TN: Tasting w/ Ken Zinns....(short/boring)

Ken Zinns & Alan Garretson were in town to visit LosAlamos & see the sights. We got together Mon night at Pig+Fig for dinner & taste some wines:

  1. Idlewild Timorasso (11.5%) 2020: color; quite attractive Timo/floral/gardenias slight stony/chalky lovely fragrant nose; rather tart/tangy bit lean/restrained/understated slight savory/saline fairly floral/Timo/gardenias bit stony quite perfumed flavor; very long finish that mimics flavor; a lovely restrained expression of Timo but a bit simpler but speaks strongly of Timo w/ greater purity of Timo fruit.

  1. Madirola Timorasso Dd’OC: Colli Tortonesi Derthona (13.5%; ThePiedmontGuy/Shafer/MN) 2022: Light gold color; very strong fragrant Timo/spicy/floral/gardenias fairly mineral/chalky bit herbal rather aromatic lovely perfumed some complex nose; lightly tart/tangy/metallic strong floral/gardenias/Timo/spicy bit richer/lusher some complex flavor; very long/lingering floral/Timo finish that follows flavor; a bit more intense floral complex more mineral more structured interesting expression of Timo.

  1. Cesconi Nosiola IGT: Vigneti delle Dolomiti (12%; ShiverickImprts/LosAngles) Cesconi/Pressano 2020: Med.dark gold color; strong very floral/carnations/melony slight herbal/Kansas haymow bit buttery light pencilly/oak some complex almost ripe/SB-like some complex nose; fairly tart/tangy strong Nosiolo/floral/carnations/melony slight herbal/SB-like slight tangy/citrusy/grapefruity bit complex/Kansas haymow flavor; very long/lingering slightly ripe/herbal finish that tracks flavor; quite an attractive expression of Niosola.

  1. BrocCllrs Amore Blendo FoxHillVnyd/Mendo (12%; Coferment RW; Grignolino/Erbaluce/Nebbiolo/DolcettoFreisa) Berkeley 2023: Light red color; fragrant cherry/strawberry/Brachetto-like quite perfumed high-toned aromatic nose; slightly tart bright/zippy cherry/straberry/Grignolino-like flavor w/ little tannins; med.light finish w/ an unpleasant mousey/wet-dog-fur aftertaste that very much detracts from the wine; quite an attractive Vin de Soif/glou-glou wine until the aftertaste kiks in far in the backtaste.

  1. Rodaro Schioppettino Dd’OP: Friuli Colli Orientali (13.2%; www.RodaroPaolo.It; BotiqueWineCollection/Philadelphia) Cividale del Friuli 2017: Med.dark color; strong very spicy/peppery/Schio bit plummy/licorice slight smokey/oak fairly complex some evolved lovely Schio nose; fairly tart/tangy quite peppery/spicy/plummy/licorice/Schio slight earthy/dusty slight oak fairly complex flavor w/ light brisk tannins; very long/lingering classic peppery/Schio finish that tracks flavor; a very lovely expression of Friuli Schio that shows some evolution and not as structured/bracing/peppery as younger versions.

  1. Harrington Angelica Calif Dessert Wine (17.6%; Aged & allowed to oxidize in neutral Fr.oak barrels) HarringtonWines/SanFrancisco) 2017: rather brown color; fairly alcoholic strong Mission/plummy/grapey some oxididative/Madeira-like bit chocolatey quite complex nose; rather fumey/alcoholic some oxidative/maderized/Madeira-like off-dry/slightly sweet strong grapey/plummy/Mission/raisened/bit pruney/late hrvesty very complex flavor w/ slight tannins; a beautiful light-handed expression of Angelica and not as raisened/pruney as many show.

More zinnalbrock from TheBloodyPulpit:

  1. Both of the Timos showed very well. The Idlewild has put on a bit more weight & perfume since I first tasted it several weeks ago. It’s quite a lovely expression of Timo. I slightly preferred the Madirola for its greater complexity, greater intensity character.
    The Nosiola was Ken’s contribution to the evening. It was not a producer I’d ever tried. I like Nosiola quite a lot, especially as expressed by Elizabetta Foradori. It think this Casconi was probably a purer expression of Nosiola but not as interesting as the Foradori, which is made w/ skin-contact in clay Amphora of Jose Padilla.
    The Broc was also brought by Ken, one that he had recently helped bottle. At dinner, it was quite an attractive glou-glou wine that we drank w/ gusto. The next day when I tried the remains at home, this had developed an unpleasant mousey/wet-dog-fur aftertaste that was very unpleasant. When you belched (a behavior character we LosAlamos-type specialize in), that unpleasant taste would well up in the back of your mouth. This is a natural wine, so maybe not too surprising. Best advice is just crack that sucker open, down it was gusto, and enjoy as a vin de soif.
    The Harrington Angelica that Ken brought in was one I had not tried. It supposedly came from Lodi Mission vines & Marco Capelli advised them on making it. I was rather impressed by it. It showed a lighter hand in its making than most Calif Angelicas and more complexity. Quite a lovely Calif Angelica.
    These are wines we had w/ our lovely dinner at Pig+Fig. Joining us was Linda Deck. a knowledegable member of my wine group w/ a great palate. She was the former director of the Bardbury Science Museum, one of the top 10 Science Museums in The Nation. The next day, we did a walking tour of downtown LosAlamos and a walk-thru of Fuller Lodge afore I gave them a personal tour of the Bradbury Museum. A good time was had by all I believe.

Great to see you, Tom, and thanks for introducing Linda to Alan and me. Really enjoyed your company, and the food at Pig + Fig was terrific.

With regard to the Mission Angelica, I made one for Bryan Harrington in 2015, and this 2017 vintage was the second one. The fruit for both came from Somers Vineyard in Lodi - I was directed to the vineyard manager by Marco Cappelli, who also gave me great tips on making the Angelica - he’s undoubtedly made more Angelica than any recent California winemaker. Fortified to about 18%, RS is about 21%, perhaps more than I’d normally prefer but wanted to stick with what’s believed to have been a traditional way of making Angelica and fortifying just as fermentation starts. Aged in an older barrel and not touched until just before bottling so the wine was allowed to oxidize. Glad you enjoyed it!

1 Like

I really miss that guy

1 Like

I don’t think Bryan got the recognition he deserved for his contributions to the Calif wine industry. He could truly think outside the box.


I loved so many of Bryan Harrington’s wines, yes what a loss that he’s no longer producing. That said, what a run!