About a year ago a bunch of my wino friends had a trip to Barolo and Barbaresco. I was told that while visiting the producers, one thing that started to really catch their attention during the trip was the apparent high quality of 2021 Nebbiolos. By the end of their trip they decided that a large 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo tasting is in order, so they collected all the interesting 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos (and a few Nebbiolo d’Albas) they could get their hands on and opened them in a large, 18-wine tasting of 2021 Nebbiolo.
So, in celebration of Otto Forsberg Appreciation Day (
), here’s my report on that Nebbiolo tasting!
As a foreword: I’ve never been a big fan of Langhe Nebbiolo in general. I’m a huge Nebbiolo freak and love (mostly traditionally made) Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Alto Piemonte, Carema, Valtellina… but often the Langhe Nebbiolos fail to scratch the Nebbiolo itch. I think the problem is how many producers make their Langhe Nebbiolos with inferior-quality fruit that doesn’t go into their Barolos or Barbarescos, but still has to be used somewhere, resulting in wines that lack the depth, the intensity and/or the structure I love in a Nebbiolo. Of course there are some notable exceptions, but in general the style of Langhe Nebbiolo isn’t really my cup of tea - the wines have gotten just more and more expensive, so I’d rather save some money and buy, say, a Dolcetto or a Freisa that usually delivers same kind of pleasure at a lower price - or, conversely, more pleasure at the same price!
I’ve noticed that quite often producers bottle their lesser Nebbiolos as “Langhe Nebbiolo”, but if they have some high-quality vineyards outside the appellations of Barolo or Barbaresco, they’re always bottled under Nebbiolo d’Alba, not Langhe Nebbiolo (in cases in which the producer could bottle the wine under either appellation name). Although many consumers might think both these appellations represent just simple everyday Nebbiolos, the Nebbiolo d’Alba appellation seems to hold much more weight than the Langhe Nebbiolo appellation - at least with the producers, if nothing else. However, I’ve started to notice that the best Nebbiolo d’Alba wines can be vinified like a Barolo or Barbaresco would, and these wines can hold a candle to these more celebrated appellations - often at a noticeably more reasonable price! While such Langhe Nebbiolos exist as well, they are pretty scarce.
All in all, based on this tasting, the quality in 2021 is admittedly high. Even some Langhe Nebbiolos that have left a rather lukewarm impression in the past managed to move me a lot more this time. Considering how I’m not a big fan of Langhe Nebbiolos, my average score for the wines was surprisingly high in this tasting! There were some disappointments, too - even surprising ones - but fortunately also a handful of completely new names that left a very positive impression! I thought lots of wines were really good - many wines getting even higher scores than what I’d usually give to a young, solid Barolo or Barbaresco! While very few of these Nebbiolos would truly be able challenge some of the best Barolos and Barbarescos, many of these wines were nevertheless really terrific and immensely pleasurable wines in their own right. Even if not all the producers managed to succeed with their Langhe Nebbiolos in this vintage, the overall quality seems to be very high and promising; based on these wines, I have high expectations regarding Barolos and Barbarescos!
After the tasting the attendees awarded five points to whichever way they thought were worthy - split between 1-5 different wines, according to their discretion. Here’s the final tally (my scores in parentheses):
1 - Elio Sandri Langhe Nebbiolo, 12 pts. (91)
2 - Cavallotto Langhe Nebbiolo, 9 pts. (93)
2 - Giovanni Canonica Langhe Nebbiolo, 9 pts. (92)
3 - Ca di' Press Langhe Nebbiolo, 7 pts. (92)
4 - G. Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, 6 pts. (89)
5 - Rivetto Nebbiolo d'Alba Vigna Lirano, 4 pts. (91)
6 - Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo, 3 pts. (90)
6 - Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo, 3 pts. (89)
7 - Burlotto Langhe Nebbiolo, 2 pts. (91)
7 - M. Marengo Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore, 2 pts. (93)
8 - Bricco Carlina Langhe Nebbiolo Volubile, 1 pt. (93)
8 - Francesco Clerico Langhe Nebbiolo, 1 pt. (-)
8 - Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiòt, 1 pt. (91)
8 - LaLù Langhe Nebbiolo, 1 pt. (88)
9 - Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo, 0 pts. (87)
9 - Olek Bondonio Langhe Nebbiolo, 0 pts. (90)
9 - Paolo Giordano Langhe Nebbiolo, 0 pts. (-)
9 - Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo, 0 pts. (86)
We also opened a few extras: one superb Van Volxem and two Alves de Sousa Douros - that second Alves de Sousa bottle was opened after the first one turned out to be rather flat and oxidative!
- 2021 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco. Fermented and macerated with the skins for about two weeks. Aged for a year in old Slavonian oak botti. 14,5% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and fully translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels youthful and quite primary with lush aromas of strawberry candies, some ripe Bing cherries, a little bit of licorice, light fragrant notes of exotic spices and a vague hint of smoke or wood tar. The wine feels youthful, dry and quite sinewy on the palate with a medium body and pretty intense flavors of sour cherries, some cranberries, light licorice tones, a little bit of savory spices, a candied hint of sweet primary fruit and a touch of juicy dark fruit. The overall feel is pretty firm and structured with the high acidity and balanced, supple medium tannins. The high alcohol does show through a bit. The finish is rich, slightly warm and quite gently grippy with a juicy aftertaste of sour cherries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light candied primary fruit flavors and a hint of licorice.
