TN: PYCM Puligny & Chassagne Chenevottes

WINE TALK
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Got together with a buddy and his son after not seeing for a year or so and unsurprisingly we got right away back to our white burg drinking ways. The Chenevottes stood out immediately on the list and after pondering for a while it just made the most sense to get another PYCM to drink alongside. The producer signature is very strong here but I find it hard to see it as a negative. These are some of my favorite Chardonnays out there and at the Helsinki restaurant prices they offer good bang for the buck.

  • 2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (21.4.2023)
    This one has qualities similar to the Chenevottes on the nose but with a more earthy and even slightly more savory feel. Excellent use of oak, very harmonious. On the palate admirable power and concentration without any excess weight or ripeness. There is grip here that is not unlike a slight tannic sensation, the mouthfeel is very firm. While not hugely complex this is magnificently complete and satisfying. A really fantastic village wine, you cannot just sip this without giving it some thought.
  • 2019 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (21.4.2023)
    A wonderfully serene reductive nose of bright lemon driven fruit, well judged stylish oak and a spearminty hint. On the palate mouth-coatingly rich and relatively powerful but well balanced with no extra ripeness. The acidity is absolutely on point and carries the wine well to a thoroughly savory, slightly spicy finish. Very good intensity and length. There is a tangy streak that I really dig.

Posted from CellarTracker

The food at Baskeri & Basso was really on point and I can’t recommend it and its little brother too much. Superb cooking, no foam on the plates, great service. And they had Paris-Brest for dessert, how often do you see that??

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Burrata

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Beef tartare

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Lemon zest and dill risotto

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Pike with lobster sauce

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Paris-Brest

5 Likes
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Nice work. Excellent notes. Food looks great.

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Thanks for the notes and the pics-nive!
I have a smallish vertical of the Chevenottes going back to '15. It sounds like you didn’t find the '19 too young or tight. Was it decanted? I enjoy young PYCM, but they so often seem to have so much in the tank that I feel like I should let them age.

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The wine service was really good, both wines were served decanted without asking (although I guess someone might prefer to be asked first, I had no problem with this). We ordered the Chenevottes first and enjoyed it over two hours and the last sips were easily the best. It wasn’t massively closed early on but definitely the oak was somewhat dominant at first, however it started to recede quite quickly and give room for a more vibrantly fruity expression. The wine was merely restrained rather than tight initially. I am yet to have a young PYCM that I didn’t find enjoyable right away, although clearly these wines can age well.

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Thanks, Ikkal,
Confirms my own intuitions and experiences. Sounds and looks like a great restaurant–I think I would prefer being asked before decanting, however.