Wall of text warning! A long read ahead!
Although Daniel Twardowski is known as the guy making some of the most coveted Pinot Noirs in Germany (and in Mosel, out of all the places!), I assume there must be some people here who don’t recognize the name, so maybe a brief introduction is in place?
Daniel Twardowski (b. 1978) is a fine wine merchant, a wine collector and a Burgundy fanatic from Bremen. He began by acquiring 0,8 hectares (2 acres) of Riesling vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg in 2005. To his neighbors’ dismay, he pulled off the Riesling vines and replanted the vineyard with Pinot Noir. However, the French nurseries had sent him with second-grade material, so the vines had to be pulled off and the vineyard had to be replanted again - this time with material from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Ponsot and Jean Stodden.
Twardowski has learned some winemaking at Armand Rousseau and he also has been helped by Andreas Adam from Weingut AJ Adam. When Twardowski started making wines, he made them in a very stern and rather extracted style, employing new oak barriques for the most part, but also using used oak casks from Armand Rousseau, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Emmanuel-Rouget, Domaine Leroy, etc. However, a few years in, Twardowski realized the style wasn’t perhaps the best suited for his fruit, so he adopted a gentler, less extracted style while decreasing the use of new oak by sourcing more older barrels from France (including barriques from Château Margaux).
Instead of labeling his wines as Pinot Noir or Spätburgunder, he opts to use the term “Pinot Noix” with his main wine, in reference to the nut trees located next to his vineyards. The bird in the label refers to the local ravens that gather nuts from the trees and drop them from a great height to the hard slate soil (ardoise in French) to crack them open.
Twardowski made only one wine - Pinot Noix Ardoise - from his debut vintage 2011 until 2016. However, he has expanded his holdings in Dhroner Hofberg to the current 3-something hectares (about 8 acres). He has made a few vintages of Riesling and new the range also includes a regular “Pinot Noix” (also known as “3rd”) that is made with fruit from younger vines, Hofberg Reserve - a flagship wine made with fruit sourced from a parcel in which Pinot Noir cuttings were grafted to old (40 to 70 yo) Riesling vines - and a sparkling wine.
This tasting was arranged by a person who had painstakingly collected every single vintage of Pinot Noix Ardoise made until the time of the tasting, plus all the other Twardowski wines he could get his hands on. And - as it is almost always with our tastings - after the tasting proper, the attendees started pulling out their extra bottles they had brought with them. So not only we had a huge bunch of Twardowski, but also lots of other terrific wines!
The complete lineup of the evening (although a bottle of Hofgut Falkenstein didn’t make it to the photo, for some reason).
Part 1: The “lesser wines”
- NV Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Brut - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from Dhroner Hofberg. 12% alcohol, 8 g/l residual sugar and 8,3 g/l acidity.
Pale yellow color. The nose feels open with aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple, some nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of leesy autolysis, a hint of toasty character and a touch of spicy Pinosity. Nice! The wine feels moderately ripe and rather leesy on the palate with a medium body and flavors of mealy yellow apples and saline minerality, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of wet rocks and chalk dust, light grapefruity nuances, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of sweetness from the dosage. The acidity feels rather high and the balanced mousse comes across as quite soft and gentle. The finish is rather dry with a medium-long aftertaste of mealy yellow apple, some grapefruit, light bitter notes of apple peel, a little bit of chalk dust, a leesy hint of autolysis and a nutty touch of almonds.
A nice sparkling wine that feels both quite accessible and somewhat understated. The nose leads to expect a wine with more depth and ripeness, but on the palate the wine turns out to be less ripe and less expressive. There are lots of mineral flavors here, but the fruit department falls a bit short - which, in turn, lets the dosage show through quite a bit. I also think that the high dosage makes the acidity feel a bit softer than it should. While a nice and sophisticated sparkling wine in its own right, I don't think this is on par with the red wines of Twardowski. Perhaps a bit on the pricey side for the quality at 24€.
(89 points) - 2019 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
This is labeled only as "Pinot Noix", so to my understanding, this is the young-vine cuvée that later on became "Pinot Noix 3rd". Made with vines of Burgundy clone Pinot Noir up to 10 years old from Dhroner Hofberg. 11,5% alcohol.
Hazy, even somewhat murky cranberry juice color. The nose feels open, expressive and vibrant with fruit-driven aromas of spicy Pinosity, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light fragrant notes of coniferous forest, a hint of wild strawberry and a slightly odd touch of something peppery and rather meaty. The wine feels crunchy and bone-dry on the palate with a very light body and just barely ripe flavors of tart cranberries and redcurrants, some gravelly minerality, light crowberry tones, a hint of unripe strawberry and a touch of sharp appley fruit. The acidity feels very high, whereas the tannins come across as very light and gentle. The finish is dry, crunchy and a bit thin with a moderately long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some crunchy redcurrant tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality and a hint of appley fruit.
A very nervy, high-strung and borderline underripe Pinot Noir that is lacking the depth and nuance found in higher-tier Twardowski reds. Although the nose felt very attractive, the wine didn't really manage to match the expressive aromas on the palate. Although the wine probably isn't going to fall apart anytime soon, I doubt any amount of aging is going to help with the thin, barely ripe fruit. Feels expensive for the quality at 35,90€.
(83 points)
Part 2: Pinot Noix Ardoise
- 2011 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
1st vintage of this wine, made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 18 months in oak pièces / barriques (60% new, old barrels sourced from Romanée-Conti, Armand Rousseau and Emmanuel Rouget). 13% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar and 5,8 g/l acidity. Bottle #786 out of 1,700 total bottles.
Deep, luminous and still rather youthful black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned, spicy and somewhat woody with aromas of cherries and black raspberries, some peppery spice, a little bit of toasty oak, light crunchy notes of red plums, a hint of coffee, a smoky touch of soot and a whiff of funk. The wine feels dense, chewy and somewhat extracted on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of black cherries, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of earthy Pinosity, light tart notes of lingonberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, a sweeter hint of ripe dark berries and a floral touch of violets. The overall feel is balanced and quite structured with its high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is spicy, smoky and savory with some tannic grip and a long aftertaste of savory wood spice, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light brambly notes of raspberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of toasty oak spice.
Although the wine still feels very youthful and not exhibiting any obvious tertiary characteristics, I feel the wine might not be evolving in the direction I expected it to go. When I tasted the wine six years ago, it felt still rather oaky but with enough fruit that the woody tones should integrate without problems, given enough time. Well, it seems that with age the fruit here has diminished slightly, making this wine feel a bit more oaky than before, so it might be that my original assessment was incorrect. Or then the wine is just in an awkward phase right now and just requires more aging. Only time will tell. Fortunately the wine still feels very youthful, so there's still enough room for development - hopefully for the better. Even then, I think the price of the wine (79€) is way too high for the quality. This is a good wine, but not that good.
(92 points) - 2012 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
2nd vintage of this wine, made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 18 months in oak pièces / barriques (40% new, old barrels sourced from Romanée-Conti, Armand Rousseau and Emmanuel Rouget). 13% alcohol. Bottle #295 out of 680 total bottles.
Old, hazy syrupy-brown color with a reddish hue. The nose feels dull, old and oxidative with aromas of meat stew, some pruney tones, a little bit of soy sauce and a hint of dried cherry. The wine feels dry, concentrated and intensely flavored on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and somewhat oxidative flavors of prunes and other dried dark fruits, some meat stew, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a little bit of earth, a hint of wizened red cherry and a touch of beef jerky. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy tannins. The finish is old, moderately grippy and somewhat oxidative with a rather long aftertaste of crunchy cranberry, some salty notes of soy sauce and beef jerky, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light earthy tones, a hint of prunes and a touch of hoisin sauce.
Surprisingly evolved - most likely a premoxed bottle. The wine was still somewhat enjoyable, but definitely not in a shape it should've been. 140€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) - 2013 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
3rd vintage of this wine, made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 18 months in oak pièces / barriques (40% new, old barrels sourced from Romanée-Conti, Armand Rousseau and Emmanuel Rouget). 13% alcohol. Bottle #1034 out of 1388 total bottles.
Luminous, moderately translucent pomegranate color with a thin colorless rim. The nose feels fragrant and expressive with aromas of wizened red fruits, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light sweet notes of toasty oak spice, a hint of something meaty, a floral touch of violets and a faint smoky touch of roasted character. The wine feels ripe and balanced on the palate with a medium body and flavors of juicy black raspberries, some savory woody tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light evolved notes of wizened cherries and other red fruits, a hint of stony minerality and a savory touch of meaty umami. The wine shows good sense of structure with its rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, savory and rather grippy with a long aftertaste of brambly raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of woody oak spice, light evolved notes of wizened cherries, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of toasty oak.
A harmonious and sophisticated vintage of Twardowski Ardoise that is showing some signs of age and nice developed complexity. The wine isn't peaking yet, but it is slowly approaching its apogee. Perhaps the oak influence feels a bit more toasty and less woody than in the 2014 vintage that we tasted next to this vintage - otherwise this is very similar. While both were good, I think I preferred the 2014 vintage a tiny bit more. All in all, a fine wine, but in my opinion not really worth the 69€.
(91 points) - 2014 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in oak pièces / barriques (60% new, old barrels sourced from Romanée-Conti, Armand Rousseau and Emmanuel Rouget). 13% alcohol. Bottle #88 out of 2800 total bottles.
Youthful, luminous and moderately dark cherry-red color. The nose feels clean and rather youthful with aromas of ripe raspberries and juicy cherries, some sweet strawberry jam tones, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light darker fruit nuances, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of earthy Pinosity. The wine feels silky and rather ripe yet still enjoyably dry and acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of dark forest fruits, some earthy and gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light saline nuances, crunchy hints of tart red plums and sour cherry bitterness and a touch of toasty oak spice that lends a tiny bit of breadth and sweetness to the overall feel. The wine is high in acidity with moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, earthy and spicy with flavors of dark forest fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of savory wood spice, light saline nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of spicy Pinosity.
