A report from one of those old Nebbiolo tastings I’ve attended.
I’ve been to enough of them to know that even if Nebbiolo can age like crazy, there are still parameters like lesser vintages, poor storage conditions (prior to purchase) and bottle variation that can result in wines that are not just past their peak, but have been dead for probably decades (even if I’ve tasted the very same label a few years earlier and the wine has been in a pristine condition).
Well, such was the case this time. The person who arranged the tasting seldom buys older Nebbiolo without seeing the bottles first - this is just because he knows how much poor stuff there is going around. His normal MO is to inspect every old bottle with a flashlight and if the wine looks either brown, too pale or cloudy, he won’t buy it. I understood all these bottles were inspected carefully when they were bought (a majority of them a decade or even longer ago), but still the track record wasn’t that good. We had a corked bottle or two, but the biggest problem was that a good deal of the wines were either fading away with oxidation, or just long gone.
However, I must say that when the wines were good, they were nothing short of stunning. Especially that 1964 Barbaresco Riserva was easily one of the best Nebbiolos I’ve had in a long, long time.
We had also some extras to go around. One person who was leaving the offsite tasting room when we arrived had a little bit of Monprivato left, so he poured small samples for a few of us before he left. After the tasting we had a few extra non-Nebbiolo Italians, too - some of which were unfortunately left out of this bottle photo.
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2017 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
100% Nebbiolo from the Monprivato cru in Castiglione Falletto, planted between the 1960's and 1996. Fermented and macerated with the skins for 20 to 25 days, then aged for approximately 30 months in medium-sized oak botti. 14,5% alcohol.
Beautifully luminous, translucent and relatively pale raspberry red color. True to the vintage, the nose feels sweet and sunny with aromas of ripe cherries, some licorice, a little bit of cranberry sauce, light floral notes of dried roses and a candied hint of black Bassett's wine gum. Contrasting the sweet nose, the wine feels dry, clean and quite sleek on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and very intense flavors of tart lingonberries and ripe cranberries, some tart red plum tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light stony mineral nuances and a youthful hint of something vaguely rubbery. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy tannins and a tiny bit of alcohol warmth. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and quite dry with a bright, crunchy aftertaste of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some crunchy red plum tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of licorice root and a touch of cranberries..
A fantastic and very harmonious Barolo that comes across as very fresh, focused and even surprisingly delicate or Burgundian despite the hot, dry 2017 vintage - even if the nose might give wrong first impressions! To my surprise - and delight - the wine is surprisingly classically styled, but (as one could expect from a 5-yo Barolo) still so painfully youthful at the moment. This is a terrific wine - probably the best 2017 Barolo I've tasted - but I'd say there's no point in opening a bottle before its 12th birthday. At the moment the wine doesn't really feel that dissimilar to a regular Barolo; it is going to take some time before the full potential of this wine gets realized. Keep, don't drink.
(93 points) -
1988 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13% alcohol.
Pale, very evolved brick-red color with an oxidative syrupy-brown hue. The nose feels old, oxidative and moderately tired with aromas of pungent aldehydic character, some mushroomy funk, a little bit of chopped peanuts, light dried red fruit notes, a hint of raisiny dark fruit, a touch of tar and a whiff of minty greenness. The wine feels aged, somewhat oxidative and slightly metallic on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of diluted lingonberry juice, some nutty notes of oxidation, a little bit of wizened dark plum, light strawberry tones and a hint of gravelly minerality. The wine is high in acidity with modestly grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is old, long and somewhat oxidative with flavors of crunchy cranberries, some metallic notes of rusted iron, a little bit of wizened red plum, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of soy sauce and a salty touch of rancio.
An old, tired and rather oxidative vintage of Barbaresco Riserva. At this point it's hard to assess whether this was an off bottle or if this vintage is already past its peak. Although not completely in pieces, this wine wasn't really drinkable anymore. A shame.
(NR/flawed) -
1987 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13% alcohol.
Clear, noticeably evolved pomegranate color with a slightly nutty-brown hue. The nose feels ripe, somewhat reticent and quite evolved with aromas of earth, some earthy tones, a little bit of raisiny fruit, light balsamic tones, a hint of wizened cranberry and a touch of cooked meat. The wine feels dry, silky and rather evolved on the palate with flavors of tart cranberries, some metallic notes of rusty iron, a little bit of tar, light sweeter notes of wizened cherries and raisins, a hint of lingonberry and an oxidative touch of beef jerky. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy but not aggressive tannins. The finish is dry, quite tertiary and moderately grippy with a long, aged aftertaste of cranberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of sweet raisiny fruit, light metallic notes of iron, a hint of tar and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
An aged Barbaresco slowly gliding downhill. This would've been a nice and enjoyable effort if it weren't for the metallic notes that quite effectively distract from the pleasure. Although the wine wasn't as over-evolved and oxidative as the 1988 Barbaresco Riserva, this was still too old for my taste. If this bottle was representative of the vintage, I'd say this should've been drunk at least a decade earlier. Leaving the wine unrated. -
1976 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
There was a huge chunk of quite solid deposit in the bottle, which might explain the atypically pale color of the wine. 13,2% alcohol.
Clear, quite pale and fully translucent brick-orange color with an oxidative nutty-brown hue. The nose feels pungent with oxidative aromas of chopped nuts, sorrel and rancio, some raisiny tones, a little bit of syrupy richness, a hint of sweet malty character and a touch of caramel. The wine feels old, dry and oxidative on the palate with a light-to-medium body and aged, slightly watery flavors of nutty rancio and soy sauce, some aldehydic notes of sorrel, a little bit of ripe gooseberry, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a hint of blood and a touch of salt-cured meat. The wine is noticeably high in acidity with somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, tired and quite oxidative on the palate with a flat, tertiary aftertaste of soy sauce and salt-cured meat, some metallic tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light malty tones, a hint of smoke and a touch of sorrel.
A tired and oxidative Barbaresco that is just too old for its own good. This might've been in good condition still in the 2000's, but at the moment very little of anything remains. This has not just one foot in the grave, but also the other one as well, along with most of the torso.
(NR/flawed) -
1974 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,2% alcohol.
Luminous, medium-deep maple syrup color with a rather pale amber rim. The nose feels very evolved, juicy and quite mushroomy with aromas of dried parasol mushroom, some wizened plums, a little bit of gasoline, light raisiny tones, a hint of chanterelle fried in butter, a nutty touch of raisin and a whiff of rainy coniferous forest. The wine feels old, ripe and tertiary with a medium body and very aged flavors of salt-cured beef and tar, gravelly mineral tones, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of wizened red plum, light crunchy nuances of tart lingonberries, a hint of fried chanterelles and a metallic touch of rusty iron. The wine is high in acidity but the tannins are almost fully resolved and there is very little grip to the wine. The finish is dry, old and quite long with a tiny bit of tannic grip and a tertiary aftertaste of salt-cured beef and soy sauce, some aldehydic notes of sorrel, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light tart notes of lingonberries, a hint of sweet pruney fruit and a metallic touch of iron.
A very old Barbaresco somewhat past its peak. This wasn't as completely oxidative (ie. rather oxidized) and dead as the 1988 and 1976 vintages, instead coming across as still somewhat drinkable. However, there remains very little character here and the wine is mostly overrun by very tertiary and somewhat oxidative notes - and also has that tiny bit of metallic character that also distracts from pleasure. All in all, this is still somewhat enjoyable, but not really the kind of stuff I look forward to when opening a bottle of aged Nebbiolo.
(82 points) -
1971 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, evolved and moderately deep pomegranate color. Fragrant, quite ripe and rather evolved nose with attractive, layered aromas of smoke and tar-flavored candies, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of sweet strawberry-driven red fruit, light leathery notes, a hint of meat stew and a touch of beef jerky. The wine feels developed and quite intense on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of cranberries, meaty notes of savory umami, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tar and smoke, light balsamic nuances of VA, sweet hints of strawberry and ripe dark fruits and a touch of dried flowers. The structure relies both on the high acidity and the ample, firm yet silky and quite friendly tannins. The finish is silky, complex and gently grippy with a long, quite acid-driven aftertaste of strawberries, tar, some wizened cranberry tones, a little bit of crunchy sour cherry, light tertiary notes of beef jerky and meat consommé, a hint of dried-fruit sweetness and a touch of dried roses.
An excellent, vibrant and wonderfully balanced Barbaresco where all the pieces seem to be in the right places and even if the wine feels quite evolved and tertiary in nature, the wine is yet to go downhill. It feels as though the wine has entered its plateau of maturity many years - perhaps even decades - ago, yet it just sits there, unmoved and unchanging. Although this vintage wasn't at the same level of quality as the extraordinary 1970 and 1964 vintages, this was still easily among the best vintages we tasted in the Borgogno 1988-1947 vertical. A fantastic example of fully mature Nebbiolo by any standards. It feels the wine won't benefit from any additional aging, but I don't see it falling apart anytime soon, either. However, I was really surprised how Borgogno's Barolo Riserva 1971 was way past its peak when this Barbaresco Riserva was just singin'.
(95 points) -
1971 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Pale, very old reddish-brown color that turns towards burnished yellow close to the rim. The nose feels old, quite tired and somewhat oxidative with aromas of sorrel and raisins, some soy sauce, a little bit of moist coffee grounds, light sweet ethery notes of VA, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of dried cranberries. The wine is old, tired and oxidative on the palate with a moderately full body and very evolved, salty flavors of soy sauce and chopped nuts, some raisiny tones, a little bit of old leather, light gravelly mineral notes, lifted hints of ethery VA and sharp acetic character and a touch of sorrel. The wine is high in acidity with a little bit of tannic grip. The finish is old, tired and quite oxidative with a long, saline aftertaste of smoke and tar, some salt-cured beef, a little bit of nutty rancio, light raisiny tones, a sharp hint of acetic VA and a touch of soy sauce.
Ugh, this was pretty badly over the hill. It's remarkable how vibrant, nuanced and still wonderfully alive the 1971 Borgogno Barbaresco Riserva was, whereas this Barolo seemed like a wine that must've been past its peak for the past decade or two. Some people say Nebbiolos that seem to be oxidized and past their peaks turn better with prolonged aeration, but this did nothing but turned to worse over the evening. It was pretty much in shambles when it was first served in the tasting and re-evaluating the wine again after the tasting, it was completely dead. Either we had a bad bottle or then this Barolo just wasn't made to live this long.
(NR/flawed) -
1971 M. Marengo Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
Quite deep and intense maroon color. The nose feels dull and musty with aromas of wet cardboard and mildew. The wine is firm, dry and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and musty TCA flavors of mildew and dull dusty tones, a little bit of sour cherry and a hint of ferrous blood. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is short, dry and hollow with flavors of dusty attic, some mildew and a somewhat persistent note of stony minerality.
Corked.
(NR/flawed) -
1970 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and somewhat evolved cherry-red color. The nose feels ripe and fragrant with seductive aromas of juicy black cherries, some balsamic overtones, a little bit of something perhaps minty, light meaty nuances, a hint of lingonberry jam and a touch of dried roses. The wine is ripe, rich and so silky on the palate with a full body and complex, quite tertiary flavors of juicy black cherries and pine tar, some minty notes of medicinal herbs, a little bit of balsamic richness, light meaty nuances of savory umami, a hint of dried flowers and a sweet touch of dried dark fruits. The wine is quite high in acidity and the firm yet rather resolved tannins frame the wine's structure nicely without making it aggressively grippy at any point. The finish is juicy, quite dry and gently grippy with a very long, savory aftertaste of wizened black cherries and balsamico, some lifted minty notes, a little bit of tar, light crunchy notes of tart lingonberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of meaty umami.
An absolutely fantastic old Barbaresco at its peak. After so many disappointing Borgogno Barbarescos that were either quite tired or completely past their peak, we had a streak of three gorgeous Barbaresco Riservas - 1971, 1970 and 1964 - that were simply one better after the other. All of them were still full of life and vibrant fruit, not showing any signs of oxidation or tiredness, but tasting them side by side, I'd say this wine was slightly better than the 1971 vintage, but didn't manage to reach the heights shown by the 1964 vintage. Nevertheless, this was easily among the best wines we tasted in our Borgogno vertical that evening. A stunning wine that won't evolve any further, but isn't going to fall apart any time soon either.
(96 points) -
1964 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, quite translucent and still remarkably youthful cherry-red color with a brick-orange rim. The nose feels nuanced, somewhat restrained and slightly sweet-toned with attractive, layered aromas of dark fruits, some balsamic tones, a little bit of wizened red cherry, light floral nuances of dried roses, a hint of ethery VA, a touch of nutmeg and a whiff of espresso. The wine feels evolved, complex and quite concentrated on the palate with a full body and very intense flavors of wizened black cherries, some tar, a little bit of espresso, light meaty notes of savory umami, a hint of dried cranberry and a touch of old leather. Despite its age of almost 60 years, the wine still retains remarkable structure with its high acidity and still surprisingly ample, grippy and chewy tannins. The finish is complex, rather grippy and firm yet silky smooth with a rather evolved and very persistent aftertaste of wizened sour cherries, some balsamic VA, a little bit of ripe red plum, light meaty notes of umami, a hint of old leather and a touch of marmaladey red fruit.
A fantastic old Barbaresco that seemed so much younger than any of us anticipated - especially after so many Borgogno Barbarescos that had been decade or two younger in age, yet still disappointingly way past their prime. Only the outrageous trio of three exceptional vintages - 1971, 1970 and 1964 - managed to show what Borgogno's Barbaresco Riservas can be at their best. This 1964 was unanimously thought to be the best of the three great vintages, but the 1970 and 1971 didn't need to feel ashamed next to this extraordinary wine - they all were everything one could expect from a fully mature Nebbiolo. This wine is at its peak right now, but even if it doesn't benefit from any additional aging, I don't feel it is going to be falling apart anytime soon. Drink or keep.
(97 points) -
1964 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
The label says Castello di Verduno Vino Barolo - G. B. Burlotto. This is because the Burlotto family purchased Castello di Verduno in 1909 and it was still under the ownership of the one family when the wine was bottled. In 1968, when Ignazio Burlotto died, the estate was split into three separate wineries (G. B. Burlotto, Castello di Verduno and Cascina Massara). 13,5% alcohol.
Evolved, quite pale and somewhat oxidative nutty-brown color. Pungent, old and somewhat aldehydic nose with aromas of syrupy richness, some green birch leaves, a little bit of caramel, light raisiny tones, a hint of green almonds and a touch of beef jerky. The wine feels rich, old and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and very tertiary flavors of balsamic richness and wizened black cherries, some acetic notes of vinegary VA, a little bit of dried figs, light aldehydic notes of green almonds, a hint of strawberry jam and a touch of salt-cured meat. The wine is quite high in acidity with very gentle, soft and fully resolved tannins. The finish is old, quite long and somewhat sweet-toned with flavors of sweet, wizened dark fruits, some dried figs, a little bit of meaty umami, light oxidative notes of soy sauce and beef jerky, a hint of old leather and an aldehydic touch of rancio.
Pretty completely past its peak. Apart from the pungent aldehydic notes, this was quite enjoyable for an old, anonymous old wine. However, this was a mere shadow of the bottle we had six years ago, when the wine was pretty lovely indeed (apart from its slightly elevated levels of VA).
(NR/flawed) -
1964 Oddero Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
14% alcohol.
Medium-deep and noticeably old nutty brown color. The nose feels old, tertiary and slightly aldehydic with sweet aromas of syrupy richness and raisiny dark fruits, some aldehydic notes of nutty rancio and sorrel, a little bit of vanilla custard, light arrack tones, a hint of dried dates and a touch of tar. The wine feels rich, quite concentrated and surprisingly substantial on the palate with a full body and bold, tertiary flavors of prunes and dried dates, some oxidative notes of meat stew and soy sauce, light nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of balsamic VA, a hint of vanilla custard and a touch of wizened black cherries. Even though the fruit department is going downhill, the wine still retains remarkable sense of structure, thanks to its high acidity and quite formidable and grippy yet not rough or aggressive tannins. The finish is rich, ripe and quite old with a somewhat tired aftertaste of raisiny dark fruit and dried dates, some aldehydic notes of sorrel, a little bit of balsamic richness, light oxidative nuances of soy sauce and rancio, a hint of wizened black cherries and a touch of pine tar.
It's obvious this wine is already past its peak - especially if one takes into account how incredibly impressive this wine was some five years ago, when I last tasted it. However, one can still obviously taste the exceptional quality of the 1964 vintage, because the wine still retains such impressive sense of weight, power and structure that are almost unheard-of in other Barolos of that age. Even if the nose feels quite old, tired and aldehydic, the wine is much more enjoyable on the palate, showing mainly just very tertiary fruit framed with an impressive structure - and relatively little of those oxidative, aldehydic tones that tend to distract from and not add to pleasure. Although the wine didn't live to the expectations set by the bottle we had tasted earlier, this was still relatively drinkable for what it was. It's hard to assess whether we had a compromised bottle this time or if the wine is already on a decline, but as the wine doesn't really benefit from any additional aging, any remaining bottles are best drunk sooner rather than later. This is a formidable wine that should be enjoyed while it is still alive and it might be its days are getting numbered.
(85 points) -
1962 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Deep, luminous, moderately translucent and quite developed pomegranate color. The nose feels pungent and smoky, but not really oxidized, just evolved. There aromas of smoke and pine tar, some old leather, a little bit of wild strawberry, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of wizened red plums and a touch of earth. The wine is ripe, evolved and tertiary on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of juicy red forest fruits, some plummy tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light meaty notes of game and beef jerky, a hint of earth and a smoky touch of tar. The wine is impressively structured with its high acidity and noticeably grippy, grainy tannins. The finish is evolved and very tannic with a long, intense aftertaste of gravelly minerality, some gamey tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light tertiary notes of meat stew, a hint of tar and a touch of leather.
A very impressive, complex and structured Barbaresco that is still surprisingly alive and vibrant for its age. After the astounding 1964, 1970 and 1971 vintages, this 1962 feels a bit lesser in comparison, but nevertheless a terrific old Barbaresco in its own right, showing more than enough structure, depth and complexity for anybody looking for a fine, fully mature Nebbiolo. Superb stuff that is on the cusp of going downhill. Although the wine is very tertiary and there are some subtly oxidative undertones, I'd say the wine is yet to go downhill, but it won't hold for much longer. Better to drink sooner rather than later when the wine might not be in a shape as great as it still is now.
(93 points) -
1961 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Slightly hazy, quite pale and very aged pomegranate color with a slightly brown hue. The nose feels dull, somewhat restrained and a bit dusty with aromas of wizened red fruits, some earth, a little bit of dried strawberry and a hint of decomposing wood. The wine is dry, dull and pretty reticent on the palate with a medium body and very understated flavors of wizened strawberries, some earthy notes, a little bit of sweet red plum and a hint of something dusty. High acidity with moderately resolved yet rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, moderately grippy and juicy yet not fruity with a rather short aftertaste of earth, some old leather notes, a little bit of wizened strawberry and a hint of dusty attic.
Dull, reticent and very undemonstrative old Barbaresco. We were discussing whether the wine had just faded away with age or if it was ever so slightly corked. Whatever the case was, the wine didn't really offer any pleasure. Leaving the wine unrated since we didn't reach a conclusion whether the wine was faulty or not. -
1958 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (15.11.2022)
The label says "Borgogno Barbaresco - Propri Vigneti Canubi" and there is a neck label that says "Riserva 1958".
Deep yet translucent amber-to-maple syrup brown with a reddish core. The nose feels aged, somewhat oxidative and slightly sweet-toned with aromas of meat stew, some beef jerky, light smoky nuances, a little bit of ripe cranberry and wizened red plum, a hint of cigar smoke, a touch of earth and a pungent whiff of nutty rancio. The wine is firm, focused and very tertiary on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of smoke and pipe tobacco, some oxidative notes of soy sauce, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint gravelly minerality and a touch of pine tar. The wine still retains quite a bit of structure, thanks to its high acidity and still rather firm tannins. The finish is dry, tertiary and somewhat grippy with a long, complex and slightly oxidative aftertaste of tar and tangy soy sauce, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of cigar smoke, light gravelly mineral notes, a sweeter hint of prune and a sharp touch of rancio.
A nice, old Barbaresco slightly over the hill. The nose feels a bit more old and tired than how the wine actually tastes like and, I must say, for a wine this old and tertiary, this is still thoroughly enjoyable. Of course this is not up to par with the best old Nebbiolos - and this was a far cry from the stunning 1971, 1970, 1964 and 1962 vintages we had just before this - but still much better than most of the other vintages, which more or less completely dead and in pieces.
(86 points) -
1955 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Surpising appearance: strikingly pale salmon-red rosé color. Honestly, the wine does not look at all like any other Barolo or Barbaresco Riserva we had in the vertical. The nose feels dry, aged and quite complex with layered aromas of raisins, some creamy tones - even strawberry cream - and light notes of marzipan, a little bit of ripe redcurrant, a green-toned hint of birch leaves, a touch of cocoa powder and a whiff of cherry marmalade. The wine is dry, silky and quite idiosyncratic on the palate with a medium body and evolved flavors of ripe red cherries, some tertiary nutty tones, a little bit of toffee, light syrupy notes of molasses, a green-toned hint of birch leaves and a touch of raspberry yogurt. The wine is moderately high in acidity with firm medium tannins. The finish is dry, juicy and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of nectarine, some cherry tones, a little bit of oxidative toffee character, light saline nuances of aldehydic tang, a hint of raisiny fruit and a touch of nutty rancio.
This was a very weird wine - completely unlike any other Borgogno Barolo or Barbaresco Riserva we tasted. Many suspected that the bottle was tampered or fake, but it had an original Borgogno cork that showed no signs of foul play. I have no idea why this wine was so pale, having almost rosé-like appearance, with quite distinctive aromatics and flavors that set this wine apart from any other wine we had. However, if the wine was indeed what it was supposed to be, it was remarkably youthful for its age and despite showing some quite aged and subtly oxidative notes, the wine was thoroughly enjoyable and very complex effort all the same. A curiosity by all accounts, but fortunately quite a delicious one at that.
(90 points) -
1947 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (15.11.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Clear, luminous and rather translucent reddish-maroon color. Evolved, quite tertiary and subtly sweet-toned nose with aromas of meat stew and syrupy richness, some tomato purée, a little bit of old leather, light notes of smoke and tobacco, a hint of dried dates, a touch of dried roses and an oxidative whiff of rancio. The wine is dry, very evolved and quite savory on the palate with a rather full body and layered flavors of meat stew and beef jerky, some cranberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberries, light notes of dried tobacco, a hint of salty liquorice and a pungent touch of rancio. The wine still retains good sense of balance and structure, thanks to its high acidity and firm yet rather resolved medium tannins. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with flavors of cranberries, some salty liquorice, a little bit of oxidative rancio character, light sweet flavors of dried dark fruits and raisins, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of wild strawberry.
A beautiful, harmonious and thoroughly delicious old Barolo at full maturity. The wine might be a tad oxidative - especially if contrasted with the wonderfully vibrant vintages of Barbaresco Riserva from the 1970's and 1960's we tasted right before this - but the wine still performed magnificently, considering its 75 years of age! After all, we had wines in this tasting that were only half as old, yet they were already flat and dead whereas this wine was still packing wonderful depth, complexity and vibrancy of fruit. I'd say the wine has taken its first steps downhill, but it is yet to fall apart. As the wine won't benefit from any additional aging, I'd say it is high time to drink up any remaining bottles. I'm happy we had this wine now when it still had lots of stuff to offer!
(91 points) -
2019 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barbera d'Alba Scudetto - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (15.11.2022)
A Barbera from a vineyard in Monforte d'Alba. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks for 15-20 days employing floating cap method, ie. no punch-downs. Aged for a few months in oak barrels for complexity, then kept in tanks until bottling. Bottled in the third year after the vintage, ie. this is a fresh release. 14,5% alcohol.
Luminous, quite intense yet moderately translucent blood-red color. There are aromas of dusty cherries, some licorice, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light plummy notes, a sweet hint of dark-toned primary fruit and a touch of boozy alcohol. The wine feels juicy, youthful and quite primary on the palate with a moderately full body and vibrant flavors of tart lingonberries, some sweet black cherry tones, a little bit of savory spice, light sweet notes of overripe dark plums, a primary hint of candied fruit character and a touch of fresh bilberry. The wine is high in acidity with quite modest, gently grippy tannins. The sweet-n-sour finish is juicy sour with quite lengthy flavors of ripe bilberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light spicy notes, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of alcohol warmth.
A promising but still way too youthful single-vineyard Barbera that feels a bit too sweet and candied for my taste with its primary fermentation flavors. As seems quite typical of contemporary Barbera, the alcohol feels a bit too high for my preference, sticking out from the wine rather awkwardly at times, but otherwise the wine shows great sense of intensity, freshness and balance. Most likely this will turn into a serious, well-made Barbera once it ages a bit more and loses its candied primary characteristics. I'd let this wait for at least a few years more, although the wine seems like it could age quite easily for a lot longer. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(89 points) -
2019 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barbera d'Alba Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (15.11.2022)
Made with organically farmed estate fruit. After the fermentation and maceration on the skins, the wine is aged for 12 months in 2nd use French oak barrels. The wine is blended together and left to marry for 2-3 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling. 14% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and completely clear yet almost fully opaque black ruby color. The nose feels very youthful and even slightly primary with aromas of blueberries and blackberry marmalade, some ripe black cherry tones, a little bit of asphalt, light smoky nuances, a hint of alcohol, a touch of savory wood spice and a lifted, perfumed whiff of violets. The wine feels firm, dry and very focused on the palate with a medium body and a taste that doesn't feel nearly as primary as the nose does. There are flavors of brambly black raspberries, some blueberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light crunchy notes of crowberries and fresh red plums, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of alcohol warmth. The structure relies almost completely on its high acidity, as its tannic structure feels very light, supple and gentle. Despite its noticeable ripeness and quite juicy nature, the wine feels more lithe than fat. The finish is dry, juicy and ripe with bright flavors of brambly raspberries and sweeter blackberries, some crunchy notes of sour red plums, a little bit of tart lingonberry, a hint of bilberry and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A surprisingly sophisticated, balanced and tasty Barbera. Its nose didn't promise much with its sweet, almost candied primary aromas. However, the wine turned out to be nicely balanced and savory on the palate, very true to the variety with its dark-toned berry flavors, acid-driven overall character and very gentle tannins. I was a bit afraid the wine would be on the rather oaky side, but the oak influence turned out to be very judicious here - and most likely the little wood impact that shows now will integrate with the fruit if the wine is left to age in a cellar. A very nice effort that drinks really well right now, but will continue to improve for another decade or so. Recommended.
(90 points) -
2017 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (15.11.2022)
Made with organically farmed estate fruit. After the fermentation and maceration on the skins, the wine is aged for 12 months in 2nd use French oak barrels. 14% alcohol.
Quite translucent (yet still relatively dark for a Nebbiolo) cherry red color with a pomegranate hue. The nose feels quite shy and restrained with slightly sweet-toned aromas of licorice and black Bassett's wine gums, some juicy black cherries, a little bit of sunny dark berry character, light savory woody notes, a hint of sun-baked earth and a touch of turmeric or some other dry and earthy spice. The wine feels quite ripe and somewhat extracted on the palate with a moderately full body and quite dry, dark-toned flavors of juicy black cherries, some licorice root, a little bit of earth and savory wood, light notes of tobacco, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of gravelly minerality. The acidity feels quite high and the ample, quite grippy yet not aggressive tannins contribute to the structure quite a bit as well while the alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is ripe yet dry with some tannic grip, a little bit of warmth and a long aftertaste of ripe dark berries and some black cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light notes of tobacco, a hint of licorice root and a touch of savory wood.
Although the hot, dry vintage shows here, this still managed to come across as a surprisingly serious, balanced and even quite stern effort for a Langhe Nebbiolo. Despite its ripe mien and understated yet still somewhat noticeable oak influence, this doesn't come across as too hot, flabby or oaky, but instead quite dry, harmonious and pretty structure-driven. It's obvious the wine is made in a more modern, extracted style, but the win manages to avoid the typical pitfalls of modern Nebbiolo and instead comes across more like a baby Barolo than a simple, one-dimensional Langhe Nebbiolo. I must say that this is surprisingly good stuff for a 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo and thus a positive surprise - I'm not a fan of either 2017 vintage in Piedmont or Langhe Nebbiolo, but I'd rather be drinking this wine than most of 2017 Barolos or Barbarescos, a great majority of which have been just too sweet and alcoholic for my taste. It drinks nicely right now, but will improve for a good handful of years more.
(91 points) -
2012 Gravner Ribolla - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT (15.11.2022)
Fermented spontaneously with the skins in clay amphorae buried underground. After the fermentation and long maceration, the wine was pressed and returned to age for another 5 months in amphorae. After aging in amphorae, the wine was transferred to old botti casks, in which the wine was aged for 6 years. Bottled without fining, filtration or sulfites. 14% alcohol. The wine was tasted blind, but the bottle it was served from was opened about a week earlier before I tasted it.
Beautiful, deep and wonderfully luminous burnished golden color. The nose is just stunning with complex, laryered aromas of beeswax and honeycomb, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of ripe apricot, light zesty notes of clementine, a hint of arctic bramble and a touch of terracotta. There's lots of everything and the overall aroma seems to change with every sniff. The wine feels dry, dense and quite viscous on the palate yet surprisingly fresh and firm at the same time with its rather full body, quite high acidity and gentle, textural and quite resolved tannins. There are layered flavors of honey and beeswax, some ripe nectarine, a little bit of apple jam, light perfumed floral nuances, an exotic hint of fivespice or other fragrant spices and all this followed by a fascinating, savory combination of subtle salinity and rather pronounced streak of umami. It is quite hard to describe the wine fully, but the closest thing I can think of is a Beerenauslese that has all the flavors and viscosity - just not any of the sweetness. This is truly compelling stuff. The finish is long and savory with a tiny bit of tannic grip and a complex aftertaste of beeswax, some acacia honey, a little bit of ripe apricot, light zesty notes of blood orange, a MSG-like hint of umami and a perfumed touch of fragrant wild flowers.
People often seem to complain how orange wines are oxidative, funky and weird. I'm not saying there aren't wines like those, but to group all the wines in the genre into such category is just absurd. For example this wine was not any of those things - well, the jury is still out for "weird", since I guess this might feel like a weird wine if one is unfamiliar with skin-contact whites. However, as a whole, this was just a fantastic wine and easily among the best orange wines I've tasted. The craziest thing was how after I had tasted the wine, the person told me he had actually bought the wine in a restaurant in Italy a week earlier, but after tasting it he thought the wine needed more time, so he just recorked the bottle and took it back home. So this wine was opened about a week ago and it had traveled across Europe - and it was still in a pristine condition! This truly shows how much these Gravners need time and how long they can stay in great shape after opening a bottle. At 80€ in a restaurant, this wasn't an affordable amber wine, but managed to easily deliver for the price. Stunning stuff by any standards, very highly recommended.
(98 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
