Yet another report from one of our blind tastings! The invite to this tasting told only the time, place and price, not a single thing on the wines that we were supposed to taste.
In other words, a tasting right up my alley!
It turned out that the tasting was almost all about good old claret, ie. proper old-school Bordeaux from the days of yore. Not any great big old names, though, but then again, the cost was pretty affordable, so nobody was expecting anything grand. On the contrary, when expectations are taken into account, everybody was way more than pleased with what we tasted!
And, as always, we had a few extra blinds after the tasting proper. As all the wines were tasted fully blind, thereâs no label extra in the score - on the contrary, I was very surprised to learn that some of the pretties wines we had were from the lousy, rainy 1992 vintage - a vintage known for wines that werenât built to age and shouldâve been drunk years ago! Well, itâs always good to taste wines like these fully blind and with an open mind and attentive senses!
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1996 Château Segur de Cabanac - France, Bordeaux, MÊdoc, St. Estèphe (1.9.2021)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent black cherry color. Noticeably green nose with aromas of crunchy yellow bell pepper, some crunchy crowberry tones, a little bit of leafy blackcurrant character, light tilled soil notes of geosmin and a hint of crushed green peppercorns. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and somewhat thin on the palate with flavors of tart lingonberries, some green notes of blackcurrant leaves and earthy geosmin, a little bit of something metallic and an autumnal hint of old leaves. High in acidity with quite light tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, gently grippy and moderately long with rather lean and thin flavors of tart lingonberries, some leafy greenness, a little bit of bell pepper, light earthy notes of geosmin and a hint of crunchy corwberry.
A surprisingly thin, lean and green wine for a 1996 St. Ăstephe. This was not just pleasantly herbaceous, as many pre-2000âs Bdx wines are, but also quite aggressively green and weedy. My guess was an older Chinon or other Loire Cabernet Franc from a cooler 1990âs vintage. Not a particularly impressive wine - this mightâve been better in its youth, but I doubt it has never been anything but relatively light and green in aromatics. Fortunately the greenness subsides a little bit as the wine opens up and the fruit gains some weight, but even then the aggressively green and slightly metallic notes remained in the background, taking their toll. An interesting wine to taste in the name of academic curiosity, but nothing Iâd honestly recommend. Feels a bit pricey for its quality at 23âŹ. (80 pts.)
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1996 Château Larmande - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
Typically a blend of Merlot (2/3), Cabernet Franc (1/3) and a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent pomegranate color. Juicy, dark-toned and slightly sweetish nose with aromas of wizened black cherries, some ripe red plum tones, a little bit of savory, woody spice, light meaty notes and a subtly lifted hint of VA. The wine is ripe, silky and savory on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of cherries, some meaty umami, a little bit of ferrous blood, light woody notes of oak spice, a hint of olive and a touch of toasty mocha character. Nice, high acidity and ample, firm medium-plus tannins that feel quite supple and soft at first, only slowly piling up on the gums. The finish is savory, long and moderately grippy with complex, moderately evolved flavors of juicy dark fruits, some meaty umami, a little bit of woody oak spice, light olive notes, a hint of ripe red plum and a touch of VA.
A wonderfully serious, still quite structured and enjoyably complex St. Ămilion Grand Cru ClassĂŠ. Nothing herbaceous or green here, just good, moderately savory dark-toned fruit. The wine shows age, but is still on an upward trajectory, showing no signs of tiredness. Most likely will continue to improve for another 5-10 years and keep just fine for a good number of years more. Normally Iâm not the biggest fan of Right Bank reds, but these classic, structure-driven old-school clarets are really up my alley. A steal at 26âŹ. (93 pts.)
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1996 Château Tour de Pez - France, Bordeaux, MÊdoc, St. Estèphe (1.9.2021)
Typically a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent pomegranate color. Somewhat restrained nose with subtly sweet-toned aromas of dark plums and other dark fruits, some juicy notes of blackcurrant, a little bit of tobacco, light herbaceous leafy notes, a hint of toasty wood spice and a touch of earth. The wine is dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of fresh blackcurrant, tobacco, some gravelly mineral tones, light ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of meaty character, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of woody oak spice. The overall feel is still quite structured, thanks to the high acidity and firm but quite gentle and supple medium-minus tannins. The finish is firm and dry with quite long flavors of fresh blackcurrants and slightly sweeter notes of wizened red plums, a little bit of meaty umami, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of woody oak spice and a touch of tobacco.
A nicely evolved, albeit a bit restrained St. Estèphe. Not an overtly complex wine, but nevertheless shows good depth of flavor and nice combination of fresh fruit flavors and more developed qualities. Most likely the cellaring potential here is going to be quite limited, but I have no doubts the wine will keep just fine for years more. A thoroughly enjoyable 25-yo claret. A bargain at 20âŹ. (92 pts.)
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1997 Falesco Montiano Lazio IGT - Italy, Latium, Lazio IGT (1.9.2021)
100% Merlot from Montefiascone. Macerated with the skins for 21 days. Aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques. 13% alcohol, 5,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,70. Tasted blind.
Quite translucent and moderately evolved figgy red color. Somewhat restrained, quite sweet-toned and rather smoky nose with aromas of tobacco and tar, some speck, a little bit of dried figs, light leathery notes, a hint of woody spice and a touch of earth. The wine is evolved, dry and firm on the palate with a moderately full body and a touch of sweetness at the tip of the tongue. The wine is savory with slightly tertiary flavors of tart red plums, some toasty smoky notes of tar and cigar, a little bit of smoke-cured pork, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of dried figs and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel is still surprisingly structured, thanks to the bright, high acidity and surprisingly ample and grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and moderately grippy with intense flavors of sour cherry bitterness, some sanguine iron, a little bit of tart red plum, light meaty notes of umami, smoky hints of tobacco and speck and a touch of toasted wood spice.
An impressively structured and quite muscular Merlot with a distinctively smoky character, lending it even a somewhat tarry character. Due to these smoky qualities, my first guess was a late 1990âs South African wine. When it was revealed the wine was from the old world, I homed into Italy, guessing an evolved Brunello or Vino Nobile that had seen some oak. Well, got relatively close to the ballpark, but not fully there yet. Overall the wine was surprisingly firm and structured for a Merlot - coming across as more sinewy and tannic than any of the Merlot-driven Bordeauxs we had in the same tasting - and had lost its most noticeable modernist characteristics over the years, coming across as just enjoyably developed and savory. Even though Falesco is known for their rather polished, modern wines, this didnât come across as overtly modern in any way, although I can imagine the smoky characteristics probably came from heavily toasted new barriques. Nice stuff, all the same. Priced according to its quality at 34âŹ. (91 pts.)
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1996 Couvent des Jacobins - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent and slightly evolved black cherry color. Brooding, somewhat sweet-toned and slightly funky nose with aromas of wizened dark fruits and ripe black cherries, some bretty notes of leather, a little bit of juicy strawberry, light fragrant notes of pipe tobacco and a woody touch of oak spice. The wine is quite ripe, juicy and textural on the palate with flavors of blackcurrants and wild strawberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of tart lingonberries and bitter notes of sour cherries, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of pipe tobacco and a minty touch of herbal greenness. The overall feel is firm yet supple and silky with the moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, ripe and moderately grippy with somewhat evolved flavors of wild strawberries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of ripe redcurrants, light cherry notes, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of earthy spice.
A nice, balanced and moderately evolved St. Ămilion - although not particularly recognizable for such. Although the wine is built like a classic 1996 Right Bank claret, aromatically many (me included) went to Mediterranean; I guessed an older Languedoc wine (thinking of perhaps Mas de Daumas Gassac or a Pic-St. Loup) while other guessed Bandol or Southern RhĂ´ne. Despite the somewhat southern feel of the wine, the overall impression was that of an enjoyable 25-yo GCC St. Ămilion, but one that was also a bit generic - no obvious lows, but also lacking the highs. Good, but nothing truly memorable. Good value at 32âŹ, though. (90 pts.)
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1992 Couvent des Jacobins - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite translucent and slightly evolved ruby red color. Surprisingly fragrant, expressive and slightly wild nose with surprisingly youthful aromas of sweet, brambly raspberries, some floral tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light leafy green notes, a minty hint of cool herbal character and a hint of wizened red fruits. Overall the wine would show more Pinosity than classic claret aromas, if it werenât for the slightly minty and leafy undertones. The wine is dry, focused and light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with a slightly lean yet surprisingly juicy overall taste. Flavors of ripe raspberries, some wizened sweet strawberries, a little bit of bright cherry-driven fruit, light leafy green tones, lifted fragrant hints of something sauvage and slightly floral and a touch of sous-bois. Quite high acidity with moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is juicy, quite long and moderately grippy with savory flavors of wild strawberries, some wizened raspberry tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrants, light gravelly mineral nuances, a hint of leafy greenness and a touch of lifted floral character.
A very distinctive, fresh and fragrant St. Ămilion that might not be what one would expect from a Right Bank claret almost 30 years old, but which doesnât disappoint either. In the tasting everybody was confused by the wine and the guesses ranged from northern Italy to older Beaujolais. Wonderful brightness and purity of fruit here, all combined with great sense of structure. 1992 was supposedly a poor year for Bordeaux, but this wine performed much better than Couvent des Jacobins 1996 that was tasted alongside and came across as a wine that is still on an upward trajectory. The wine and especially the vintage took everybody by surprise when the bottle was revealed. Really a steal at mere 17âŹ. (94 pts.)
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1992 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, somewhat evolved black cherry color with a subtle reddish-hickory hue. Juicy, clean and quite fruit-driven nose with aromas of slightly wizened dark plums, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of ripe forest fruits, light woody notes of cigar box, a hint of sweet blueberries and a touch of earth. The wine is dry, somewhat evolved and vibrant on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body, beautifully silky texture and savory flavors of wizened plums, some meaty notes of umami, light leafy green nuances, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of sweet bilberries and a touch of old wood spice. High in acidity with ample, fine-grained tannins that still pack healthy grip. The finish is long and layered with moderately grippy tannins and savory flavors of wizened plums, some tobacco, light umami notes of savory meatiness, a little bit of woody pencil shavings character, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of leafy greenness.
A lovely, vibrant and surprisingly fruity Grand Cru ClassĂŠ St. Ăm that is in remarkably youthful shape, considering how 1992 is always thought of as a lesser vintage. This was just singing at the moment, and even though the wine was drinking wonderfully right now, I wouldnât be surprised if the wine actually continued to improve for at least a handful of years more. Classic 1990âs claret that offers everything a fan of old-school Right Bank wine could ask for.Great value at 43âŹ. (93 pts.)
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1993 ParÊs Baltà Cabernet Sauvignon Penedès Reserva - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès (1.9.2021)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale and slightly hazy brick-orange color with an oxidative maroon hue and a thin, yellow rim. Pungent, quite oxidative and somewhat aldehydic nose with aromas of beef soup, some raisiny tones, a little bit of soy sauce, light Marsala tones and exotic, spicy hints of curry. The wine is raisiny and oxidative on the palate with a medium body and fully tertiary flavors of Marsala and beef broth, some soy sauce, light sweet notes of raisins and other dried fruits, a hint of aldehydic salinity and a touch of meaty umami. The wine is high in acidity with no noticeable tannins. The finish is old, oxidative and medium in length with flavors of raisins, some metallic notes, a little bit of aldehydic salinity, light oxidative notes of beef jerky and soy sauce and a touch of curry.
Oxidized and past its peak. This was waste of money at 26âŹ. NR (flawed)
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1990 Château Desmirail - France, Bordeaux, MÊdoc, Margaux (1.9.2021)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, dark brick-red color with an oxidative syrupy-brown hue. Evolved, savory and moderately tertiary nose with aromas of wizened dark fruits, some tomato, a little bit of oxidative beef jerky, light pruney notes, a sweet hint of cherry marmalade and a perfumed touch of potpourri or dried flowers. The wine is evolved, ripe yet dry and rather tertiary on the palate with a medium body and somewhat oxidative flavors of soy sauce, some sour cherry bitterness, light pruney notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, oxidative hints of dried blackcurrants and earth and a touch of something vaguely metallic. The overall feel is still quite lean and structured, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, moderately grippy and quite tertiary with flavors of soy sauce, some earth, a little bit of tobacco, light crunchy notes of cranberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a sweeter touch of wizened blackcurrants.
A drinkable but already a bit too old Margaux that is slowly gliding downhill. Still offers some old wine pleasure, but is losing brightness and definition fast. Obviously has been a rather stern wine in its youth, but now quite little of its former self remains. Better to drink sooner rather than later - there is no upside to cellaring this wine any further. Probably has been well worth the price at 37âŹ, but not any longer. (83 pts.)
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1986 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
12,7% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent and quite evolved, bricking cherry red color. Evolved, sweetish and nuanced nose that is not as tertiary as I expected - layered aromas of strawberries and ripe red cherries, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of liqueurish VA, light meaty tones, a hint of dried figs and a touch of sous-bois. The wine is juicy, silky smooth and medium-bodied on the palate with a taste that feels ripe yet pretty dry. Nuanced flavors of succulent blackcurrants and black cherries, some crunchy notes of crowberries, light evolved nuances of meat consommĂŠ, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of earth and a touch of tobacco. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the supple, textural tannins. The finish is long, savory and subtly grippy on the gums with layered flavors of sweet dark fruits, some crunchy notes of crowberries, a little bit of evolved meaty umami, light blackcurrant tones, a hint of sweet black cherry and a tertiary touch of bouillon.
A very sophisticated and tasty St. Ămilion Grand Cru ClassĂŠ that is in a terrific spot right now. The tannins have resolved fully, only contributing to the silky structure of the wine, but the fruit retains still a surprising amount of freshness and youthful energy, even if the overall feel is that of an aged wine. Most likely the wine wonât evolve from here, nor has it improved for many years - most likely the wine has been on its plateau of maturity for some years and will remain there for a good handful of years more. Drink or keep - it wonât fall apart anytime soon, but most likely any further aging is unnecessary. At 17⏠this was a steal. (92 pts.)
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1961 Château Moulin Saint-Georges - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Ămilion Grand Cru (1.9.2021)
Tasted blind.
Moderately dark yet quite translucent reddish-maroon color with a thin, pale rim. Evolved, savory and wonderfully complex nose with quite tertiary aromas of earth, meat consommĂŠ, a little bit of wizened cherry, light smoky tones, a hint of cigar and dusty cigar box and a touch of blood. The wine is evolved and tertiary yet not tired on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of dried blackcurrants and wizened red plums, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of ferrous blood, light notes of tobacco, a hint of earth and a touch of sweet, raisiny fruit. The overall feel shows good sense of concentration with great balance, all thanks to the high acidity and ample, textural tannins that feel all but fully resolved. The finish is very long, complex and somewhat grippy with savory, quite tertiary flavors of sour cherries, meaty umami, some dried blackcurrants, light notes of tobacco, a little bit of oxidative beef jerky, hints of earth and sous-bois and a touch of raisiny fruit.
A hauntingly beautiful, classic and harmonious St. Ămilion that is not only alive but also surprisingly vibrant and even moderately concentrated at 60 years of age. The wine might lack the remarkable depth and complexity of the best Left Bank 1961s, but a simple wine this is not - the age has granted the wine superb depth of flavor and the fruit department has evolved considerably, yet still retaining quite a bit of its power and vibrancy. Most likely the wine is at its plateau of maturity and has been there for many, many years. Fortunately the downhill is nowhere in sight yet. Drink or keep. This was a terrific experience - not that affordable at 104âŹ, but still worth the money. (94 pts.)
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2019 Jean Javillier Pinot Noir Bourgogne Magny - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (1.9.2021)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Macerated with the skins for 2-3 weeks. Aged for 12 months in oak. Bottled unfiltered with a minimal addition of SO2. 14% alcohol.
Youthful, moderately translucent and quite dark ruby red color. Very fragrant, primary and sweet-toned nose with aromas of raspberry candies, some strawberry juice, a little bit of boysenberry, light marmaladey notes and a floral hint of violets. Overall the nose reminds me more of hot-vintage Beaujolais or Grenache than anything Burgundian. The wine is juicy, very youthful and primary on the palate with a rather full body and vibrant flavors of sweet raspberries and black cherries, some plummy tones, a little bit of strawberry, light licorice notes, a savory hint of old wood and a touch of salty liquorice. The wine seems to be quite modest in acidity for a Pinot Noir, the structure relying more on the relatively ample and somewhat grippy tannins than on the medium acidity. The finish is long, rich and juicy with some tannic grip and lush flavors of strawberry jam, some licorice, a little bit of boysenberry, light candied notes of raspberry marmalade, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of cherry marmalade.
A lush, vibrant and surprisingly sweet-toned Pinot Noir with lots of juicy, ripe fruit and relatively little in the way of acidity. Thereâs lots of immediate appeal here, but the wine really doesnât talk to me in a language I understand - like I said before: this feels more like a Grenache or a Bojo from a hot vintage, not really a Pinot Noir from Burgundy. It lacks the freshness and focus I find vital in a good Pinot Noir and the overall taste is just way too sweet for my taste. Perhaps the wine might lose some of its sweet, candied character as it ages and loses its primary fruit qualities, but unfortunately I doubt thereâs nothing one can do with the modest acidity. This is enjoyable stuff, but not really my cup of tea. Priced according to its quality at 22âŹ. (86 pts.)
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2013 Romuald Valot Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (1.9.2021)
13% alcohol.
Luminous, quite translucent and medium-deep cherry red color. At first the nose feels subtly reductive with a hint of latex, but it blows off quickly, revealing aromas of brambly raspberries, some earthy Pinosity, light meaty notes, a little bit of peppery spice, fruity hints of strawberries and fresh red plums and a touch of orange rind. Overall the wine feels wonderfully fragrant, even if it isnât that expressive. The wine comes across as fresh and lively on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, earth, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light umami notes of meat, a crunchy hint of cranberries and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The bright, high acidity lends good intensity to the wine, while the firm tannins bring some welcome sense of grip to the mouthfeel. The rather lengthy finish is lively, crunchy and moderately grippy with clean dry flavors of cranberries, sour cherries, some sappy notes of raspberry leaves, a little bit of gravelly minerality and a hint of orange rind.
A clean, firm and sophisticated Beaune 1er Cru red that feels quite typical of the region - the wine lacks the richness and deep fruit more typical of CĂ´te de Nuits wines, instead coming across as drier, slightly leaner and more mineral. The overall feel here is beautifully bright, dry and clean, focusing on crunchy fruit notes and minerality with no obvious oaky nuances. At the age of 8 years the wine is still a mere youngster and I can imagine this wine will continue to improve for many years more. Terrific value at 27âŹ. (91 pts.)
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NV Domaine Le Roc Des Anges Vin de Pays des CĂ´tes Catalanes Cioran - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des CĂ´tes Catalanes (1.9.2021)
The name is an anagram of âRancioâ. Some sources say the wine is biodynamically farmed Grenache Gris, others say it is a blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu. The grapes are harvested early to retain freshness and low pH. Aged in oak barrels sous voile for 5-6 years. No indication of age or base vintage. 14,5% alcohol.
Deep and slightly hazy golden color with a pale bronze core. Noticeably pungent, aldehydic nose with aromas of sorrel, syrupy richness, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of hay, light sweet notes of wizened stone fruits, a hint of chopped roasted nuts and a touch of green almonds. The wine is broad and moderately full-bodied on the palate with complex, aldehydic flavors of sorrel and piercing salinity, some mushroomy funk, a little bit rich creamy oak, light sharp notes of green apples and lemony citrus fruits, a sweet hint of ripe nectarine and a toasty touch of nutty oak. The overall feel is slightly concentrated and viscous, but the moderately high acidity keeps the wine wonderfully in balance. The finish is long, savory and somewhat oxidative with flavors of tangy salinity, sorrel, some hay, a little bit of roasted walnuts, light aldehydic notes of green apples, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of mushroomy funk.
A distinctive, complex and very delicious oxidative wine that feels more like a close relative of Juraâs Vins Jaunes than a Catalan Vin Rancio, which is often heavier and clumsier in style with less emphasis on these tangy, sharp aldehydic qualities. The somewhat noticeable but still balanced notes of creamy oak work surprisingly nicely with the alhdeydic nuances, creating a nice counterpoint of sweet richness to the tangy saline notes. A serious and well-made wine, priced according to its quality at 27⏠for a half-liter bottle. (93 pts.)
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