A report from a tasting that @AskoKassinen threw a year ago. Since I’m an acid-head - especially when it comes to whites - you can probably see that I wasn’t particularly enamored by these wines. Most of them were just too big, ripe and low in acidity for my preference.
Fortunately we had also a few solid performers, though. Some were nice because they weren’t as big and flabby as the others; others were nice despite these qualities.
All the wines were tasted blind, including the red magnum we had with the food, and the extra Nebbiolo in the end.
- 2017 M. Chapoutier Viognier - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (20.8.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Viognier. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels sweet, floral and quite youthful with aromas of ripe grapey fruit, some cantaloupe, a little bit of waxy heaviness, light spicy nuances, a hint of rooibos and a touch of hay. The wine feels ripe, somewhat heavy and a bit flat on the palate with a full body and slightly sweetly-fruited flavors of Golden Delicious apple, some savory spicy notes, a little bit of extracted waxy character, light evolved nuances of hay and nuttiness, a hint of cantaloupe and a touch of bruised pear. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels relatively high for the variety, but isn't high enough give the wine much sense of freshness or structure. The finish is quite long, somewhat warm and a bit spicy with flavors of waxy ripeness and juicy cantaloupe, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of hay and nutty almond character, light grapey nuances, a hint of bruised pear and a touch of savory spice.
A rather simple and linear Viognier without much depth. Comes across as pretty ripe and heavy, too. It feels like the wine is already fading; while it is not oxidized or dead yet, I really don't see the wine gaining anything positive with further aging.
(83 points) - 2021 Stéphane Montez / Domaine de Monteillet Condrieu Chanson - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (20.8.2024)
100% Viognier from lieu-dit Chanson. The grapes are destemmed and cold-soaked with the skins, then fermented in oak demi-muids. Full MLF. Aged in demi-muids for 15-18 months. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels very open and expressive with youthful aromas of ripe grapey fruit, some perfumed floral notes reminiscent of Muscat, light peachy tones, a little bit of exotic spice, a hint of fresh pear and a touch of Provençal soap. The wine feels spicy, intense and very youthful - borderline primary - on the palate with a moderately full body and bright, dry-ish flavors of stony minerality, some youthful sweet fruity notes of pear and grapey fruit, a little bit of fresh apricot, light Muscat-y floral nuances of roses and orange blossom, a lactic hint of apple-flavored yogurt and a touch of Mediterranean herbs. The wine is quite high in acidity, showing quite a bit of freshness and sense of structure for a Condrieu. The finish is long, spicy and slightly warm with an intense aftertaste of exotic spices, some primary notes of ripe pear, light floral notes of orange blossom, lavender, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of fresh apricot and a touch of rosewater.
A very expressive, heady and also surprisingly fresh and serious effort for a Condrieu. The nose here is pretty over-the-top, coming across more like a Muscat or a Gewürztraminer rather than a Viognier, but on the palate the wine feels more typical for the variety; there are some floral notes, but they don't seem as exaggerated as in the nose. The wine seems to have benefited from the cooler vintage quite nicely as the level of alcohol seems pretty modest for the variety and also the acidity comes across as somewhat higher than in many Condrieux. Based on the still super youthful - almost primary - nature of the wine, I predict that this wine will age quite nicely for at least medium term. It will take a year or a few for the wine to reach its optimal drinking window as it loses those candied primary flavors and subtly lactic notes of MLF, but most likely this wine can be aged for another decade or so. Solid stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2022 Domaine d'Aupilhac Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux Les Cocalières Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux (20.8.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Vermentino aka. Rolle (30%), Roussanne (25%), Marsanne (20%), Grenache Blanc (20%) and Clairette (5%). Fermented spontaneously and aged in foudres. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep lemon or straw yellow color. The rather sweetly-fruited nose feels rather Northern Rhône-ish with classic Roussanne-Marsanne aromas of peachy stone fruits, lavender and herbs reminiscent of noble hops along with some savory spices, a little bit of freshly pressed apple juice, light zesty notes of citrus fruits, a hint of creaminess and a touch of pineapple. The wine feels rich and somewhat oily on the palate with a moderately full body and ripe flavors of red Fuji apple and zesty citrus fruits, some floral and herby notes of lavender, chamomile and noble hops, a little bit of beeswax and honeyed sweetness, light stony mineral notes, a hint of creaminess and a touch of ripe pear. For such a relatively big and ripe wine, it is pretty high in acidity. The finish is ripe, long and juicy with a quite intense aftertaste of ripe pear and apricot, some honeyed richness, light floral notes of lavender, a little bit of beeswax, a hint of apple jam and a herby touch of noble hops.
