TN: Riesling Felseneck Spatlese Goldkapsel 2022, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich

This is easily available in the UK, so I would guess you could get it in the US. I highly recommend it, it’s quite the drink. Best six-pack I have bought in ages. Well… I do not buy many six-packs… Ah well, I suppose I mean I am chuffed as ninepence to have five more bottles of this (now in storage).

I am extremely fortunate that a friend bought me six bottles of Kabinett of the same vintage, which is nicer than this, but not as good. However, it is a bargain and has years and years of quality drinking in it, so I also recommend that if you cannot stretch to this beauty. If I get around to drinking another soon, I will post a note of that as well.

The 2022 Auslese was sold out, so my wonderful associate thought he should buy some 2021 Auslese instead! Ho ho ho! It is nice to know kind people. I is good to be kind oneself, of course - I gave him a couple of bottles of Stark-Condé Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon that I have just written up (top bunny stuff!) as he is a bit of a Cabernet drinker. The 2021 Auslese has gone straight into storage, so no notes for a few years.

Riesling Felseneck Spatlese Goldkapsel 2022, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich

Popped and poured straight from the fridge.

It is a little reticent at this low temperature, but it is obviously ripe, with peachy, apricot fruit as well as the more usual Riesling lime and lemon characteristics – both quite voluptuous here. I only get hints of the slight nutty aroma I usually identify with Nahe wines – just on an initial sniff it would be easy to mistake this for a ripe Saar wine.

So, a taste…

SMACK! I have driven my palate into a massive wall of acidity! It is purifyingly, penetratingly, petrifyingly painful – oh it is so good! This acidity is not so much ‘glisks of afternoon sunlight’ as ‘mid-day sun intensity focussed through a magnifying glass so it makes your skin melt and boil’ (do not ask for more information but, believe me, I know this pain). It is asterine in its precision, mind-wiping in its clarity. How utterly brilliant!

Behind this firebrand of an experience, there is just discernible sweetness and plenty of ripe fruit. There are a lot of slate-y characteristics too. Straight from the fridge like this you would say, “Jesus Christ! This is an Egon Muller or Peter Lauer Auction Kabinett… but… it is better? Really? YES!”

You see, despite the searing, terrifying, delicious acidity, it is extremely finely balanced. The Editor claims that really fine wines have an uncompromising element to their balance – a ‘terror balance’, as he likes to call it. This has that going on, oh yes! Oh yes it does!

As it warms up I get more of that Nahe nuttiness on the nose and more fruit and minerality show both there and on the palate. A touch reductive too? Yes. It is dazzlingly complex and stunningly long. With the intense acidity it seems superficially dry and sapid but, without too much imagination, you can feel sweetness there. Amazing essence of Spatlese.

This is the nec ultra plus Nahe Spatlese experience; properly fruity, pleasingly slate-y, complex to a delightful level and fearsomely acidic. Yeah.

I have had some great wines this summer but, by arse, none of them as arrestingly, refulgently, arousingly brilliant as this. Beg, borrow or steal to have a taste.

Felseneck Spatlese Goldkapsel 2022 from Schafer-Frohlich


Get some, make your teeth fizz, enjoy with great delight!

Anon,
Davy.

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Brilliant writing, as always. We’ve missed you.

Love the notes, thank you David. So glad I have a few of these somewhere out there in ‘to be shipped this winter’ land.

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Making me excited to take delivery in next few months and see for myself!

Thank you, Corey, I try to come back from time to time. Alas I’m not writing much at the moment until I get my back op. Once that’s sorted the words should flow more freely!

Anon,
Davy.

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You’ll love it! It’s brilliant stuff. Maybe a bit frightening but brilliant nonetheless!

Anon,
Davy.

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I hope it is still singing by the time it makes it to you, it’s quite wonderful at the moment!

Anon,
Davy.

I bet it’s even better after a week in the fridge in a half drunk bottle

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I wouldn’t know, Claus! Open bottles of Riesling last minutes rather than days at Elitistreview Court!

Anon,
Davy.

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Have some on the way. With all the great wines from Schafer-Frohlich, the Spätlese GK remains my favorite in the range year after year.

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Thanks for your notes David. I bought a 21 Spat GK recently (mainly because it won JS.com 100 pts :joy:), and your notes increases my expectation of it.

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Jerry,

21 should be great! It’s more of a nervy, edgy vintage than 22 (from the limited amount I’ve tried), so it should slash across your palate with livid, energetic acidity and leave your stomach begging for mercy! I wish I had some…

I have great confidence the 21 Auslese I have will provide smiles :wink:

Enjoy it!

I have found this to be true for most good rieslings. Solid advice, and for those who find it difficult to let a bottle rest before it evaporates, the secrete is to have enough bottles open.

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Normally there is on average 4 open bottles in my fridge. Riesling and Jura white

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Great to see you here again Davy!

Thank you for the fine note on a super wine. Also, thanks for the addition to my vocabulary that your notes deliver. Much appreciated and a real pleasure to see your name here again.

Best,

Todd

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Hi Todd,

Oooohhhh sorry, I hope I didn’t use words that obscure the meaning of the note! I don’t aim to be opaque! Otherwise thank you for your comments about my note, I’m pleased you like it!

Are you a long time fan of the Felseneck wines? I’d be interested to know what you made of the Auslese if you have tried it.

it’s amazing how threads like this result in charges on my credit card shortly after I finish reading them…

WB is clearly an evil plot cooked up by a bunch of obscure producers to help them move product. :supervillain:

Davy,

Nothing to apologize! I earnestly meant that I am envious of your command of the English language. Your diction is often the perfect word to convey your thoughts, providing imagery, clarity, and often humor. Often, those well chosen words help grow my vocabulary. I meant it as nothing but a compliment!

Yes, I love Felseneck. For me it is one of the great vineyards in all of Germany. I am sure that Tim Froehlich’s hand is no small factor in my opinion. IMO, it is a piece of dirt with an amazing ability to make wines of detail, depth and power all in harmony.

Your note inspired me to open an 07 Felseneck GG last night. Note hopefully coming soon. I have not had current release auslesen from S-F, but I adore the Spatlesen and Kabinetts. I am finding I enjoy mature auslese more than young and for whatever reason, with regards to fruity Riesling, I am drinking much more kabinett and feinherb level of late than higher pradikat wines. That said, I treat the handful of his Felseneck auction wines I have as Gollum does the ring of power.

Thanks again for the evocative note and for being back here!

Todd

Oh Todd! You’re a sweetie!:blush::joy::joy::joy:

Thank you for your kind words!

I’m not one of these miserable old farts who complains about people drinking wines too young, I understand it entirely. Indeed, I usually get through two six packs of whatever Kabinetts I buy each year, well within a year of release. However, the limits of pleasure are yet to be defined or reached, so sometimes it’s nice to have some with a bit of age. But drop around next year and we’ll drink a load of 2023’s! Hooray!!