This was just a very random semi-tasting, in which we ordered some nice fare from a restaurant in Helsinki and opened any bottles I managed to dig up from my cellar. As I was the only wine-oriented person present, I tried to tip-toe the fine line between not opening too geeky or so exceptional wines that the other people wouldn’t understand or appreciate, but still opening wines interesting enough so that they could appreciate the quality higher than with the bottles they’d normally drink.
Except for the KWV bottle. That was when people asked for a wine that they could just drink with the food without thinking much about it. ![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
I also opted to go with a beer for the introductory bubbles. After all, most, if not all, were more interested in beer than in wine. I thought it was interesting to show that a fine brew is definitely not out of place even in wine tastings.
But yeah, there was no red thread running through this tasting, as people were just sitting there, tasting whatever bottles I managed to dig up from my cellar cabinet. Even if my friends were not winos by any means, they seemed to enjoy most wines quite much - except for the Jimenez-Landi bottle, which was just too bretty for most. Not for me, mind you! ![[wink.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/04707e6a7bbb03e0153e349d8a9270d30e1e9525.gif "wink"){kind=small}
The always-as-exceptional Caldo Infernale 2010 managed to blow some socks off, as virtually everybody exclaimed they had never tasted anything like it, and when I told the producer still had some bottles available, one person immediately ordered a mixed case from the producer, including one bottle of 2010 Caldo for everybody in attendance!
-
NV Brasserie Dupont Saison Dupont 6.5% - Belgium, Wallonie, Tourpes (11.9.2021)
6,5% alcohol. Brewed in 2016, best before 06/2019.
Slightly hazy straw-yellow color with a large and quite persistent white head. Pleasantly funky, slightly rustic and very attractive nose with complex aromas of leathery brett, some grainy malt, light sweeter notes of yellow stone fruits, a little bit of ripe orange, a hint of lemony marmalade and a touch of barnyard. The beer feels dry, quite full-bodied and somewhat funky on the palate with flavors of bretty leather, some grainy malt, a little bit of phenolic spice, light juicy notes of ripe orange and lemon and a hint of herbal hops. Although there’s a hint of sweetness to the flavors, the taste retains a nice touch of tart tang. The hop bitterness grows slowly towards the aftertaste without ever taking the lead. The overall feel is enjoyably evolved without coming across old at all. The finish is long, complex and slightly funky with flavors of leather, some herbal bitterness, light grainy malt tones, a little bit of ripe orange, a hint of earth and a touch of phenolic spice.
Consistently a beautiful saison, hands down one of the best I know, if not the best. Although the beer feels somewhat evolved compared to my previous bottle (drunk more than 4 years ago), I’m not sure if this that much better - just different. However, the beer hasn’t diminished in quality in any way, either. An excellent beer that never seems to disappoint. To me, this is a beer that’s impossible not to love. Such a bargain at 5,40€ for a 0,75-liter bottle. (95 pts.)
-
2017 Edi Kante Vitovska - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT (11.9.2021)
100% Vitovska, a variety believed to be a cross of Prosecco Tondo and Malvasia Bianca Lunga. The fruit is sourced from a 20-yo Vitovska vineyard located in Carso Triestino. Aged for 12 months in old, neutral oak barriques, followed by another 6 months in the lees in stainless steel tanks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale whitish-green color. Somewhat restrained yet still attractive nose of hay, some ripe citrus fruit notes, light cantaloupe nuances and a hint of waxy character. The wine feels gentle, balanced and pleasantly nuanced on the palate with a medium body and poised flavors of hay, ripe white fruits, some sweet notes of cantaloupe, a little bit of stony minerality, light nuances of waxy funk, a hint of fresh red apple and a herbal touch of sage. Medium-to-moderately high in acidity. The finish is juicy, mellow and quite long with gentle flavors of waxy richness, some white fruit notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light notes of hay and a hint of Golden Delicious apple.
A nice, pleasant and balanced Friulian white, perhaps a bit too much from the restrained side. The overall feel is very nuanced and approachable, but I feel the wine is slightly lacking in intensity, freshness and structure. Fine stuff, but doesn’t reach the heights of the best vintages of Kante Vitovska. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 24€. (89 pts.)
-
2017 KWV 57 on Main - South Africa, Western Cape (11.9.2021)
A blend of Petit Verdot, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. 14% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar, 5,8 g/l acidity.
Almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a youthful, slightly purple hue. Youthful, still surprisingly primary and quite sweetish nose with aromas of boysenberry jam, some cherry tones, light blackcurrant juice notes, a little bit of vanilla oak, sweet hints of very ripe plums and a touch of blueberry juice. The wine is juicy and sweet-toned on the palate with vibrant flavors of boysenberries, some cherries, a little bit of vanilla oak, light licorice notes, a hint of candied primary fruit and a touch of brambly blackberry. The wine is quite high in acidity, which lends it good sense of structure, while the gently grippy medium tannins bring some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is dry, juicy and quite long with some tannic grip and fruit-forward flavors of blackcurrant marmalade, some vanilla oak, light boysenberry tones, a candied hint of dark-toned primary fruit and a touch of dark plums.
Well, at least the wine has lost its yogurt-like lactic notes of MLF in these past 3½ years. Besides that, the wine has evolved surprisingly little and comes across as very youthful - at times even quite primary - for its age and is all about sweet-toned, almost candied dark fruit. By getting rid of the lactic MLF notes, the wine has gained a bit of balance, but otherwise the wine has changed very little from my previous taste and admittedly still isn’t really my cup of tea. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 14,29€. (82 pts.)
-
1995 Domaine Doudet Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (11.9.2021)
13% alcohol.
Evolved, fully translucent brick-red color with brilliant cherry-red highlights. Evolved and quite perfumed nose with nuanced, sweet-toned aromas of wizened cherries and raspberries, some wild strawberry tones, light meaty notes, a little bit of dried figs and a perfumed touch of wilted violets. The wine is dry, silky-smooth and medium-bodied on the palate with quite complex flavors of ripe cranberries, some wizened red fruits, light plummy tones and a metallic hint of rusted iron. The overall feel is quite structured, thanks to the high acidity and quite sparse yet moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is lively, fresh and acid-driven with moderate tannic grip and evolved flavors of sweet, wizened cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light meaty notes of umami, a little bit of ferrous blood, a hint of something metallic and a touch of earth.
An nicely evolved, nuanced and still quite tightly-knit red Beaune 1er Cru. Shows a good deal of evolution without coming across as noticeably tired or too tertiary - there’s still a good deal of vibrant fruit left to keep the wine running for a long time. I doubt there’s going to be much evolution anymore, but the wine will stay at this level for many more years. Drink or keep. Good value at 30€. (91 pts.)
-
1996 Château Tour Haut-Caussan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc (11.9.2021)
Cru Bourgeois. Typically a 50:50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aged in oak barriques (approx. 25% new). 13% alcohol.
Evolved yet still surprisingly opaque blackish-red color with a somewhat mature plummy hue. The nose is funky, somewhat evolved and slightly weird for a Médoc with aromas of evolved, slightly wizened blackcurrant tones and woody pencil shavings along with some nuanced of Brie rind, a little bit of oxidative Marsala character, light leather notes, a hint of dried figs and a touch of dusty earth. The wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with somewhat funky flavors of dried blackcurrants, some funky notes of Brie rind, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of leathery funk, a hint of wizened dark forest fruits and a touch of sous bois. The overall feel is still quite structured, thanks not only to the high acidity, but also to the silky yet ample and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite tannic with somewhat tertiary flavors of sweet, wizened blackcurrants, some old leather, light funky oxidative notes of Marsala, a little bit of earthy undergrowth, a hint of dried dates and a ferrous touch of blood.
A rather nice, moderately evolved and slightly funky or even a bit off '96 Médoc with classic claret flavors intermingling with some slightly weird tertiary notes. The Marsala notes feel a bit odd, as normally the Bordeaux trajectory is a bit different when the wines start to get tertiary, but the funky, cheesy notes are getting already slightly distracting. The wine is still fully alive and thoroughly enjoyable, but I’m sure I would’ve enjoyed it more without any cheesy nuances. However, I must say that the wine did deliver for its price (15,51€). (89 pts.)
-
2014 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (11.9.2021)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut, one third of each. The vintage 2014 in Beqaa was exceptionally dry, continuing from dry end of 2013, showing no rain, snow or cold weather. These dry weathers continued into the summer, and by August the vines were already suffering from lack of water. Cabernet suffered the most from the lack of water and Carignan was somewhat affected, too. Cinsaut, as usual, didn’t have any problems and matured as usual. The wine was fermented spontaneously, all varieties separately in concrete tanks. Due to the atypically high sugar content, the start of the fermentation of Cabernet and Carignan was sluggish and took a long time, whereas Cinsaut fermented pretty normally. The fermented varietal wines were aged in oak barrels for a year, blended in January 2017, then left to marry for a few months and bottled unfined and unfiltered in summer 2017. 14% alcohol, 4 g/l residual sugar, 6,7 g/l acidity. Aerated in a decanter for approx. 45 minutes.