A rich and tasty white very reminiscent of the Northern Rhône whites. Enjoyably balanced and serious in overall feel. While quite similar to the bottle we tasted half a year ago, I felt that this bottle was maybe even a tad better - I wonder if just half a year might have benefited the wine so? Nevertheless, I can imagine the wine will most likely to continue to age and improve for at least a handful of years more. Solid value at 23,50€.
(91 points) - 2022 Domaine Richaud Cairanne Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Cairanne (20.8.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Fermented spontaneously in concrete tanks. Aged for a year in old oak foudres. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Very slightly hazy yellow-green color. The nose feels sunny yet quite fresh and also a bit wild with aromas of Granny Smith apple and chopped herbs, some ripe pear and cantaloupe, light lifted notes of VA, a little bit of waxy funk, a sweeter hint of honey, a touch of hay and a bretty whiff of Band-Aid. The wine feels youthful, ripe and slightly viscous on the palate with a full body and slightly wild flavors of honeydew melon, some primary notes of pear drops, a little bit of waxy funk, light apple jam tones, bretty hints of Band-Aid and phenolic funk and a touch of ripe nectarine. The medium-plus acidity feels a bit modest and the rather high alcohol lends some warmth to the palate. The finish is rich, ripe and moderately warm with a rather long aftertaste of juicy apricot and bruised pear, some waxy funk, a little bit of savory spice, light bretty notes of leather and Band-Aid, a lifted hint of VA and a touch of youthful grapey fruit.
A rich, characterful and moderately funky Southern Rhône white. I actually didn't mind the bretty and volatile nuances here - my bigger beef with the wine was that it was just a bit too ripe and sunny for my taste; the alcohol seemed a bit too high for my preference, whereas the acidity was a bit on the low side for such a big wine, making the overall feel a bit fat and lacking energy. I guess this kind of wine might be successful in cooler vintages, but even if the wine was enjoyable and tasty in its own way, I prefer wines with more freshness and precision. Seeing how the wine was still very youthful and borderline primary, I can see it benefiting from at least a few years of additional aging.
(88 points) - 2022 Julien Pilon Le Bruits des Vagues Marsanne Roussanne - France, Rhône, Vin de France (20.8.2024)
A blend of Marsanne (70%) and Roussanne (30%) from young vineyards in Saint-Joseph and Condrieu. Aged for 10 months in 400-liter oak casks. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful lemon-yellow color with a deeper golden core. The nose feels youthful, floral and somewhat tropical with aromas of cantaloupe and white peach, some beeswaxy tones, a little bit of chamomile and floral spices, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of banana, a touch of leesy creaminess and a lactic whiff of pear-flavored yogurt. The wine feels dry, savory and relatively thin on the palate for a Rhône white with a medium body and quite intense flavors of cantaloupe, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of something metallic, light floral nuances, a sweeter hint of apple jam and a pithy touch of grapefruit bitterness. The rather high acidity makes the overall feel pretty fresh and structured. The finish is juicy, somewhat extracted and a bit oily with a rather long, dry aftertaste of fresh apricot and lemony citrus fruit, some extracted waxy notes, a little bit of apricot, light floral tones, a metallic hint of copper coins and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A surprisingly light and fresh effort for a Northern Rhône white - but also one that feels somewhat unbalanced as well. Although I like Northern Rhône whites that show good acidity, this wine comes across as somewhat thin and lean - as if the fruit didn't attain full ripeness. That is not to say the wine is lacking in flavor, because the overall flavor intensity is relatively high as a matter of fact. However, there are elements like that slightly distracting metallic character or those subtly pithy bitter notes that distract from the pleasure. This was a marginally better bottle than the one we had earlier this year, but still nothing I could recommend. Not expensive at 14€, but doesn't really deliver for the price.
