Back at Hawksmoor a few months ago, we talked about doing a Barolo-focused evening next time. That turned into last night: four of us at A Fiori for their no-corkage Monday and a stellar 2000 Barolo horizontal.
Food was delicious. The beef tartare and steelhead trout appetizers were standouts, and the blue crab spaghetti with lemon, Calabrian chili and bottarga was simply divine.
All three Barolos were decanted on arrival and drunk side by side over a couple of hours.
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto — the enigma of the night. Noticeably more bricked than the other two, and while the structure and complexity were clearly there, it lacked the youthful energy of the Cannubi. Leather, iron and earth, but without the dried strawberry/cherry others have noted. Would love to try another bottle to see whether this was bottle variation or storage related, because you could sense the potential underneath.
2000 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis — WOTN, and honestly it wasn’t close. Remarkably fresh and youthful at 26 years old. Blackberry, raspberry, red cherry and licorice, with a balsamic lift on the finish. Tannins fully resolved, everything in balance. Drinking beautifully right now. If you have these, I see no reason to wait.
2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté — the quietest of the trio. Tight and a little ungiving at first, but it kept improving in the glass all evening. As it opened, subtle cherry and strawberry emerged, followed by earth and leather on the finish. Lighter on its feet than the other two, but with plenty of charm by the end of the night.
We closed with a 2001 d’Yquem. Everything that needs to be said about this wine has already been said. Simply perfect.