TN: Ruppert-Leroy, Heidseick, Marc Morey, PYCM, Mouton, Pommard, By Farr, Barret, Pialade, Rhys


  • NV Ruppert-Leroy Champagne Pinot Noir Brut Nature Les Cognaux - France, Champagne
    Very nice champagne here. It pours a slightly deeper gold than the average. The nose reveals a somewhat oxidative leaning style: lightly bruised apple, pastry, mint, lanolin. Good acidity on the palate and not too lean and austere for a brut nature. A touch of bruised apple finish on the finish confirms the light oxidative notes. Very nice, but I like a little more autolysis. (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé Rosé - France, Champagne
    The pours a lovely rich shade of copper. The nose is great: rose petal, toffee, furniture, chives, brown spice, sour cherry and brioche. Just a pinch of dosage is present but nicely in balance against medium acid. A beautiful rich red fruited finish rounds things out. Very much enjoyed this, although you certainly pay a premium for this as a rosé. (93 pts.)
  • 2014 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Evidently a lean, light, and airy style. Over time as it warms it gains complexity, but not a lot of richness. The nose is predominantly green fruited of green grape, crushed rock, seashell, cold cream, flint, and a slight onion skin note. The palate is clean and lean with great acid and a nice seashell and crushed rock finish. Almost Chablis like. Representative of the 2014 vintage and a traditional producer. Great wine! (92 pts.)
  • 2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Cuvée Marguerite - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
    The PYCM producer signature is clear from the initial pop. The nose is gorgeous immediately: Kiwi, grapefruit, struck match, flint, soapy florals, crushed rock, dry earth, cold cream, slight vanilla custard, and a hint of fresh white mushroom. Insane complexity for Saint Aubin. The palate features great acid and long finish repeating much of the nose. I just love PYCM. (93 pts.)
  • 1983 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Consistent with my previous bottle. The nose is immediately gorgeous. Clearly leaning to the red fruited spectrum. Aromas of coffee bean, dark chocolate, mint, toasted grain, grilled meat, red cherry, red currant, and baked earth waft from the glass. Complex old school Bordeaux. The palate is a lean style with elevated acid and very little remaining tannin. Total beauty which seems content to sit on it’s plateau. (96 pts.)
  • 1985 Château de Pommard Pommard Cuvée Jean-Louis Laplanche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
    Wow! This far exceeded expectations and was just stunning. Popped and left in the cellar without pouring for about 3 hours. The nose just explodes and is kaleidoscopic, exotic and spicy. Cinnamon, cloves, ginger, churned earth, dried grapefruit rind, pomegranate, strawberry, just hints of soy and brown sugar. Gorgeous. The palate has elevated acid, chalky dusty tannin. More tannin than I expected at this age, which is probably the only thing holding this back for me. Seems to have some stem inclusion based on the spice notes and the elevated tannin. Great bottle! (95 pts.)
  • 2015 By Farr Pinot Noir Sangreal - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong
    [Tasted blind] Light and transparent. Obvious juicy red fruit right out of the gate. Strawberry jam, rasapberries, very ripe pomegranate, menthol, smoke, stems, herbs, and mixed florals. The palate repeats the juicy red fruit, spice and smoke. Called it Farr Pinot Noir blind. (92 pts.)
  • 1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2012 Domaine du Coulet (Matthieu Barret) Cornas Billes Noires - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
    Very nice Cornas clearly styled in the traditional idiom. It pours a deep, rich purple/blue. Fairly opaque, but in no way glass staining. The nose is if creosote, smoke, olives, blackberry, brine, fresh blackberry, fresh blueberry and cracked fennel seed. The palate has good acid and an olive and blue/purple tinged finish. (93 pts.)
  • 2012 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône La Pialade - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
    [Tasted Double Blind] Pours light and transparent with clear flecks of orange. It opens up to a strong and singular navel orange nose on the nose. Over time it becomes accented with a touch of Christmas spice, game, and mossy undergrowth. The palate has high acid, low tannin, and has elevated but not obtrusive alcohol. Nice long finish replaying the orange, light spice and game. Called it bang on… '12 Pialade. Helped I’ve had it twice before. (93 pts.)
  • 2015 Rhys Pinot Noir San Mateo County - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County
    This felt a little tight tonight. Color in the glass is a classic bright, transparent red. There is nice underlying red and blue fruit and even hints of spice to this wine but I’m distracted by elements of toasted coconut and vanilla. Medium acid and tannin. The finish is fresh and bright but replays the coconut. This cuvee has usually been a favorite of mine but on this night I didn’t love it. (89 pts.)

The Marc Morley En Viriondot is a really good wine and given the prices of white burgundy these days a relative bargain. I really like the 2014.

Really nice notes, fun to read–thanks for posting. It’s great when these older bottles of Burgundy show so well. Never heard of the estate before and it seems like it has changed hands. Finally, surprised by your preference for the Rhys San Mateo, somehow think of it as a weaker sister–not surprised at it’s showing in such exalted company.

funny—that 85 Chateau de Pommard was wonderful young and cost little, then seemed to fall apart as it aged. Must have been just closed. Drank that vintage a lot in the 90s, never see the stuff now. Good memory.

Not sure what distribution has looked like over the years, but presently it’s only sold direct from the Chateau. Per Bill Nanson:

The domaine’s wines are sold only at the château and shipped directly to customers all over the world. Because of this, it has none of the ‘free’ marketing machinery enjoyed by other domaines i.e. merchant and distributor newsletters, trade tastings etcetera – this results in a ‘peripheral’ knowledge of the domaine, even amongst enthusiasts.
Château Pommard – Burgundy-Report

This would explain why it’s not on the radar of most burg heads. Even though they have a large, well situated Clos in the heart of Pommard. Nobody at this tasted had ever heard of them. I’ve also had a 1997 that was lovely.

Wine Exchange had cases of the 85 forever back in the day—only vintage I ever saw.