Deep, almost fully opaque black cherry red with a slightly evolved figgy hue. Sunny, fragrant and moderately wild nose with a classic, lifted Musar streak of sweet ethyl acetate (VA, somewhere between fruit candies and nail polish), followed by rich aromas of figs, some juicy black cherries, light pruney tones suggesting a hot vintage, a little bit of savory meaty character, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of balsamic richness. As is typical of Musar, no obvious oak notes whatsoever, even if the wine is freshly released. The wine feels ripe, juicy and full-bodied on the palate with quite solar flavors of sweet, dark plums and wizened figs, some juicy blackcurrant tones, a little bit of fresh black raspberry, light floral notes of elderflower, a lifted hint of sweet CO2 and a touch of balsamic richness. Upon opening there was a subtle hint of CO2 prickle, but that disappeared during the aeration. The overall feel is impressively structured - perhaps even more so than normal - with high acidity and moderately assertive, quite grippy tannins. The alcohol shows a little bit, especially towards the aftertaste. The finish is juicy, quite tannic and slightly sweet-toned with powerful flavors of ripe dark plums and slightly wizened figs, some cherry tones, a little bit of chokeberry and sour cherry bitterness, light raisiny notes, a slightly acetic hint of balsamic VA and a touch of blackberry marmalade.
A very powerful, structured and slightly sweet-toned vintage of Musar that bears some characteristics typical of a warm, dry vintage. The overall feel is similarly solar and sweetish as the hot 2012 vintage, but this wine feels perhaps slightly less pruney and more structured in style, showing impressively tightly-knit overall feel and less jammy fruit. What bothered me a little bit here was the slight CO2 prickle, but fortunately even that disappeared quite quickly with a decant. I can also imagine that characteristic will disappear from the wine as it ages in a cellar. Overall the wine shows great potential for future development - I just hope the wine doesn’t continue to become more pruney and porty as it ages, but instead starts to emphasize more of its earthier, savory nuances. It’s still quite hard to assess this vintage fully as the wine is still so “young”, but it feels like just in 2013, this is a great vintage in the making. However, only with some more age it will become clear whether this is going to be a truly great vintage or “just” a very good one. At least the promise is there. As always, this is solid value at 40,98€.
And as an aside, this was my Musar TN #100. Whoo! (92 pts.)
-
2007 Jiménez Landi Méntrida Sotorrondero - Spain, Castilla-La Mancha, Méntrida (11.9.2021)
A blend of Grenache (70%) and Syrah (30%). 14,5% alcohol.
Dense, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved brick-red-to-maroon hue. Very robust, funky and unapologetically rustic nose with brett-driven aromas of leather, game and stable floor, slightly pruney fruit, some smoky phenolic spice, light sulfurous notes of gunpowder smoke, a little bit of ripe dark forest fruits, spicy hints of paprika powder and pink peppercorns and a touch of inky character. The wine is ripe, chewy and full-bodied on the palate with savory flavors of ripe blackberries and dark plums, some spicy notes of peppery spice, light bretty notes of leather, stable floor and smoky phenolic spice, a little bit of evolved raisiny fruit and a sweet, liqueur-ish hint of Chambord. The taste starts off dry and savory, yet finishes quite rich and slightly sweet. Moderately high in acidity with ripe, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, moderately grippy and quite savory with a tasty aftertaste of meaty umami, peppery spice, some bretty notes of leather and barnyard, a little bit of phenolic bitterness, light smoky tones, ripe hints of blackcurrant and dark forest fruits and an evolved touch of dried dark fruits.
Another lovely bottle of this rustic Sierra de Gredos red. It’s unabashedly rustic with noticeably bretty notes of barnyard funk that might be quite too much for some - as I noticed in the event where we tasted these wines - but I love the gritty, unpolished nature these wines show. There’s some obvious ripeness and the wine is moderately high in alcohol, but neither of these qualities really show and the wine just exhibits wonderful complexity, sense of balance and great structure. A classic, old-school farmhouse wine with tons of fruit and funk, but not too much of either. I have no idea whether the wine will continue to improve from here, but I don’t expect it to decline anytime soon - drink or keep. Excellent value at 17€. (92 pts.)