(80 points) - 2020 Guillaume Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Côteau des Ducs - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron (20.8.2024)
The debut vintage of this label. 100% Roussanne, fermented and aged in concrete egg-shaped tanks and amphorae. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, quite dark and moderately evolved golden yellow color. The nose feels very ripe, somewhat dull and a bit tired with slightly oxidative aromas of hay and chopped walnuts, some almond paste, a little bit of bruised apple and a hint of earth. The wine feels broad, evolved and quite heavy on the palate with a full body and somewhat tired flavors of bruised apple, some chopped nuts, light overripe pineapple tones, a little bit of almond paste, a hint of hay and a touch of earth. The medium-minus acidity feels very modest for such a substantial wine. The finish is heavy, waxy and somewhat tired with a medium-long aftertaste of beeswax and slivered almonds, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of nutty rancio, light overripe peachy tones and a hint of hay.
We tasted this wine only half a year ago, and back then it tasted way too young, almost primary. This bottle, on the other hand, was very evolved for its age and getting already quite oxidative. It's either premox, lots of bottle variation or this was an otherwise dud bottle. Don't know where this wine went wrong.
(NR/flawed) - 2022 Domaine Bernard Gripa St. Péray Les Figuiers - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray (20.8.2024)
A blend of Roussanne (60-40%) and Marsanne (40-60%). Aged in partly new oak barrels of different sizes for 12 months. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, somewhat youthful and rather sweet-toned with aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple and some floral and aromatic herby notes typical of both Roussanne and Marsanne, some salty mineral notes of sea air, light creamy oak nuances, a little bit of sweet lemony character, a hint of vanilla custard, a touch of crunchy white currants and a whiff of beeswax. The wine feels rather ripe and slightly viscous yet still somewhat firm on the palate with a rather full body and youthful flavors of white peach and spicy red apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light herby notes reminiscent of noble hops, hints of ripe Golden Delicious apples and honeydew melon and a touch of vanilla. The moderately high acidity offsets some of the viscosity and richness, lending good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is rich and juicy with a rather long and somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of ripe Golden Delicious apple and honeydew melon, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light herby notes of noble hops, floral hints of lavender and apple blossom and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a somewhat warm note.
Unlike the bottle we had earlier this year (that was very rich, rather primary and quite sweetly-fruited), this was a tasty and balanced St. Péray with good sense of harmony and firmness for such a ripe wine. The new oak does still show to some degree and the alcohol is a bit on the high side, but at least the difference between these bottles show that the wine is aging in the right direction. Most likely this will hit its optimal drinking window after a few more years of aging. Pleasant stuff.
(89 points) - 2022 Les Vins de Vienne St. Péray Les Bialeres - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray (20.8.2024)
A blend of Roussanne (80%) and Marsanne (20%) from Saint-Péray. Aged in oak casks for 9 months. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels quite youthful and somewhat oaky with slightly primary aromas of pear-flavored yogurt, some vanilla custard tones, a little bit of sweet Golden Delicious apple, light notes of cantaloupe, a hint of herbal spice and a floral touch of apple blossom. The wine feels broad, rich and quite round on the palate with a full body and somewhat primary flavors of white peach and apple jam, some honeydew melon tones, a little bit of apricot, light floral nuances, candied hints of pear drops and peach jellies and a touch of creamy vanilla oak. The medium acidity is a bit on the soft side and the high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is rich, ripe and quite broad with a long, somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of white peach, some honeydew melon, light floral notes, a little bit of vanilla custard, a primary hint of pear drops and a touch of savory wood spice.
