Last summer a friend invited me to a small BYOB-session. He told that there were going to be some a bit more pricey wines, so I’d better not to bring some ten-buck natty oddball, but instead “something nice”.
Well, I don’t collect expensive blue chip wines that much, so I thought d’Oliveiras Frasqueira Madeira would be close enough. Expensive, quite hard to come by and - most importantly of all - great stuff.
So, yeah. We had some nice wines.
We also had a fizzy aperitivo in the beginning and at the end of the evening one of us grabbed a white Musar that had been opened some 50 days earlier, but only for a glass or two, then re-corked and kept in the cellar. These, however, didn’t make it to the lineup photo.
- 2009 Wegeler Riesling Sekt Brut Geheimrat "J" - Germany, Rheingau (12.7.2023)
A blend of fruit from 15 Erstes Gewächs sites. Riesling Auslese used for dosage. 12,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep golden yellow color with a faint youthful greenish highlights. Distinctively sweet-toned, Riesling-driven nose with aromas of apricot, some lemon marmalade, light apple jam tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, a hint of beeswax and a petrolly whiff of diesel. The wine feels dry-to-dry-ish on the palate with a sparse and somewhat modest yet moderately persistent mousse, a medium body and ripe, characterful flavors of apricots and even peach candies, some beeswax, a little bit of honeyed richness, light floral tones, a hint of apple jam and a touch of banana. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The round finish is dry-ish and moderately tropical with a somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of peach candies, some floral tones, a little bit of apple jam, light honeyed tones, a hint of banana and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
This is a very distinctive and quite idiosyncratic Riesling Sekt that is technically dry, but with its rather noticeable ripeness and fruit-forward nature, the wine still comes across as somewhat sweeter than it really is. I guess that Auslese addition really kicks the ripe fruit flavors up a notch! All in all, the wine left a rather similar impression as on the last time, some two years ago. I guess the wine might be a bit weird and/or too sweet-toned for some palates, but I do enjoy the quirks of this singular bubbly. Seeing as the wine doesn't show that much sense of evolution, I wouldn't have any worries seeing the wine fall apart anytime soon.
(92 points) - 2014 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (12.7.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from an old parcel in Ambonnay. Vinified and aged in oak barrels (1/3 new). 12,5% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and quite translucent yet still rather deep ruby red color. Noticeably Burgundian nose with attractive aromas of cherries and ripe cranberries, some fragrant notes of orange rind, light floral notes of violets, a little bit of wild strawberries, blackberry-driven hints of dark forest fruits, a perfumed touch of exotic spices and a whiff of sweet oak spice. The nose is just brimming with beautiful Pinosity. The wine feels dry, firm and acid-driven on the palate while being very airy and light on its feet with a light-to-medium body and intense flavors of ripe black raspberries and tart lingonberries, some woody notes of oak, a little bit of savory Pinosity and meaty umami, light floral notes of violets, a fragrant hint of blood orange and a sweet touch of cherry juice. The overall feel is harmonious and enjoyably structured with the high, crunchy acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, juicy and gently grippy with a ripe yet dry and savory aftertaste of black raspberries and Bing cherries, some tart lingonberries, light floral notes violets, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of woody oak.
A beautiful, tasty and so harmonious Pinot Noir. I had heard lots of praising comments on the Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Rouge beforehand, but as I am very wary of the hype train effect, I wanted to approach the wine with healthy skepticism and with an analytical mindset. However, I have to admit that the hype seems real: this is one darn fine Pinot Noir by any standards. As is typical of Coteaux Champenois reds, the wine is quite light in body and might feel a tad lithe for people who prefer wines with more weight and gravitas, but that doesn't mean the wine would be underwhelming - on the contrary: the wine is bursting with substance and the intensity of the fruit is on a level of its own. There's so much going on here with nothing in excess. Even the oak impact seems very modest, despite the wine seeing quite a bit of new oak. I was looking forward to tasting an Armand Rousseau this evening, but I have to admit that this Egly-Ouriet managed be the more impressive wine this time around. Yet still I think ~150€ for a bottle of wine is just too much, so that taken into account, I really can't get myself to say the wine was worth the price.
(95 points) - 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (12.7.2023)
Made with mostly destemmed Pinot Noir. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, aged for 20-24 months in oak pièces. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, translucent and somewhat evolved cherry-red color with a slightly rusty hue. The perfumed nose feels fragrant and quite intense with layered aromas of blackberry marmalade, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of ripe cherry, light sweet nuances of cooked beet, a brambly hint of raspberry and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The wine feels silky, harmonious and richly textured on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of juicy black cherries and ripe raspberries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of fresh wild raspberry, light fragrant notes of rose petals or floral spices, a hint of dark plummy fruit and a ferrous touch of blood. Although the wine isn't big or weight in any way, it does show quite a bit of gravitas and sense of density. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the gentle, supple and ripe tannins. The finish is long, perfumed and subtly grippy with a ripe yet dry aftertaste of cherries and crunchy cranberries, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of meaty umami, light fragrant nuances of exotic spices, a hint of brambly raspberry and a sweeter touch of blackberry marmalade.
A beautiful, harmonious and attractive Clos de la Roche. With its fragrant, somewhat floral and slightly exotic overtones and suave texture, the wine as a beautifully sensuous overall feel, yet not without good sense of intensity and density. Fruit the fruit perspective, the wine is still very youthful and vibrant, not showing any signs of age yet. However, structurally the wine doesn't seem to call any additional aging and the wine is wonderfully approachable at the moment. Most likely this wine will continue to age gracefully for years, even decades, but it is completely open for business right now. However, no matter how lovely the wine is, I think the price for this wine has been just bonkers at 330-350€. I'm not saying a word of the prices at which the wine sells for today.
(94 points) - 1983 Hubert D'Arnonville Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (12.7.2023)
Moderately hazy - even slightly cloudy - and rather dark yet still quite translucent murky maroon-red color. The nose feels evolved, autumnal and a bit tired with aromas of damp earth and forest floor, some wizened figs, a little bit of grated carrots, light raisiny nuances and a volatile hint of nail polish. The wine feels evolved, velvety smooth and a bit tired on the palate with a medium body and very tertiary flavors of dried cherries and earth, some leathery tones, a little bit of something metallic, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a sweeter hint of blackberry marmalade and a touch of old leather. The overall feel is somewhat tough and stern, thanks to the high acidity and quite grippy, rustic tannins. The finish is juicy, somewhat sweet-toned and rather tannic with a long, tertiary aftertaste of raisiny dark fruits, some cherry marmalade, light leathery nuances, a little bit of something metallic, autumnal hints of damp leaves and forest floor and a volatile touch of sweet nail polish VA.
A decent and somewhat drinkable Grand Cru Burgundy that is starting to fall apart. The fruit department is starting to feel very tired and is drying out, whereas the structure remains still quite tough and stern - especially the rustic, quite extracted tannins have quite some prominence, seeing how relatively light the wine is otherwise. I guess the wine could've been more balanced and impressive in its youth, when it has shown more fruit, but now the wine is getting too old for my preference. Not marking the wine as defective, seeing how it is still drinkable and not thoroughly oxidized, yet, but there's no way around the fact that this wine is now at the end of its line.
(85 points) - 2014 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso PrePhylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (12.7.2023)
This special bottling of Calderara Sottana is 100% Nerello Mascalese from two prephylloxeric parcels totaling to 0,8 ha in the 4-hectare contrada Calderara Sottana, located on the contrada's corner closest to the esteemed, higher-altitude contrada Calderara. Considering how phylloxera arrived on Etna in 1881, these ungrafted vines must have been at least 133 years old by the time of making the wine. Aged for 14 months in a combination of French oak barriques and tonneaux, then blended together and aged for another month in stainless steel tanks. 14,5% alcohol. Total production 4,000 bottles.
Deep, dark and slightly translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels beautifully perfumed and captivating with youthful, somewhat sweet-toned aromas of ripe black cherries and heady wild flowers, some raspberry marmalade tones, a little bit of violets, light strawberry nuances, a hint of raw red meat and a touch of juicy boysenberry. The wine feels dense and concentrated on the palate yet still surprisingly airy in texture with a rather full body and ripe yet not particularly sunny flavors of juicy dark berries and fresh black cherries, some bilberry tones, a little bit of raspberry marmalade, light savory notes of meaty umami, stony hints of mineral spice and a floral touch of violets. The alcohol does show a tiny bit, but not too much. The overall feel is balanced and pretty muscular with its moderately high acidity and ample and moderately grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The finish is long, juicy and somewhat grippy with a nuanced aftertaste of bilberries and raspberry marmalade, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of strawberry juice, light stony mineral notes, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of fresh black cherries.
A fantastic, characterful and vibrant Etna Rosso that is loaded with power, freshness, nuance and elegance. It's crazy how we had a fantastic bottle of Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche right before this wine, yet nobody felt this was any lesser of a wine. Sure, the wines were different both aromatically and from a weight or ripeness point of view, but both the wines showed similar sense of finesse, balance and complexity that it would've been impossible to put one wine before the other, qualitatively speaking. This stunning wine is drinking mighty well right now, but as it doesn't really show much if any aged qualities, I have no trouble believing this wine will continue to age, evolve and improve effortlessly for another decade or so. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 79,98€.
(94 points) - 2006 Antinori Solaia - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (12.7.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Sangiovese (20%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques. 14% alcohol.
Dense, more or less fully opaque and very deep black cherry color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The dark-toned nose feels dense, somewhat evolved and a bit pruney with aromas of wizened dark fruits, some green-toned minty nuances, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light toasty notes of mocha oak and cedar, a hint of raisin and a touch of dried figs. The overall feel is dense, ripe and dark-toned with a full body and powerful flavors of wizened black cherries and juicy blackcurrants, some sweet, toasty oak spice, a little bit of minty greenness, light blueberry tones, evolved hints of prunes and raisins and a touch of chocolatey mocha oak. The overall feel is pretty stern and muscular with the high acidity and somewhat assertive, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is rich, brooding and somewhat sweetly-fruited with rather grippy tannins and a long, juicy aftertaste of wizened black cherries, some raisiny tones, a little bit of woody oak and sweet toasty oak spice, light minty nuances, a hint of dried figs and a touch of ripe blackcurrant.
A big, hefty and rather modern Super-Tuscan. Unlike some Cab-heavy Super-Tuscans that can feel surprisingly Bordeaux-like in character, this wine was definitely a Super-Tuscan - or just a generic, modern blockbuster Cab. The overall feel is very impressive in its own, concentrated and muscular kind of way. However, the overall feel is a bit too toasty, glossy and oaky for my preference. I enjoy the still rather stern and tightly-knit structure here, but the toasty mocha character has maybe a bit too much emphasis here and the ripe fruit is starting to feel somewhat tertiary already now, veering towards sweet dried-fruit spectrum. I feel the structure is not going to resolve in the near future, but instead the fruit department is starting to get quite evolved and I don't think the wine is going to stay in prime condition for that long - even if 2006 was an excellent vintage in Tuscany. Although the wine is not going to fall apart anytime soon, it might be better if it is drunk within the next ten years or so.
(91 points) - 1999 D'Oliveiras Madeira Sercial - Portugal, Madeira (12.7.2023)
The wine is made with purchased Boal grapes. After approx. 5-6 days of fermentation, the must is rectified to approx. 20% ABV with 96% ABV grape spirit to halt the fermentation. The fortified wine is transferred to old oak casks which are moved to age in Canteiros, ie. in warm warehouses in which the wines age in casks that are never topped up. 20% alcohol. Bottled in 2022, after 23 years of aging in casks, labeled as "Dry".
Pale-to-medium-deep maple syrup color with a deeper, slightly reddish coppery core. The nose feels fragrant and fascinating with seductive aromas of mahogany, arrack and maple syrup, some red-toned dried fruits, a little bit of caramel, light raisiny tones, a hint of bruised apple, a touch of peanut butter and a whiff of sweet smoke. The wine feels dense, concentrated and quite bracing on the palate with a medium body and medium-sweet flavors of syrupy richness and sharp lemony notes of citrus fruits, some apple jam tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light dried-fruit nuances of Sultana raisins and dried dates, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a touch of mahogany. The wine is slightly sweeter and richer than most Sercial Madeiras, but not really as rich as, say, a Verdelho. Typical of the variety, the acidity feels sharp and racy, offsetting a great deal of sweetness from the residual sugar. The intense, focused finish feels quite dense and concentrated with a very long, medium-sweet aftertaste of syrupy richness, some tart lemony tones, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light baking spice notes of cloves and star anise, a hint of smoke and a touch of oxidative nuttiness.
A classic Frasqueira Sercial with relatively modest sweetness and sharp, bracing acidity - both which are the hallmarks of this Madeira style. Although the overall feel was "Madeira-Dry", ie. "just" medium-sweet, the wine seemed a bit sweeter and richer than I'd expect a Sercial to be, but otherwise this was more or less as classic as a Madeira can be. The overall feel was still super youthful for a Frasqueira, meaning that despite the wine was quite oxidative, it still retained some red-toned fruit flavors and the level of complexity was still relatively far from what these wines can show when they are truly old. As these wines develop complexity mainly with barrel aging, I really don't expect this wine to turn into anything stunning with any further bottle aging, but if there are going to be any later releases of this same wine in the future, one can expect them to be quite excellent. At 88€ from the winery, this was priced more or less according to its quality.
(93 points) - 2002 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles Trié Spéciale - France, Alsace (12.7.2023)
Just 6% alcohol.
Evolved, translucent, medium-deep nutty or syrupy-brown color with a luminous golden rim. The super sweet nose feels laughably intense with rich, concentrated aromas of raisins and apple sauce, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of syrupy molasses, light mushroomy notes of botrytis, an oxidative hint of roasted nuts, a touch of caramel or even burnt sugar and a touch of overripe tangerine. The wine feels ridiculously thick, dense and sticky on the palate with a full body and noticeably sweet flavors of syrupy molasses and apple jam, some raisiny tones, a little bit of dried dates, light oxidative notes of roasted nuts, a hint of cherry marmalade and a touch of cooked strawberries. The wine is borderline cloying, but thanks to the exceptionally high-acid vintage 2002, the strikingly high acidity here manages to keep the wine from coming across as too syrupy or heavy, instead lending it a tremendous amount of freshness and energy. The finish is rich, sticky and very sweet with a complex and remarkably long aftertaste of treacle and cherry marmalade, some apple jam, light dried-fruit notes of raisins and dried dates, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, a hint of almond paste and a touch of orange marmalade.
A ridiculously intense, thick and concentrated super-SGN that might be one of the sweetest and most viscous wines I've ever taste (apart from any PX wines, which are a thing of their own). The wine feels almost too sweet and over-the-top at times, only saved by its exceptionally fresh and precise acidity. Even if the wine is bottled in a small 0,375-liter bottle, it needs quite some people to finish one, as getting through anything than a small tasting pour is starting to feel like hard work! This is truly an exceptional wine by any means, but it is more like an exercise in excess than a wine that is fun to drink. There's no denying that this is a very fine and thoroughly impressive wine, but seeing how over-the-top (and, thus, in its own way, somewhat hard-to-drink) it is, I really can't give the wine exceptional points. Sometimes less is more.
(92 points) - 1998 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** Auction - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12.7.2023)
Bears the "Riesling Auktionswein" sticker in the neck, but the label doesn't say Alte Reben (unlike their more recent vintages of the Auslese *** Auktionswein). 8% alcohol.
Deep, concentrated golden yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels sweet, quite youthful and subtly green-toned with intense aromas of ripe lemon and lime marmalade, some Granny Smith apple nuances, a little bit of candied ginger, light greenish nuances of birch leaves and a hint of acacia honey. The wine feels sweet, harmonious and quite acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of lemon marmalade and honeyed richness, some candied ginger tones, a little bit of crunchy Granny Smith apple and tart key lime, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of beeswax and a touch of pineapple juice. The overall feel isn't youthful anymore, but the wine doesn't seem to show much age, either. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness, balance and structure to the wine. The finish is brisk, sweet and persistent with a rather intense aftertaste of pineapple juice and honey, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light saline nuances, a hint of candied ginger and a touch of tart key lime.
A lovely, wonderfully balanced and still remarkably youthful Riesling Auslese that is in a great spot right now, but still holds potential for future development. After two rather aged sweet wines from 2002 (Zind-Humbrecht SGN and Clos Haut-Peyraguey), this wine stood in stark contrast with its vibrant fruit flavors and overall character not showing any signs of oxidation or much tertiary evolution, despite being four years older than the other two. There's wonderful sense of breadth and richness to the wine, yet it feels quite refreshing and even relatively light on its feet despite the sweetness - all thanks to the bright, structured acidity. Drink or keep. This is a superb quarter-a-century-old Auslese.
(94 points) - 2002 Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (12.7.2023)
Typically the wine is a blend of Sémillon (90-95%) and Sauvignon Blanc (5-10%) aged for 18-22 months in French oak barriques (up to 50% new). 14% alcohol.
Evolved, medium-deep bronze color. The evolved nose feels both sweet and savory with aromas of tertiary nutty tones, some bruised apple nuances, a little bit of saffron, light volatile notes of nail polish, a hint of Sultana raisins and a touch of quince jam. The wine feels rich, sticky and slightly oxidative on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of chopped nuts and roasted almonds, some dried apricots, a little bit of canned pineapple and Sultana raisins, light quince jam tones, a hint of saffron and a volatile touch of nail polish. The high acidity keeps the wine effortlessly in balance and lends it good sense of structure, albeit not helping much with the viscous, slightly sticky mouthfeel. The finish is rich, complex and very lengthy with a sweet and slightly oxidative aftertaste of dried apricots and acacia honey, some oxidative notes of roasted nuts along with light smoky nuances, a little bit of Sultana raisin, a hint of saffron and a touch of pineapple.
A lovely, complex and harmonious Sauternes at its peak. Many 2002 Sauternes wines I've tasted have been maybe a bit on the underwhelming side, showing less sweetness, body and complexity - but higher acidity in return. Well, the acidity here is high - true to the vintage - but the wine shows more richness and concentration I expected from this vintage. However, the overall feel is getting so evolved and even slightly oxidative that I feel the wine is not going to evolve any further from here. This is a very lovely and surprisingly fresh effort right now, but I'd say the wine is better drunk sooner rather than later - most likely there isn't much improvement going to happen here anymore.
(93 points) - 2010 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12.7.2023)
7% alcohol.
Medium-deep and still quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels sweet-toned and somewhat tropical with intense aromas of ripe Granny Smith apple and pineapple, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of fresh nectarine, light reductive notes of rubbery air balloon and a peculiar hint of saffron - possibly hinting some botrytis influence. The wine feels lively, fresh and quite youthful on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some pineapple and nectarine tones, a little bit of apple and quince jam, light floral nuances of apple blossom, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of stony minerality. Although the wine is quite sweet, the rather high acidity offsets most of the sweetness from the residual sugar nicely. The finish is lively, long and quite acid-driven with flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some nectarine, a little bit of honeyed richness, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a hint of quince jam and a touch of stony minerality.
A very tasty, balanced and youthful Auslese that is quite vibrant, yet still feels quite subdued for a 2010 Mosel Riesling. Most of the 2010's I've tasted have been ridiculously brisk and racy, whereas this wine is surprisingly harmonious and resolved in character - even the quite high acidity feels a bit low in the context of 2010 Riesling! Anyways, this is a lovely and enjoyable effort. Maybe a bit on the young side, still, but showing good sense of potential for further evolution. Based on how very little the wine seems to have aged in the past dozen years, I guess this will continue to slowly develop and improve for another decade or two. Priced according to its quality at 34,40€.
(92 points) - 2007 Chateau Musar Blanc - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (12.7.2023)
Made with Obaideh (65%) and Merwah (35%) grapes sourced from ungrafted, low-yielding vineyards over 50 years of age, located at the altitude of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) above sea level. The vintage 2007 was an uneven vintage with a sudden spring frost disturbing the growth cycle; cloudy and rainy May preventing 30% of flowering; and a three-week heat wave in August hastening the ripening process before the harvest. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 9 months in a combination of new French 225-liter barriques (25%) and stainless steel tanks. 12% alcohol. This note is on a bottle that had been opened 1½ months before for a few glasses, then closed and kept in cellar temp since.
Surprisingly youthful, pale-to-medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat sweet-toned and a bit subdued with aromas of banana yogurt, some dull notes of sawdust, a little bit of latex, light pineapple nuances, an oxidative hint of toffee and a volatile touch of paint thinner. The wine feels rather underwhelming on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and light flavors of creamy oak, some ripe Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of sawdust, light nuances of toffee, a hint of piña colada and a touch of vague volatile character. High acidity. The finish is lively but quite subdued with a light, medium-long aftertaste of creamy oak, some sweet Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of woolly lanolin, light woody notes of sawdust, a hint of pineapple and a chemical touch of VA.
Surprisingly enough, the wine hadn't oxidized one little bit over the 1½ months. Well, I guess I shouldn't be surprised - Musar is known to be able to take copious amounts of aeration without any problems. However, the wine was so subdued and underwhelming that it seems obvious how 1½ months is just too much even for a Musar. The wine wasn't really off in the way of off-flavors or anything, but the wine had turned to something surprisingly closed and tasteless with air. This was an interesting experiment, showing how Musar really doesn't fall apart even when a bottle has been open for way too long, but as the wine didn't really seem to perform as a good example of 2007 white Musar should, I'm leaving this one unrated.
Posted from CellarTracker
