TN: The "natural" movement in Bordeaux

NV (but actually 2009) Clos de Mounissens Vin de Table Français “Une Vie après l’Autre” - France, Vin de Table Français (10/4/2012)
David Poutays seems to like doing everything differently. When the law states that alcohol must be either x,0% or x,5% on the label, Poutays prints labels with 13,2%. Since this is a Vin de Table he is not allowed to put a vintage on the label, so instead he brands the DIAM cork with 2009. He makes a wine from southern Gironde at St.-Pierre-d’Aurillac in a classic Bordeaux blend (44% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Cabernet Franc) which he ages in neutral oak sur lie for 12 months. He doesn’t add any sulphur and uses just ambient yeasts so this can be classified as “natural”.

The first truly striking thing is how classically warm year Bordeaux this smells like (but without any oak interference - if you can actually imagine this situation with Bordeaux! :smiley: ). It has ripe, dark, sweet fruit but wonderful leafy freshness and quite delicious damp earth aromas, too. The palate shows a slight kinship with Cornelissen’s wines from Etna, but not as strongly as in the couple previous vintages I have had of this wine. Very ripe, but still recognisable as a Bordeaux blend; lovely, ripe but palate refreshing tannins; low in acidity, but the freshness from the tannins make up for that. Of the 2005 I still wrote that it was on the wild end of the “natural” spectrum. In 2009 I can no longer say that: this may be philosophically a part of the “natural” movement, but the aromas and sensations are pretty much mainstream - but they are mainstream of excellent quality IMO. I really like this. But I can’t come up with many other names in Bordeaux that go the “natural” path: Tire Pé, La Haie(?), Rousset-Peyraguey are, but are there others too? Surely there must be?

There are some naturals in Bordeaux… Meylet comes to mind.