A rich, voluminous and still super youthful Northern Rhône white. Maybe a bit heavy, soft and sweet-toned for my preference, but nothing that would be atypical for the region. I guess the wine might find a bit more balance and finesse as it ages another two-three years, hopefully losing those candied primary flavors in the process. Enjoyable, but nothing I would personally seek out.
(87 points) - 2023 Domaine des Rémizières Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Cuvée Christophe - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (20.8.2024)
A blend of Marsanne (85%) and Roussanne (15%) from 60 yo vines. Fermented and aged in oak barrels (30% new, 70% once used) for 10 months. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale and rather neutral whitish-green appearance. The nose feels sweet, youthful and rather primary with aromas of pear drops, some fresh peachy tones, a little bit of ripe apricot, light candied notes of gummi bears, a faint greenish hint of birch leaves and a touch of grapey fruit. The wine feels youthful, rich and quite oily on the palate with a full body and rather opulent flavors of ripe apricots, some oaky notes of vanilla and creaminess, light honeyed tones, a little bit of chopped aromatic herbs, primary hints of pear drops and sweet grapey fruit and a touch of stony minerality. The medium-to-moderately high acidity keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but it could use a bit more freshness. The finish is ripe, long and rather sweetly-fruited with rich flavors of apricots and stony minerality, some vanilla custard tones, a little bit of apple jam, light creamy oak nuances, primary hints of grapey fruit and pear drops and a floral touch of chamomile.
A rather big, ripe and primary Crozes-Hermitage. The aroma profile is quite heavily dominated by candied primary fruit flavors and vanilla oak. Most likely the wine needs still some more years to get its game together, because it was a bit too much for me in its current shape. However, I suspect the wine is going to come across as a bit too ripe, fat and sweetly-fruited with a bit too little acidity, no matter how young the wine is. Not a bad wine, but nothing special to write home about, either.
(88 points) - 2014 Tablas Creek Esprit Blanc de Tablas - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District (20.8.2024)
A blend of Roussanne (72%), Grenache Blanc (23%) and Picpoul (5%). 13,5% alcohol. Total production 2200 cases. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep and moderately evolved burnished golden color. The nose is starting to feel old, somewhat oxidative and a bit tired with aromas of bruised apple and nutty oxidative notes, some honeyed tones, a little bit of ripe apricot, light arctic bramble nuances, a hint of slivered almonds, a touch of candied ginger and a whiff of wilted flowers. The wine feels evolved, quite substantial and somewhat oxidative with a full body and a bit tired flavors of bruised apple and nutty oxidation, some almond tones, a little bit of wizened apricot, light stony mineral notes, a hint of damp old wood and a faint touch of vanilla. The mouthfeel is quite unctuous and somewhat oily, mainly due to the somewhat modest acidity. The finish is evolved, somewhat oxidative and a bit tired with a medium-long aftertaste of nutty rancio, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light saline nuances, a hint of dried apricots and a touch of vanilla.
This feels like a Châteauneuf-du-Pape that has been kept for too long. I was surprised how quickly the wine had turned this old, since the bottle we tasted 1½ years ago didn't really show any evolved or oxidative qualities, whereas this bottle was obviously going downhill. It was not completely dead yet - far from it - but definitely not in prime shape anymore. The bottle that I tasted earlier wasn't really up my alley, and things haven't really improved with these oxidative qualities. Can't really recommend.
(82 points) - 2019 Christophe Pichon St. Joseph Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (20.8.2024)
A blend almost entirely of Marsanne (95%) with a tiny bit of Roussanne (5%). Aged for 10 months in 0-3 yo oak barrels. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Peachy yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels a bit heavy and alcoholic with somewhat sweet-toned and a bit closed aromas of juicy stone fruits, some woody notes, a little bit of cantaloupe and a hint of stony minerality. The wine feels quite broad and somewhat concentrated yet surprisingly fresh and firm on the palate with a full body and a bit understated flavors ripe white peach, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of dull woody oak, light saline nuances and a hint of fresh nectarine. Somehow the wine feels rich and even somewhat voluptuous, but surprisingly closed and understated at the same time. The acidity comes across as quite high for a white Rhône, making the overall feel pretty fresh and structured. The finish is light and understated with a medium-long aftertaste of white peach, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light woody nuances and a hint of fresh nectarine.