A rather generic Nebbiolo still dominated by sweet, estery primary fruit flavors and somewhat noticeable alcohol heat. I like the firmness and bright acidity here, but the overall feel is pretty mundane. I'm pretty sure the wine will keep easily for years and it will also get better as the sweet, candied primary fruit flavors fade, but I'm not sure if this wine will become particularly memorable with any amount of aging. Priced more or less according to its quality at approx. 18€. The wine didn't get any points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared last place.
(87 points) - 2021 Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
The grapes are sourced from vineyards near Serralunga d'Alba, right outside the Barolo appellation. Typically the wine is 95-100% biodynamically farmed Nebbiolo with a tiny bit of Barbera in the blend. Fermented spontaneously, aged for a year in old 3000-liter Slavonian oak casks. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, translucent and still very youthful cherry-red color. The nose feels juicy, fragrant and youthful with aromas of black cherries and sweet strawberries, some dark plummy tones, a little bit of lifted ethery character, light spicy nuances, a wild hint of rustic funk and a touch of licorice root. The wine feels ripe and silky yet still wonderfully firm and sinewy on the palate with flavors of ripe sour cherries, some sweet black raspberry and wild strawberry notes, light licorice root tones, a little bit of leathery funk, a hint of gravelly minerality and a lifted touch of ethery VA. Good sense of firmness and structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is juicy, savory and gently grippy with a rather long aftertaste of black cherries and wild strawberries, some brambly black raspberry notes, a little bit of leathery funk, light licorice root tones, a hint of ripe sour cherry and a touch of earthy spices.
A sophisticated, characterful and quite tasty Nebbiolo with great fruit intensity and a nice undercurrent of rustic funk. The wine is perhaps a bit on the ripe and gentle side, but still very harmonious and firm enough to be a serious wine. Good now, might improve a little bit over a handful of years. However, this is just a baby version of Rivetto's 2021 Vigna Lirano Nebbiolo, which is the real deal - basically a wine to be drunk while Lirano and the Barolos age in the cellar. Pretty decent value at approx. 18€. The wine got 3 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared sixth place.
(89 points) - 2021 Rivetto Nebbiolo d'Alba Vigna Lirano - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (27.1.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Nebbiolo from Vigna Lirano, a vineyard on the hill between Serralunga d'Alba and Sinio, right outside the Barolo appellation. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for six months in terracotta amphorae. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale, beautifully luminous and very translucent brick-red color. The nose feels a bit restrained but also clean and wonderfully layered with fragrant aromas of ripe raspberries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of tobacco, light juicy notes of sweet red fruits, a floral hint of roses and a lifted touch of sweet VA. The wine feels ripe, dense and pretty tightly-knit on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and slightly reticent flavors of dark fruits, some juicy black cherries, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light wild strawberry tones, floral hints of roses and violets and a touch of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is pretty stern and structured, thanks to the quite high acidity and pretty assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is quite long and rather tannic with a savory aftertaste of ripe sour cherries, some brambly raspberry notes, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of floral lift.
A very nuanced, sophisticated and quite tightly-knit Nebbiolo d'Alba that feels more like a Barolo than a typical weekday Nebbiolo. The extended maceration period seems to have made noticeably lighter in color (compared to the somewhat darker-colored 2021 Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo we tasted at the same time) with a somewhat less expressive but also more nuanced and complex aroma and flavor profile. As the wine is still super young, I wouldn't be surprised we just caught the wine in a somewhat grumpy phase. Based on how the wine is still so youthful and tightly-wound, it is easy to promise volumes of aging potential for this wine. Most likely the wine needs another 4-7 years before it starts to really open and probably a decade or two before it arrives at its plateau of maturity. Fine stuff and well worth the price at approx. 30€. The wine was one of my favorites of the evening and it got 4 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on fifth place.
(91 points) - 2021 LaLù Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from younger vines in La Morra and Monforte d'Alba. Partly destemmed, partly vinified in whole clusters resulting in a little bit of carbonic maceration. Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel and concrete vats for 12 days. Aged in Austrian oak casks for 8 months. Lot number L.N9/2022. 14% alcohol.
Quite deep, rather translucent and moderately dark garnet color. The nose feels a bit restrained and quite brooding with aromas of fresh black cherries, some dark forest fruits, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light herby green tones, a hint of licorice and a mineral touch of stone dust. The wine feels clean, ripe and very youthful on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and rather fruit-forward flavors of juicy dark fruits, some sweet black cherries, a little bit of ferrous blood, light primary notes of strawberry jellies and raspberry marmalade, an extracted hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of licorice. The high alcohol lends some warmth to the palate and the structure relies more on the ample and rather assertive tannins than on the slightly soft medium-to-moderately high acidity. The finish is youthful, clean and somewhat grippy with a rather long and quite juicy aftertaste of dark plummy fruit and ripe black cherry, some strawberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light licorice tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of candied primary fruit. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a somewhat mouth-warming note.
