Another fun night in the local wine group getting through 12 wonderful bottles between the 6 of us. No theme and no coordination - pure happenstance that two different people both brought Mugnier Amoureuses. All served blind with the somm deciding the tasting order. Lafon the only coming from the list, the rest all BYOB. Notes in the order the wines were served.
Ulysse Collin ‘Les Perrieres’ 2014
Brought by the Danish importer so upon smelling my mind immediately went to Ulysse. That amazing slightly oxy expression, high piercing acidity and tons of minerallity. Clearly coming from a relatively cold vintage, and I did end up getting 2014 - which I mostly prescribe to luck however. Great way to kick off the night.
Krug GC 159
Super fun bottle. Felt young and like it had so much pent up energy not fully ready to come out to play yet. It reminded me of the Krug 2008 I had a month or so ago, which also ended up being my guess. Very surprised to see it revealed as the 159 where base vintage is 2003. Super impressive, but needs more time for my palate - clearly preferred the Ulysse for current drinking.
Arnoux Lachaux NSG ‘Les Proces’ 2018
Brought by a friend who spent two years making wines in the cellar at the domaine (think he was part of the team making the 2020 and 2021s) which made the experience even better - fun to get some inside stories after the reveal. The wine was so sensual and elegant. Super light on its feet, and kind of felt like your nostrils got wrapped in the finest, scented, silk. On the palate it had a similar elegance, but perhaps not the same level of complexity and depth as on the nose. I wine I could sniff for days. Guesses ranged from great 1er Chambolles in 2017 to Mugneret Gibourg Echezeaux 2014 - super impressive what Charles managed to do in 2018.
Guffens-Heynen 1er Jus des Hauts des Vignes 2018
One of my two brings. I simply love this stuff, and have always claimed that the top wines from the domaine can hold its own against the best GC white burgundies. Unfortunately no one brought anything it could be paired with (the Lafon was bough off the list at the end of the night), but the guesses clearly showed what I expected. The guys pretty quickly settled on Leflaive Batard 2015 or 2018, which to me made perfect sense. It undoubtedly had GC complexity, intensity and length - both on the nose and palette. On the palate it had an insane amount of dry extract and viscosity, coupled with more tropical notes that immediately made you think of Puligny - all being kept in check by the intense acidity. Amazing wine.
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin 2014
Took one whiff of this and immediately asked if it was a Rousseau. It had that Rousseau sexiness on the nose that I find difficult to describe, but always find when drinking wines from the domaine. The table was a bit split on this however, with half of the group finding it a bit unbalanced and having too much of a barnyard funk to it. I loved it, and greatly preferred it to the Bonnes Mares served next to it. Not the most intellectual wine, but too me it had a ton of charm.
Dujac Bonnes Mares 2014
This one also split the table, with the half that didn’t like the Rousseau finding this very elegant and mineral. The Ulysse imported called the vineyard pretty quickly and found it very interesting. I normally love a good ‘thinking persons’ wine, but just found it a bit too closed and angular. Could see it becoming a great wine in 5-10 years from now however, as the material is clearly there.
Rayas 2011
My other bring and unfortunately my least favourite Rayas experience thus far. It wasn’t bad, it just didn’t have the same level of Rayas-magic that they normally have - less intense strawberry and gariggue than normally. A few called it Rayas, but from a bad vintage and others guessed Bonneau 99 or 01. Have had the 11 a few times before where it has been better - and can’t imagine it having dropped off this much in a relatively short amount of time, so am guessing that is simply a case of bottle variation.
Mugnier Amoureuses 2008
WOTN and probably also WOTY. Simply one of my best red burgundy experiences ever - especially given the fact that is was served alongside the almost equally great 2012. Similar sensuality to the Lachaux, but with a few extra gears on all parameters. So perfumed, elegant, intense without being heavy, beautiful in its red fruit and with some secondary notes peeping out as well. I am in love.
Mugnier Amoureuses 2012
Very similar to the 08, but to my palate with half a gear less. Would still have been WOTN without the 08 on the table but the 08 was simply just otherworldly good. Again something that split the table a bit, myself and two others had the 08 above, whilst the other three thought the 12 had more refinement.
Arnoux Lachaux Clair de Lies 2020
The most rare wine at the table, and probably the most rare wine I’ve ever had. A blend of the leftovers from each barrel at the domaine - so a blend of everything from the regional Pinot Fin to the GCs - gifted to the winemaking team (and prob some other friends and family). Obviously was difficult to come right after the Amour set, but was so different that it actually worked. Much darker, more muscular and with quite strong tannin grip. Despite still having some Amour in my other glasses, I found myself drawn to this as well. Super fun to try and would love to try it again with more age - clearly has the legs to go many, many years. Hopefully will get the chance as the provider of the bottle has a few more in the cellar.
Selosse Millesime 2013
Probably just edging out the Guffens for 3rd place on the WOTN list - or perhaps a tie. Amazing stuff. Finest example of the Selosse oxyness while retaining amazing freshness I have tried.
Lafon Meursault 1er Perrieres 2020
Pretty wine, but lacked a bit of everything to be honest. I guessed Ente Meursault village - great village wine, but didn’t feel like more than that. And for once there was consensus all around the table. Guess it is just a matter of the wine needing a lot more time.
Love nights like these!
