a hint of asphalt, a touch of bretty funk and a whiff of raisiny character. The wine feels ripe, big and extracted on the palate with a full body and punchy, somewhat toasty flavors of sweet dried fruits and wizened figs, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of dried black cherry, light chocolatey tones, a hint of prunes and a touch of asphalt. The combination of moderately high acidity and still quite assertive and grippy tannins make the overall feel pretty tough and muscular. The finish is long, robust and grippy with a somewhat evolved aftertaste of sweet dried fruits and some asphalt, a little bit of bittersweet dark chocolate, light plummy tones, a hint of juicy black cherry and a touch of leather.
I tasted this wine six years ago and back then I thought the wine had reached its apogee, but it would stay just fine, based on its still quite tightly-knit structure. Well, it seems that I was correct about the wine reaching its peak back then, because it was really lovely at that point. However, I feel that further aging hasn't really benefited the wine: to me, this bottle felt somewhat less coherent and more clumsy in style, showing some sweet dried-fruit flavor and - for some reason - exhibiting more of those toasty oak notes than before. Perhaps the fruit department has lost some of its intensity over the years, so now the oaky qualities get comparatively a bit more emphasis? Anyways, this was a still an impressive, structure-driven wine - but not nearly as terrific as it was back in 2018. I felt this was a bit too robust, somewhat clumsy and slightly blockbuster-ish wine now. Not bad, but maybe a bit disappointing, knowing how this has been better a little while back.
(88 points) - 2004 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Saffredi Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (20.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%) and Petit Verdot (10%). Aged in French oak barriques (50% new) for 12-15 months. 14% alcohol.
Dense, rather opaque blackish-red color with a luminous, deep cherry-red rim. The nose feels dull, dusty and understated with light mildew aromas. The wine feels dull, somewhat musty and quite understated on the palate with a full body and ample, grippy tannins and light, one-dimensional flavors of mildewy TCA.
Corked.
(NR/flawed) - NV Serge Mathieu Champagne Cuvée Prestige Brut R Roschier - France, Champagne (20.2.2024)
To my understanding, this is just Mathieu's regular Cuvée Prestige Brut that is bottled with a special "R" label for the law firm Roschier. A blend of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%). Aged for 4 years sur lattes. 12% alcohol. According to the back label, this is "5th edition, 2023".
Medium-deep straw-yellow color. The nose feels surprisingly yeasty with somewhat evolved aromas of caramel, some freshly baked oat biscuits, light leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of bruised apple, a hint of fresh cloudberries, a touch of custard pastry and a nutty whiff of chopped almonds. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a moderately full body and nuanced, characterful flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple and ripe citrus fruits, some yeasty notes of autolysis, a little bit of creamy custard pastry, light apricot tones, an evolved hint of bruised apple and a touch of saline minerality. The dosage shows a little bit, not only as a sense of richness and fruit, but also as a sweet hint of sucrosity. However, the combination of the crisp, voluminous and persistent mousse and quite high acidity add a nice counterpoint to the richness and sweetness. The finish is long, refreshing and quite acid-driven with a nuanced aftertaste of fresh yellow apple, some sweet notes of ripe oranges and other citrus fruits, a little bit of leesy yeast, light stony mineral notes, a nutty hint of chopped almonds and a touch of salinity.
A tasty, nuanced and balanced Champagne with a slightly sweet edge. Although I'd like the wine to show a tiny bit less sweetness, the dosage doesn't feel overdone and with this sense of nuance and complexity, this is a very solid choice that will suit many palates from a discriminating professional palate to people who are not that much into sparkling wines. A well-made and enjoyable Champagne made in a "one size that fits most" style. Nice.
(90 points) - 2018 Amaury Beaufort Champagne Brut Nature Le Jardinot - France, Champagne (20.2.2024)
A blend of mainly Pinot Noir and a little bit of Chardonnay from Le Jardinot, a 50 years old, 1-hectare vineyard in Polisy, Aube (immediately to the north from Les Riceys). Fermented spontaneously in oval casks, aged in demi-muids. I've understood the wine is a single-vintage wine even if it doesn't say so on the label. Lot No. 18, ie based on the 2018 vintage. Disgorged on 14th of October, 2021. 12% alcohol.
Medium-deep lemon-yellow color. The nose feels crisp and slightly greenish with aromas of fresh green apple, some unripe pineapple tones, a little bit of chopped aromatic herbs, light sweeter nuances of honeyed richness, a hint of ripe citrus fruits, a touch of leesy yeast and a fragrant whiff of floral primary character. The wine feels crisp, clean and quite palate-cleansing on the palate with a light-to-medium body and bone-dry flavors of golden currants and Granny Smith apple, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of pomelo, light leesy notes of autolysis, a hint of crunchy white fruit and a touch of chalk dust. Although the taste is not insipid, the overall fruit profile is rather linear and a bit understated. Bright high acidity and a crisp, fine and persistent mousse. The finish is crisp, linear and steely with a somewhat neutral aftertaste of lemony citrus fruit, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of Granny Smith apple, light crunchy notes of golden currants and a leesy hint of yeasty autolysis.
An enjoyably refreshing, crisp and mineral but also quite neutral and understated Champagne with relatively little body and rather light overall taste. I guess the wine is a bit closed now and will open up with some age, but I doubt this is going to change much from here - the style is decidedly un-flashy and the emphasis is obviously on the refreshing, palate-cleansing qualities and not on depth of flavor or complexity. While a pleasant and refreshing little drop, I prefer my Champagnes with a little bit of substance and gravitas.
(89 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