We tasted the wine a few years ago and it was noticeably more expressive and characterful back then. Structurally and texturally the wine was unchanged: this is quite voluptuous and broad wine, but at the same time enjoyably fresh and structured for its size. Aromatically and taste-wise, however, this wine was surprisingly reticent and understated. I don't know whether the wine had evolved so that it was in a some kind of slump now; if the wine was not supposed to be aged for five years; or if it was so subtly corked that it hadn't even killed all the fruit, just making the wine come across as relatively mute. Thus, it's quite impossible to say if we had an off bottle, or if the wine is supposed to be like this now. It's a bit sad that the wine was like this now, but then again - I said in my previous tasting note (2½ years ago) that the wine is probably "best now, in its youth, rather than with age". I guess it's possible that I was right this time? Maybe a bit disappointing QPR now at 19€.
(86 points) - 2019 Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (20.8.2024)
A blend of Clairette and Bourboulenc. Fermented and aged in 600-liter ceramic vessels and 300-liter oak casks for 9 months. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite youthful, pale yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful and sweet-toned with aromas of candied primary fruit, some hay, light herby notes of hops and rooibos, a little bit of ripe Golden Delicious apple, smoky hints of gunpowder reduction, a touch of creamy oak and a floral whiff of apple blossom. The wine feels ripe, rich and youthful on the palate with a full body and bright flavors of honeydew melon and stony minerality, some sweet white peach, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of hay and herby spice, a primary hint of pear drops and a touch of creamy oak. The wine is quite high in acidity, lending it nice sense of freshness and balance - at least for a white Pape. The finish is ripe, youthful and juicy with a somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of white peach, some saline tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light honeydew melon notes, primary hints of pear drops and grapey fruit and a touch of rooibos.
A surprisingly fresh and balanced effort for a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape: although the wine feels pretty ripe and sweetly-fruited, it doesn't come across as excessively ripe; the acidity comes across as relatively high for a white Pape, making the wine feel almost atypically fresh and structured for the style; and the level of alcohol feels quite reasonable, too. My only gripe is that even at 5 years of age the wine feels still too primary with its candied estery notes of pear drops and grapey fruit. Fortunately the wine seems to pack good potential for aging, so maybe with enough time the wine loses its primary qualities and hopefully starts to exhibit some evolved complexity, too. I'd let the wine age for another 5 years more. Considering how I'm not the biggest fan of white Papes, this was a positive surprise.
(90 points) - 2022 Les Vins de Vienne St. Joseph L'Elouede - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (20.8.2024)
A blend of Roussanne (70%) and Marsanne (30%). Fermented spontaneously. Aged in oak casks and foudres for 9 months. 13,5% alcohol. Annual production approximately 10,000 bottles. Tasted blind.
Quite intense, medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, sweet and very floral with aromas of ripe apricots, some perfumed notes of roses and orange blossom, a little bit of crunchy red apple, light primary nuances of pear drops and grapey fruit, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of creaminess. The wine feels ripe yet balanced on the palate with a moderately full body and vibrant flavors of fresh white peach, some crunchy red apple, light primary fruit notes of pear drops and grapey fruit, a little bit of stony minerality, floral hints of roses and orange blossom and a subtle touch of bitters. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is long and vibrant with a balanced aftertaste of fresh white peach, some crunchy red apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary notes of pear drops, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of cantaloupe.
A nice, balanced and almost atypically floral Northern Rhône white. I can imagine Viogniers can get quite perfumed and floral, but rarely Roussanne / Marsanne blends get as fragrant as this wine. The overall feel is still quite primary with somewhat candied fruit flavors, but the wine nevertheless shows good potential for future development with its balanced sense of ripeness and pretty good acidity. Nice, harmonious stuff. Priced according to its quality at 28€.
(91 points) - 2020 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Clos des Grives - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (20.8.2024)
The wine is either a varietal Roussanne of a blend of Roussanne (95%) and Marsanne (5%), depending on the vintage (and the source), from an organically farmed 50-yo vineyard. Fermented and aged in oak barrels (10% new) for 12 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale-to-medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels open, moderately sweet-toned and somewhat oaky with aromas of ripe apricot and creamy oak, some vanilla tones, a little bit of perfumed floral character, light juicy notes of greengage and honeydew melon, a hint of sweet oak spice, a touch of crunchy red apple and a herby whiff of sage and chamomile. The wine feels rich, ripe and somewhat viscous on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of white peach, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of crunchy apple, light juicy notes of honeydew melon and greengage, oaky hints of vanilla and toffee and a herby-floral touch of chamomile. The rather high acidity manages to keep the wine balanced and quite structured, despite the richness and the big body. The finish is ripe yet surprisingly fresh and lively with a rather long and somewhat spicy aftertaste of juicy apricot and greengage, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of crunchy red apple, light floral notes of chamomile and lavender, oaky hints of vanilla and toffee and a touch of savory wood spice.
A rich yet sophisticated and quite balanced Crozes-Hermitage white from the very rich end - I think it is not too far-fetched to say this wine could actually pass off as a white Hermitage. The oak impact is still a bit too much for my preference, but since the wine seems somewhat ageworthy, I think this wine could actually age long enough for the oak to integrate much better with the fruit, or even disappear altogether. A big but pretty serious effort that just needs more time. I'd let the wine age at least until its 10th birthday - and hope for the best.
(92 points) - 2013 Dogpatch WineWorks Marsanne Töövi Fenaughty Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado (20.8.2024)
100% Marsannay from Fenaughty Vineyard in AVA El Dorado, planted in mid-to-late 1990's at the elevation of 820 to 850 m (2700 to 2800 ft) above sea level on volcanic soil. Aged in an oak barrique; not sure if it was new or slightly used, but definitely not neutral. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Rather pale yellow-green color. The nose feels dull, woody and woolly with aromas of sawdust, some mealy yellow apple, light sweet floral notes, a little bit of vanilla, a hint of wool socks and a touch of something vaguely plastic. The wine feels rather ripe and surprisingly youthful for its age, but also pretty dull and woody with flavors of mealy yellow apple, some sawdust tones, a little bit of wool socks, light vanilla tones, a hint of sweet greengage and a touch of salinity. Although the texture is somewhat viscous, the wine still manages to feel pretty precise and structured, thanks to its rather high acidity. The finish is ripe, dull and woody with a medium-long and somewhat unpleasant aftertaste of woolly lanolin, some saline tones, a little bit of sawdust, light vanilla notes, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of herby spice.
This was my third time tasting the wine and it just seems to get worse with time. To my understanding, the wine was supposed to be aged in a neutral barrique, but either the winemakers didn't listen or the wine was racked into a newer barrel at some point, because this tastes like wood, nothing else. Marsanne is known to really soak up any oak flavors and this is a textbook example of this phenomenon. I guess there must've been a lovely, balanced and precise wine somewhere underneath, but unfortunately this is just unpleasant wood juice.
(82 points) - 2000 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos de Beauvenir - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (20.8.2024)
The flagship white of Château La Nerthe. While nowadays the wine is a blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc and aged in demi-muids, it seems that this wine used to be a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne and/or Clairette and aged at least partly in smaller 228-liter oak pièces with a good proportion of new oak. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, deep burnished golden yellow color. The nose feels old, tired and oxidative with nutty aromas of bruised apples and hay, some chopped walnuts, a little bit of ripe orange, light autumnal notes of dry leaves, a hint of beeswax and a touch of grainy character. The wine feels tired, waxy and somewhat oily on the palate with a full body and oxidative flavors of roasted walnuts and bruised apple, some grainy tones, a little bit of hay, light saline mineral notes, a hint of dried apricot and a touch of extracted bitterness. The moderately high acidity lends some sense of structure to the wine, but any sense of freshness gets negated by the dull, oxidative flavors. The finish is rich, oxidative and quite heavy with a long, dull aftertaste of dried peachy fruit and roasted apricots, some saline tones, a little bit of almond paste, light grainy tones, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of dry leaves.