An impressively structured, nuanced and savory Pinot Noir with a good deal of ripeness, yet not one bit softness and sweetness. The wine is maybe still a bit on the woody side, but the overall feel is pretty Burgundian and I have a hunch that the wine is evolving in the right direction. I wouldn't say that the wine is really worth the 69€, nor will it be with even further aging, but based on the rather youthful overall feel, it is going to get better with additional aging. Fine stuff with lots of upside. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(92 points) - 2015 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in oak pièces / barriques. 12,5% alcohol.
Rather translucent and subtly hazy raspberry-red color with a thin, colorless rim. An attractive, classically styled and even somewhat Burgundian nose with aromas of ripe raspberries, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light meaty tones, a hint of toasty spice and a touch of ripe cherries. The wine feels clean, dry and youthful on the palate with intense flavors of brambly black raspberries, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of savory umami, light floral notes of violets, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The wine is wonderfully high in acidity with somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with some tannic grip and an intense aftertaste of brambly black raspberries and fresh red cherries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of peppery and smoky, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of woody oak and a touch of floral lift.
To my understanding the 2015 was the first vintage in which Daniel Twardowski started to vinify Ardoise in a different, somewhat less stern and extracted style - and it shows! The wine even looks a bit more red-toned and has a slightly naturalist feel to it with its subtly hazy appearance. I have no idea how high the amount of new oak is in this vintage, but at least the overall feel is brighter, less woody and more fruit-forward, which I really like. The wine comes across as somewhat playful and light on its feet, yet at the same time quite serious and eminently elegant. Maybe a tad pricey for the quality at 75€, but a lovely wine all the same. Seeing how the wine comes across as pretty youthful, I believe the wine will continue to age and improve just fine at least over a handful of years more - there is no hurry whatsoever with this vintage.
(93 points) - 2016 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. 30% whole cluster. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in mainly used oak pièces / barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12,2% alcohol. Total production 3500 bottles.
Rather dark, somewhat translucent and subtly hazy cherry-red color with a thin, colorless rim. The nose feels open, sweet and quite perfumed with aromas of ripe black cherries, some sweet oak spice, a little bit of juicy raspberry, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of cinnamon and a faint touch of roasted meat. The wine feels quite ripe and silky yet still pretty sinewy with a medium-to-moderately full body and vibrant flavors of ripe black raspberries, some sweet cherry tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light strawberry tones, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of woody oak spice. The overall feel is quite linear with ripe medium tannins and moderately high acidity. The finish is ripe yet dry and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of juicy black raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of woody spice, light stony mineral notes, a hint of gamey meat and a touch of sweet cherries.
This was very similar to the 2015 vintage we tasted at the same time, but even if 2015 was supposed to be a warm vintage, it felt slightly less ripe and more structured, whereas this 2016 came across as a bit softer and sweeter in comparison. A tiny bit lower in alcohol, too. As a whole, both the wines were pretty lovely and - as said before - very similar to each other, but I preferred the slightly drier and more structure-driven style of the 2015 vintage a bit more. Although a lovely wine in its own right, I really don't think this wine manages to deliver for the price at 51€.
(92 points) - 2017 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. 30% whole cluster. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in mainly used oak pièces / barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Surprisingly pale and very translucent raspberry red color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels sweetish and a bit restrained with delicate, fragrant aromas of wild strawberries and raspberry jellies, some wizened red fruits, light perfumed carbonic tones, a little bit of red licorice, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of meaty funk. The wine feels dry, lively and surprisingly delicate on the palate with a light-to-medium body and nuanced flavors of ripe cranberries, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light crunchy notes of tart red plums, a brambly hint of raspberry and a savory touch of almost tomato-like umami. The wine is high in acidity with medium tannins that both contribute to the firm structure of the wine. The finish is dry, long and a bit restrained with a savory aftertaste of raspberries and saline minerality, some savory notes of tomato umami, a little bit of tart cranberry, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of fresh red plums and a floral touch of sweet carbonic character.
I was surprised by the stylistic shift in the Twardowski wines: the vintages of Ardoise from 2011 to 2014 have seemed to be quite stern, brooding and extracted; the style seemed to shift to a somewhat lighter yet still pretty firm and a bit oaky style of the 2015 and 2016; and now this 2017 is once again wildly different from the preceding vintages! Before this vintage, Ardoise has always been quite dark and muscular effort for a Spätburgunder, but this vintage was super delicate in style, pale in color and light in body. The aromas were beautifully fragrant and nuanced, but both the aromas and flavors were lacking a bit the intensity I was expecting from this wine. While not always successful, Ardoise has always felt like a German take on a serious 1er Cru Burgundy, whereas this vintage seemed more like a lovely village-level Volnay. An attractive and eminently wine for sure - and one that still has many more miles to go - but not really something one would expect from a wine at this price point. Not particularly good value at 67,50€.
(90 points) - 2018 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. 30% whole cluster. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in mainly used oak pièces / barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Rather deep, dark and slightly hazy black cherry color that is surprisingly opaque - this is easily the deepest and darkest-colored Ardoise made thus far. The nose feels fragrant, sunny and quite dark-toned with sweetish aromas of kirsch and ripe strawberries, some dark plummy tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light juicy notes of sweet black raspberries, a hint of boysenberry jam and a touch of licorice root. The wine feels ripe, big and sunny on the palate with a full body and sweet, dark-toned flavors of black cherries, some plummy tones, a little bit of kirsch and boysenberry jam, light peppery and earthy notes of spicy Pinosity, a solar hint of dried dark fruits and a touch of licorice root. The overall feel is somewhat soft and round - the medium-plus acidity feels the lowest I've tasted in any Ardoise and the supple medium tannins mainly contribute to the rich texture of the wine, not to the structure. The finish is ripe, dark-toned and sweetly-fruited with a juicy, moderately long aftertaste of dark plums and black cherries, some boysenberry tones, a little bit of soft strawberry, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of earthy spice and a candied touch of carbonic character.
After tasting the surprisingly light and delicate 2017 vintage, this 2018 we had after it felt like a huge, sweet wine - really like its polar opposite. However, when I tasted the wine again, this time comparing it to the other vintages, it still remained a very big and also rather soft wine. Not even the first vintages of Ardoise - known to be burlier and more extracted wines - had similar sense of weight and body, and all the other vintages seemed to have more acidity than this one. While aromatically quite attractive, even if a tad too sweet, the wine felt otherwise rather clumsy in comparison to the other vintages. It also didn't really benefit from the drinking temperature getting up - as the wine warmed up in the glass, it only turned softer and sweeter. While a nice, rich and sunny Pinot Noir in its own right, this was a bit too heavy for me and not at the level of other Ardoise vintages. Hopefully the wine will develop some additional complexity as it ages, although I doubt any amount of aging can help with the softness and sense of weight. Feels heavily overpriced for the quality at 75€.
(88 points) - 2019 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Dhroner Hofberg planted to Burgundy clone Pinot Noir in 2006. 35% whole cluster. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in mainly used oak pièces / barriques (25% new oak). Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Luminous, youthful and slightly translucent raspberry-red color. The nose feels youthful but also somewhat pungent, smoky and gaseous - perhaps some SO2? The nose feels characterful but also a bit reticent with aromas of ripe raspberries, some fresh red cherries, a little bit of peppery spice, light floral notes of violets, a sauvage hint of funk and a touch of forest floor. The wine feels ripe, clean and juicy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant yet slightly restrained flavors of sweet black raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of smoke, light umami notes of tomato paste, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of crunchy redcurrant. The tannins feel very soft and supple, so the structure relies almost entirely on the rather high acidity. The finish is juicy, ripe and supple with a long yet light aftertaste of wild strawberries and black raspberries, some meaty notes of umami, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light smoky nuances, a hint of salinity and a touch of tart lingonberry.
An attractive, promising and somewhat nervy vintage of Ardoise that is still somewhat closed and a bit odd - maybe with a heftier dose of SO2? The wine might also be suffering from reduction, but the overall feel didn't feel as much reductive as it did gaseous and pungent. Who knows. Nevertheless, the style here was quite similar to the light, delicate and quite high-strung 2017 vintage, only showing a bit more body and substance in comparison - and this is only a good thing, because in my books the 2017 vintage went maybe a bit overboard with the super-light style. However, it is noticeable how very different the style of Ardoise is here compared to the more stern, extracted and heavily oaked first vintages. This most likely will turn out to be a delightful Pinot Noir with some age, but most likely it will take some years more - at the moment the wine is still a bit too youthful and nervous for its own good. And as it is always the case with these Ardoise wines, I doubt this wine will ever be worth the price at 69€, no matter how long it is aged.
(91 points)
Part 3: Pinot Noix Réserve Hofberg
- 2018 Daniel Twardowski Hofberg Pinot Noix Réserve - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
The debut vintage of this label. To my understanding, the wine made exclusively with fruit sourced from two parcels in Dhroner Hofberg that have been grafted with Burgundy Pinot Noir clones to very old (40 to 70 yo) Riesling vines. A part of the fruit was fermented in whole clusters. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in a combination of new and once used oak barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, deep and dark - almost opaque - garnet color. The nose feels sweet, dark-toned and rather ripe yet somewhat savory aromas of strawberries, some kirsch, a little bit of plum jam, light black cherry tones, a hint of red licorice and a touch of earth. The wine feels juicy, concentrated and dark-toned on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe cranberries, some sweet black cherries, a little bit of salinity, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of red licorice. Unlike the rather soft Ardoise 2018, this Reserve comes across as balanced and quite structured with its high acidity and ample yet ripe and more textural than tough and grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, dark-toned and somewhat grippy with a long, intense aftertaste of black raspberries, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of red licorice, light earthy notes, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of sweet black cherry.
Just like 2018 Ardoise, also this 2018 Reserve was a surprisingly ripe and dark-toned wine in the Twardowski lineup. However, unlike Ardoise, this Reserve version didn't seem to suffer nearly as badly from that ripeness! Sure, the wine is more dark-toned than red-toned and there is some definite sense of concentration you wouldn't get in a cooler vintage, but the wine packs also impressive sense of structure and although the wine packs more flavor intensity, the body doesn't seem as big and weighty as in Ardoise! Although I found the lighter and livelier 2019 Reserve better than this bigger, darker-toned effort, this was still a very impressive effort all the same. Seeing how the wine is still very youthful with very little if any aged qualities, I can see this aging wonderfully for years more. However, at 125€ the price really doesn't make sense. You can get at least as good German Pinot Noirs for just a fraction of the price.
(92 points) - 2019 Daniel Twardowski Hofberg Pinot Noix Réserve - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
The sophomore vintage of this label. To my understanding, the wine made exclusively with fruit sourced from two parcels in Dhroner Hofberg that have been grafted with Burgundy Pinot Noir clones to very old (40 to 70 yo) Riesling vines. A part of the fruit was fermented in whole clusters. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for two weeks and aged for 18 months in a combination of new and once used oak barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 12% alcohol.
Very youthful, luminous and quite translucent ruby-red color. Just like Ardoise 2019, the nose feels smoky, pungent and gaseous, but with more intense aromas of brambly raspberries and ripe cranberries, some popcorn tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light crunchy notes of redcurrants, a hint of spicy Pinosity, a touch of fresh Bing cherry and a whiff of savory wood. The wine feels lively, dry and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and intense, focused flavors of ripe cranberries and wild strawberries, some pungent smoky tones, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light saline mineral notes, a hint of juicy raspberry and a touch of red plums. The overall feel is quite sinewy and structured, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is lively, fresh and focused with some tannic grip and a long aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and sour cherries, some saline notes, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light brambly raspberry tones, a hint of gaseous, smoky character and a touch of savory wood spice.
A very similar wine to the 2019 Ardoise - down to that odd, smoky and gaseous character that might be reduction, but feels more like SO2 than reduction - but showing more focus and intensity already now. The wine is still super young and very nervous, so it's a bit hard to get a full picture at the moment, but still the wine comes across as very impressive and promising already now. Feels definitely more Burgundian than a Spätburgunder - however, at 145€, the wine is also priced as such. As 2019 Ardoise felt already overpriced at half the price, I must say the price doesn't make any sense to me. This is a great Pinot Noir with lots of upside, but I'd be never willing to pay such a price myself.
(93 points)
Part 4: Dhroner Hofberg Riesling
- 2017 Daniel Twardowski Dhroner Hofberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
11,5% alcohol. Total production 268 bottles.
Pale, limpid whitish-green color. The nose feels very expressive and varietally correct with attractive, fragrant aromas of lemon zest and ripe Golden Delicious apple, some beeswax, a little bit of juicy nectarine, light mineral notes of wet rocks and a hint of diesel. The wine feels lively, crisp and youthful on the palate with a light body and off-dry flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some crunchy Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light nuances of apple peel bitterness, a hint of ripe nectarine and a touch of salinity. The high acidity lends great sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is vibrant, quite long and palate-cleansing with a semi-dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some juicy yellow apple, a little bit of stony minerality, light grapey nuances, a hint of ripe nectarine and a touch of petrol.
A wonderfully balanced, clean and tasty Riesling. Of the three vintages we tasted (2017, 2018 and 2019), this was my favorite. Great harmony between the fruit, the minerality, the sweetness and the acidity. The overall feel was still very youthful, but I have no idea whether this wine will actually evolve and improve or just keep - whatever the case, there is no hurry with this wine. This will keep just fine for many more years. Excellent value at 16€.
(92 points) - 2018 Daniel Twardowski Dhroner Hofberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
11,5% alcohol. Total production 312 bottles.
Pale, quite neutral yellow-green color. The nose feels fresh and crisp with aromas of fresh white fruits, some beeswax, light crunchy notes of red apples, a hint of sweet grapey fruit and a touch of petrol. The wine feels youthful and quite firm yet also rather broad and somewhat mellow on the palate with a rather full body and off-dry flavors of crunchy Golden Delicious apple, some apple peel bitterness, light honeyed tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, a hint of ripe waxy character and a touch of sweet grapey fruit. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine easily in balance, but the mouthfeel is still slightly on the oily side. The finish is lively, fresh and quite acid-driven with a long, off-dry aftertaste of sweet grapey fruit and ripe Golden Delicious apple, some honeyed tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light beeswaxy tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of crunchy white fruit.
A rich yet fresh and balanced Riesling. Shows a lot more ripeness than the 2017 and 2019 vintages that we tasted at the same time: the overall feel is much bigger and fuller with a more waxy overall feel. While the wine shows good sense of balance and structure, it still lacked the zippy freshness and precision I loved in the other two vintages. This is a fine and thoroughly enjoyable Riesling, but not at the level of the two surrounding vintages. Most likely the wine will at least keep, if not evolve, for a good number of years more. Solid value at 16€.
(90 points) - 2019 Daniel Twardowski Dhroner Hofberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
12% alcohol. Total production 150 bottles.
Pale, clear whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful, even slightly pungent with an acrid note of SO2, followed by aromas of ripe lemon, some sweet grapey tones, a little bit of chopped aromatic green herbs, light honeydew melon notes, a hint of Granny Smith apple and a touch of smoke. The wine feels youthful, firm and somewhat high-strung on the palate with a medium body and rather ripe, off-dry flavors of sweet grapey fruit and Fuji apple, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of pungent SO2, light lemony notes, a hint of honeydew melon and a touch of smoky reduction. The quite high acidity makes the wine feel quite incisive, offsetting the medium-dry-ish sweetness nicely, yet keeping the overall feel balanced and accessible. The finish is long, juicy and medium-dry with a youthful, somewhat high-strung aftertaste of lemony citrus fruit, some sweet Fuji apple tones, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, light notes of cantaloupe, a hint of tangy salinity and a primary touch of grapey fruit.
A nice, tasty and still super youthful Mosel Riesling. Perhaps still a bit too tightly-wound, it feels this wine could use some more age to open up. Not as quite as lovely as the 2017 vintage, but not far behind. Great value at 16€.
(91 points)
Part 5: The madness begins here
- 2020 Schlumberger-Bernhart Gutedel Natur Pur - Germany, Baden (18.11.2023)
To my understanding, this is a skin-contact Chasselas made in a non-interventionist fashion. Aged for 11 months in old oak barrels. 11% alcohol.
Rather cloudy and quite murky yellow-green color with a faint peachy orange core. The nose feels wild, waxy and somewhat leesy with aromas of mushy ripe yellow apple, some peachy tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light lifted notes of VA, a sweet, fruity hint of baby food and a touch of cantaloupe. The wine feels dry, firm and - at first - subtly fizzy on the palate with a medium body and rather sauvage flavors of ripe peach, waxy funk along with some bretty overtones, a little bit of apricot jam, light stony mineral tones, a hint of honeysuckle and a touch of crunchy golden currants. The rather high acidity keeps the wine quite effortlessly in balance. The finish is wild, relatively acid-driven and slightly leesy with a rather long aftertaste of fresh golden apples, some crunchy golden currants, a little bit of waxy funk, light sweet nuances of apricot jam, a hint of honeysuckle and a touch of leesy creaminess.
A rather wild but still surprisingly balanced and attractive orange wine. Some people dubbed the wine "natty swamp juice" just by its looks alone, but even if the wine is obviously made in a very hands-off fashion, it is still surprisingly enjoyable and attractive an effort. It's hard to see whether the wine is capable of aging anywhere from here, but it is a nice wine right now - and surprisingly high in acidity for a Chasselas!
(89 points) - 2019 Seckinger Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling trocken - Germany, Pfalz (18.11.2023)
A naturalist Riesling, fermented spontaneously and aged for about 9 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, slightly hazy yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat wild with aromas of waxy funk, some sweet Golden Delicious apple, a little bit of peachy fruit, light earthy tones, a lifted hint of VA and a phenolic touch of brett. The wine feels ripe, rather wild and somewhat unfocused on the palate with a medium body and sauvage flavors of indistinct yellow fruits and sweet appley tones, some saline mineral notes, light lifted nuances of VA, a little bit of earth, a hint of beeswax and a barnyardy touch of bretty funk. The wine is quite high in acidity, which lends it good sense of structure, but doesn't really help with the lack of freshness. The finish is wild, funky and quite all over the place with a rather long aftertaste of Golden Delicious apple, some beeswax, light funky leathery tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of mushy peach and a bretty touch of barnyard.
Ugh. Too wild and funky - you really don't get much sense of Riesling from this wine. I like brett and usually funky wines are in my wheelhouse, but this feels like a generic naturalist white wine, not a serious Riesling from a well-regarded vineyard. I doubt any amount of aging is going to help the wine get any better. Not my cuppa.
(82 points) - 1988 Château Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (18.11.2023)
A blend composed of relatively early-harvested Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère. The exact blend isn't really known, but estimated to be one third of Merlot, one third of Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and the remainder rounded out by the remaining varieties. Fermented slowly in large cement tanks with no extraction. Aged for 6 months in old, neutral barriques, then returned to the cement tanks and bottled after several years of aging. 12% alcohol.
Deep, rather opaque plummy color with a moderately evolved maroon hue. The bouquet feels fragrant and characterful with attractive aromas of old leather, some wizened blackcurrants, light green minty nuances, a little bit of forest floor, savory hints of tobacco and licorice root, a touch of gamey meat and a pruney whiff of dried dark fruits. The wine feels dry, evolved and silky yet wonderfully firm with a medium body and savory flavors of wizened blackcurrants, some tobacco and earth, a little bit of licorice root, light green minty notes, a hint of meaty umami and an autumnal touch of leafy forest floor. The wine is still impressively structured with its high acidity and firm, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is dry, savory and quite grippy with a long, complex aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants, some tart red plums, a little bit of meaty umami, light minty green tones, a hint of forest floor and a touch of old leather.
A fantastic vintage of BAMA at its peak. The wine has evolved into a harmonious, complex and beautifully savory phase where the tertiary flavors dominate, yet the wine doesn't come across as one bit tired or too old. The wine is all about those classic proper Claret flavors overlaid on a still surprisingly firm and tightly-knit structure. Most likely the wine will stay on its plateau of maturity for a good handful of years more, but I doubt the wine will improve with any additional aging. Drink or keep.
(96 points) - 2013 Weingut Pfeffingen Spätburgunder SP - Germany, Pfalz (18.11.2023)
100% Pinot Noir. Macerated with the skins for two weeks. Aged for 18 months in French and Austrian barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Translucent, somewhat evolved dried-blood red color with a pale red rim. The nose feels fragrant with attractive aromas of ripe raspberries, some sweet strawberry tones, a little bit of red licorice, light brooding notes of sweet dark-toned spices, a hint of raspberry jelly and a touch of toasty oak spice. The wine feels rather ripe and somewhat sweetly-fruited yet wonderfully airy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of sweet raspberries and dark forest fruits, some plummy tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light notes of licorice, a hint of peppery spice and an evolved touch of gamey meat. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the supple and gentle medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe, rather fruit-forward and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe raspberries and spicy Pinosity, some licorice tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light peppery and smoky Spätburgunder tones, a hint of ripe dark berries and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A nice, harmonious and sophisticated Spätburgunder that is in a wonderful phase right now. The wine shows some evolved savory and earthy tones, but still retains enough youthful fruit to come across as vibrant and enjoyably focused in overall feel. There is definitely some toasty oak action here, but it remains pretty much out of the way, so it doesn't really distract at any point. A tasty, well-crafted effort. Great value at 20€.
(91 points) - 2017 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (18.11.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut, one third of each. The vintage 2017 in Beqaa started with a good deal of rain and snow, followed by a slightly cool April, delaying the opening of the buds. The temperatures soared in late July and this heat continued until mid-August, reducing yields and prompting for an early harvest. Cabernet was harvested first, starting on 22nd August, followed by Carignan and Cinsaut that were harvested in early September. The wine was fermented spontaneously, all varieties separately in concrete tanks. The fermented varietal wines were aged in oak barrels for a year, blended in early 2020, then left to marry for a few months and bottled unfined and unfiltered in the summer of 2020. 14% alcohol, 4 g/l residual sugar and 6,7 g/l acidity.
Deep, luminous blackish-red color with a ruby-red core and a dark brick-red rim. The nose feels youthful, sweet-toned and quite expressive with aromas of ripe cherries, some dark plummy tones, a little bit of sun-baked earth, light licorice tones, a hint of juicy strawberry, a lifted touch of nail polish VA and a reductive whiff of air balloon rubber. No noticeably brett funk this time. The wine feels ripe yet dry-to-dry-ish on the palate with vibrant flavors of sweet black cherries, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of licorice, light notes of sun-baked earth, a hint of loose tobacco and a balsamic touch of sweet VA. The overall feel is quite structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity that offsets nicely any sweeter nuances, and the surprisingly assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is savory, dry and grippy with a long aftertaste of crunchy red plums, some ripe red cherry tones, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, light notes of tobacco, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of alcohol warmth.
Despite being a big fan of Musar, the freshly released Musars rarely move me much - I think the wines are still somewhat nebulous upon release and start to take form only some years afterwards. However, what surprised me was how many others in the tasting viewed the wine: they thought the wine was attractive, but also very soft and approachable. Although I found the wine pretty attractive too, it was definitely not soft or particularly approachable! There seemed to be a tiny bit of residual sugar sweetness, but unlike in, say, 2012 vintage (which feels more Porty or Ripasso-like to me), the residual sugar didn't bother me at all here, thanks to the impressive structure here. If anything, the wine felt more structured than many other recent Musar vintage upon release! Although a tad on the ripe side with the sunny, slightly wizened fruit flavors, the wine otherwise seems to promise good things about its aging potential. I hope this wine makes fine old bones, as the starting point seems pretty terrific already now. Still worth the price at 51,95€.
(92 points) - 2015 Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga Speziale - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga (18.11.2023)
100% Pelaverga Piccolo from six vineyards in Verduno: Boscatto, Campasso, Galleria, Neirane, Riva Rocca and Sotto Orti. Average vineyard age 20 years. Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 5-6 months in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Bottled in the spring following the harvest. 14% alcohol.
Pale, evolved and fully translucent brick-red color with a tertiary mahogany hue. The nose feels old, dry and somewhat oxidative with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some beef jerky, light soy sauce tones, a little bit of licorice root, a hint of dried strawberries and a touch of pink peppercorns. The wine feels quite ripe and concentrated on the palate, yet relatively light-bodied at the same time. The overall feel is quite tired with flavors of pruney and raisiny dark fruit, some beef jerky, light soy sauce tones, a little bit licorice root, a hint of tobacco and a touch of dried strawberry. The wine is quite high in acidity with surprisingly ample and grippy tannins for a Pelaverga. The finish is tired, somewhat warm and rather grippy with a long, oxidative aftertaste of raisiny fruit, some spirituous notes of alcohol, a little bit of beef jerky, light dried strawberry notes, a hint of soy sauce and an earthy touch of licorice root.
I was surprised how tired and oxidative this wine had turned. I know Pelaverga isn't really a grape variety built to age, but I didn't expect the wine to be so badly in pieces after eight years. I guess a hot vintage like 2015 didn't really help? This was 14,52€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) - 2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett #12 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
This is AP12, so I believe this is the wine made from Kugel Peter, parcel with some old vines next to the famous Gisela parcel. 8,5% alcohol.
Pale, neutral, almost colorless whitish-green appearance. The nose feels clean and attractive but also slightly reticent with understated aromas of white peaches and ripe citrus fruits, some beeswax, light apple jam tones, a little bit of fragrant florals and a mineral hint of wet rocks. The wine feels firm, quite weightless and dry-ish on the palate with a light-to-medium body and intense flavors of freshly pressed apple juice and steely minerality, some ripe lemony notes, a little bit of apple jam, light floral notes of apple blossom, a hint of salinity and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The brisk acidity lends great sense of freshness, structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is clean, long and firm with an off-dry, palate-cleansing aftertaste of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light bitter nuances of apple peel, a spicy hint of white pepper and a floral touch of apple blossom.
A wonderfully attractive, brisk and nuanced Riesling made in a very ethereal, weightless and beautifully palate-cleansing style. Although the wine lacks the exuberant fragrance and expressive fruit intensity the Falkenstein wines exhibit in their very first years, the wine is still very vibrant in youthful in style. The nose might not be that expressive, but the wine isn't lacking one bit intensity on the palate. An absolute joy that drinks beautifully now but will most likely keep - probably also improve - for many years more. Highly recommended.
(92 points) - 2008 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Nahe (18.11.2023)
Fermented with natural yeasts in old 1000-2000 liter oak casks. After fermentation, moved into stainless steel tanks to age on the lees. Bottled lightly filtered. 8,5% alcohol.
Intense, concentrated neon yellow-green color. The fragrant nose feels sweetish and somewhat evolved with aromas of honey and lemon marmalade, some evolved creamy tones, light notes of ginger, a little bit of dried pineapple, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of Granny Smith apple. The wine feels firm, sinewy and off-dry on the palate with a light-to-medium body and vibrant flavors of lemon marmalade and honeycomb, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of candied ginger, light evolved creamy nuances, sharp hints of key lime and bitter cider apples and a touch of tangy salinity. The brisk, focused acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, fresh and lively with a palate-cleansing aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some candied ginger tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light evolved nuances of cooked cream, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of dried pineapple.
An attractive, harmonious and beautifully evolved Kabinett Riesling that is in a wonderful spot right now. Most likely the wine will keep for many years more and I wouldn't be surprised if the wine continued to improve with additional aging, but seeing how outstanding the wine is at the moment, there is definitely no need whatsoever to age the wine any longer. This is a real banger right now. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2006 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
8,5% alcohol.
Deep, somewhat evolved neon golden-yellow color with faint lime-green highlights and a little bit of very fine, silty wine crystal deposit. The nose feels sweet, nuanced and attractive with complex aromas of beeswax, some dried pineapple, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of acacia honey, a hint of wizened nectarine and a touch of saffron and other exotic spices. The wine feels sweet, textural and slightly oily on the palate with a moderately full body and rich flavors of honey and pineapple juice, some dried apricot tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light grapey tones, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of candied ginger. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance and nice structure to the wine. The finish is rich, nuanced and very persistent with an intense, medium-sweet aftertaste of honeyed richness and candied ginger, some dried apricot tones, a little bit of pineapple juice, light stony mineral notes and a hint of beeswax.
An absolutely fantastic Riesling Spätlese brimming with moderately evolved yet not particularly old fruit flavors and wonderful developed complexity. Although not a brisk, incisive Riesling, the wine doesn't come across as heavy or soft despite its quite pronounced sweetness - the cool mineral core and acidity of the wine are perfectly in balance with the residual sugar and the rather concentrated fruit. The wine is in an excellent phase right now, but it might continue to evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more. Drink or keep. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2013 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (18.11.2023)
7% alcohol.
Quite deep and somewhat concentrated golden yellow color with a youthful lime-green hue and a tiniest bit of hazy deposit. The nose feels clean and ripe but also a bit reticent with light yet attractive aromas of lemon marmalade, some greengage, light sweet grapey tones, a little bit of apple jam, a steely hint of minerality and a touch of kiwifruit. The wine feels noticeably sweet, concentrated and racy with a medium body and ridiculously intense flavors of lemon marmalade, some greengage, light sweet grapey notes, a little bit of apple jam, a hint of dried pineapple and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The bracing acidity lends tremendous sense of freshness and structure to the wine, but the mouthfeel remains a tiny bit sticky nonetheless. The finish is sweet, slightly sticky and very long with a noticeably intense aftertaste of lemon marmalade, some dried pineapple, a little bit of apple jam, light stony minerality, a hint of grapey fruit and a touch of floral spice.
A superb, eminently tasty Auslese that is still surprisingly youthful at the age of 10 years, showing no real signs of development yet. Drinking really well now, but I can imagine this will be even more impressive when the wine starts to develop some tertiary complexity - but seeing how the wine is evolving at a glacial pace, I have no idea how long that will take! Superb stuff with tons of upside, highly recommended.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker