We tasted tonight (3/22/17) Some New Austrian/Italian Reds:
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Solminer BlauFrankisch deLandaVnyd/SYV (13%; btl#77 of 864) Lompoc 2015: Med.light color; very attractive floral/
lilacs/very spicy light earthy rather classic BF quite pretty lovely nose; fairly tart/tangy strong floral/
lilacs/very spicy light earthy flavor w/ modest tangy/angular tannins; very long tart/tangy/bit metallic very
spicy/floral/lilacs slight earthy finish w/ some spiky tannins; very floral almost like a Nebb in the nose;
not the rich/earthy character of Bergenland BF; quite a pretty/lively expression of BF. $38.00
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Rosi Schuster Blaufrankisch/SanktLaurent Reserve (13%; Prufnummer L-N10005/15) St.Margarethen/Burgenland
2013: Med.color; somewhat earthy/loamy some plummy/black cherry/bit floral classic Austrian BF nose; lightly
tangy/tart strong plummy/black cherry/floral somewhat loamy/earthy very slight bretty fairly complex flavor
w/ light tangy tannins; very long rather earthy/loamy some floral/lilacs/BF/black cherry slight earthy/
horsecollar/bretty finish w/ light tannins; a pretty classic/4-square Burgenland BF. $32.50 (WM)
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moric HausMarke Rot (13%) vonRolandVelich/Grosshoflein/Burgenland 2014: Med.light color; rather spicy/black
pepper fairly earthy/loamy light plummy/Pinotish/floral quite pleasant nose; very tart/acid/tangy/grapefruity/
bit metallic light plummy/Pinotish/floral very austere flavor w/ light bitey tannins; short very acid/tangy/
metallic light floral/Pinotish/plummy somewhat earthy/loamy very austere finish w/ light spikey tannins; some
pleasant things therein but a very screechy acidity makes it rather hurtey on the palate. $23.90 (WM)
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Jagini Zagersdorf Blaufrankisch (13.5%) vonRolandVelich & HannesSchuster/Zagersdorf 2009: Med.dark color; some
toasty/smokey/oak some earthy/loamy strong plummy/black cherry/BF fairly complex nose; bit soft strong toasty/
smokey/oak slight tangy/metallic strong plummy/BF/black cherry light earthy/loamy/BF some complex flavor w/
modest ripe tannins; very long strong toasty/smokey/oak strong BF/plummy/black cherry/black cherry cola light
earthy/loamy soft/rich finish w/ some soft/smooth tannins; a pretty unusual expression of BF. $55.50 (WM)
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Forlorn-Hope Ost-Intrigen St.Laurent RicciVnyd/Carneros (9.64%; 125 cs) 2015: Med.light color; rather fragrant/
Pinotish/floral/cherry light smokey/oak bit herbal/green rather attractive/pretty nose; some tart/lean/eviscerated
very light cherry/Pinotish bit washed-out/vapid flavor w/ light gentle tannins; med.short light herbal/cherry/
Pinotish pretty tart/lean finish w/ light gentle tannins; some rather pretty character in this wine but leans
towards lean/vapid on the palate. $34.60
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Ebner-Ebenauer St.Laurent Weinviertel AlteReben (13%) 2012: Med.light color; beautiful spicy/floral/Pinotish/
very cherry/bright very slight earthy very aromatic nose; lightly tart very attractive Pinotish/floral/cherry/
bright/spicy slight walnutty very light earthy fairly elegant/delicate flavor w/ light smooth/gentle tannins;
very long quite spicy/floral/cherry/vibrant/Pinotish delicate light earthy finish w/ light gentle tannins;
a very pretty/delicate expression of StLaurent at a great price. $21.90 (WM)
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cantineGarrone Munaloss vino rosso (50% Nebbiolo/30% Croatina/20% Barbera; 12 mo. in SS) NV: Med.dark color;
some earthy/dusty bit spicy/pungent/tarry slight floral/lilacs bit Barbera/Italian herbs bit rustic quite
interesting attractive nose; rather tart slightly rich/mouthfilling earthy/dusty/pungent quite spicy some
floral/lilacsNebb bit spicy/dried herbs/Barbera flavor w/ light rough tannins; very long earthy/dusty/rough/
rustic slight floral/lilacs/Nebb mostly spicy/herbs/Barbera finish w/ light astringent tannins; a very interesting
rustic red that speaks more of Barbera than Nebb; a great-drinking rustic Italian red at a great price.
$18.50 (WM)
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cantineGarrone Ca d’Mate DOC: Valli Ossolane Rosso (13.5%; L.202/15; www.WineMonger.com; 70% Nebbiolo/20% Croatina/
10% Prunent) Domodossola/Crevoladossola 2013: Med.color; lovely fragrant floral/lilacs/rose petal/Nebb light
earthy/dusty quite fragrant complex beautiful nose; some tart/hard/lean some floral/lilacs/rose petal/Nebb
structured fairly rich/textured bit earthy/rustic/dusty complex flavor w/ modest hard tannins; very long/lingering
strong floral/rose petal/lilacs/Nebb bit earthy/dusty/rustic/rough complex finish w/ modest hard/rough tannins;
needs some 3-8 yrs yet; a unique & singular expression of Nebbiolo at a great price. $29.25 (WM)
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Castello di Castellengo il Centovigne DOC: Coste della Sesia Rosso (13%; 70% Nebbiolo/20% Vespolina/10% Croatina;
EB) Cossato 2010: Med.light color; very fragrant/perfumed Nebb/floral/lilacs/violets quite spicy bit alcoholic
lovely Nebb nose; rather acid/tart/rough some floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets bit earthy/dusty very rough/rustic
interesting flavor w/ ample hard/rough/agressive tannins; quite acid/tart/metallic rather rough/rustic/hard
some floral/Nebb/lilacs/violets austere finish w/ abundant hard/grippy/gritty tannins; badly needs age;
quite an interesting/attractive Nebb nose but pretty rugged and hurtey on the palate. $26.00 (EVN)
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Castello di Castellengo CentoVigne Rosso della Motta (13%; www.Centovigne.It; L.E15; 80% Nebbiolo +
Vespolina/Croatina/UvaRara) Cossato NV: Med.light color; more fragrant/perfumed/Nebb/floral/violets/lilacs
very aromatic lovely nose; fairly tart some rich/lush strong floral/lilacs/violets/Nebb round/ripe slight earthy
lovely flavor w/ light smooth tannins; very long some floral/lilacs/violets/Nebb fairly soft/rich/lush finish w/
light smooth tannins; much more aromatic Nebb and not the ruggedness of the previous one; speaks strongly of Nebb
& is drinkable and at a great price; probably the gateway drug to Barolo/Barbaresco. $19.00 (EVN)
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Generaj Bric Aut DOCG: Roero (13.5%; www.Generaj.It; Nebbiolo) GianPaolo Viglione/Monta 2011: Light color; very
ripe bit volatile strong floral/lilacs/rose petal/Nebb somewhat earthy quite interesting nose; slightly tart bit
oak smooth/rounf/lush some ripe/floral/lilacs bit hot/fumey/alcoholic very ripe Nebb flavor w/ light ripe tannins;
very long slight hot/fumey some Nebb/lilacs/floral/rose petal quite ripe/rich/lush finish w/ light ripe/soft
tannins; speaks of Nebb but a bit on the overripe side for a Nebb. $25.00 (EVN)
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Terra Cruda DOC: Ortaia Pergola Rosso (EB; 100% Aleatico; Vernaccia di Pergola; 12 mo. in Fr.oak barrels;
L.05.11; 14.5%) Fratterosa/LeMarche 2009: Very dark color; some alcoholic rather lactic/spoiled milk some
floral/rose petal/grapey/cheap hair oil slight mousey/hantavirus very aromatic/perfumed quite strange nose;
soft rather sour very strange grapey/hair oil/Aleatico/bit Muscat-like some lactic/sour milk quite aromatic
flavor w/ light angular/bitey tannins; long cheap hair oil/grapey/muscatty/Aleatico soft quite sour earthy
finish w/ light hard tannins; lots of Aleatico perfume that indicates that this grape can make a very exotic/
interesting wine…but this wine is not that wine; hard to choke down. $28.00 (EVN)
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Pax Syrah TheHermit NorthCoast (U/U; 13.3%; 100% whole-cluster ferment; 10% Castelli-Knight Ranch/
10% AlderSprings/15% Griffin’sLair/25% WalkerVineHill/40% KoblerFamilyVnyd) Forestville 2014: Very dark color;
very strong whole-cluster/peppery some roasted/Rhonish/black olive tapenade/smoked meats light peppery/blackberry/
Syrah slight floral/violets quite savory lovely nose; fairly tart/tangy very strong w-c/peppery some Rhonish/
roasted/smoked meats/espresso somewhat savory/olive tapenade light blackberry/Syrah/peppery/cold-climatelight
earthy flavor w/ modest angular tannins; very long/lingering strong w-c/peppery rather tart some Rhonish/savory/
tapenade/espresso finish w/ modest angular tannins; dominated by the w-c/peppery character that gives it sort of
a Rhonish character at the expense of the Syrah varietal character; a rather rich/savory very interesting
rendition of Syrah; can benefit from from 3-6 yrs of age. $40.00
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DustedVlly PetiteSirah StoneTreeVnyd/WahlukeSlope (20% Syrah; 15.2%; 456 cs) WallaWalla 2012: Black color; very
strong smokey/toasty/charred/oak ripe/boysenberry/plummy/PS slight earthy nose w/ no signs of alcoholic heat;
soft very strong toasty/vanilla/smokey/oak intense boysenberry/blackberry/PS slight earthy/peppery flavor w/
modest ripe/soft tannins; very long soft/rich/lush very strong vanilla/smokey/toasty/oak intense boysenberry/very
ripe/blackberry/PS/bit jammy light earthy/dusty finish w/ modest soft/ripe tannins; a pretty heavy hit of oak but
plenty of intense/ripe/PS underneath; carries the alcohol well; should probably go out another 10 yrs; quite a
good if overripe PS. $30.00
More confused thoughts from TheBloodyPulpit:
- BlauFrankisch: A variety that originated in the Burgenland or adjacent Hungary, where it is known as Kekfrankos.
It is a cross of GouaisBlanc X Unknown. Also known in WashState as Lemberger. Zweigelt is a man-made cross of
BlauFrakisch X St.Laurent. BlauFrankisch was once thought to be a clone of GamayNoir.
- Solminer: The LosOlivos property of Dave & Anna deLaski. They both worked in Austria and focus on Austrian-style
of wines, including GrunerVeltliner. Wines made by SteveClifton.
- Jagini: A cooperative effort of two very highly regarded winemakers in the Burgenland. It was an attempt to think
outside the box on BlauFrankisch and make a BurgundyGrandCru-level of wine. Perhaps they succeeded. It certainly
was made in what is called an international style, but showed the classic character of BF. Given the level of oak
in this wine, I’m guessing the barrels came from Franz Stockinger, one of the most respected coopers in the World,
who sources his oak from Austria/Hungary/Germany/Romania. Given the international style, some folks would become
apoplectic over what they’d done to BF. I found plenty of BF character and rather liked the wine.
- Ost-Intrigen: Not sure what Mat’s intent was on this yrs rendition of StLaurent. Given the anemic alcohol level,
I was prepared for the worst. It was, in fact, better than I was expecting. I was expecting a lean/mean/hard/green
red. It actually, though on the lightish side, had some rather pretty things therein. Not sure if his intent was
harvest early and make just a pretty little fluff of a wine, or if it was an accident and he did the best he
could, given the grapes. Interesting rendition of StL.
- Ebner-Ebenauer: This is my 2’nd wine from this producer. I am very/very impressed with them. Another exciting
discovery for me from EmilySchindler’s WineMonger (www.WineMonger.com).
- Garrone: This is a wnry run by MatteoGarrone up in the Val d’Ossola in the far North of the Piemonte. A month
ago, we tried their '13 Prunent & I was blown away by it as a very unique and exceptional expression of Nebb.
So I went back to EmilySchindler’s WineMonger (www.WineMonger.com) and got the other two Garrone’s she has to
try. While not as exceptional as the Prunent, these were also excellent and very good values. The Val d’Ossola
is tops on my list for my next trip to Italy. Prunent is the local name for Nebbiolo and is the first reference
to Nebbiolo in the Italian literature. There apparently has not been any DNA work done on Prunent. Whether it’s
a clone or a bio-type is a bit murky.
- Italian Nebbiolo: There are a lot of different expressions of Nebb in Italy (that terroir thing everybody
pontificates upon, I guess). Unfortunately, some folks seem to put Barolo/Barbaresco/Langhe atop this pedestal
to worship and reject any Nebbs that don’t match what they regard as the highest calling of the variety. “It don’t
taste like B/B…then it ain’t Nebbiolo”. To my palate, I find the Nebbs from the AltoPiemonte, the Valtelline, and
(now) the Val d’Ossola much more interesting. At NEB#7, we plan to do a tasting for the Nebb winemakers of these
alt-Nebbs to show them other expressions of Nebb so that don’t have to hang their head in shame when they
can’t make their Nebbs taste like B/B.
Tom