A clean, vibrant and attractive Nebbiolo with lots of ripe fruit and a nice, sturdy tannic frame. However, the ripeness feels a tad high here: the overall fruit profile is slightly on the sweet side; the alcohol sticks out a bit distractingly at times; and the acidity could be a tad higher. While an enjoyable wine in its own right, I wasn't particularly thrilled about the overall style - I look for more freshness and less of that big, lush fruit in my Nebbiolos. However, I can imagine the wine will benefit from a few years of aging, in the hopes that it would lose those estery, slightly candied primary fruit flavors. Comes across as rather expensive for the quality at 35€. The wine got 1 point from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared eighth place.
(88 points) - 2021 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
Made from the lesser quality grapes that didn't go into the Barbaresco bottlings. Macerated for approximately three weeks with the skins. Aged for 6 months in large botti casks and 6 months in bottles before release. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, youthful and fully translucent garnet color. The nose feels open and expressive with very identifiable but also rather straightforward Nebbiolo aromatics of wild strawberries, some ripe red cherries, a little bit of raspberry juice and a herby hint of oregano. The wine feels clean, juicy and somewhat round on the palate with a medium body and quite intense but also rather linear flavors of ripe cranberries and sour cherries, some sweet strawberry notes, a little bit of fresh red plum and a hint of stony minerality. The wine is only medium in acidity and the somewhat grippy medium tannins don't really bring that much firmness to the structure, either. The finish is ripe, juicy and moderately grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of wild strawberries, some earthy spices, a little bit of sweet Bing cherry and hints of darker forest fruits.
Even though I'm a huge fan of Produttori del Barbaresco, I've never found this particular bottling particularly good, nor do I understand the love this wine gets. To me, it has always tasted very simple, linear and lacking in depth and structure. You can really taste that all the good stuff goes into the Barbaresco bottlings and this is made with the fruit that doesn't make the cut. I had high expectations of this vintage, because 2021 has been quite promising and there have been some really nice 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos around. However, this vintage turned out to be exactly similar to all the PdB LNs I've had before - simple and uninspiring. This is not a bad wine, just very plain and quite ho-hum - at this price I'd rather buy a good Dolcetto from a decent producer or pay a bit more for a more serious Langhe Nebbiolo from a better producer. At 17€ the wine isn't overpriced, but there are so much better options to be had at that price. The wine didn't get any points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared last place. While not the worst wine in the tasting, many people said this was their biggest disappointment when their expectations were factored in.
(86 points) - 2021 Olek Bondonio Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from young vines. Fermented spontaneously and macerated for a month on the skins in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Aged for 18 months in large oak botti. 14,5% alcohol.
Luminous and quite dark but also moderately translucent black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned, quite ripe and rather idiosyncratic with complex, slightly wild aromas of black cherries, some funky phenolic tones, a little bit of truffle, light ripe raspberry tones, a hint of nutmeg, a weird and atypical touch of oaky vanilla and toast and a funky green-toned whiff of pickle relish. The wine feels ripe, juicy and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some ripe cranberry and raspberry tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light lifted notes of VA, a touch of nutmeg and a faint whiff of sweet oaky spices. The overall feel is quite tightly-knit with the high acidity and rather assertive and pretty grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and quite grippy with an intense aftertaste of cranberries and wild strawberries, some leathery funk and phenolic spice, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light stony mineral notes, odd oaky hints of toasty character and pickle relish and a touch of nutmeg.
I enjoyed the stern, structure-driven overall style here, reminding me more of a traditionalist Barbaresco than a normal Langhe Nebbiolo; but the overall feel was also a bit weird and atypical. I've understood that Bondonio makes his wines in a very traditional style, eschewing the use of new oak and whatnot. However, several people thought that the wine showed a clear (but fortunately not particularly pronounced) streak of new oak - along with a weird, slightly green pickle relish character. Some weren't particularly bothered by these qualities, but others (me included) found these slightly distracting. Without these atypical flavors and aromas this might've been one of the best wines of the evening for me. However, with its odd aromatics, the wine didn't really make the cut and it didn't get any points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared last place. I hope that with additional aging it might at least lose those toasty aromatics and come a little bit better together. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 30,50€.
(90 points) - 2021 Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiòt - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from three young (average age 10 yo) vineyards in Verduno: Neirane, Pisapola and Sotto Orti. Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for a week. Aged for 6 to 8 months in 2000-4000-liter French and Slavonian oak botti, then blended together and aged for another 2 months in stainless steel tanks. 14% alcohol.
Luminous and quite translucent black cherry color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels youthful but also quite dry and classically styled with very Nebbiolo-ish aromas of black raspberries and licorice, some loose tobacco, a little bit of earth, light ripe cranberry tones, a hint of sour cherry and a candied touch of sweet primary fruit. The wine feels ripe and juicy but also enjoyably sinewy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of black cherries and dark plums, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of loose tobacco, light gravelly mineral tones, red-toned hints of juicy strawberries and brambly raspberries and a touch of earth. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the ample yet ripe and supple medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums, making the wine feel gradually more tannic and grippy. The finish is juicy, vibrant and moderately grippy with a long, dry aftertaste of sour cherries and crunchy cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sweet strawberry, light brambly raspberry notes, a hint of tobacco and a touch of licorice root.