Unlike the bottle we had earlier this year - that was just somewhat past its peak and gliding downhill - this wine was already fully oxidized and dead. No life remains here.
(NR/flawed) - 2018 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rouge La Bondenotte - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre Rouge (20.8.2024)
A Pinot Noir from a 3-hectare vineyard, of which Jolivet owns 0,86 hectares. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel, aged for 11 months in 228-liter Burgundy pièces. 12,5% alcohol. Served from a magnum. Tasted blind.
Dark, youthful and quite luminous blackish-red color. The nose feels youthful, sweet-toned and sappy with aromas of brambly black raspberries and fresh red plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light blueberry notes, a floral hint of violets, touch of old wood and a whiff of almost primary red-toned fruit. The wine feels bright, firm and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and dry flavors of black raspberries, some fresh blueberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light sweeter notes of ripe cherries, tart hints of lingonberries and crunchy redcurrants and a floral touch of violets. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, but there's a little bit of tannic grip as well. The finish is dry, crunchy and gently grippy with a rather long aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some sweeter notes of ripe cherries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light floral notes of violets, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a brambly touch of black raspberries.
A wonderfully fresh and fruit-driven red Sancerre with good flavor intensity and a lovely backbone of acidity. It has lost those candied primary fruit flavors that were still present when I tasted the wine back in 2022, so it is obviously evolving in the right direction. It is drinking really well now, but might also continue to evolve and improve for at least a handful of years more. Lovely stuff and excellent value at approx. 35€ for a magnum. Recommended.
(91 points) - 2017 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (20.8.2024)
Made with organically farmed estate fruit. After the fermentation and maceration on the skins, the wine is aged for 12 months in 2nd use French oak barrels. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark, rather deep and only somewhat translucent black cherry color with a slightly evolved maroon hue and a colorless rim. The nose feels quite dark-toned but also pleasantly expressive with aromas of sour cherries and cherry pits, some tobacco, light licorice tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, dark-toned hints of black raspberries and dark plums, a floral hints of violets and a whiff of sun-baked earth. The wine feels quite firm, chewy and somewhat extracted on the palate with a medium body and ripe yet dry flavors of sour cherries and earth, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light woody nuances, hints of tobacco and licorice root and a touch of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is quite stern and muscular with its high acidity and pretty ample, assertive and quite grippy tannins. The finish is dry, stern and grippy with a long aftertaste of sour cherries and licorice root, some tart red plums, a little bit of tobacco, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of earth and a touch of tart lingonberry.
My biggest gripe with the genre of Langhe Nebbiolo is that all too often the Nebbiolos are just simple, dilute wines that feel like underwhelming leftovers that weren't good enough for Barolo or Barbaresco; my beef with the 2017 vintage is that it was way too hot and dry for my taste, producing wines with too little fruit, unbalanced tannins and way too much alcohol; and my grievance with Chiara Boschis wines has been that they are quite often pretty modern, sleek and too oaky for my taste. For these reasons I have been positively surprised multiple times by this wine - it is as stern, chewy and intensely flavored as I want my Nebbiolo to be, yet it isn't overtly oaky, too extracted or gloopy in any way! Sure, the tannins are ample, as it is with most 2017 Nebbiolos - however, they don't feel excessive but just well-balanced with the ripe, dark-toned fruit. To be honest, I think this wine is better than many 2017 Barolos or Barbarescos I've tasted. A very serious effort that is pretty nice now, but will continue to evolve and improve for a good handful of years more. Recommended.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker