TN: Three Fianos...(short/boring)

WINE TALK
1

Tried these three together over the weekend:

  1. Harrington Fiano LunaMattaVnyd/PasoRobles (13.6%; www.HarringtonWines.com) 2012: Med.gold color w/ lots of flocculant tartrates crystals; very strong melony/floral/figgy/pear/pear blossoms/spicy light stony/chalky/earthy quite fagrant/perfumed almost R-like; lightly tart/tangy quite lush ripe/melony/figgy/spice light stony/chalky flavor; very long ripe/melony/pear/figgy/spicy light stony/chalky finish; much like a Vermentino or Albarino w/o the floozy/near-muscatty character; speaks of a distinctly Calif/Paso rendition of Fiano w/ some of the stony/chalky character; a really lovely Fiano. $25.00
  1. Unti Fiano DryCreekVlly (13.2%; First crop grafted in 2011; 75 cs; www.UntiVineyards.com) 2012: Light gold color; more stony/mineral/earthy light floral/perfumed/pear fairly fragrant lighter nose; rather tart/grapefruity/lean/light some floral/pear/apple some stony/earthy/mineral flavor; med.long tart/lean/light/grapefruity some floral/pear/apple rather stony/mineral/earthy finish; some like a SauvMusque w/ a noticible earthy/mineral component; an attractive light-on-its-feet white. $23.75
  1. Fiano di Avellino dei Feudi di SanGregorio DOCG: Fiano di Avellino (13%; www.Feudi.It) PalmBayImports 2009: Light gold color; very perfumed/fragrant/almost muscatty strong mango/pineapple/ripe/floral/carnations very light/stony/earthy/chalky quite attractive perfumed nose; bit soft ripe/mango/pineapple/floral/perfumed very slight earthy/stong flavor; med.long ripe/pineapple/mango/floral/bit muscatty-like very light stony/chalky finish; still a very alive wine and showing no signs of its age; quite attractive.
    $23.50 (SFW&S)

A wee BloodyPulpit:

  1. Fiano is a grape that is native to Compagnia. Possibly of Greek origins. Fiano di Avellino is the most famous of its DOC’s. Supposedly brought back from near-extinction by Mastroberardino. I’ve never had one of his Fianos. A low-yielding grape, it supposedly takes to aging quite well, though I’ve never had any aged versions. A few plantings in McLarenVale and tiny plantings in Calif.
    An interesting comparison of Fianos. All quite nice wines from a god-forsaken grape. They all three showed some of that chalky/mineral I find in Fiano (and lots of other grapes). But I doubt I could pick out a Fiano amongst a bunch of Albarinos or Vermentinos.
    I slightly preferred the Harrington for its greater intensity (guess I just have that ParkerPalate…those these are wines that’d never deign to be drunk in Monktown). I’ve never been a big fan of the Feudi di SanGregorio whites, often finding them on the lean/eviscerated side. This was probably the best white I’ve had from this producer.
    Tom
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Tom, the wine internet would be a duller place without you.

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And certainly less weird, Oliver.
Tom

4

You’re right, Fiano really does age. I think it resembles dry Chenin Blanc when it gets older, and I love mature Savennieres.

5

Hi Tom,

“Flocculant”–wow; nice word. And yes, thanks for the notes. I had the Terredora Fiano Di Avellino Campore '10 recently; didn’t like it as much as I was hoping, a little metallic for one thing. I thought Oliver, on another board, had touted the Feudi di San Gregorio version, so I had been keeping my out for this varietal, but I may be mistaken. None of the southern Italian whites that I have had have matched my favorites from the north–Cornellissen’s orange wine was also a disappointment, though the same is not necessarily true with the reds. (Been digging those Nerello Mascaleses.)

All the best!
Josh

6

Yup…I’d chilled the Harrington down in the freezer a bit too much and when I saw all that whitish stuff swirling around in the wine,
I’d thought they were seminal ice crystals in there. But instead of floating, they sunk to the bottom. But very fine/flakey flakes,
not the usual hard crystals you find from tartrates. But I’m assuming they were tartrates and I was just doing some of my own cold-fining.
Many of the Southern Italian whites can have a certain coarsness to them and a lack of the high-toned character you get from the North.
This SanGregorio was one of the better ones I’ve had.

Nice hearing from you again, Josh. You need to come to SantaFe again.
Tom

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I got a couple bottles of 2011 Donnachiara Fiano di Avellino at Zachy’s recently when the owner was pouring. Tart apples, pineapple, nice acidity and minerality a pleasant fresh flavor profile.

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I’d love to visit again, Tom,

I’m not sure when that’s going to be, though. Thanks for the invite. (I had such a good time last time.) I’ll be sure to be in touch when I do.

Best,
Josh

Yup…I’d chilled the Harrington down in the freezer a bit too much and when I saw all that whitish stuff swirling around in the wine,
I’d thought they were seminal ice crystals in there. But instead of floating, they sunk to the bottom. But very fine/flakey flakes,
not the usual hard crystals you find from tartrates. But I’m assuming they were tartrates and I was just doing some of my own cold-fining.
Many of the Southern Italian whites can have a certain coarsness to them and a lack of the high-toned character you get from the North.
This SanGregorio was one of the better ones I’ve had.

Nice hearing from you again, Josh. You need to come to SantaFe again.
Tom[/quote]

9

Josh,

For what it’s worth, Campania is now my favorite Italian white wine area. But you really have to be selective with producers (maybe that’s true pretty much anywhere). Last night I went to A16 in Oakland and drank Benito Ferrara Greco, and a Taburno Falanghina, and they were both complex and intriguing, particularly the Greco. Fiano di Avellino is my favorite Italian white wine grape.

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OhOh, Oliver…I’m telling Sandi Skerk on you!!! [stirthepothal.gif]
Tom

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We’ll drink a Fiano with some age on it next time you’re in town, Tom.

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Which will be in a couple of weeks for RibollaFest.
I’ll be in touch.
Tom

13

I think the Mastroberardino Fiano, Falanghina and Greco di Tufo are all a step ahead of those mentioned here. There is a greater minerality found in his whites. Recently I also had a Fiano from Quintodecimo which set the bar much higher (albeit at a higher price), but its easy to notice how much better wines can be made from these grapes.
I’ve been to Feudi, its a very large mass production place (but I liked their restaurant a lot).
Its like comparing Banfi to Soldera

14

Gary,

Are you comparing Mastroberardino to Soldera in terms of production?

15

I was trying (poorly) to make the analogy that Feudi is to Banfi as Soldera is to Quintodecimo … in general terms (quality and production)

16

Got it.

17

Stefano di Marzo of Torricino is the god king who walks on water down there. Losing him really hurt but he needed more distribution.

Loren Sonkin once posted that the wine below “stopped and then redirected the conversation at a party, wow…” and his Fiano is even better.





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I think there are a number of great small producers of Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo. Pietracupa has a justly deserved reputation, Villa Diamante is great, I import Ciro Picariello is a great Fiano producer and is becoming a great producer of Greco…

19

Wow, I know you drink a lot of Italian wine, Oliver, so I would never dismiss a comment by you out of hand, but I have to admit that when I read that Campania is your favorite region for whites, my first thought was Richie Ashburn’s frequent utterance during broadcasts - “Hard to believe, Harry!”.

Better than the Alto Adige? Like I said, wow.

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Fifteen years ago I would have thought I was crazy, Bob.