A firm, promising and quite sinewy Nebbiolo that still feels a bit too youthful for its own good; there's still some sweet, estery primary fruit especially in the nose, but also a bit on the palate - something I'm not a big fan of. However, I have no doubts it will fade away with a few years of additional aging. The overall feel here is enjoyably stern and serious, but the wine still is very much a Langhe Nebbiolo - it lacks the oomph of a Barolo or Barbaresco. This wine is, however, much more serious and convincing than many other Langhe Nebbiolos, which come across as just fruity and simple - the emphasis here is not that much on the fruity qualities, but instead the interplay between the fruit, the savory non-fruit flavors and the firm, sinewy structure. This is a solid Langhe Nebbiolo and a good purchase at 20€. It got 1 point from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared eighth place.
(91 points) - 2021 Ca' di Press Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from the Perno subzone in Monforte d'Alba. The grapes are destemmed but not crushed. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 25 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged in stainless steel tanks for 8-9 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale, limpid and very translucent brick-red color. The nose is somewhat reticent and slightly wild with subtle but wonderfully nuanced and attractive aromas of ripe raspberries, some old leather, a little bit of juicy cranberry, light sweet notes of balsamic VA, hints of fresh dark berries and a touch of gravelly earth. The wine feels juicy, silky and slightly sunny on the palate with a medium body and subtly wild flavors of ripe cranberries, some wild strawberries and black raspberries, light lifted notes of balsamic VA, a little bit of leathery funk, a hint of stony minerality and a solar touch of marmaladey sweetness. The rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins make the wine feel balanced and structured without compromising its suave, silky mouthfeel. The finish is ripe, juicy and moderately grippy with a long, nuanced aftertaste of wild strawberries and fresh red cherries, some leathery funk, a little bit of sweet, ethery VA, light raspberry marmalade tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A somewhat sunny and a bit restrained but also wonderfully firm, harmonious and characterful Langhe Nebbiolo that is right on point for the variety. Although the wine isn't particularly expressive nor impressive, its fine-tuned elegance, varietally correct fruit flavors and impressive sense of structure really won me over. Although the wine feels somewhat sunny with its sweet-toned flavors, the bright acidity and firm tannic structure make the overall feel quite fresh, precise and enjoyably savory. The wine might be a bit lightweight for a Barolo or Barbaresco, but this modest Langhe Nebbiolo still drinks much better than many lesser Barolos and Barbarescos! This is pretty much open for business right now, but I can imagine the wine can not just evolve, but also improve over a handful of years, if left in a cellar. An excellent purchase at 21€. The wine was easily one of my favorites of the evening and it got 7 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on third place.
(92 points) - 2021 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
The fruit is sourced from old Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio, outside the Barolo region, but some lots from Vigna del Pozzo in Castiglone Falletto in the Barolo region are blended in. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged first for 8 months in stainless steel and then for a further year in large Slavonian oak casks. 14% alcohol.
Quite youthful and moderately translucent pomegranate color with a luminous cherry-red core. The nose feels sweet and rather dark-toned with quite solar aromas of juicy black cherries and ripe dark forest fruits, some bilberry tones, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light floral notes of violets and a perfumed hint of crushed rose petals. The wine feels ripe, juicy and very open but also surprisingly big and round on the palate with a full body and quite lush flavors of dark forest fruits, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light sweet notes of ripe bilberries and black cherries, a hint of tobacco and a touch of stony minerality. The structure relies more on the rather assertive and quite grippy tannins than on the somewhat mellow medium-plus acidity. The finish is ripe, juicy and quite tannic with a moderately long, dark-fruited aftertaste of black cherries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light bilberry tones, a hint of tobacco and a floral touch of roses. The high alcohol adds some warmth towards the end of the aftertaste.
A surprisingly big, rich and solar Langhe Nebbiolo that feels much more like a Barolo than a typical Langhe Nebbiolo - you can really taste that this is a proper Nebbiolo from outside the Barolo appellation, not a declassified Barolo made with lesser fruit, or fruit from too young vines. However, the wine is very ripe and sunny in nature; in our 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo tasting, this Cascina Fontana wine wasn't only one the biggest wines around, but also among the darkest-fruited wines aromatically. While most wines we tasted were much more red-fruited in nature, this was stylistically quite different, tasting maybe a bit less like what you'd expect from a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region. Not that there is anything wrong with that - my bigger problem was the overall elevated ripeness, resulting in a somewhat hot and soft feel due to the high alcohol and quite modest acidity. While the wine in impressive in its own right, I'd be happy with a slightly less impactful wine with more sense of freshness and precision. I've always thought this is one of the best Langhe Nebbiolos around, but interestingly I thought the vintages from 2017 and 2018 (two hot vintages) showed better sense of freshness and precision! At 25€ this wine is priced according to its quality. The wine got 3 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared sixth place.
(90 points) - 2021 Francesco Clerico Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, very translucent and youthful pale ruby color. The nose feels remarkably understated with really light and nondescript aromas of red fruits, some earthy notes and light floral tones. The wine feels silky, quite underwhelming and surprisingly sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and flavors of surprisingly pronounced sour cherry bitterness, some sweet red fruits, a little bit of sweet pipe tobacco and a hint of gravelly earth. The structure relies more noticeably on the pronounced and quite grippy tannins than on the rather soft medium acidity. The finish is juicy, textural and quite grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of red-toned fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco and a hint of sour cherry bitterness.
This was a remarkably understated and reticent Nebbiolo, offering very little of anything. We pondered whether the wine was so slightly corked that none of us picked any TCA aromas or flavors, but still corked enough to kill the fruit. However, we thought this was unlikely as the wine only seemed to open a tiny bit with air without developing any corked aromas over the evening. I might need to re-visit this wine at some point to confirm my view - but if this wine was representative of the vintage, this was really a disappointment. Not only was it very understated in fruit, but also pretty modest in acidity and - most of all - surprisingly sweet-toned. Even without any pronounced fruit flavors the wine came across as rather sweet in taste, making me think that there might be more than just a gram of two (per liter) of residual sugar here. I'm leaving the wine unrated, so I really can't give a proper assessment of the wine's QPR (the price of the bottle was approx. 25€), but even if I didn't really like the wine, it still got 1 point from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared eighth place. - 2021 Paolo Giordano Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from vineyards planted in 1990 and 2010 in the Perno sub-region of Monforte d'Alba. Fermented and macerated for three weeks on the skins in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks (50%) and old 1000-liter oak casks. 14,5% alcohol. Total production approximately 3000 bottles.
Pale, translucent brick-red color. The nose feels weirdly dull, understated and somewhat unpleasant with aromas of reductive air balloon rubber, some dusty attic tones, a little bit of cranberry, light juicy notes of ripe red plums and an odd hint of kelp. The wine feels ripe, round and sunny on the palate with a medium body and quite sweet-toned flavors of licorice and ripe red plums, some strawberry notes, a little bit of dusty attic, light stony mineral notes and a hint of cranberry sauce. The structure relies mostly on the ample and rather grippy tannins than on the modest, soft acidity. The finish is dull, short and grippy with a juicy but understated aftertaste of sweet red plums, some cranberry sauce, light earthy tones and a hint of tobacco.
At first people thought the wine might've been corked, but as it seemed to slowly open up and lose some of those dusty tones with air, we ultimately weren't sure. It remained pretty dull, understated and somewhat unpleasant throughout the evening, though. I really hope we had just a dud bottle (which is why I'm leaving the wine unrated) and this was not representative of the house style. Whatever the case was, this bottle wasn't worth the 25€. Unsurprisingly, the wine didn't get any points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared last place. - 2021 Elio Sandri Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from Vigna Disa in the sub-region Perno of Monforte d'Alba. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 10-12 days. Aged for 8 months in old Slovenian botti. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and surprisingly dark red color with a youthful purplish hue. The nose feels expressive, deep and dark-toned with intense aromas of sweet black cherries, some strawberries, a little bit of tobacco, light licorice root tones, a hint of sweet smoke and a balsamic touch of VA. The wine is noticeably ripe, juicy and impactful on the palate with a rich texture, quite full body and intense flavors of dark-toned fruits and black cherries, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of licorice, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of ripe blueberry. Although the wine feels big and sunny, it retains quite an impressive structure with its rather high acidity and ample, assertive tannins that pile up on the gums. The finish is rich, dark-toned and juicy with quite ample and grippy yet still rather well-behaved tannins and a long aftertaste of dark plums and black raspberries, some black cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light licorice tones, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of balsamic VA.
A big, bold and ripe Langhe Nebbiolo that would easily pass off as a younger Barolo from many lesser producers. Contrasting the overall fresh, playful and red-toned style of Nebbiolo that most of the wines in our 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo tasting exhibited, this wine is noticeably bigger, heftier and aromatically more darker-toned - somewhat similar to Cascina Fontana's ripe and burly 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo. However, where that Cascina Fontana LN came across as somewhat soft and excessively ripe, this Elio Sandri's version comes mostly across as big, balanced and quite dead-serious. It's also still very youthful in overall character, so I can imagine the wine will not only keep, but also evolve and improve for many more years. Although I would've liked the wine to be a bit lighter in body and alcohol with more red-toned aromatics, this was still an impressive wine in its own right - it was not only one of my favorites of the evening, but it was also a real crowd favorite: it got 12 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on first place. Solid value at 35€.
(91 points) - 2021 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Nebbiolo Langhe - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from the younger estate vineyards. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in tronconic French oak vats and open-top stainless steel tanks. Aged in large French oak botti for 9-10 months. 14% alcohol.
Translucent and luminous medium-deep brick-red color. The nose feels wonderfully nuanced and perfumed with fragrant aromas of wild strawberries and floral notes of rose petals and violets, some brambly raspberry notes, a little bit of licorice root, light cherry tones, a smoky hint of creosote, a touch of loose tobacco and a faint, sweetish and subtly buttery whiff of diacetyl. The wine is silky and juicy yet also wonderfully firm on the palate with a sleek medium body and bright yet moderately ripe flavors of dark forest fruits, some tobacco, a little bit of ripe redcurrant, light boysenberry tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of fresh red cherries. The combination of rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins make the wine feel pretty structured and sinewy. The finish is juicy, rather ripe and somewhat dark-toned with a quite long aftertaste of black cherries, some tobacco, a little bit of licorice root, light brambly raspberry notes, a hint of sweet boysenberry and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
Sometimes Burlotto's Langhe Nebbiolos have been a bit simple and boring - completely unlike their other similarly priced wines, like Dolcetto, Pelaverga or Freisa, and a mere shadow of their Barolos. However, this 2021 is a solid vintage with great sense of varietal typicity and a lovely structure. The wine does feel a little bit lightweight and simple, if contrasted to a typical Burlotto Barolo, but it is a very serious and classically styled Nebbiolo that held its ground quite effortlessly in our 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo tasting. Although Barolo this is not, this isn't a soft and easy everyday red, either - but something from between those two extremes. Priced according to its quality at 33€. The wine got 2 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared seventh place.
(91 points) - 2021 Bricco Carlina Langhe Nebbiolo Volubile - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% organically farmed Nebbiolo from estate vineyards in Grinzane Cavour. The destemmed grapes are first cold-soaked for 2 days, then fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for 7-8 days. Aged in stainless steel tanks (75%) and lightly-toasted 500-liter demi-muids for 5 months. 14% alcohol.
Luminous, dark-toned and deep yet quite translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels wonderfully fragrant and attractive with youthful aromas of cherry marmalade and perfumed floral character, some red licorice, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light wild strawberry notes, a hint of rubbery reduction and a touch of darker-toned fruit. The wine feels rich, juicy and quite fruit-driven yet still impressively stern and tightly-knit on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart lingonberries and sour cherry bitterness, some fresh wild strawberry notes, a little bit of ripe boysenberries and other dark berries, light candied notes of estery primary fruit, a hint of stony minerality and a floral touch of rosewater. The structure feels very firm - not quite unlike a Barolo or Barbaresco - with the rather high acidity and ample, grippy tannins. The finish is long, juicy and grippy with an intense, slightly more darker-toned aftertaste of ripe dark berries and sour cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of black raspberry, light stony mineral notes and a candied hint of sweet primary fruit.
A wonderfully vibrant and very classically styled Langhe Nebbiolo that could pass for a warmer-vintage Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo or a lighter Barolo or Barbaresco. Perhaps the style is a bit too youthful and primary for a Barolo or Barbaresco, as the wine spends so little time in oak, but structurally this could easily pass for the real deal. Aromatically the wine is wonderfully expressive and seductive with its fragrant nuances and flavor-wise the wine is just on point with those bright fruit notes that are so true to the variety. Although the wine is a bit primary and candied at the moment, it is nevertheless a very impressive effort - on par with many great wines from more acclaimed appellations. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve and improve for another decade as well. Although this wine was among my favorites of the evening, it got only 1 point from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared eighth place. At just 16€, this is a screaming bargain.
(92 points) - 2021 M. Marengo Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from a 0,8-hectare parcel planted in 1968 in the esteemed Vigna Valmaggiore cru in Roero. Fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 10 days. Aged for 8 months in barriques (10% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Quite translucent but also moderately dark brick-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels spicy, savory and somewhat dark-toned with aromas of fresh red cherries, some earthy spices, a little bit of tobacco, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of ripe black cherry, a touch of brambly raspberry and a faint yet distinctive whiff of pickle relish. The wine feels dry, tightly-knit and a bit lean on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart lingonberries and crunchy cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of earthy spice, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of tobacco and a faint touch of pickle relish. The wine is impressively structured and quite sinewy with its high acidity and ample and rather grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The finish is long, dry and quite tannic with a stern, tightly-knit aftertaste of crunchy cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light brambly notes of raspberries, a hint of tobacco and a ferrous touch of blood.
A wonderfully serious, intensely flavored and classically styled Nebbiolo that could easily pass off as a single-vineyard Barbaresco. If the wine truly sees barriques and not botti, I'm positively surprised how the wine doesn't really show any obvious oaky qualities - although I'm not sure if that faint pickle relish nuance might be from oak aging. Nevertheless, in a tasting of mainly 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, this lone Nebbiolo d'Alba from Roero was a whole different beast, feeling much more impressive and promising than any other wine in the tasting. Although the wine is all too young and tightly-wound at the moment, it is quite darn impressive effort for its price point all the same. Expect the wine to evolve and improve greatly over the next decade or two. Even if the wine was probably my favorite of the evening, it got only 2 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared seventh place.
(93 points) - 2021 Cavallotto Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from parcels in Bricco Boschis, Codana and Pernanno crus, all within the Barolo appellation. The grapes are fully destemmed, then fermented spontaneously and macerated with a submerged cap over 2½ to 4 weeks. Aged for 15-18 months in old Slavonian oak botti casks. 14,5% alcohol. Annual production ranges from 10000 to 25000 bottles.
Deep, luminous and moderately translucent ruby-red color with a youthful, faintly blueish hue. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and beautifully perfumed with sweetly-fruited aromas of black cherries and balsamic richness, some exotic spices, a little bit of smoky phenolic character and vaguely lambic-like funk, light wild strawberry tones, juicy hints of bilberries and boysenberries and a touch of crushed rose petals. The wine feels ripe, juicy and sweet-toned but also impressively stern and even quite tough on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of sour cherry bitterness and sweet blueberry-driven dark fruit, some floral nuances, light crunchy notes of crowberries, a little bit of phenolic funky and smoke, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of tart lingonberry. The wine feels very firm and structured with its high acidity and assertive, noticeably grippy tannins. The finish is long, tough and grippy with a ripe yet dry aftertaste of ripe blueberries and crunchy crowberries, some phenolic funk, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light tart lingonberry tones, a hint of fragrant floral spice and a touch of sweet black cherry.
When we tasted this wine in our 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo tasting, I had to double check that somebody hadn't included a bottle of Barolo or Barbaresco in the lineup! We had some softer and fruitier Langhe Nebbiolos and then some more serious, rather structure-driven Langhe Nebbiolos - and then we had this wine. This feels like a Barolo and I think it could actually be labeled as a Barolo if Cavallotto just released the bottle a little bit later (today a Barolo must be aged for at least three years, 18 of which in oak or chestnut casks). With its very unapologetic, take-no-prisoners structure, it is obvious that this wine isn't particularly approachable now - and probably won't be for a good handful of years! Nevertheless, this is a Langhe Nebbiolo from an excellent vintage, capable of not only holding a candle to many a Barolo and Barbaresco, but also outperform them. At 35-40€ this is definitely not an affordable Langhe Nebbiolo, but the wine easily delivers for the price. This was not only one of my absolute favorites of our tasting, but also a real crowd favorite as well: The wine got 9 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared second place.
(93 points) - 2021 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo dai Vigneti di Proprietà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Perno, Castiglione Falletto and on Santo Stefano hill in Monforte d'Alba. The grapes are fully destemmed, then fermented spontaneously and macerated with a submerged cap over 2 to 3 weeks. Aged in medium-sized Slavonian oak botti for 6-8 months. 14% alcohol.
Noticeably pale and fully translucent brick-orange color. The nose feels youthful, floral and wonderfully fragrant with expressive aromas of roses and wild strawberries, some fresh cranberries, light sweeter notes of raspberry jelly, a little bit of dry, smoky phenolic character, savory hints of tobacco and old leather, a touch of stony minerality and a whiff of rubbery reduction. The wine feels rich, juicy and surprisingly mellow on the palate with a rather full body and relatively sweetly-fruited flavors of strawberries and cherry marmalade, some raspberry jam, a little bit of rubbery reduction, light funky notes of old leather and a hint of stony minerality. The wine sports an open texture and a quite soft structure due to its medium acidity and ample yet very gentle, powdery tannins. The fruit-forward finish is rich, open and supple with a moderately long and very juicy aftertaste of wild strawberries, some cherry marmalade, light crunchy notes of fresh red plums, a little bit of brambly raspberry, a hint of old leather and a touch of stony minerality.
A tasty and accessible but also quite ripe, soft and sweet Langhe Nebbiolo that sports a wonderfully fragrant and seductive nose, but falls a little short on the palate. Although the wine is fermented to full dryness, the ripeness of the fruit suggests quite a bit of sweetness and richness on the palate; in our tasting this was among the softest and most sweetly-fruited Nebbiolos. While a nice and thoroughly enjoyable wine in its own right, the overall feel wasn't particularly impressive and the nose remained by far the best part of the wine. Due to its soft and supple structure, the wine didn't really feel like a serious food wine, nor did it promise good things about the aging potential. However, as the wine still sports a little bit of rubbery reduction, I'd wait for probably another year or two, just to let it blow off. This is a nice everyday red if you want a fragrant and very approachable Nebbiolo that drinks nicely in its youth. However, the wine does feel quite expensive for its quality at 52€. The wine got 6 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on fourth place.
(89 points) - 2021 Giovanni Canonica Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (27.1.2024)
100% Nebbiolo made with grapes sourced from Grinzane Cavour (typically approx. 80%) and the Paiagallo cru (approx. 20%) that didn't go into the Canonica Barolo. The grapes are fully destemmed and fermented spontaneously. Macerated with the skins for 30-40 days. Aged in concrete tanks and old Slavonian oak botti. 14,5% alcohol. Annual production approx. 2000 bottles.
Luminous, quite translucent and rather pale raspberry red color. The nose feels youthful, very ripe and rather sweetish with aromas of black cherries, some dark plums, a little bit of wild strawberry, light perfumed notes of roses, a mineral hint of wet rocks, a touch of raspberry marmalade and a lifted whiff of sweet VA. The wine feels ripe, concentrated and sweet-toned but also surprisingly delicate and airy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense, dark-toned flavors of black cherries and dark forest fruits, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of juicy strawberry, light floral notes of crushed rose petals, a hint of raspberry marmalade and a touch of balsamic VA. The acidity feels moderately high and the ample, ripe tannins are quite grippy but not too tough or aggressive. The finish is rich, concentrated and rather grippy with a long, intensely-flavored aftertaste of black cherries and sweet strawberries, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of licorice root, light raspberry marmalade tones, a hint of savory wood and a balsamic touch of sweet VA.
A concentrated, very ripe and somewhat sweet-toned Nebbiolo that feels more like a true Barolo than "just" a Langhe Nebbiolo. The overall feel is quite rich and dark-toned in style, but despite the elevated ripeness and ample tannins, the wine doesn't come across as tough, heavy or ponderous - it is instead surprisingly sophisticated for such a ripe wine! A thoroughly impressive effort, and while it maybe wasn't in my top favorite Nebbiolos in our tasting, it was still a thoroughly enjoyable wine all the same and definitely among the better wines we tasted. The other attendees thought the wine was quite terrific as well, as it got 9 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of eighteen 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, making it finish on shared second place. At approx. 40€ the wine might not be the most affordable Langhe Nebbiolo out there, but at this quality I'd rather buy this wine than a lesser Barolo from the same price point. Drink now or within the next 7-10 years.
(92 points)
The Extras:
- 2015 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (27.1.2024)
A Riesling from the VDP.Grosse Lage Scharzhofberg in Wiltingen and even if the front label doesn't bear the "GG" designation, according to the back label this is a GG Riesling. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, medium-deep and quite intense lemon-yellow color. The nose is quite instantly identifiable as a Riesling with rather sweet and nuanced aromas of beeswax and lemon marmalade, some diesel tones, a little bit of peachy stone fruit, light honeyed notes, a hint of ripe Golden Delicious apple, a mineral touch of stone dust and a floral whiff of orange blossom. There seemed to be a tiny hint of sulfurous reduction at first as well, but it blew off very quickly. The wine feels ripe, juicy and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and fresh red apples, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light mineral notes of wet rocks and chalky bitterness, a hint of honeyed sweetness and a touch of tinned peach. The high acidity lends great sense of structure and acidity to the wine. The finish is long, focused and quite acid-driven with an intense aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of spicy red apple, light beeswax tones, a hint of salinity and a touch of chalky bitterness.
Four years ago this was a rather shy and taut wine, one which seemed to be more about aging potential than immediate enjoyment. Well, it seems that the wine has evolved in a beneficial direction, as it was both more expressive and also somewhat more developed at the moment. The wine isn't particularly evolved or tertiary, however; the wine has picked up some sense of weight and concentration, but the overall fruit profile is still pretty fresh and youthful. Based on how the wine has improved over these four years, I can imagine it will continue on this trajectory for a good number of years more. A very fine and delicious Mosel Riesling, highly recommended. Superb value at 26,90€.
(94 points) - 2011 Alves de Sousa Douro Quinta da Gaivosa Vinha de Lordelo - Portugal, Douro (27.1.2024)
A single-vineyard Douro from the Lordelo vineyard, being the oldest in the Gaivosa estate at over 100 years of age. The wine is a field blend of over 30 local varieties, consisting of Touriga Nacional, Malvasia Preta, Tinta Amarela and numerous other varieties, harvested of September 23rd, 2011. All fruit destemmed, fermented and macerated over a period of 2 weeks. Aged for 15 months in new French oak barriques. 15% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar, 5,12 g/l acidity, 0,75 g/l VA and pH 3,68. Tasted blind.
Dense and fully opaque blackish-red color with a moderately evolved brownish hue. The nose feels old, tired and somewhat Amarone-like with aromas of raisins and pruney dried fruits, some volatile notes of ether and nail polish, a little bit of wizened red cherry, light plummy tones, a hint of spicy wood spice and a vague leafy touch of herbaceous greenness. The wine feels dense, extracted and somewhat tired with a full body and intense, sweetly-fruited flavors of raisins and prunes, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of earth, light extracted bitter tones, a hint of tobacco and a touch of old, dry leather. The high alcohol makes the wine feel moderately warm, while the overall feel is pretty stern and structured, thanks to the high acidity and quite ample, extracted and chewy tannins. The finish is long, slightly hot and quite grippy with an intense, savory aftertaste of raisiny dark fruit, some pruney tones, a little bit of tobacco and earth, light extracted bitter tones, a hint of wizened black cherry and a lifted touch of ethery VA.
A few years ago I thought this was a very impressive blockbuster of a wine that would require another ten years or so before it reaching its apogee, whereas now the wine felt quite old, tired and pruney. I wonder if the wine has fallen apart so completely in just a few years, or if the first bottle we tasted was just in a great shape, whereas the provenance of this latter bottle might've been questionable? Or then it might've been possible that the cork here might've just failed? Until I get to re-taste this wine for the third time - to confirm whether this tired bottle was representative of this vintage now - I will refrain from rating the wine. Were this wine representative of how it should be performing now, only a dozen years from the legendary 2011 vintage, I'd give it a score in the low 80's. - 2007 Alves de Sousa Douro Reserva Pessoal - Portugal, Douro (27.1.2024)
A blend of +20 different varieties (mainly Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Touriga Nacional) from a 80-yo plot within Quinta da Gaivosa vineyard. This is a special Garrafeira version of Quinta da Gaivosa wine, released only from exceptional vintages and only with minimum 7 years of aging. Minuscule production. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite dense, opaque and somewhat evolved blackish-red color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels evolved, quite rich and moderately sweetly-fruited with aromas of ripe dark fruits, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of dried figs, light notes of blueberry juice, a hint of tobacco, a touch of old leather and a lifted volatile whiff of nail polish. The wine feels ripe, evolved and quite chewy on the palate with a full body and juicy flavors of prunes and wizened figs, some blueberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light earthy tones, a red-toned hint of sweet strawberry and a touch of leather. The overall feel is pretty balanced and structured with the high acidity and ample, ripe and grippy yet not tough tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite grippy with a rich, dense aftertaste of dried dark fruits, some pruney tones, a little bit of tobacco, light raisiny notes, a hint of blueberry and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a moderately warm note.
This was pretty similar to the wine we tasted a year ago - maybe a bit more evolved, showing even less of those oaky nuanced (which were much more pronounced when the wine was younger) and more of those tertiary dried-fruit flavors. Not that much though, but enough to make me think that maybe the wine is evolving at a slightly faster pace than I originally anticipated. I feel that the wine is at its peak right now and it will stay there for a good handful of years; no further aging in called for. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 55€.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