-
2001 Château Broustet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac (11.9.2021)
Typically a blend of Sémillon with some Sauvignon and a small but not insignificant portion of Muscadelle. Aged in predominantly old oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, dark golden yellow color with a medium-deep bronze core. Sweet and very expressive nose with a pronounced, exotic streak of saffron, which segues into sweeter nuances of caramel, acacia honey, some cloudberry jam, light tangerine marmalade notes and a hint of savory old wood. The wine is sweet, juicy and slightly sticky on the palate with a full body and ripe, almost luscious flavors of acacia honey, saffron, some tangerine marmalade, light pineapple notes, a little bit of nectarine, a hint of evolved caramel or toffee character and a hint of ripe orange. The moderately high acidity is perfectly in balance with the richness and the body, lending the wine enough structure to not just perform well on its own, but to pair wonderfully with rich, funky cheeses. The finish is rich, sweet and juicy with long, complex flavors of caramel, saffron, some overripe apricot, light cloudberry jam tones, a little bit of burnt sugar bitterness, a hint of canned pineapple and a touch of beeswax.
A lovely, classic aged Sauternes that has evolved enough to develop that distinct saffron note, yet doesn’t come across as too tertiary in any way - even though the dark, bronze color might suggest otherwise. All in all, a lovely sticky that is in a great shape right now and is not going to be falling apart anytime soon - on the contrary, I believe this terrific vintage might actually continue to improve from here. Simply delicious on its own and goes ridiculously well with cheeses. Classic stuff. (94 pts.)
-
2010 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** Alte Reben Caldo Infernale - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11.9.2021)
A biodynamic Riesling from a particularly hot plot in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard known as “Kalk”, recognized since the Roman times. “Kalk” doesn’t actually refer to the chalk content of the soil, because the plot isn’t particularly chalky - instead, “Kalk” comes from a historical Roman name “Calidus” that means “hot”. That is why this goes by the Italian name, which means “infernally hot”. The wine is aged for 2 years in old 1000-liter Fuders. 8,5% alcohol, 128 g/l residual sugar, 13,6 g/l acidity. Bottled under a natural cork. Decanted due to the ample amount of tartrate crystals in the bottle.
The color seems to exhibit the first signs of evolution, as the wine is lacking the luminous neon-green hue it used to be instantly recognizable, instead appearing pale golden yellow in color. Even though the wine was carefully decanted due to the crystal tartrates, there are still some very fine crystals in suspension, lending a slightly hazy appearance to the wine - at least until they settle to the bottom of the glass. The nose feels just simply super-concentrated with intense aromas of lemon marmalade, pineapple and candied ginger jumping at you from the get-go, followed by slightly evolved Riesling nuances of cooked cream and even a whiff of butter, light zesty notes of tangerine, a hint of cool, stony minerality and a touch beeswax. On the palate the intensity is simply out of this world, thanks to the very high residual sugar and the piercing, through-the-roof acidity that manages to clean most of the sugary sweetness away. The overall feel is rich and slightly viscous, yet exceptionally vivacious and weightless at the same time. Intense flavors of tart lemony citrus fruit and almost unripe winter apples, some evolved creamy notes, a little bit of candied ginger, light stony mineral nuances, a subtly bitter hint of stony minerality and a touch of tangy salinity. Remarkable power and sense of structure here, all thanks to the bracing yet not aggressive acidity. The finish is lively, crisp and racy with intensely medium-sweet flavors of lemony citrus fruit and grapefruit marmalade, some tangy saline notes, a little bit of evolved creaminess, light candied ginger tones, a hint of tart Granny Smith apple and a hint of honey.
You could think one would get tired of drinking the same wine over and over again, but I haven’t even tired of writing this same tasting note over and over again! This was my 12th bottle of 2010 Caldo and it still manages to blow the socks off my feet every single darned time. As much I love light, fresh and playful Rieslings - which this wine most certainly is not - I still consider this to be as close to a perfect Riesling as I can get. And the wine still feels a mere baby! Well, not baby perhaps, since it is starting to show the first signs of evolution, but the wine isn’t even middle-aged yet! A teenager, perhaps. What’s so magical in it is that it is so stunning every single time you drink one, yet it holds so much more for the future. And the value here: “a steal” does not even begin to describe the price of the wine (24€). This is really a one-of-its-kind wine. (98 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
